Love to hear that! Did you start at video 1?

@@SomewhereInWisconsin yes I did. Ditched paper tuning and followed your idea and IT WORKED!

Awesome! Congrats! Knock em dead this year!

Thanks!

You are welcome. When fine tuning at the end if the rest small rest adjustment doesn't work, try the same adjustment in the opposite direction. Good luck!

Thank you for watching and the compliment. I appreciate it! Good luck this year!

Thanks same to you ..👍

Wisconsin bowhunter1968 that’s because most people don’t properly tune their setup. Squaring up the bow and putting it in spec is the easy part. Tuning properly spined arrows to the bow isn’t quite as easy and it’s time consuming. Once it’s done, fixed blades fly every bit as good as field points.

No way! Thank you so much man! Means a lot!

Straight up best tuning video

Thanks. Make sure you check out the previous videos!

Thanks for checking it out!

You are welcome! Hope you can check out some of the other stuff on the channel. Thanks for watching!

Thank you sir. See first (pinned) comment if you are having issues.

Thanks for checking it out. However there were two videos prior to this one on modified French tuning, and one on walk-back tuning. That's why the broadheads hit where they hit in this video. Sometimes I need some vertical adjustments to my rest, sometimes I don't once I get to this point in broadhead tuning. Check out video one and video two.

Could I kill a deer at 60+ yards? No doubt. Do I want to? Not a chance. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@SomewhereInWisconsin i have shot a deer in michigan with revolver crossbow shotgun and rifle bows are brand new to me and im addicted i got a brand new out the box but 2 year old bowtech carbon icon for 500$ put a smackdown limb driver trophy ridge hotwire dead center v2 stabilizer and vforce elite arrows and have ruined 3 arrows with one shot at 30 yards am pleased with my set up

@@wesmonahan4372 same boat here man. Im addicted. I got a new hoyt torrex, and I can shoot solid out to 60-ish yards (soccer ball size groups) but I plan to shoot my elk and antelope under 30 if I can. 40 would be absolute max with no wyoming wind lol.

Thank you Greg!

Great question. The methods in these three videos are great for ANYONE to use. Kind of a beginner guide for someone who doesnt have as much knowledge or a cam system similar to the old Elites and Bowtechs. Bareshaft tuning takes a little more knowledge and possibly a press, draw board, and other archery tools besides an allen wrench. If you have the tools and knowledge, I'd bareshaft tune. Then check broadheads and broadhead tune IF needed after that.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin Great. Thanks. One more thing, I can't tell which way you're pointing your index vein when you're nocking your arrow before shooting. It looks like you have the same launching rest like I do. Some Research says to point the index vein fletching down when using a launching drop rest. Another Research says to point the index vein fletching up. Some others say to point the index fletching away from the riser. I ran a test by spray white powder on my fletchings and nocked my arrow in all 3 ways. Shot an arrow with index vein pointed away from riser, index vein pointed up and index vein pointed down. It looks like my fletchings made contact with my rubber arrow holder in front of my rest when I had the index vein pointed away from the riser and when I had it pointed down. When I shot with the index vein pointed up, no contact was made so is that the correct way I should nock my arrow or which was should your arrow fletchings face?

@@bobbydenezza7795 the correct way is whatever way the arrows make zero contact! I usually shoot vanes that are all the same color.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin thanks

Only one broadhead. 2 field points.

Ha! No way!

Thanks. Off handedly I don't recall the exact weight, but they are 350s, with a 50 grain insert and 100 grain tips. Probably between 420 and 440 if I had to guess.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin The last 3 years I have been investing alot of time making arrows from scratch. If u start from a clean foundation by the time u start shooting u will cut down greatly all the outliers. Someone that was more into hiking & fishing asked me a year ago about bowhunting. I told him u need to learn to be a good archer & have confidence b4 u become a bowhunter. I started out as a trapper & duck hunter. I simplified things when I noticed that I understood deer better. It wasn't as random with deer. I've been tweeking things over recent years & I have come to a conclusion. All I care about is what happens @ the point of impact. The closer the better. What I didn't expect is that with modern technology u r far better off shooting a deer like a guy with a shotgun does. I'm talking about quartering to where your maximum energy is upon impact on the front of the shoulder on a deer & exiting slightly lower behind the farside front shoulder. Kills them close quicker than a spine shot which I wouldn't never take. The setup is heavier inserts & broadheads on a micro arrow which is 300 spine even though I'm only shooting with 63 lbs. @ the max. Great arrow flight is the key. I build 6 @ a time & I'm currently working on putting precision match weight Firenocks into my system. I'm doing this right now on 2 different micro arrows. Only 3 will be lighted nocks. The other 12 will be identical in weight except they don't have the lighted function. I have never shot lighted nocks but for video purposes I will be in 2021. My 520+ grain arrows r giving me tighter groups where I don't have stray right or left shots. My sight setup is very open & it helps me w/o a rangefinder to know where I have to aim to hit my target.

Hey Cam, if you walk back tune at say 60-80 yards you rarely have to actually move your rest left/right. If you only walk back tune to say 40 yards, your walkback may not be precise enough, so when you broadhead tune it becomes a bit more precise. Now, if your BH and FP never come together, but just move over, try going back to center with your rest and make those small rest adjustments in the opposite direction. That will usually bring them together. Let me know if that makes sense.

Yes, go back to center. Then try and move the rest the other way. I have had luck going the way I described in the video for very small movements, but others say to move in the opposite direction. Let me know if that works!

Sometimes yes, other times it will bring them closer together if it doesn't bring them together, try and bump the rest a little in the opposite direction.

I only tune with one. But, that's because the Slick Tricks fly pretty true.

Hey Kolt, did your FP and Broadhead move closer together? If so, give another tiny bump on the rest in the same direction. Another option, is to bump your rest slightly left (instead of right) and see if that brings both together. I have had success doing it the way I describe in the vid, but others have done the opposite and also had success.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin Hi thank you for your response! It did not bring my points and broadheads together, it seemed my broadhead was 2-3 inches left to begin with, and after my adjustment it just moved everything over 2-3" to the right. It didnt actually bring anything closer together. But i will give that a shot! Thanks

@@kolt3273 try to bump it back to starting point, then go a smidge in the opposite direction.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin I took your advice, brought it back to starting position, gave it a nudge left, and now everything flies together, thanks so much for your help!

@@kolt3273 Awesome! I am so glad that worked out! Shoot straight, good luck this year.

Hey. For this video I used my Canon SL2 (DSLR), with an 18-135mm lens.

You very well could be. I always broadhead tune a a little farther than I'm willing to shoot at a live animal.

Hard to say. I shoot a 3 Fletch arrow and a 4 blade head. I know plenty of guys that line em up, and I know plenty more that screw them on and shoot. Personal preference and confidence.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin It's not so much about lining up the blades with the vanes. It IS, however, very important to make sure each broadhead is identically oriented on each arrow so that when the arrows come off the bow, each broadhead catches the air the same. If you subscribe to the theory (and I do) that the blades steer the front of the arrow, then you want each arrow being "steered" identically.

Russell Langworthy if you’re shooting a weak spined arrow, I agree with you. Move up to a stiffer spined high foc arrow and tune it to your bow. You’ll see that issue go away.

A bunch of tightly wrapped plastic.

@@SomewhereInWisconsin hell yeah, thanks for the reply brother! guess ill start finding and saving some plastic up. already lost about 4 arrows to the grass and tired of it haha

I have had success doing both in tiny increments. If you do the modified French tune and then walk back, you may not need to adjust anything. I misspoke in this video, (I think I pinned a comment). So try what the other guy suggested, but if it doesn't work, don't be afraid to try the other way as well.

Interesting. I'll have to take a look at it and test it out. I wonder if it's an optical illusion as the arrow gets into focus?

@@SomewhereInWisconsin kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pN6GkpRizKzed6M.html It definitely changes direction mid flight. Check this video out. Been doing it this way for years and it does add a touch more forgiveness 👍

Walk back? Set your pin at 20. Shoot a group. Leave it at 20, and walk back ton40 and 50 and shoot a group.

Paper tuning is a starting point, as I stated in the first video of the series.

That's a Rinehart 18-1

That time if year, they are. Luckily we have had some frosts, so they are pretty much done for the year.

Somewhere In Wisconsin yeah I saw that. What part of Wisconsin are you in?

@@Nick1-22 I live in SE WI.

Somewhere In Wisconsin nice. My cousins live in clintonville about 45 minutes from greenbay

Watch this vid at 2:40. Exactly how I explain it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oreBocZixt7eaYk.html Or this Easton Tuning Guide. images.app.goo.gl/xBDvqrqecMpNY8uG6

Some bows are opposite , for me a Mathews is opposite to my xpedition.... No idea why, but it is...

@Boxing 101 Do you really need to be so rude? You can be polite and still make your point. Being polite, people will take you more seriously. Ok, now bash me, right?

@Boxing 101 Thanks for the commentary. You seem like a real expert. Hope we cross paths someday. You can set me straight about how not to be a princess.

You are correct!

I didn't say you shouldn't. I said I won't. I'm a solid shot and shoot year round. And could definitely kill a deer at 60+. I just dont feel a need to shoot that far personally. At a deer.