I have the artillery genius and I can not stress enought how good this printer is for its price, high quality all around it, also the customer service is excelent, I did have no problems with my printer but I read in forums other peoples and who ever had a broken part artillery send it for free , every single question I had for them has been answer really professional and fast. I have creality ender 3, cr10, creality ender 5 , and the artilery, for me the artillery is the best of all, super silent, fast printing and quality all around it

Thank you for making and posting this video! Super pleased you included all the links in the video description! Viewer statistic: Looking for 3rd printer, X1 is my #1 on my shopping list with some upgrades. Don't mind any detractors regarding your video. I appreciated the time and insight you put in to this project. It helps me immensely towards making my next purchase. My other option was to go for an BLV MGM Cube, but it's too pricey and needs too much time commitment.

Have one and love it. Done a couple of mods. Replaced the arm with a metal one, moved the fillament off the top of the gantry, installed a z-brace, clamps for the ribbon cables.

I've had mine for a little more than 6 months now. I've printed almost 20kg's of filament, multi colored prints, lots and lots of filament changes, and I have yet to have any of the problems you talk about in this video.

I disagree with so many things in this video bu it's good to have it posted so that people can have an all around opinion and decide for themselves. I don't want to sound negative but I think I'll share my opinion for anyone that wants to read it. First of all that is not a v5 but a v4( with probably a few extra spare parts) . I have had one of the first v4 units for around six months and I didn't have any problems with it other than misaligned eccentric nuts(which is one of they things that they suggest that you do out of the box in their manual). This has been my first 3d printer and I bought it because it was the best for the price. Now in regards to the ribbon cables, mine have gone on and off a bunch of times for minor modifications (that begun after the 2 month mark) that and never got fried. Most burned cables I've seen come from people not plugging them in correctly. Sure there were a few instances where there was a bend pin in some boards like yours but it's a Chinese printer low budget printer... there are definitely gonna be a few faulty units (although their support is one of the best I've seen thus far and will definitely help you to get a replacement). Also, the slight pull that the cable needs on the z axis to be removed, is something that will 100% never happen during printing if you don't pull it yourself. TL;DR you don't need to put hot glue on it because if you want to remove it for maintenance you might break/rip something. Just be careful while removing it or plugging it in. Furthermore, the "every 3 post there is a problem with the printer" point, that is very true but it's also something natural. Most people that use the printer and do not have any problems with it will not post about it at all. It happens in every 3d printing group and during my research I've seen 4 or 5 different ones. There is not printer out there that will not have someone complaining about it. My extruder idler arm didn't break thus far but I don't know if I am just lucky or it's the fact that I use it carefully and I am not putting to much pressure on it, so I can't have an opinion regarding that. A spare on is one of the first things I printed just to be safe because mine was, as I said, one of the first units which back then didn't include that. Now in order to be fair, those are the things I didn't like about the printer: First of all the firmware is not greatly optimized... The extruder steps are way to high and it needs a bit of PID tuning it needs a bit of tuning to get it right. Second, the spool holder definitely needs those parts that you have printed if you are using different size spools. Third, the cooling fan needs a different design such as the one you have. Lastly I don't like that I can't upgrade the firmware without removing the touchscreen (that is due to the mks touchscreen though and not because of artillery).

I put a line of hot glue alongside all the ribbon cables. If you use some isopropanol alcohol and apply it with a small brush onto the hot glue, you can easily take the glue off after a few seconds without any force at all. The alcohol itself will dissipate completely.

I have had mine since 1 November 2019. It has been going constantly with many filament changes. No problems.

Nice video. Thanks for the warnings.

thanks for the video!

got one in june. The arm didn't break on mine, the tension seems to have been correct from the factory. But the ribbon cable just walked on me. Thanks for making this, there's some very good info in here!

I see your points and I have seen others having the same problems. However, there was not a single of these on my machine. When I change filament (and I do frequently because of color changes), I never press the idler arm. I only pull out the filament, when I have confirmed in the menu after heating. Same for putting in the new filament - just put it to the short end of the tube and it will grab the filament. Spoolholder, I have a printed version beside the printer. I do not like the extra amount of weight on top of the printer. Based on my experience, I would recommend this printer.

About two months in with over 500 hours of runtime and not a single problem other than operator error as this is my first printer. I understand that quite a few people have broken idler levers but what I don't understand is how. My solution is don't touch the lever... I have never needed it as the filament loads fine without it. So you say don't buy the printer but you make no suggestions as to an alternate suggestion. Tell me one printer under $500 that doesn't require some upgrades? I chose to focus on more relevant issues like the direct drive extruder over the bowden tubes which seem to always be an issue on the lower cost machines like the Ender 3 or CR 10. Issues like the ribbon cables are easily solved as you have demonstrated and not a reason to discount one of the best 3d printers for the money. FYI... I'm currently 2-1/5 days into a 3 day print and not a single flaw in the print. I was even able to change out spools in the middle with no problems.

I just ordered one of these this week to receive next week; I'll be sure to implement your suggestions. At work, we had a MakerBot and ended up having to fully enclose the unit to work well; would you suggest me making an insulated cabinet for this unit? Thanks.

My arm just broke today. Thanks for the video. I'm ordering the metal arm.

Excellent upload, but I have to ask, did you do a video on how to change the idler arm??? My one broke a few months back and I’m a total new comer and this is my first 3d printer so any help would be massively appreciated. All the best from Australia 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎🤓

I have mine for almost 2 weeks now, no problems yet. Thanks for the video

My hot end just started smoking and the temp climbs automatically. Had finished a print shortly before loading up a new one. I have had some banding issues past few prints and was working on finding the issue. Stock hot end and extruder assembly.

I disagree with you. Some people have bad experiences with the Sidewinder X1 and some people have great experiences with the Sidewinder X1. This goes for any product you buy, which is why you shouldn't buy the 3D Printer from any company in which you can't return it once broken and have to pay for return shipping.

Just got mine 2 weeks ago and it did NOT include the extra idler arm, I’m hoping the issue is fixed? Or they forgot to put it in the box? Just finished up my first Kg spool of pla and so far, it has exceeded my expectations. I’m a total noob to 3D printing/slicing and from what I can tell at this point, I may need to print a better cooling shroud if I want perfect overhangs without using support. Or I just need to learn more about various settings and save them for various prints. Does everyone have over 10 print profiles?

This is the only video making me hesitant to grab a sidewinder x1 v4

Got to remember, a lot of people has had no issues with the printer at all. I am one of those. I always check everything on any printer I buy. Tension on idler arm is to high set from factory. My original is still going strong. You have a few valid points on the other hand, but those are minor and not in the scale of "do not buy this printer" - try to be as objectiv as possible, it will benefit all - in the end. Sure, it has some issues, as almost all Chinese printers, but this one also has so many good options and comes at a low cost - so buying small things to make it perfect is easy.

Is the one on the Genius better? I am dozens of prints, hundreds of hours, no problem. But it is very tight.

thanks for the honest review sir.

Since I got my Sidewinder, I've had to replace all of the ribbon cables and now I'm replacing the idler arm same as you. I went ahead and ordered the circuit board just to be on the safe side and have it if I need it. I'm replacing the nozzle as well because I did manager to print quite a few things before I started having problems. I have the version 3 machine, by the way. I still think it's a great printer in terms of its features and the quiet stepper drivers/motors, but it's just typical cheap Chinese junk in terms of quality of parts. The ribbon cable design is nice, I really like the lack of a bunch of loose wires like on my other printers, but the clamping system they use leaves much to be desired. You would think that they could fix that design by adding some sort of clamping mechanism to the ribbon cable connectors. That's my 2 cents anyway.

hi i try the metal version and it didn't feet well no issue with the plastic one

Hi . i had just order the artillery sidewinder and i was aware of this issue .So i had ordred a aluminium one . Will be receiving the Printer this week ,I'm excited to try it out . So you have profile for prusa silcer for this printer ? can you direct me where can get it ?

Hi. I am having some trouble with my 3D printer. I have a Folgertech FT 5 R2 and I am getting what looks like some small minor underextrusion or filament skipping in the layers and also extrusion inconsistencies throughout my prints. I am using Makergeek’s PLA with the printer’s original extruder. I have already change the print speed setting from the default, which was print speeds of 60 mm/s, acceleration of 3000 mm/s^2 and jerk of 20 mm/s to the changed setting, print speeds of 30 mm/s, acceleration of 500 m/s^2 and jerk to 15 mm/s, from there being layer shifting and under extrusion problems at the default speed setting. this kind of worked but still my problem that I am asking about is still there. I don’t known if the problem is the filament, the extruder setup or my Cura Slicer Profile Settings. What is the best why way to solve this or a list of things I can try?

what i heard is "this is the best printer if you don't mind fixing a few things" lol

I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't mention the lack of an all metal heat break as a potential issue. An easy enough upgrade, but something that I wish they would come with out of the gate!

So I don't own a 3d printer yet. I'm late to the game on this and still doing some research before I purchase one. The sidewinder 1x is recommended on a lot of other channels but I just found your KZfaq channel. What 3d printer would you recommend since the Sidewinder 1x has so many issues?

Are you sure it's V5? I can only find the latest model as V4. Please advise thanks.

My runout filament cable came broken. I will need to replace. How do I route the new cable from the connector to the sensor? Thank you.

You can go a little more on hotglue. Isopropyl makes removal effortless.

Hi Thanks for the video. I decided to get a X1 and wanted to ask if the hex screws are metric or Imperial. I wanted to pick up a tool kit for it. Thanks.

They sell metal tension arms on Amazon for those Titan/Titan clone extruders.

If you had to decide between the Ender5 Plus and Artillery Sidewinder which would you pick for first time user?

any solution video will come?

Any new issues you encountered?

While I agree the arms is not the best and a Metal Arm would be nice this printer has been an absolute joy to own. The filament change option is great, and almost eliminates the need to push the arm at all, and as you stated the tension knob at the back of the arm needs to be loosened. It appears to me that you just received a dud machine, which happens, Look at Angus from Makers Muse he hated the Ender 3 because of all the issues he had but everyone else loved it!

Mine came tightened so far that the adjustment wheel sapped apart!

I broke the screen when assembling the printer ( my bad though ). Printed with octoprint while i sourced a replacement screen! Still going strong with the original idler arm but after seeing this vid i ordered aluminum version from aliexpress.

Mine will finish a print and then won't go home it set down on top of the print ruining it. Anyone know how to fix that

Since you don't recommend this printer what printer would you recommend that print 300x300?

is this the x1 v4? wonder if they fixed any of these issues

Man, you have some bad luck. One of our customers watched this got super paranoid about the X1 that we sold him. We've been using them for a year, and the only problem we've had so far is the vinyl-clad bed thermistor wires wearing out from flexion. We splice it at both ends with silicone-jacketed wires when it happens.

Does the smaller version Genus have the same issue?

Print that part with nylon bridge Shane

If those are the problems then its not a big deal to me. I can live with those issues and fix them as needed but I did order an extruder arm just to be safe.

Can only find version 4 as latest, version 5?

Mine just broke today! It really is a weak part of the Artillery X and they haven't even included a spare part in my case!

Please stop posting that link to Amazon for the idler arm that supposedly will fit the Artillery Sidewinder. I ordered it and it does not fit. The hole in the arm below the bearing is smaller than the metal rod it is suppose to fit over. I had to send it back, so now I guess I'll have to contact Artillery and ask for a new idler arm.

Mine works fine

Hello , where can I buy the nozzle for this 3d printer ? 0,6 mm

Ribbon flat cables are not designed for moving parts. We used them in micro hifi systems linking static breakout boards when I worked as Audio R&D Engineer back then. You are right when you say by design, this is a problem.

Every third post in FB group is not about the idler arm, it's a stupid post asking for printer profiles. So annoying. The remaining posts are pretty much pictures of Groot or Yoda prints. The faults you speak of are easy fixes for anyone with a modicum of intelligence.

Can any one tell me where I can buy a genuine artillery sw X1 v4 urgently?

It shouldn't come with a second, I am with you

The idler arm is not an issue with this printer specifically. Almost every Titan clone has the exact same piece of plastic which will snap if you pull the arm too hard. That’s why I upgraded to a bondtech clone

Maybe you got a manday made maskin, bc I had have one x1 for a while now and I had just minor isues. maybe I got a god one. :)

Is there a single affordable printer on the market that you _don't_ need to mod for it to work reliably? I don't want to have to fix anything.

Are all extruders universal???

Got a SW X1, you don't need to touch the plastic arm to fill filament in, never had issues with cables, but nobody has the same story right ? Most people push the arm like a lever, it's wrong way to use it, mostly you don't touch it and it goes perfect using the machine options to fill in and out... With the cables, well, you were unlucky, bad day ^^

Your getting alot of criticism in the comments. Chep highlighted the same issues as you too. Maybe they haven't seen his review. Thanks for showing the gluegun tip too. I'll be doing that when mine arrives.

1) There is no version five. 2) Changing nozzles at only 230° guarantees you are going to have a leak before long, then you'll blame that on Artillery. 3) When changing filament, use the thumbwheel rather than hulking out on the idler arm. 4) You put a link to the wrong PCB. 5) You recommend a bunch of "fixes" before testing them. 6) The idler and ribbon cable designs can be improved, but you blow the problem all out of proportion. Confirmation bias is when you have a problem and you only register those who have the same problem. Searching through FB posts, I counted 16 people who reported broken idler arms, and about as many who replaced them out of fear that they could break. That is a tiny percentage of all the printers that Artillery has sold. And since you came late to the Artillery game, maybe you did not realize that there is a version 4 because Artillery has improved the design whenever flaws were uncovered. Is there a version 4 Ender 3, CR10, or any other cheap Chinese printer? You have some valid concerns, but calling the machine a piece of crap and dissing people like Angus Deveson and Devon Monte for recommending is not right.

Has it changed, is the product worth it nowadays?

Хороший ты мужик, привет из России.

`Buying a machine and knowing that within a week.....blablablagh... Sorry, I think you made a great point with the idler, and also with the ribbon cable, but don't talk like the printer is the biggest piece of crap in the world, as that is just not true. I have a couple of them running almost daily, and I have not had 1 problem with them. I don't even use the Idler, as I remove and feed the filament from within the menu and this works fine. I think when I compare the quality of the prints from this printer to that of the JGAurora A5, the Anycubic's, the Prusa MK2 and MK3, this printer nails it, by far. Yes, you might have to put a drip of hot glue on the ribbons, that's a very good solution you give there. But hey, big deal. bring it that way, without the whole disaster story.

That doesn't look like a v4 as I can't see the reset button next to the screen panel.

Have to get a bit suspicious when there's exclusively positive reviews so this was refreshing.

I'm completely agrre. The printer machine works really good. But, it comes with a lot of little issues. By my part. I had this printer like one moth ago. In one month, y had a problem with the wires of Z motor, they come almost broken. The cooler started to make noise. I had a problem also with the printed pieces that I tried to make. Looks like an obstruction. I change the pieces of the extruder and it started to work fine untill I tried to make a piece with some altitude. And an obstruction again, probably because a problem of the motor cause it is impossible to have again an obstruction so quick. The people that have this machine are in general happy, maybe the mine one is a defective one. But to many problems in just one month of use.

so salty over a couple pretty small issues with extremely easy fixes. you really shouldn't wiggle or mess with ribbon cables that carry electricity while the machine is on .

Thank you for spitting out some truth!

Do you have a update discord link ?

Why is your printer so crooked?

Seriously having a few quirks on a printer makes you investigate and learn more about 3d printing then you get the satisfaction of printing your first real world practical things that you can add to your printer to make it a better more reliable printer. No matter how you look at it 3d printing is not a plug and play hobby, bed and nozzle temperatures, material types, layer heights, supports. If your concerned about printing a few parts then and your not willing to learn a little then 3d printing is not for you it's not a star trek replicator. My first printer was a flashforge creator pro and I brought that at £500 because I listened someone on a forum talk about how it was better for "beginners" vs something you needed to mod so I ended up with a noisey rattle box with a build plate the size of a postage stamp that I still had to print parts fo!. When it comes to 3D printers beginners is a very relative term your only as beginner as you want to be. I have the sidewinder v4 and I love it compared to my creator pro. In fact I've just ordered a second one and giving serious consideration to getting a third just in case for some reason the company goes out of business in these turbulent times I'm also stocking up on a few replacement parts that's pretty much the best compliment I could give. Right now the Artillery sidewinder is to the FDM world what the Elegoo Mars/Saturn are to the SLA world. Now all they need to do is bring out a big core XY or a large Delta. 3D printing is addictive!!!.

Had it for a year now issues

In regards to the idle lever breaking, here's some advice I got from another X1 user: *"When you get it from the factory, loosen it all the way and then tighten it till you can’t pull the filament out anymore. The issue is that people fail to do this and it’s too tight and breaks."*

Thank you i nearly brought one wish creality cr10 s5 was direct drive

I clicked on this video to see if there were some things I could improve on my printer that maybe I hadn’t already easily printed and installed. But instead it’s literally just you bashing on this awesome printer...

so in conclusion you dont know how to use ribbon cables, theres no reason they should be pulled on but in the unlikley event that they are or something gets caught or whatever itd by WAY preferable that it just disconnects rather than damaging the cable and/or board its connected to, the original models had them but they got removed, cost might of been the reason but as far as i see it its an improvement

Question, since this uses an E3D Titan clone why not just order an original Titan idler arm from E3D? They're only like $10 US. Or is there a reason it won't fit? It would certainly be more reliable and durable than the Asian knockoff. Overall your's is not a bad video about these issues but its hard to understand what you're trying to say. You say its "a pretty fantastic machine" but you recommend people not to buy it. I need a second machine and after lots and lots of research I think its going to be this one. In my opinion its strengths outweigh the faults. Any printer with these features that is under $500 is going to have some issues. My concern is finding something with a strong foundation that has room for some upgrades and modifications.

thankyou!! I'm so tired if all these facebook bandwagoners trying to say dont change anything it's perfect from the factory lol if I lined up 10 printers they probably couldnt tell me what one is good or bad

My printer is stock going 2 years strong, especially with no idler arm breaks. Need to be gentle 😉

They sell a metal replacement and it's much better it's only $20 on Amazon

im watching this after ordering mine :(

Sooo... He broke it not paying attention.... There is no V5.... I will say the heat break is crap though.

Shane you’re so dead on. I got this printer and it had all the issues you mentioned. I got pissed and rebuilt mine. You didn’t even mention the other big issue. The MKS GEN L clone board is junk, the screen is junk and they both have major issues. 1. You can’t save to eprom, 2. It’s 8 bit, 3. All the wiring for the screen is mismatched cable ends to the wrong plugs and is hot glued together. I replaced my board and screen with a Duet 2 WiFi and Panel Due... the hotend and extruder are both completely garbage. A PTFE lined Volcano? Lol. The Titan Aero is cheap and works fine, but the tension arm is crap, the job gear is crappy, the PTFE tube they send with it is garbage, oh... and the Pancake Motor, yeah it has a press fit PLASTIC drive gear on it. I replaced mine with a genuine Bondtech BMG-M and Slice Mosquito. I also added a EZABL. Even with all that, it still doesn’t print super good because of the Z leadscrews and the brass nuts are goofy and cause z banding. I took my belt off, and removed their leadscrew plastic assembly. It’s way better albeit not perfect. I’m glad you called a spade a spade. This printer is good for most people. But for heavy or professional use it’s not.

I think this 2 isues are bad but yuo can solved...anyway for that money and quality yuo must excpect some isues..and for yuo new in the 3d printing world: if yuo have this machine , put some hot glue and buy the metal idler.Problem solved.Great Prints, after all

Your "review" or troubleshoot video for the SWX1 is kinda criticism on a very high level. This is a printer for 400$ or less. What do you expect? A part, that can break after 200+ hours? No problem, just print a new one... The fried pin? Rather not a "normal" failure, every product has some problems sometimes. I don't know what the hell brought you to do this "review", problems out of the box? What is the difference if you buy this thing for 400 and upgrade some parts or if you buy the printer for 500$ from the factory?

​Fugatech 3D Printing said: "I wouldn't have made this video if I was the only one having this issue. Many don't have issues but going through the FB group, many have the exact same issues I have. " Fugatech 3D Printing That mean you never was on other 3D printers FB groups or other places, becouse every one have some problems, just like Don Gray said to you. I think you have some reason on personal level giving to all rest of us viewers bad opinion about Artillery printing. I have TRONXY printer and had much more problems then you had with this one, but I taking that for normal, becouse nobody force me to buy printer for 200$ instead almoust perfect Prusa for 1.000$. You can't even compare Prusa directly with Sidwinder becouse Prusa don't have some features which Sidewinder have. And acording that, if Prusa will make printer to be at same feature range like Sidewinder, it will cost about 1.500$+ and THEN you can complain about lever and other minor things ( which you get spare one with Sidewinder for free). Your review just make me closer to buying Sidewinder becouse if you find just that problems on that lovely machine, it is a winner for me. Also, thank you, I will buy alloy lever same moment I will buy Sidevinder X1 ( next week)

Why don't they just fix the small issues, they are almost effortless to fix. Perhaps they don't read English that much. One thing worth notice is that there are very few people even heard of this brand in China. My guess is that [Don't read English]+[No user base in China]=. Perhaps nowadays this company still believes that every design on this printer works fine.

You are posting this in 2020... * Idler: problem is fixed from factory in current versions. Of course they CAN break and wear as they are consumable items though, but normally they will last long * ribbon: problem is fixed from factory with newer boards so that more wires are used. Of course there are still some older ones out there but new orders should get the updated ones without problems. Just order directly from factory though. And: the first ones did not have these problems with the idlers and also not the ribbons, just got there in later changes. About the subboard: don't just replace ONE but you need to replace both or you will just get problems with the ribbon-cables, probably even more then first. The latest versions are different.

too much bla... you don't need to push this lever anyways... so how could it break LoL i go for a channel who doesn't only print dust catchers...

Wait, someone that doesn't know the lever doesn't ever have to be touched is giving recommendations exclaiming "Watch this before buying the Artillery Sidewinder X1!!" Notice it comes complete with TWO (count'em, TWO) exclamation marks!! Pathetic.

Sounds to me that you are a heavy handed cave man who is never happy with anything unless you have broken it and then made it better. Thousands of these sold all over the world without people replacing, modifying or upgrading any parts at all. Its a very delicate precise piece of machinery. Like any other printer. It not a car! OK rant over 😆

17 min of whining... It is a DIY kit , why didn't you see this? Oh, because u got it together for like 20min? And did not care for details.. but ofc it would fail. Those are your mistakes

Why even the negative reviews seem positive. What is with the western world holding the hands of these companies. So frustrating. These guys know what they are doing, there is no passion and no consideration. They are faceless entities just slinging junk. No CEO no face. Let us sell a crappy item cheap as possible and see what the westerners are willing to fix. Anyways I am a long time subscriber, and usually do not comment. I just hate these "hey China needs to fix this" when it actually should be.... "these guys suck don't buy it"