CAUTION: Two major issues with this video, both of these two issues were already pointed out before in the comments but if anyone only watches this video it can lead you to two very big mistakes. 1) Coat the new upper control arm bolts with ant-seize before installing. Coat the complete bolt. This will make a significant difference next time the bolt needs to be removed. 2) DO NOT torque your upper-inner bolts with the suspension hanging free, this WILL cause a premature failure of the bushings. Either replace the control arms one at a time (in the video when he says "don't torque", that is when you should torque) using the other one for locating the position, or if you leave them loose, you need to get the suspension back to ride height before you torque. These are pretty significant issues, enough that I'd recommend re making this video; FCP is doing the community a dis-service with the video as it is.

Two things; First, use anti seize when reassembling. Next time you take it apart(there will be a next time) it'll be a breeze. Second, when you tighten the control arm bushings, the suspension must be at curb weight position. They are bonded rubber and prone to failure else wise. Great video! Thanks for posting!

If you soak that pinch bolt with penetrating oil, it will come out easier. Also, if you have air tools, use an open end wrench to pull on the bolt head while you use a impact swivel on your impact gun. It'll zip right out.

When replacing the upper control arms the bolts should be put in from the opposite side, doing this means next time you won't need to remove the upper control arm mounting plate.. There are also two concealed 13 mm nuts for the struts that enable removal of the strut itself leaving the upper control arm mounting plate in position. There are two painted bungs covering them around the same area as the three mounting plate bolts.

After watching you guys doing this it makes me fell like I could do anything on the car because you make it look so easy and very detailed video and Mike is just the best.Keep up the good work.

I just did this today on my A6, thanks to this video. I skipped taking the shock/strut tower out, by cutting the bolt off of the forward upper control arm. I replaced the new bolt backwards (it doesn't matter, same length), and reassembled everything. I still have a "squeak"; I've replaced 3 of the 4 control arms, waiting on the lower front left one (forward) to arrive from Amazon. I might have forgotten to "curb weight" the lower rear one, but I will fix it when the other one arrives. All of my stuff was done with hand tools; I just did my CV boot a month ago (both outers), and then the squeak appeared (drivers side only). Glad this was so easy!

I just changed the upper and lower control arms. It was very easy. This video was perfect for getting it done.

I'll be doing this on my Audi A8 now.. Thanks for the education

@mamaboy9580 We were able to slide the shock assembly out without lowering the lower control arm, but it is a tight squeeze.

Great video. Lots of detail and explanation of the how and why. Just wish I had air gun and car lift!!

"Nicht iIn Unbelasteter Position Festziehen"...Do Not Tighten In Unloaded Position...these are labels on the set of control arms that I used to replace the tired arms in my '02 Passat...after over 380,000 km, it was time...!!! ...I used an air chisel, BFH, punches/drifts, & an oxy/acetylene torch to get the right side upper arms free from the spindle...about 90 minutes of serious coercing...I was using a hoist at work (Tooyota Dealership) after hours, and had access to a shop full of professional tools...the left side only took about fifteen minutes to remove the upper pinch bolt from the spindle; but on a Passat, one of the strut cap bolts is obscured by the cables going to the ECU, (so that has to be carefully removed and set aside)...in the event that you would like to see how much fun I had replacing front struts, all 8 control arms & the two sway bar end links; I posted my efforts on the Vortex in my thread...forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6975223-Like-It-Or-Not-I-Own-A-PASSAT-!!!&p=88250505#post88250505, posts 79-91...anti-seize compound was created for a reason...use it...!!!

Great job, now I can work on my V6 VW Passat, thanks.

Hey guys it would be nice to see some videos on audi d4 a8 models... PLEASE!!!

Yes, you should always get an alignment after replacing your control arms.

Great job. Very helpful thanks , keep it up.

txnks for saying bolt/nuts sizes. rly helps then writing paper

Have you ever done pcv on a 3.0 before do you think you could make a video on that?

Thank you a million times for doing this vide, do you know what, if any are the torque specs for the bolts and all???? GOD BLESS all....

Thank you man

Agreed. The control arms should have been tightened at ride height.

i just tried to take on this job but for some reason i cant remove the strut mount its sitting firm on the front lower control arm how do i go about getting it off to complete this task??

do you have to lower the lower control arm?

Loving it, sub'ed.

Don't the control arms have specified height they need to be tighten at? Forward and rearward both have their own set positions to not affect ride height. Also did anything get torque to proper spec or that's not important.. .

very good vid!

2005 audi A6 I bought the car and navigation say not activate and my radio don't work .any idea what it can be

question the pinch bolt on the upper joint once that nut is loose if you spread the fitting with a chisel before you drive the bolt out would that be easier since the torque of tightening it probably distorts it and make the bolt very hard to knock out

you rock!!!

Great job mike.

Should have put some anti seize on that bolt. It will help down the road if this job needs to be done again

Why does an outback have no upper control arms??

Should suspension not be loaded before tightening up the control arm inner bolts? otherwise your bushing would be constantly under torsion when sitting on wheels, thus premature wear.

After few weeks when i did this, one of the arm nearly half way out.... why? i'v putted new bolt.. thanks P.S. mine is a4 but it's same suspension as here

I have a 2005 audi a6 it make a clang clang noise when I hit a bump on the driver side what can it be thanks

Thanks for another great Video... my son is going to save about $600. :-) I am assuming that this is very similar or not the same for an Audi A4 B7.... Thanks

Impact driver highly recommended.

i replaced both sides, upper and lower and after I did this, my car sits about an inch and a half higher, why is that?

I admittedly did not watch with volume (class), but don't you have to have the vehicle at ride height (wheels on the ground or an alternative measure) when torquing the lower or upper control arms? In the video, it appears you torque both sets at "hanging" or extended height, causing constant stress on the bushings. Did I miss something? And what's your opinion of not torquing uppers and lowers on both sides, putting the tires on, then lowering the car to the ground and let it settle at ride height and then torque it? I've realized I can reach all necessary bolts even with tires on. Thanks! (I have a 2006 A4 2WD Base, which looks identical to this).

Have you ever done pcv on a 3.0 before do you think you could make a video on that?