So glad you're finding it useful, plenty more on the way! Thanks for commenting!

Really glad you found it helpeful. Plenty more to come, happy printing!

Awesome, thank you!

I'm glad you like the videos and thanks very much for your feedback. I understand that it may not be that easy to follow on a phone. Whilst I do zoom in on occasion, I tend to keep it full screen as when viewed on a computer that would be the same size as when the software iis being used on it, and I like to keep it easy to see where on the screen I'm moving to. However, you're not the first to make this request and in my very latest videos I am taking this on board a little more at the times where it counts. Thanks again for your comment, and happy printing!

A good one to add to the list! Thanks for the suggestion! Glad this video was useful and thanks for the sub!

You're most welcome! Thank you!

Hey Charles, thanks for the comment. Haha yes, technology moves so fast these days, 6 years allows for 5-7 generations of evolution. Sorry if I'm not understanding your question exactly, but I believe you're asking why it is that the surfaces of your model that are printing above support material aren't coming out smooth? If that's what you're asking, it's because support material by default leaves a gap between the interface layer and the bottom of the object so that the support material doesn't fuse with the model. It prevents it drooping down so much that it fails the print, but it won't prevent slight drooping or imperfections. If you want to reduce this gap, if you've got an AMS with your X1C you can use a different material for the interface layer (a material that won't bond easily with whatever you're printing with) and then you can reduce the z distance between the interace and the model.

Hey there. This is actually something I'm planning on covering a video later this year. There's a number of things that can lead to this and unfortunately it's not always the same thing. You're absolutely right that the layer time is most often the issue though, and adjusting the speeds is a way you can try to tackle it. What you want to do is in Bambu Studio, right click on your model, and select 'Height Range Modifier'. Select the range in the object list on the left and set the height range you want to adjust the speeds for. Then (making sure you still have the range selected in the object list), got to the speed tab, and adjust the speeds that you want to be affected for those layers. Let me know if this helps you at all.

@@3DRevolution thanks for the response! Giving this a shot right now. And the slicer after doing what you recommended, I did notice those layer lines decrease! I couldn't get rid of all of them but 90% of them. I'm doing a test print now to see what happens but it's a 5-hour print. A follow-up question would be, can you add more than one of the height range modifiers at a time for the same model? For example, I was able to do it layer 54 through layer 58. But I would like to continue on past that and do layer 64. When I tried clicking on the modifier again it just kept taking me to the currently used one

@@BelowAverageGamingGreat, let me know how it goes. I've been playing with this myself and looking forward to publishing a video on it in the coming weeks. To add a second layer height modifier, in the object list on the left, click on the word 'Layers' under the object you're affecting. At the bottom it will show the height range that one is affecting. Click the + to the right of that and it'll then add an aditional range. You can then select that height range from the object list, adjust it to the heights you want, and apply differnt settings to that height range.

Sorry for the late reply but glad you sorted the problem. That is unusual, I'm not sure the reason for that either but I'll look into it. Thanks for updating your post here, and happy printing!

Slopes that are facing down are always going to be lower quality than those facing upwards, as they have a section of the extrusion that is printed in open air and so will sag a bit before cooling. There are a number of things you can do to alleviate this but using a smaller layer height is one of the best ways. If it's an extreme overhang (albeit small), support material may be necessary. Depending on the material you're printing with, you may also be able to increase part cooling, to solidify overhangs quicker. Alternatively, look at different ways you can orientate the part on the print bed to mean it's no longer a downward facing slope.

Hi there, I'm afraid that's just about inside the expected dimensional accuracy of many FDM printers, but 0.0003in (0.01mm) is a lot more preferable. Is the rate of inacuracy constant across prints and is it constant with your pritners axis even if you rotate the orientation of the print?

I'm sorry to hear you have trouble with this Bill. The screen capture of Bambu Studio is full screen so if you view this video full screen the menus would be the same size as they would be when you're using Bambu Studio on the same display. I don't tend to zoom into the menus as I move around, especially on these bigger tutorial videos as if I did it would feel quite chaotic and viewers can lose reference context for where I'm interacting with. However, especially in the menu section I tend to be actively talking about each option as I select it (which will also be reflected in my manually produced closed captions) so this shouldn't for the most part be a problem. Is there a particular thing you were finding difficulty with?

@@3DRevolution Thanks for the response. Maybe I just have a poor monitor. You might get some volunteers, sort of a focus group, and see what they say about the legibility of the menu selections. Either way, I know you're putting out good stuff. I can tell that from the one video I watched. Subbed and liked.

@@billbyrd9845 Sorry for the late reply, and thank you. I absolutely encourage feedback and try to improve my videos for my audience wherever I can. Thanks for the like and sub, happy printing!