Hi I think it´s great, but I didn´t get it at full Please excuse me, but english is not my primary language I´ve watched this video again and again, I hope you can help: -The procedure is with or without string tension? If I understand correctly, the procedure is this: 1-Place moist rag (on something plastic) inside the guitar 2-Put that green snake inside the guitar 3-Put a towel on the bottom of the guitar near the bulge area 4-Put a rag over the guitar top 5-Rest the heating mat over the rag that protects the top 6-Setup a spot right on the bulge (most likely on the bridge) with a towel to place the weight At this point It´s not clear for me -Should I put the weight at the very same time the heating mat begins to work or after some time? 7-Should I leave the heating mat + weight working overnight, then check in the morning and if necessary add some weight and leave for 12 hours more? Thanks in advance

You don't need heat.

lol he is a lonely engineer impressed by his wisdom

You're an internet troll with zero videos on your channel. At least i'm trying to help.

@@Mikkeyboyy He’s not very lonely Source: He’s my dad 💀

How long did you keep the heating pad on the guitar?

@@paulalcamo2255 - That post is not originally mine. I copied and pasted from the author's other lesson.

I'll re create the setup and make a quick video. But in the mean time...I had a wet rag on a plastic bag inside so it wouldn't soak the wood but would increase the humidity. I then covered the hole to trap the moisture in. Then placed the heating pad and a folded towel to direct or hold the heat onto the guitar where the bulge is. Then added weight overnight. I'm guessing the slower you do it the better it will work so I did about 10lbs overnight, then went to 15lbs overnight then a total of 20lbs overnight. It's been months and the guitar is still flat. I wish this system would work for my belly bulge! I didn't do it this way on purpose..I kept adding weight because the lighter weights didn't work enough. So you might be able to go right to 20lbs overnight and it will work and it might last too..I'm not sure though. I'd go slow..it bulged slowly, so try to remove it slowly..that makes sense to my brain but who knows! Good luck!

Wow, thank you! So glad that i might be able to help you! One critical part that I'm not sure I included is a thorough inspection of the structure and glue joints inside the guitar. You'll be looking for any gaps between the braces and the top sides and back, any cracks, any factory defects, previous repair attempts, anything. Because you need to know where you're starting. I got a small dish towel size towel, got it fairly wet and did my best at cleaning the inside of dust and spider web leftovers. If you see gaps then you'll want to get some appropriate glue and fill the gaps AFTER you've gotten the belly bulge out. Also, after you get the bulge out, you really want to do your best at keeping it hydrated with one of those snake things that you soak in water then stick inside. I bought a little hygrometer from Amazon...they're so cheap that you can buy a 12 pack of them for $20. No idea why someone would need a dozen but that's what they offer. I bought this (link below) two pack for $5 because I have two acoustic guitars. I've found that you can get all the bulge out but it you shoot for like 80% then you'll be fine. And keeping 80% of the bulge out is more realistic. Those strings are pulling on that bridge constantly, with a decent amount of force, so you're temporarily fighting a constant force. If you have any specific questions then feel free to respond. Thank you:) www.amazon.com/dp/B08H7VPTLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_bia.Fb9R3KW28

$10 just for eh cauls, then $150 for 3 clamps, not sure they even work for anything over a half mm... heating pad, weight, several ways to do this but do not exceed 120 deg.. put the heat inside as in a light bulb, then inside a case, stack cards on top the body bulge and close guitar case lid on the works let sit for a few hours so wood can move.. start slow and low heat, so low heat and not many cards or shims at a time, increase till desired results... or the way he did it, heating pad, weights on top, shouldn't matter if the heat is on top or inside what's important is the wood is heated through, braces and top, heat allows you to move and bend wood, this is how the sides are made, heat molded.. once cooled the wood retains that shape, so consider that, watch how an acoustic is made primarily the sides.. the heat changes the molecular structure and loosens the fibers so it can move. that's all you are doing to the braces that have moved over time and tension, consider applying slight - movement so with string tension top comes back perfectly and your job lasts longer, not like wood has memory, it stays where its cooled, so if heated and shaped, then cooled in said shape that's where it wants to stay however, time gave it bulge so if you add some slight negative and it comes back flat with string tension you're that much further ahead of the game.. I have like 8 vintage yamahas need this, one is the brazilian FG580.. very nice guitar, lost a half inch section of binding on the headstock, sad cuz its so aged and tinted at this point, hate to put new on it or repair, cannot find the piece.. boo good luck

Hello, thank you for watching my video:) I kept accurate notes on amount of belly bulge over time and in response to different things i tried. The answer to your question is yes, but the weight is critical too. The humidity helps get the structure ready to move, the heat helps the humidity to really soak into the wood, and the weight does the actual work, it moves the bulge back down. I suggest you follow these steps: 1. Place moist rag inside guitar on something plastic so the water doesn't soak the wood.. you just want the atmosphere to be humid, don't want to soak the wood. 2. Place a towel on the bottom of the guitar near or on the bulge area, then place a heating mat like the kind you use to warm a specific area of your body, or a seedling heating mat. Seedling heating mats are $13 on Amazon and that's what i used..i know they don't get too hot so you won't have to use a laser thermometer to verify temp. 3. Setup a spot right on the bulge with a towel to place the weight. The bridge is most likely the place where you want to put it. I started light and ended up with 20lbs i think. It's in the video. 4. Remove after 24 hours and measure three bulge. If it hasn't reduced, add more weight and go another 24 hours. You don't want to move it quickly, it bulged ever so slowly so move it back slowly. Mine is still flat and it's been months. Having the atmosphere inside the guitar high humidity for a couple days before you add weight is good, i don't think you want to add weight when it's dry. Good luck!!!

@@mboyer68 That was very kind and helpful to write all these instructions. I have guessed from your video that this was the actual procedure so I already have some good results but I have more guitars with belly so I will try on others! Thank you again!

Hi Just wondered if you kept the heat on for 24 hours as well.@@mboyer68

I'm not sure about what you wrote..did it fix the belly bulge problem?

Publishing? Publishing? This is youtube, where the most popular videos are things farting or singing songs with farts. This isn't some MIT information repository. How the fuck would i know what glue they used? Or what it's properties are? And if i did, would that have helped you? Because you know the type of glue on your guitar and it's properties, right? What a jackass you are, holy shit.