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I agree, oil changes are extremely satisfying, especially with full synthetic oil!

Hey Sean. I would recommend pre-filling the new oil filter, especially on the Z9 since it's so big. Stops the engine running with 0 oil pressure for 5 seconds or so. There is 0 oil pressure throughout the entire engine for however long it takes for the oil pump to fill the empty filter with oil. As long as you 3/4 fill it, there will be no mess. I've done it tens of times. Any time running without oil pressure is going to cause some sort of damage, albeit very small. Funnily enough on a mates AU, we purposely didn't prefill the filter, and could hear a very loud lifter tick for about 5 seconds while the filter was filled with oil.

Modern oils have lasting additives that cling to the parts of some time after the oil drains away, meaning that there is a protective layer between all rubbing surfaces inside the engine so you can do away with fulling the oil filter as part of the oil change. If you still are worried, ECU's generally will not allow any spark or fuel until there is sufficient oil pressure. Some mechanics do the filling of the filter as that is how they are taught to do it and they have a hoist that allow them to do it without making a mess and it's does not hurt to do it either, but with modern cars and oils you don't need to make the mess laying on you back in the driveway.

Would probably be wise checking turbo and manifold bolts at the same time as the oil feed lines as it's common for them to loosen.

That's one clean motor my friend.

Love your vids And just for a reference for anyone looking to change oil on your Barras Z9 oil filter is only for ba bf and on is z516 🤙🏻🤙🏻

She is looking healthy and happy. Great work. This Barra will run for a while with the quality oil and pampering.

The sump plug on Falcons are reusable. They have the Washer built in. My AU still has the original. Just make sure it's tight (not too tight) and you'll be fine 👍

Just a word of advice Shaun aka Motoring Box If you are charging the oil pipes to aftermarket race spec, make sure they are not any smaller internal diameter than old ones. If the new feed pipe is smaller internally then obviously you won't get the same flow of oil into the turbo bearings with obvious consequences and also most people don't realise if the return pipe back to the oil sump from turbo is smaller internally then highly likely to blow oil seals in the turbo at each end of the shaft due to increased pressure because smaller pipes restrict flow back to the sump and the oil has to go somewhere so it blows out from the turbine housing or compressor housing. If you had already planned for this then your on the ball and disregard this comment. Appreciating watching this Barra Falcon Build !

Ha remember on the early Falcon sixes, one could simply lean over side of the mudguard or Fender (for you Americans) and grab hold of the filter and unscrew it, no need to lay on the ground LOL

In SA, most of, if not all the performance Barra workshops recommend ULX110 in 10W40. It is really good stuff. Well worth a try IMO.

Top Tip: purchase another drain plug😀 You can then carry on with the oil change and fish out the spare bolt later👍🏽 and very importantly an oil catch can to save those valves from coaking up and preventing your throttle body from the greasy film that it accumulates and go one step (preferably prior to tune) colder spark plug

doing an in between scheduled oil change on my Commodore is one of life's pleasures

Hi Sean, thank you for showing all of us how to change the oil. I myself recently have purchased a ba mk2 turbo, 6 speed manual, and I love watching your channel for tips and how to's. I look forward to the next video of you changing the oil line.Thanks again mate, and long live the Barra.

Nice touch matching the colour of the funnel with the cam cover. And the coolant. My OCD is happy.

Just my two cents. No other turbo engine that i have played with has had a filter fitted to the turbo feed. Only barras seem to and they are the only ones ive ever seen have problems. Even when switching to the aftermarket lines i ditch the filter as ive still seen them cause flow issues. They dont need it.

Awesome thanks

I run Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 15W-50 Engine,when running e85 you need to change even sooner,or give it a hard time lol.Only thing between your crank and bearing is your oil.

Hey mate, good job on the servicing. Just to let you know, Z9 is the big filter, I can't remember the shorter filter name, but its smaller, and allows the engine to build oil pressure quicker, and helps preserve the timing chains, tensioners and guides on cold start, also increases oil pressure when up to temp, which protects the engine, very important on a BA series engine, to protect the bearings. 10W-40 is recommended for stock, I personally would recommend a Zinc based Penrite tenths racing 10W-40 oil, the added Zinc will help the longevity of your motor when you turn up the power. In regards to these engines, I know you have a catch can, as these can be prone to a bit of blow by, however these have been known to loose compression due to carbon sticking to the valves, and stopping them closing 100%, a Subaru brand Upper Engine clean, from your local Subaru dealership will clean your top end. I do it every service or every 2 services (I also do my services every 5k kms, but im anal about it.) Advice aside, you're doing a fantastic job on a step by step guide on maintaining a B series Falcon, and you should be proud of yourself! Keep up the fantastic work mate!

what i read in owner manual for offical ford owner manual is you are supposed to hold the dip stick into the dip stick hole for at least 5 seconds before you pull it out. n when you pull it out you should not go too fast cuz that can mess up the dip stick hole

My mate, has for the last 10 years done 3000-4000 km a week transporting rescue dogs in multiple BA,BF,AU falcon wagons. He has never replaced the sump plug on any of them, he also has a number of spare falcon wagons at his mums farm. One he retired three years ago - give or take with 800000kms. One has 400000+k at the moment The other is 320+ 350 k AU has low kms at the moment. I have only just replaced mine at nearly 400000k and it wasn't leaking, I just wanted to, simple as that. unless it's rounded or leaking - l haven't seen the evidence to replace due to km.

1:48 your forgot the KFC snackbox Sean to go with your beverage of choice. With current state govt rules regarding lockdowns, parts are hard to get or are taking longer than usual. Most car parts come from Melbourne & we currently have 6 cars that normally would have left but we're awaiting the parts to come through. Have a bit pf patience Sean & you'll get the rest of your parts. Bad enough that insurance companies aren't displaying any patience at the moment.

Another great video and yes oil changes are great

Another great vid Sean, keep up the good work brother! 👌🏼

6.6Lt of 15W-40 Full Syn multi is your spec. Prefilling filter 3/4 or more works easy.

Another epic video mate 👍👍

Hey Sean a good idea is to change the sump plug washer instead of the sump plug itself. It's what I do with both my vehicles at oil change intervals. Also had the pleasure of installing an oil line filter to the turbo bit of pain trying to remove the old line from my bf xr6 turbo had to make a dash to supercheap to get an extended 24mm socket and a spanner which I had to grind down to fit onto the nut. Don't forget to add some thread sealantwhen re installing that piece into the engine

Sean. If you need tools in a one off I have most of what you mention. Happy to help where ever I can.

Easiest way to do the oil feed is actually from under the car. Would recommend doing the waterlines as well those factory lines do crack as I learnt at an inconvenient time.

ended up swapping to 10w60 oil as per the tuners recommendation, i got a bf mk2.5 turbo making 400kw at the wheels

Nice

Yes, whether placebo effect or not there is definitely something therapeutic getting an oil change done. :-)

Love the videos mate

I've never ever changed a sump/fill/drain plug washer on any oil pan , differential , or gearbox and I have had absolutely ZERO leaks on so many of the cars I own and have owned , honestly dont need it unless the washer is really really crunched up

Nice watch, mate.

I always like when oil goes black not long after an oil change - good indication it's doing its job. I'd stick with the 5,000k/six month change interval for any car where possible; manufacturer intervals are ambitious at best, especially for an 'older' car.

Do 20,000 km and the oil can be used as thick tar to fill in potholes.

Thanks!

Wynn's engine flush with Wynn's friction proofing will improve fuel economy.

Very nice i like change oil and fliter 5 ,000 in my n/a and like useing k&n oil filters and coastal oil

All hail the Z9. 😂👌🏼

I had a quick look in the comments and couldnt find it, but correct me if im in error, but Oem oil for the barra Na and turbo should be non synthetic mineral oil from the factory. Each to there own but my take is the longer you take to service past the 5000 km mark the oil, depending on quality, thickens and progressively loses its buffering properties and accelerated wear on engine components ensues. Your suggested 5k service interval is a great rule of thumb for any car which makes you wonder why some manufacturers recommend 15 k + services??? Oil and filter cheap - engine rebuild or failure, not so.....

Funniest thing is I got a PEPSI MAX ad before being able to watch this video. Are you sure you’re not sponsored?

Just about to do one on my BA👍🙂

Talk about a Double Entendrè overload.....or maybe it's just me...wotevaaaa 👍

My AU went to Falcon heaven - skid racing at Archerfield. I have a sales brochure for one. Want it for your collection? It features the AU Office!

My dad use to do this all the time with his au wagon but my mum said take it off the road soo I forgot on how to serve an au Like I know this is a ba Barra but same difference

Hmm... So your sump is covered in oil as well. Is that just normal to find on these? I got an NA and have some oil around the sump like he does.

I use 5w 30 on my bf na

Looks like it's a timing cover leak they leak around the corners where sump meets timing cover

Where is the jack point for the front and rear?

Im guessing who ever did oil change in ur car last did oil filter up on bonder too tight if that tool struggle i use same tool no issues and easy as

10w40 semi synthetic penrite get it on sale $22 for 6 litres

Thanks Motoring Box. Can you please recommend the best aftermarket oil line with filter for the turbo. Many thanks for this and all of your great vids.

Ive not heard of replacing the sump plug, ive always been told the sump plug washer, but i really need to do my oil change, put it off all week

if i can suggest if you have an autobarn near you.. ditch the ryco, an get yourself wesfil (ryco is made by wesfil) wesfil costs me 11 bucks for a Z9

Also how do you jack up your BA? I've always found it INCREDIBLY difficult to jack up because of its low clearance, do you have ramps or use the wood blocks?

You going to go aftermarket wheels on this car?

Hope you wearing your safety pluggers

Idk about changing the sump plug but plugs with removable washers I def change them every time

The barra needs 7L for an oil change

Is it just me, or are Ford oil and fuel filters really big, I as so surprised by the size of my AU Fairlane filter

Any plans for a short shifter on the old girl?

Why was my comment removed?

Put oil in the filter before you install it… DONT follow this guys advice…