BREAK TEST: 316 Stainless Steel 10mm Wedge Anchor Bolt, Taiwan made by Z-SINPRO

  Рет қаралды 9,706

Climbing Taiwan

Climbing Taiwan

11 ай бұрын

Z-SINPRO 日新達企業有限公司 SS316 M10 x 90mm wedge bolt
Certifications: none stated yet (but the manufacture say they plan to get EN 959)
Manufactured in Taiwan (臺灣製)
日新達企業有限公司
M10X90mm 316不鏽鋼拉脹螺栓/白鐵拉脹螺絲/壁虎
www.zsinpro.com/
I'm not affiliated with the manufacturer of these bolts. I'm an independent climber & developer that is curious about all this hardware being made & used here in Asia.
I do understand that there are countries and places that has newer climbing development and growth happening, where acquiring certified bolts or hardware isn't feasible or comes at an unreasonable cost. Or perhaps using homeland manufactured bolts instead is accepted by the locals and internal testing is carried out; it saves on cost and supports local manufacturing.
Whatever the reasons, I can just share my experiences and urge other developers, or those bolting to do your homework. When using small thin stuff, there isn't a lot of metal there to give you more margin for error. So either go bigger, or go with stuff that's certified or definitely tested. Use the right metal, bolt type and length for the rock you're installing in. Do good work; keep on learning and refining your art of route development and bolting.
If a company did their own internal or homeland testing and were transparent about the results and production, I personally would gladly purchase direct and use their products.
Have I installed uncertified bolts/hardware before in small secluded crags?Yes. Rated and tested by the manufacturer?Maybe. Tested by me?Yes. But I stand behind my decisions, keep records/logs of what it is, and can make any needed adjustments. Yet I personally agree that much larger climbing crags that get lots of visitor traffic should have consistency and be up to international bolting standards.
See our Break Test spreadsheet for more detailed information:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
DISCLAIMER: The information and "backyard science" testing shown in this video is not solid grounds to state a bolt, hanger, or hardware is safe and appropriate to install. It is the developer's responsibility to make the best judgment on up-to-date understanding and practices. Choosing to install and use uncertified climbing/rappelling hardware will raise additional concerns and questions: What is the quality of the raw materials and production method? Is QC (Quality Control) being conducted? What is the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level); meaning is proper testing of a sufficient sample amount being conducted? Does the product meet the requirements for possible certification? If is certified; are up-to-date certifications provided? Does the manufacturer and/or retailer guarantee quality production? If a bad batch is discovered, will the manufacturer/retailer inform buyers for a product recall?
Developers and installers must also ask: Do I actually know who manufactures the product? Is the retailer I'm buying it from reputable? Is the bolt/hanger/hardware the appropriate choice and metal for the area, (e.g near saltwater)? Am I mixing dissimilar metals? Have I done any personal checking/inspection of the quality, strength, etc?
One last note: Higher discretion should be exercised if deciding to use uncertified bolts/hangers/hardware that was bought from a hardware-store that you intend to use for life-dependent situations (e.g. climbing, rappelling, rope access).

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