Troubleshooting Artillery Sidewinder X1 | Part 2 | Firmware update, PID and extruder calibration

Рет қаралды 28,419

4 жыл бұрын

#3dprinting #3dprinter #fdm
In the second video of this small series I am showing how to further improve print quality of Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D printer.
This video explains, how to update the firmware, calibrate the extruder, and perform PID calibration.
Part 1 of this series: • Troubleshooting Artill...
Firmware: www.thingiverse.com/thing:385... - you'll need files\firmware_marlin_2.0+tft_for_x1\display_tft_firmware_x1\* for the TFT firmware update and files\firmware_marlin_2.0+tft_for_x1\firmware_marlin_2.0_x1\firmware_marlin2.0_for_x1.hex for the control board
Linux way of updating the firmware: www.thingiverse.com/make:734108/
Robscar's profile: www.thingiverse.com/robscar/a...
Ben, the Benchie's cousin: www.thingiverse.com/thing:279...
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Пікірлер: 82

@richieclarkiepiano 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for taking the time to make this video Igor. Appreciated!

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Honestly, I'm becoming a little frustrated with this printer. Not getting an improvement I was hoping for :(

@mikelamonds165 4 жыл бұрын

Great video Igor. I did manage to remove the TTF cable in order to update the firmware in my Artillery Sidewinder. However, it was a royal pain. I had to remove hot glue with a razor and small pliers for about an hour. I was very concerned about damage to the connection. Finally, after an hour I managed to remove it. Very difficult.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

I was afraid of the same (in fact, one of the viewers mentioned in the comments that he ripped off the cable even after warming the glue with a hairdryer). If you have access to Linux, it is so much more convenient to do this without even opening up the printer.

@ekiranoglu 4 жыл бұрын

You don't have to try to pull the glued end connected to the screen, just disconnect the other end of the cable that is connected to the main board.

@genii666 4 жыл бұрын

In the end, it was my soldering iron and Acto knife which saved the day :)

@HAUNTR1 4 жыл бұрын

I pulled out my heat gun and softened it right up

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

I suspect I may have found a mechanical issue with my z axis and I think I know how to fix it. Stay tuned :)

@dawgofrick3 4 жыл бұрын

Looking forward to that video. Can we also get your overall review of the printer once you get it dialed in to your liking?

@garybarbourii8274 4 жыл бұрын

Do you know what pin is for the filament runout sensor? I keep trying PB0 but it doesn't work.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@garybarbourii8274 What are you trying to do? Eliminate it?

@garybarbourii8274 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop no I'm trying to make it work! I'm working with some stock mkstft_28 firmware and not matter what I do it reads open. It is supposed to be pin PB0, but it just always reads open, no matter how I invert it.

@garybarbourii8274 4 жыл бұрын

I know this is a clone of the mkstft, so maybe it's on a different pin. I just figured since you managed to get it working you would be the one to ask.

@kaden56 3 жыл бұрын

I have a really bad eye for improvements on prints so I am asking, what are the noticeable differences between the original and the print after all of the tuning?

@kampf-wuffi 3 жыл бұрын

Same PID issues here. Marlin 2.0.6.1 and Sidewinder X1. Temps oscillate between 237 and 244°C when set to 240. Auto PID Tuning doesn't work well. P and I values are too high, D values too low. Have to set it manually. :-/

@KaiPosadowsky 4 жыл бұрын

For people struggling with the TFT cable: Just use your hairdryer to warm up the hot glue and remove it carefully, at best with metal pliers, so the glue attaches on it and removes easily. I thank the Igor for the alternative flashing way with Linux, that was new to me.

@KaiPosadowsky 4 жыл бұрын

@@Kravenagger not in my case. All connectors are more than reasonable filled by hot glue 😉

@KaiPosadowsky 4 жыл бұрын

Now there is a new situation! You no longer need to open the case, just install the new TFT firmware from here www.thingiverse.com/thing:4251390 and you can just disable the serial communication of it via menu. In this state flashing of marlin works just fine. After that you can enable the serial of the TFT again and you are good to go.

@MrMortenVutborg 3 жыл бұрын

even easyer to just disconnect the black and red wire, does the job fine aswell.

@KaiPosadowsky 3 жыл бұрын

@@MrMortenVutborg true, but by opening the case you might loose the guarantee, if there is any.

@MrMortenVutborg 3 жыл бұрын

@@KaiPosadowsky where i'm from, altering the firmware warrants the guarantee anyways 😉

@bluediablito 4 жыл бұрын

Great video!!! I was able to update with the sd card but I am having trouble setting up the second part. Would you know were I can find a detail step by step tutorial on setup and updating like you did in the second part of the update (board update). Would you be able to do a detail video on how to do it? Thank you once again. Ps. Suggestion, Test Heat break upgrade difference in print quality.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Yes, I was thinking about doing a more detailed video on this. Maybe even livestream it. Stay tuned, I am actually going to try the test firmware this weekend. Meanwhile, you can find step by step instructions here: www.thingiverse.com/make:734108/

@bluediablito 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop thank you.

@larrynygaard9846 4 жыл бұрын

Awesome video! I tried this and used my heat gun to soften the glue. I was gently pulling and all 4 wires came out of the connector :( I was trying to see the orientation of the wires but your video wasn't zoomed in. Do you know what row of pins both of the white cables are in? I took off the top wires by mistake and think I have them oriented correctly but not 100% sure that they are on the correct row of pins. Of course I can't find any info searching the web.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

I was afraid of that happening, that's why I decided to discard that idea. I'll try to take a picture of mine and send it to you. I believe I saw your post in the Artillery group.

@larrynygaard9846 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop Awesome, Yes that was me... Thanks much!!!

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@larrynygaard9846 Try this link: www.dropbox.com/sh/r2tut1tlwwdgt7p/AADrGC1OIWtPYjAN9Szd__0Ua?dl=0 I've uploaded some pictures there

@davefenton102 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the videos Igor, at least I know now that I'm not the only one having trouble getting my swx1 to print perfect surfaces. I haven't had the printer long, so only just started working on getting a print quality I'm happy with after some pretty ordinary ones straight out of the box. I'm still searching through all the clips and comments i can find looking for hints and clues and ideas and suggestions. Much like you, I've gone through trying all the usual steps of tightening and tuning everything i can that usually helps or fixes the issues, but, like you have found, nothing really seems to fix the irregular face surfaces. Some places the walls are fine, so the printer is capable of what I'm looking for, it just doesn't seem to be able to do it all round, even with belts and extuder pulleys firmly tightened. Starting to wonder if it's the slicer, as I'm still running cura 3.3.1. Tip about pid autotune fail for swx1 and how to get it to work. I noticed trying to autotune pid setting for the extruder that the only way I could get it to succeed was to preheat the extruder to about 3 to 5 degrees less than tune temp so it doesn't overshoot too far when it heats up for the tune. I think because it heats up so fast it cant help overshooting too far and throwing up a fail, so this helps to calm the rocket enough to get its measure. I'm definitely not super savvy with pid tuning, so I'm not sure if the results of the tune aren't as good with only a few degrees of temperature movement to begin with. What I did find is that when I set the target temperature to 200 and let it heat up, what I noticed was that on the original settings it heated the extruder to temperature in less than a minute but it took more than 4 minutes for the temperature waves to settle down into a stable line, but after I ran it again from the autotune settings I got using above procedure, it only took a minute or two to settle down into a stable temperature. So there was improvement. Didn't seem to change the look of the print though.....

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, that's an interesting tip about PID. Are you saying that if I want to autotune it for, say, 215C, I should preheat it first to 210C? I was experimenting lately with the Z axis couplings and I think I have a few ideas on how to improve them. I've been finally able to see some visible improvement. Stay tuned :) Unfortunately, Amazon says my order of spares is delayed.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Also, I tried switching slicers - didn't really help. I tried Cura 4.4.2, Prusaslicer, and IdeaMaker.

@davefenton102 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, although I was still finding it overshooting in failing even from a 5 degree heat up margin, 3 degrees seemed to work every time. I also had success by reentering the M303 command for autotune after it failed and the temp had dropped back just below the target temp. As a basic example, my procedure was to send M303 S200, then reenter M303 S200 into the command line ready to go but not sent. Then I let the auotune try and fail, watched the temp drop back after fail till it gets to about 198, then send the M303 S200 I had sitting in the command line waiting. This time it will heat up without overshooting and failing.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@davefenton102 Interesting. I'll give it a try, will let you know, if it works for me.

@davefenton102 4 жыл бұрын

I got marginal success changing from cura 331 to cura 442, but I also changed some of the speed settings and turned off combing, so I'm not sure which of those helped the problem. I can send you photos of my 3dBency if it helps. Have you tried adjusting your linear advance? I think Teaching tech had a clip on this which is where I got the idea of turning off the combing and a few other settings. But like I say I'm not sure which thing helped improve it, but there was finally some improvement although not 100%. I've put all my adjusted settings for extruder and pid into the start script of the gcode, this is quite easy on cura. I think I'm using a k setting of .16, (not near my printer to check), which was suggested by a post I found, I haven't actually run the linear advance test myself, but thinking maybe it should be close to .1.

@RixFPV 3 жыл бұрын

How do you do the extruder calibration without Octoprint?

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

I'm confused. What happened to doing a Marlin firmware update? Is the stubborn connection to the TFT preventing the Marlin upgrade? I thought Artillery claims that this has a bootloader installed on the main board that would make the firmware process relatively easy. I'm watching this series of yours very closely before I purchase my Sidewinder next month. I have found from some other users that there is a problem with the factory installed leadscrew nuts and possibly warped leadscrews. If this is true I would perhaps start your focus there. I've also heard that the leadscrew synch belt may be contributing to this layer inaccuracy. Your printer certainly suffers from the same problems I've seen with others complaints. Your Ben test models all also have blobs on both sides of the model on the hull in the same places. Do you get that with other prints as well? I'm not experienced enough to suggest what they might be caused by or if they are related to the Z axis issues. Anyway, I'm eagerly waiting for the next video from Igor's Workshop. Thanks for sharing this with us.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Yes, the TFT basically hijacks the serial connection. There are 2 ways to work around this: disconnect the TFT cable (which I couldn't accomplish due to a huge amount of hot glue in all connectors) or use a Linux script, which attempts to hijack the connection before the TFT does (which works perfectly for me, using my wife's laptop running Ubuntu from a Live USB :) ) I'm currently also under impression that something is not right with the Z axis screws/nuts and/or couplers. Stay tuned, some spares are finally arriving today and I plan to run and record a few tests.

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop You probably know this but leave a gap in your coupler between the stepper shaft and the leadscrew. I read that some of these Sidewinders were not assembled from the factory properly and had the leadscrew sitting right on top of the stepper shaft. Thanks for the reply. Good luck and keep trying. You'll get it and then be able to share it with us.

@ed9art 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Igor, could you please help me to figure out how to format usb stick correctly? as I cleaned everything by mistake, and Artillery x1 doesn’t see my G code files. Thank you

@Dan-ro6nj 3 жыл бұрын

try GUIFORMAT, Fat32 formatter, or Rufus (set to Fat32 or Large Fat32). Any of these should work

@godfish67 4 жыл бұрын

I thought I wanted to do the Firmware? but after watching this I don't really see what good it will do? I'm lucky that my display connections didn't get hot snot on them and I have a SWX1-V5 that's printing great.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Oh, do you have V5? What's the difference between it and V4? As for the firmware - I'd still recommend to update it, especially since there's a non-invasive way to accomplish that. You'll get an unlocked EEPROM, which would allow you to save modified settings; also you'll get access to extended features like mesh bed levelling (without a probe) or linear advance.

@joseico90 2 жыл бұрын

Spraying Isopropanol alcohol on hot glue helps removing it with ease.

@Pantdo 4 жыл бұрын

I want to update the firmware (of my sidewinder) but it wont start the update when i put in the microSD. I downloaded the file "firmware_marlin_2.0_x1" unziped it and saved the unziped folder "firmware_marlin_2.0_x1" on the microSD. It didn't work. So then i tried saving only the .h and .hex files on the microSD, but i also didn't work out.. How do i set this proberly up?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

You need to unzip files from files\firmware_marlin_2.0+tft_for_x1\display_tft_firmware_x1\ to your MicroSD card. .hex is for the control board, not the TFT screen. Also make sure you're using a small card (=

@Pantdo 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop Thanks for the answere I will try it tomorrow :)

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Good luck! Let me know, if the process works for you

@Pantdo 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop In this very moment the system is now installing the update, thank you very much for the quick response :)

@felixheller4682 4 жыл бұрын

I know its been 3 months now but if you're temperature is still overshooting, it is modt probably because of the cheap standard thermistor (in my case at least, v4). Change it for a better one and the printer suddenly has stable temperatures :)

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

I've replaced a thermistor with a similar one (stock replacement) and it didn't help much. I may try a better one later (there are some better screw-in options, but the hole in the heat block is not tapped and I don't have a tap). For now I've got used to it.

@LRS_maker 4 жыл бұрын

Couldn't you just disconnect the power cable to the TFT board instead of removing the signal cables to achieve the same result? I assume it needs to be disconnected because the same pins are used for the flashing process, if they are connected without power this should achieve the same result.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

That connector was also completely buried under hot glue.

@freakwease 4 жыл бұрын

Nothing happens when I insert card. i have tried every file. any ideas?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Unzip files from files\firmware_marlin_2.0+tft_for_x1\display_tft_firmware_x1\ to your MicroSD card. Make sure you're using a small card (=

@kodywease6895 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Apparently I had the files in the wrong spot on the card. Very helpful!

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@Kody Wease You're welcome! Good luck!

@kodywease6895 4 жыл бұрын

I did get the firmware updated. Unplugged the screen successfully and tries to connect but all I'm getting is denied access. I have tried playing with baud Rate.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@kodywease6895 Drop me an email at brenagwynn@gmail.com with a screenshot of your error. I'll try to help.

@DonPierdlo 3 жыл бұрын

Sory stary plan A jest potrzebny. Jak jestes na tyle madry zeby przeprowadzic plan B pokaz jak to zrobic planem A. Lapka w gore za Plan B ale oczekujemy tez planu A

@nuhbiwan 4 жыл бұрын

Honestly, your prints don't look that good even after tuning. What filament and temps were you using?

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I'm not happy with the progress either. I 'm using Inland Gray PLA+, printed at 215C

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

Just found this and was pretty shocked! Apparently some of the X1s Z stepper motors had screws too short to mount to the rails properly and they just jammed a zip tie in each hole to get it out the door. You might want to check this. I'll try to insert the link to the YT I just watched about this. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n7Z9gNedyp64e58.html

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for pointing this out. I've checked both Z motors - they are mounted with long enough screws. Not sure if I'm happy in general with this mount, though. Threading a thin aluminum wall... not sure. But I definitely don't have anything like EZY3D LAB has

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop Can you put some T-Nuts in the extrusion groove? That would be the way to go or drill the holes all the way through and lock nut the other side with long screws. That needs to be a very solid mount as I'm sure you know. Looking forward to hearing about those couplers. While you have the motors off have you thought about pulling the leadscrews out and rolling them on a flat surface to check for warping? I'm just curious about how they look.

@IgorsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@ew7007 I've already checked the leadscrews. They are reasonably straight. I'll check if I have any t-nuts at home. But I tried wiggling the motors quite hard, and they didn't budge.

@ew7007 4 жыл бұрын

@@IgorsWorkshop Sounds like your on the right track. Good news about the leadscrews. Hopefully the couplers will make an improvement. FYI I've been exchanging comments with @Stephen-TheLightSpeed! !! on this Z banding issue and he ultimately removed the existing leadscrew nuts and anti-backlash system and replaced it all with standard brass leadscrew nuts and it finally solved his problem. Rather drastic, I know but he claims it worked. Keep me posted.

@standown7738 3 жыл бұрын

hey guys do you think that all 4 screws on the motor case need to be torqued equally inorder for the motor to work correctly? If I just used two screws diagonally to secure that motor to the extruder could that be the reason why my motor is glitching and erratic? AND DO NOT USED HOT GLUE TO SECURE THE RIBBON CABLE. YOU WILL DIE. IT WILL NEVER ALL COME OUT OF THE RIBBON SOCKET..

@Lekthor 3 жыл бұрын

dude... want me to show you my Ben print without all this nonsense about firmware? I haven't even tightened belts and my prints are pristine with just 10 minutes spent on adjusting settings in cura... and yes.. I set everything spcificly for every print but 10 minutes in slicer for 10 or more hour print is fair trade in my book.