I join your comment...

💜

Thanks, I edit too :)

​@@torbjornahman shhhhhh! 😂

The "multiple takes" is in the fact that his forge-wizardry is many years in the making.

I have seen a tool dipped in something before but never knew what it was. I thought it was coal dust.

It makes a huge difference, punching a hole.

Cree@@torbjornahman

Unless you deform the punch in the hole... ouch...

@@torbjornahman that would not be fun to drill out

It makes total sense!

What's barreling?

@@cholulahotsauce6166 Imagine crushing a cylander from the flat ends. Ideally we would get a perfect cylander. But friction prevents the ends from squishing out like the center. The resulting shape looks like a barrel.

It is! I will try mixing some powder with melted beeswax also, and see how that works.

​@@torbjornahman I really like the water soluble mix you have here. I think it seems to be better than if you have a flamable medium. I may be wrong, but this worked surprisingly well

@@Jimmy_in_Mexico Yes, just be aware that it is water based... so don't quench any red hot H13 punches or drifts in it (although I have seen people do that too)!

@@torbjornahman This is why I make my punches and drifts from Atlantic 33. If they get too hot I can just heat them up to dull red and re-quench them in water and I'm right back in business. Sometimes if I leave the drift in the steel long enough it'll actually get to the right temperature that I can just pull it right out of the steel and re-quench it so that saves a step. This is why I call Atlantic 33 "magical happy steel" and it's become my go-to steel for tools.

​@@torbjornahman разогретый воск смешать с льняным маслом

Absolutely!

It's clearly something else compared to coal dust... I haven't tried the salt based products. They are good too it seems.

@@torbjornahman i used them extensively in an industrial hot forging environment and they are decent but not even close to the graphite molybdenum based products. parts slide along the surface much better of the tool and less heat transfer and better release. the only "White lube" product that has a similar structure to graphite is Boron nitride which works wonderfully but is extremely expensive and not an affordable option

@@broadriverforge Cool, good to know!

Тем не менее, Леонид Архангельский рулит!

​@@user-id8gy3vw2f? При чем тут он?

As I wrote in the description, this is one recipe of many. Be aware this is a water based lube, so don't quench anything that doesn't like water... I will probably make a wax based variant also, to try out.

I laughed at the tiny bubble too! Thunder Bear’s Bubbles

Thanks 👍

Great!

Great!

Sweet, good tip! Thanks

Trevligt! Tack

Thank you!

@@torbjornahman your welcome

Cool. I will try to mix in some powder in melted beeswax also to see how that works. The water based is good for dipping, but will sediment with time so you need to stirr it after a while.

For lead bullets. Try powder coat powder. In a old toaster oven. You can color for different loads. You will get looks at the range.

@@torbjornahman Never Seize is essentially the same, doesn't sediment or dry up and a lot cheaper than putting this together . It uses aluminum in place of the moly which makes it safer. The fumes coming off molybdenum are carcinogenic Why reinvent the wheel ?

@@maplebones Reinvent? I just presented something that has been used for a long time. A product like "Never Seize" isn't available everywhere.

I'm going to try the wax also!

@@torbjornahman just brush it on when the drift is warm and your ready to go

@@broadriverforge Could a hard block of wax (with powder melted in) work too? To rub on? Or it might be too much wax if you can actually get it to a block state again?

@@torbjornahman ive done it that way but for the big drifting i found using small paint brush and having the moly,wax graphite powerder with a little bit of water just so its a thick slurry is easy to butter it up, i like a decent coat for the drifting i do but a hard block of wax would go on well if the drifts not too hot and just the right warmth so it melts on

I'm wondering if Vaseline would be a good carrier.

Sure but this is 10x more effective :) Much more expensive but it works really really well for some applications at least.

@@torbjornahman high there ,you are right it was a information to anybody to use, there are thing that have been lost to blacksmith and they need to be documented ,for example just one foil chewing gum wrapper in a coke forge will stop you fire welding .A clean fire and fuel is very important .Red lead powder mixed with paraffin is a barrier to molten cast iron ,you don’t need to use flux to get a good fire weld ,the scarf is the most important part .The more heats used to forge something degrades the parent metal.Coal as to be coked to be used in a open forge .black hot metal makes skin stick to it . Tempering is done after hardening .wrought iron starts its life as a bloom.Upsetting before you bend can give you a radius free bend .to calculate how long a revert needs to be to make a full cup is (the diameter half the diameter +1/8 of a inch.just a few things that I have used in the past 50 years of blacksmithing Kind regards JimRT.

Yes, that is mostly what I have done until now. This is way better though.

It is!

Yea, it's a huge difference with or without. Then, how it compares to other release agents can be subjective I guess. Try it!!

Hey dude! We don't like critics in this yt channel!

It's actually "plopp" in Swedish :) The sound when something drops in water or a cork releases from a bottle.

@@torbjornahman Yes, it is the same here in the UK - although it has an alternative meaning - like many things. :)