Thanks for the info, was doubting myself but this confirms my ABS problem on my Honda CRV, cheers

Glen, I hate to admit to ignorance of this as I pulled wrenches for many years and that was new to me!! Thanks for sharing that as I learned something new....

Thanks for another precise explanation of system operation and diagnosis. You do a great job getting your point across with the video. The folks in your area are fortunate to have a good technician like you 👍

Great tips Glen and looks like you're getting that van back to its glory days! Keep up the good work!

This is probably the 8th to 10th ABS troubleshooting video I've watched in the last couple of hours, and yet it is the only one that actually showed how to diagnose the ABS Pump itself. Some people jumped to re-soldering joints in the ABS Module and they didn't even mention to try this first. Once you have eliminated; leaks (at each wheel, all the lines, master cyl, brake booster), blown fuses and relays, wiring/connectors/grounds, this should be the next thing to look at.

I have been fighting a slight brake pedal sink for about 5 years. After a ton of break fluid, 2 master cylinders, several trips to the break shop, all I can say is ..... Thank You! My issue is very minimal, and is intermittent. 1 pump of the brakes, and the pedal wont sink, but sometimes the pedal will sink after I've come to a complete stop. A quick pump of the pedal and its solid again. NOW, I know what to do to fix it. You're awesome.

Thank you. I have been fighting with my 2012 Lincoln Mkz for about 4 months now. I couldn't get any fluids to come out of the brake calipers. Hopefully this method help me diagnose my problem. Great job explaining this 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Wow at all the movement in the abs pump

Thanks , ur video goes into my '97 E350 rebuild library . Saved me Hours of 2nd guessing myself & my work especially with the camera work on coat hanger

I have been rebuilding my 2001 f150 for a while now cleaning the whole thing up and this is the biggest problem that I have had and I think you just rectify that for me God bless you and thank you so much

Great video. Amazing hand-camera coordination. Thanks.

Ooh very helping...it has costed me more than 130 dollars trying to solve it here in kenya. .but thank God i will change Abs Pump

4:04 she's so happy to help. thank sir !! good info, my Ford Escape have same issue but goes and come around.

Thanks a million, 1st video I have came across that showed how to test and show what plugs to remove to test.

Thank you so much for your video. I've been trying to find a way to test that pump for a while now. Very well done. {tongue twister and all)

Excellent job! Great visual!

Good video Glen! I didn't know that ford had that test port! Thanks for the tip!

Nice tip. I need to check my son's ABS pump on his '06 Escape when he comes home for Spring Break because he's got a soft pedal.

Thanks for the video, good job! I worked in the business and have never had an abs module go bad, so this is the first car that has happened to.

Hate that feeling like you stepped on a plum when you go for a panic brake. Nice work Glen diagnosing and getting the Ford back on the road.

I drove my wife's Kia Sorento after she returned from a trip out of town, and I noticed the brake pedal seemed to have a lot of travel and would sink to the floor if held. I saw somewhere to check master cylinder versus ABS module problem, to drive on a dirt road about 20 MPH and lock up the brakes a few times. If the problem goes away--at least temporarily--the problem is in the ABS module. I tried it and sure enough, the problem went away for about three weeks before returning. Each time I did the locked- brakes thing, the problem stopped, but for shorter and shorter periods. Eventually I got an ABS warning light. The ABS module was $1300 plus labor, so I traded the POS in. KIA mechanics, as I found out over several trips for repairs, are not the upper end of skilled mechanics.

Great info my friend. Thank you for sharing 👍

Wow, that's a topic I never understood, thanks for the info! Your method of testing the MC is elegantly simple. I imagine there's a lot of force on the fluid coming out of the MC, so you'd need threaded caps for each end to test it properly. I don't remember those test ports on my GM abs sensor, I'll have to look again. Too bad the replacement is so expensive. Removing the ABS would be more complicated than people think, one would have to add in a diverting valve for safety, it wouldn't be easy.

Very helpful thank you for the great detailed video! Haley did a great job !!

That was a great visual of a bad ABS pump.

I learned something today.thanks !

Good advice Glen. Looks like that van is keeping you busy.

very helpful thank you!

nice work and tip glen yea the ford edge has stuff like that going on too. not to mention the booster Kelsey e h c u I know gm used them too where I learned about that

That's a stuck open de-pressurisation ('dump') valve in the ABS module... The hole is just a hole on the dry side of the accumulator piston. What's happening here is when the brake pedal is depressed, it's routing master cylinder line pressure straight through the open valve into the sprung accumulator (the 'spring' sound you hear when the piston is pushing the piece if wire out...) Normally this valve only opens as the second stage of ABS intervention after the isolation valve closes first, in order to reduce pressure in the caliper and allow the wheel to rotate again. But in this case it's always open, so master cylinder pressure is just going to move an accumulator piston instead of the pistons in the caliper... I had this same issue on a Nissan GTR on track.

on the 1996 E Vans the HCU is under the Drivers seat on from Rail before the Fuel filter.. It gets wet. and the HCU controller on top will Short out.. You can remove and replace it with out removing the hcu.. IF those solenoids get wet like mine did it can cause the Van to Shake and Shimmy without even touching the pedal.

Awesome video! This helped me diagnose and fix the sinking brake pedal on my 2003 F150.

the new Master cyl seals worked great but with the engine running the pedal still goes to the floor . A Foxwell NT 630 pro ABS bleed scan tool bleed has improved things but the brakes are still acting up . I need to go find a dirt road and have a play .. maybe the ABS unit just needs a good workout .

Great useful information! Thanks!

great info forsure thumbs up shared

this is a great peice of advice !!! thank you for the video!!

Learned a lot from this thanks!

Thanks I will start with master cylinder test. Hope thats it If it is the abs pump i will go to pick your part with a helper and some dot 3

done the dirt road abs test which worked great but the pedal still sinks to the floor . Got a second hand ABS module coming from EBAY. I have a sneaky feeling thone of the valves is sticking in the ABS valve body .

Thank you so much for this video

coming back for a second look .. My Citroen C5 pedal to the floor was worn out master cylinder seals .. €6 euros for a service kit and a lot of my time and I now have a like new brake pedal feel .

I just replaced my master cylinder in my 99 burban because I thought that was the problem. If I test this thing and it's busted I hope you have a video on how to bypass it.

Great video and very helpful! Question: My pedal does the same. Would this also cause calipers to not release right away? * My 07 expedition driver front won't release right away. I've already replaced with new calipers & pads and check valve is ok. Thx!

Thanks I have that problem.

Great informative video. Thanks

My 1998 f150 4 wheel drive has 3 rubber capped ports on the bottom of my abs pump . Going to test these soon . My abs light is on and some times it bounces off the bottom which tells me it's going into abs mode . I still have ok brakes but oveisly something is going on which is not right .

Excellent video, one of a kind, and thanks to your daughter as well. My question is, can I use a 2-way scan tool to check the pump/solenoid valves? I can't see those ports on my vehicle ABS pump.

Your conclusion appears to be that fluid is leaking into the piston that is effectively a pressure blow-off accumulator. Therefore a valve is not closing completely. Is there a way to nondestructively remove clean/replace the valve?

I hit a pothole while slaming the brakes notice my pedal sinking slowly. i had replace the booster and powerstreering 3 months ago because had hard steering wheel and spongy pedal. Right now i replace master cylinder all 4 caliper because seems like one was sticking rear pasanger side.i get the brake pedal hard enough while truck shut off bleed complete already but when I start the truck and press the brakes starts pulsating contantly just while i press . 1999 ford f350 7.3 dually 4wd

Thank you sir. That's is 100% my problem. My first go-to was the master cly. Nope. Ive had cars that cost less then that pump. I feel like I should bronze the coat hanger tool. Snap-On would sell that for $$$. thaks again.

Thanks for your help

Hey I have a question I don't have any leaks and got brakes bleed twice. Where would you go forward with that?

Nice job Glen, I use a brake line U adapter I made to close off the MC works good... gotta love when the helpers are like are you all set now? All set? Lol my 15yr son got his patience from his mom 😂 girls are essier lol

Cool Tip, I didn't know that

Waw! I learned something new! Thanks.

Okay love the VIDEO...my goes to the FLOOR.. and i just did that TEST mine has no movement

Good information

I have this symptom in my '07 Expy. Now I have a solution for verifying the problem.

Would you pull dust caps off abs pump for an autobleed

Was not aware of this trick! Have seen this happen twice before and basically ruled it out by process of elimination and only the ABS module could be the cause but I never knew of a way to test it directly.

Cheers from Austin, Texas . New to your channel.

I changed the brake pads and rotors on my vehicle. Is that normal for the brake pedal to go to the floor when first pressing

Thanks sir

Great video, your expertise is much appreciated. I can’t wait to run this “rod” test. But I thought I heard you say that you tested the module before you did the pump. How do you test the module?

Thanks for that test idea! Working on '02 Tahoe w/zero pedal resistance (eng on) no leaks, new master cylinder bench bled, lines bled & no air, Autel ABS brake bleed "passed" w/no DTC's. Will try that test next. Question: Of the two lines between the master cylinder and ABS, is one a "return line"?? Wondering where all the pedal pressure is going, if there's no leaks. Many thanks!

Hey Ozzstar. I think you did a great job showing the steps to test. My ABS is from a chevy silverado 01. I did your test but I have the opposite effect in my test. I get no movement at all. What do you think?

When I clicked on your video I was expecting to see about the RABS module/unit on the driver side rail, but I'm always glad to discover new info. Would a 91 diesel van have that pump in addition to the module? I'm having the same issue with pedal fade, trying to track down the issue, man it's a headache! Haha. Great video, thanks for sharing!

Great video thankyou

Hi , good video 👍 I have a 2000 F150 The ABS light has been on a long while but my brakes still work fine. Besides the ABS not working and my brakes locking up on a sudden stop, should I be worried about driving my Ol Bessie?

Well, I have the same year, same model van as you and did this test with a similar result! So, if I understand you correctly, we need an ABS pump, but NOT the module, correct? Any compatible vehicles with a similar pump? Not having much luck sourcing it as of yet. Thank you for this!

Very informative

Thanks for the video. Does a 09 Ford Escape have test ports? Got one doing the same but the pumps configuration is a little different. Thanks in advance.!!!

We’ve taken my dad’s 2009 Ford Explorer to 2 mechanics so far - a local mechanic up the street from us (who said they couldn’t figure out what the issue was for the soft brake pedal) & we then took it to a Ford dealership, to see if they could diagnose the problem. (I don’t know how long they sent on looking for problems - but they also said that they couldn’t figure out the issue. They now say they need at least 2 extra hours, for diagnosis, which will cost over $300!) My questions are these - do you know how thorough these initial inspections are, through the dealerships (or do they do as little as possible, especially if they’re busy like this dealership was) & wound you recommend, at this point, of just giving the vehicle to charity & investing in a newer vehicle? I’m not a mechanic myself & know very little about fixing vehicles - (other than what I learn from videos like yours) - & want to know what the best course of action would be, in this particular case. (To save both time & money.) I’m planning on asking Ford to provide a list of “tests” they did, while they’ve had my dad’s vehicle - but I don’t know if they will do this or how detailed the list will be, if I can obtain it.

And all you have to do for that is go down the road and slam on the brakes a couple of times to activate the pump and get it working and I’ve done another trick take a hammer or brass hammer and slightly tap the pump because the valves get hung up in it and it’s mainly on Fords drive down the road 30 to 40 miles an hour slam on the brakes get that ABS system active do it 3 to 4 times your problems gone you got a full pedal it won’t go to the floor no more I’ve seen people replace their ABS pump and had the same issue. You have to activate the pump get it working again.

Sinking also could be the brake booster is the booster is leaking good informative video

amazing video info

Хорошее видео. Like

Good video. To the point.

Do many, or most, other makes and models cars and vans have these same two test ports on their ABS pumps, too? If not, why, I wonder. Thanks. Also, can ABS pumps leak externally through these piston test ports (the ones that have them)?

is it possible for the abs pump to spray fluid when pedal is pressed

What about drilling a tapping one of them test ports with a 1/4x20 and running a bolt into it? If it can't move it can't bypass.

Bmw x3 just had my rear brakes replaced and before I paid I checked and yes they are Spongy and they say they would have to go deeper and check the master cylinder $$$

Very informative…how about “how to replace”? Thanks!

Would it be possible to tap some threads into the test ports to prevent the bypass from opening and stop the soft pedal?

You never mentioned how much movement a normal operating pump should have, 1/4 inch?

After u plug master, do u press on brake pedal with engine off to see if it’s hard? Thx

Trouble shooting a 2011 Ford Edge with intermittent sinking brake pedal. I can restore the brake pedal by driving on dirt road and slamming on the brakes which engages the ABS system. This lasts for anywhere between 2 weeks to 2 months then the pedal sinks again. I can also restore the pedal by using ThinkDiag OBDII diagnostic software which allows me to turn on the ABS pump while sitting still in the driveway. Does it make sense to you that I probably have a sticking dump valve? When stuck open it is allowing fluid to circulate internally in the HCU I think. A new ABS ECU & HCU is not available for purchase through Ford (Nationwide outage). Are you aware of a way to rebuild or clean out the HCU, specifically the dump valve and possibly restore the normal operation? I know I would then have to bleed the HCU as well as the entire system. Thoughts? Thanks!

Thank you Buy Mine only when the engine is running

Great video! 😄 Could you please help me know whether what are those 6 brake lines for? What do they do I'm just curious to know. I hope you help!

My 2014 Tundra has this symptom. So when you disconnect the two brake lines from the master cylinder, you will test it by stepping on the pedal,after you plug the two holes up.if the pedal goes down, the master cylinder is bad,right ? If the pedal doesn’t go down, the ABS pump is bad,right? Thanks. By the way,great testing procedures. I will try on mine

Hi! I've got similar problem with Opel Vectra C I figured out this test by myself after I swap ESP module and open old one with grinder but in my case pedal sinking in the floor slowly but there are no movement of this spring loaded containers (those which you showed). I installed new MC (my firs attempt) than I swapped ESP module, checked new MC with plugs, as you said - it's hard, no leaks, system was bleeded by adding pressure to fluid container and problem persist. Any tips? ps. It only sinking at running engine - probably higher pressure during boost. Friend of mine told me that in ABS/ESP system there maybe bypass valve in MC, have you seen one?

Can this be random and have a slight vibration in the pedal only

What are the lines called that run from the master cylinder to the abs module

So if you put plugs on the Master cylinder Ports the brake pedal should be hard mine goes all the way down so the master cylinder is bad. Of it has air in the System will it still be hard with the plugs on.

Is a excelente explication and great vedeo 👍👏 I replaced a master cylinder on my 95 chevrolet suburban and the pedal not have pressure!! I drain all Brake fluid and take the air but the brake pedal still going to end down not keep pressure!! Anyone knows the tricks for taking air or something is wrong 🤔 I appreciate if someone can help cheers from Norway

How would you bleed the lines after putting a new one in? Is there a special way to do it?

What do you do for a leaking ABS pump when Ford has discontinued the part (#3L3Z2C286AARM) for a 2000 Ford E350 Club Wagon XLT w/7.3 PowerStroke?

Do you have the ignition on? Tested my 2002 sonoma like this and the pistons don't move at all. (Master cylinder?)

If the brake booster does not hiss after you remove the vac line would that mean the booster is bad? i have the same issue with the pedal slowly going to the floor. i plan on testing the abs pump like you showed. just looking at all the possible causes. it's a 98 t-bird with 59k miles it's been sitting for some time now

Hey 👋man I have a question with similarities to this. my test port is leaking on the left port behind the dust cap any way I can possibly fix that in the garage ??