Thanks for the feed back

Or you could get one of those old torque wrenches that have a pointer that reads on a scale either direction 😎

Thanks bud did my best

No worries mate what bike you got? And what was the problem just out of curiosity, seems hd have fucked the primary's design

The Baker Attitude Chain Adjuster by itself is $198. The Baker Attitude Chain Adjuster & Compensator Kit is $750. Just clarifying so people do not get confused.

best stuff in the world mate, glad you liked it cheers

Good luck

hey Jose did you change your compensator on your road king. and is it working right I also have a 2008 road king classic im going to fix my starter it is making some crazy noise it feels feels like it wont turn after it is worm up when I try to turn it on again let me know how you did on your bike.

Comfort 😄

I got this with the bike but should be able to find one on eBay or auto parts stores/ bike spares shops do sell them aswell....definitely helps, 60,000kms later still running well

It was a long time ago I think I was at nearly 40k kms I think

Did you think the removal torque was more than 150 ft.lbs ?

Ohio Harley Rider All good here I checked the chain tension once at about 10,000km after install I’ve done just over 25,000km since install and never had any problems mate so I’m pretty happy with how it’s gone

I use a variety of Baker parts and even my jaded professional machinist buds like them because they are so well made. I NEVER use automatic chain adjusters or recommend them to customers.. I prefer my measurement rather than trusting sometimes failure prone devices. If ya can't be arsed to adjust your primary chain now and then (and inspect the area at the same time) that's just laziness.

Ob Fuscated Ageed

@@obfuscated3090 It would have been nice if Harley left a chain adjustment cover in the primary at least until the automatic adjuster was a proven success but as usual they figure any new modifications they make are going to be foolproof and it just makes it harder to fix shit when it inevitably fucks up. Been riding HD for over 35 years and they are the only company I know that can make me love them and hate them at the same time.

It's 44 dry.

Probly I'm not real sure looked good to me, make no mistake im not a mechanic mate, cheers for the info tho bud

man cave cycleworks Well that’s the problem if your not exactly know what’s going on , then look in the workshop manual this avoids more problems!!

That’s how baker tells you to do it, but the proper way, imo is a straight edge across the comp sprocket and the clutch sprocket. No airspace between the strait edge and the sprockets and your good to go

You should replace the clutch plates if the clutch has ever slipped - just putting a stronger spring in will not work for long as the friction plates with be glazed by the slipping and will slip again. Your best bet would be an Energy 1 extra plate kit - it has extra surface area and a stronger spring. My bike has over 120 bhp and torque and it does not slip - ever !

I put the heavier clutch spring in still going strong too

Talking about a bit of slack in the chain?

Did you make sure, to loosen the compensator bolt one turn after going 100 ft lbs, and then taking It back to the 140 or 160 or whatever It is supposted to be ?

Probably but looked good to me so rolled with it, 15k since install never missed a beat....if you have anything constructive on how to do this please post it I’m not a mechanic I’m just having a crack so feel free to make a video on that process and tag it for me in this thread to help the next guys 👍👍👍

Yes and be sure to run a tap thru the main or else that nut WILL spin and your baker investment will be baked

Wayne THOMPSON good idea....around 60,000kms later still going well

Baker recommends adjusting on the loose side.

@@bear304inc5 Hi, how do you know the tight and loose spot to install the baker tensioner?

The service manual on my '95 with manual adjustment says check every 5000 miles.

Can’t say I noticed anything like that mate

This sounds like your clutch is not releasing easily, maybe not the right oil level ??

Thanks for the feed back, just for the record I'm not a mechanic just like having a crack....picking up things as I go even just from these feed back comments so happy days....good luck man

Nah mate just brought it from eBay found the cheapest deal

yeah mate

I mean springs

so 07-11 has the old style comp 2012 on wards has the screaming eagle, the old style comp has the spring pack attached to the rotor behind the comp, and the screaming eagle comp (atleast I know baker does) has it in the compensator that's where the design problem was I believe. so if you have the old style that rotor will have to be replaced cost about $100 from Harley also means the install is a bit longer coz you have to remove the whole primary backing plate to get the old one out (some ppl grind it away but id remove it) watch the start and end of the video I explain this, need any more help let me know ill do my best to answer cheers mate

Many thanks, all fixed and running well, no more clunking or chain whip lash

Sweet you install a baker? How bout the tensioner?

will an '06 outer primary cover bolt to an '07?

You know the spring pack is a quick fix on your 05' I'll bet !!

@@Will8022000 I would say no It wont because the Transmission on the 07 is six speed..

Nah didn’t have to

I said at the start of the video when I was showing the parts the bike had hot starting issues...kicking back, making a weird grinding noise that’s the main sign your compensator is fucked....probly same issues your having and that’s why your here researching.....that comp had its day after about 60,000kms....lasted longer than the stock so happy about that...it’s a wear part designed to wear so crank won’t scissor etc so they will never last forever....I’ve gone to a man o war compensator from dark horse crank works there design is new and I think will be the better fix, it’s a solid sprocket but inner is basically Cush drive using hard rubbers so instead of using a spring pack and ramps that will eventually fail all you’ll have to do is replace those internal rubbers for like $100aud instead of replacing a whole compensator for 800aud....been in my bike around 4000kms now without any issue but I will say bike doesn’t like the lower rpms as much now so you can’t lug your bike as much (not that you should be) but I find myself sometimes in a lower gear at some speeds than I would before

At 60k was it the spring pack, spinning too. ??

@@mancavecycleworks7683 Yeah same exact symptoms grinding and metal-on-metal slamming sound when hot. I'm on my third compensator but doesn't help much. I don't know the history of my engine but I think they put a Big bore kit in it, it has compression releases on the heads probably for a reason.

Did u put in the man o war yet? Debating between baker or man o war.

@@ethanintheelements2528 yeah mate it’s in! Done about 2,000kms on it so far and no issues...sorted the worn baker so that’s good, motor feels a bit different tho definitely can’t lug it as much (not that I think I do a lot) plus my manual tensioners might have something to do with that aswell so hard to say what it would feel like with a auto tensioner Baker was good got way more kms out of it than stock but it’s still a part that’s meant to wear out better than than say your crank scissoring....went with man of war for the design as it’s Cush drive basically....and when the hard runners wear out will cost me $100 aud (roughly Mabye a touch less) shipped to my door to freshen up instead of another $800 aud (roughly) for a complete new compensator

Sweet man. Prolly gonna go with the man o war myself, with a baker attitude adjuster. Unfortunately the sprocket is backordered for 3 weeks and my primary is already apart 😅

@@ethanintheelements2528 check if fuel moto or cycle solutions have them...they both stock them

Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure your fatboy doesn't have s compensator 07 was the first year of the touring but not sure if it was the first year overall, so if I'm right you have a solid sprocket and if that's the case it might just be a few ground down teeth avdvshoukd be a way quicker fix, I know a few guys who pulled out there.comp and went back to the solid sprocket from evolution industries even made the tooth count less to get more off the line torque so that's something to think about also I would highly recommend the manual chain tension check my video on the overview on the automatic one, let me know how you go mate

Also to do the test this is for compensators not sure about solid sprocket I imagine it would have a similar effect, , start the bike, while sitting on it and In gear hold the front brake down and slowly let the clutch out your bike should just quietly start to drop out, mine when it was bad would sound kinda like marbles in there crunching that's how I knew to open the primary, could also be your starter clutch teeth that's worn so check that hard to tell until you open her up mate good luck keep me posted

COMPENSATOR!

If your mechanic only tightened the compensator bolt once and stopped The bolt could actually be loose now.

@@randymccalla9995 He did everything correctly. We sent the unit back to Baker, they made some adjustments , we took out the Attitude Adjuster, and it’s much quieter now.

Cheers for the info

All up about $800 Aus it's a long time ago tho could be wrong

No mate good as gold, it's been 10k since install and I checked the tension and it still good

all I had to get it done so i went with it, I'm not a mechanic man just like having a crack but appreciate the tips thanks bud

man cave cycleworks I am a mechanic and we use torque wrenches for breaker bars all the time.....you did good....

It says in the torque wrench instructions NOT to use it as a ratchet as well - but I do ! Also, on my '10 model Streetbob I find the long extension from the socket set fits in just right as a locking bar for the primary......

BULL SHIT.. REVERSE THREADS NEED TORQUE ALSO.... INVALID POINT

No ? (Sarcasm) It's guys like this that you shouldn't take advice from, nuthin personal.

So the old Style rotor has the spring pack attached to the rotor but the baker has it inside the compensator, if you flick through to the part at the start where I'm talking about it you'll notice the new rotor on the right, now to get that rotor off or on you have two options first is ppl grind down that lip that it catches on or the second is to remove the inner case, that's the option I went with I didn't like the idea of grinding a good case away just to save some time, either way when you do the upgrade and your bikes year is older than 12 you'll need to change out the rotor regardless of choosing baker/ screaming eagle or a solid sproket like they had 06 and before. You get the rotor from hd part number - 30041-08A (2012 rotor for compensator upgrade) should be around $100 from memory , Hope this helps mate

Before 07 they had a solid sproket, 07-11 the first style, and 12 on is the screaming eagle which won't need the rotor it's already there so the install is a lot easier

I have a 2010 FLHTCUSE5 and the compensator has been changed twice. Both units were SE and makes no difference in the noise.. what a racket... very poor design over all. Not sure if I will need the rotor

If they have tried the se then you already have the updated rotor, look into baker or even a solid sproket like pre 07, evolution industries also do a 30 tooth instead of 34tooth it changes the gear ratios a little and give you more off the line torque, either way I would still get a Manual tensioner

I prefer the auto tensioner esp a heavy duty one. My reason? Not having to remove the case to adjust the chain tension. Standard one's do wear, and even break, aftermarket one's seem better.

Sometimes you just gotta make do if your not in a workshop....totally get it tho....60,000kms later still running well

Actually. According to Harley they are screws lol

Anything in the info paper about them so long ago bud I really can't remember sorry I can't be of more help

I installed The Baker compensator did everything right but now I hear a different sounding clunk. What you think that's all about?

Clunk on start up? Or when changing gears? So hard to say, I didn't check for chain alignment looked good to me could be that .03 out I'd max it should be

When you want Baker tech info, use their chat line. Get comfortable with using tech support. You pay for it when you buy parts and makes like Baker want happy customers.

Because it is cheaper that all the machining to get gear drive to work. All comes down to the $$$$

Haha

Used what I had, not a workshop so sometimes you just gotta make do....but thanks for your concern about my finances 😁😂👍

man cave cycleworks well I can appreciate that. Just a tip, though ... you can pick up old school pro level tools pretty cheap from pawn shops sometimes. Proto, SK, Snap-on, etc. Stuff that will last forever. You could get a 1/2 breaker bar for $5.

What do you use to torque the left hand thread on all those older Chrysler wheels.. ?

I had a torque wrench in 1972 that had a pointer and It moved both directions , all you guys saying dont loosen with a torque wrench, probably dont know how to do any thing but play Donkey Kong !

Sometimes you just gotta make do if your not in a workshop....totally get it tho....60,000kms later still running well, thanks for the feed back 🤘🏼