Thanks for the compliment. I am rebuilding our website with Dreamweaver and I will be adding more of her paintings then. I haven’t done any serious web development for 25 years so I have to ramp up those software skills. lol With regard to the resin, not all resins are equal. The resin I was using for this video was a shallow pour resin (no deeper than 1/4 inch) typically used for making jewellery, and the Epoxy had a higher density and viscosity than the hardener so the Epoxy settles to the bottom. I was also mixing a small amount. For deep pour resins (rated for various depths) the density and viscosity of the Epoxy and the hardener can be very similar so the Epoxy will start to mix with the hardener as you pour in the Epoxy, so using the cup method for measuring does not work. There are also Epoxy resins that use a 2:1 ratio, and there are Epoxy resins where they use weight of each component as the measurement. An accurate way to measure the volume you need is to pour dry rise into the area where you plan to put the Epoxy resin, and then split the rise up according to the measurement used for the type of resin you are using. I split the rice by weight which is very accurate. Either 1:1 or 2:1 (2/3 Epoxy, 1/3 hardener). Epoxy resin where it is measured by weight can be done in one container by using the ratios the manufacturer recommends. Fluid ounces are a measure of volume for a fluid but the density of the fluids have to be the same which is usually not the case for Epoxy resin. When you are mixing a large volume of Epoxy resin you can trap a lot of air in the Epoxy and the Epoxy will settle as the air comes out, which affects the mix ratio. That is were the rice benefits. You can put a mark on your container at the height of the volume of rice for the hardener, and then another mark on the container for the full volume of rice which includes both the hardener and Epoxy. When I worked in the aerospace industry I was taught to always put the hardener in the container first and then add the Epoxy pouring it through the hardener. That way the Epoxy can never make contact with the sides of the container before making contact with the hardener. That is when you get issues with a a sticky mix. I have never had a bad batch due to mixing. For large volumes you probable will want to use a mixing paddle on a drill. The faster you run your drill the more air that will be incorporated into the mix by forming a cavity behind the paddle. I prefer a thinner paddle rather than a thick flat one. I still mix until the resin becomes clear. I find that deep pour resins have a much lower viscosity and take longer to set which provides more time for the bubbles to rise to the surface so you can pop them. You will also find that you can reduce air bubbles by sealing your wood with a coating or two of Epoxy resin before doing your pour. Wood is filled with air pockets and they are a royal pain to seal to prevent bubbles. As an artist I am sure you are aware of various additives like Pebeo, mica powders, chameleon powders and the like. Avoid oil and water based additives. I would recommend doing some testing before doing a big pour. You can also add things like stone, beads, glass, toys, figurines, and mirrors to the resin. I need to finish my latest video so I can show the variety of techniques I use. Good luck and have fun.

Oh man thank you for that i did not even consider all of that. i will be researching as my epoxy is a 2 /1 mix. i will def pour the resin in to the hardener tho. Thanks again for incite. i hope to make beautiful wooden things like you in the future!@@liz-artcreations6633

Brilliant cup measuring, I was going to go all out with crazy cups , so excited.

Thanks for the comment regarding the bowl. I have to admit that using epoxy resin compared to other products is far more time consuming. It takes at least a week to apply the finishes because I have to wait for each coat to cure. That said you can get some amazing chatoyancy using resin, especially in sap wood. Also epoxy adds more strength and waterproofs better than any other product I know of. I like to use it on my live edge bowls because it strengthens and seals the bark. I can also control my finish through sanding so I can go from an extreme high gloss to a soft matt finish. In answer to your questions: - I can’t speak for all resins because there are so many on the market. My preference is to mix using a single cup and putting a mark on it after putting in the hardener and then adding the epoxy. This only works when there are equal parts of resin and hardener. This method doesn’t work if the hardener to epoxy ratios are different. Some resins are mixed by weight. For that I use a digital scale, and I put a silicone sheet on it to protect it from spills. I zero the scale with the silicone sheet and whatever cup I use before adding hardener. I always add hardener first and then pour the epoxy into the centre of the hardener. This ensures the epoxy makes contact with the hardener before touching the sides of the cup. Using the scale I record the weight of the hardener, and then add the appropriate amount of epoxy according to the manufacturers instructions. When mixing using the resin I purchase I look for clarity to determine when it has mixed properly. I can’t say this works with every resin but it has worked with the ones I have tried. - I built my own rotisserie system using a barbecue motor. My system uses a 1” steel shaft and a couple of bearings to support the weight. I made an adaptor to attach the motor to the steel shaft. This takes the load off of the motor. I have made an assortment of mounts that go on the end of the steel shaft. I used resin to make a threaded mount that I can mount my chucks on. (Finding a 1-1/4” 8tpi die wasn’t easy), I have an assortment of bolts that thread into the shaft so I can mount my woodturning at different stages of a turning. I also welded up a two jaw system that I can mount on the shaft which allows me to free up my chuck. The jaws fit into the recess where I mount my turnings. - I typically use a tapered recess on my turnings. The taper provides a wider base which adds more stability. The last step of my turning is to apply my label using resin in the recess that I use to mount the bowl on the lathe. I created a video on how I apply my labels called “Creating and Applying Laser Quality Labels”. - I use food safe epoxy resin on my bowls which makes them more waterproof and chemically resistant than most other finishes but it is not a high temperature resin so I wouldn’t use it on anything where a hot food or beverage will be used. As a rule of thumb resins start to soften around 140°F. If you plan to use resin where heat is involved, such as a coffee mug, make sure you are using a high temperature food safe resin. I have never created coffee mugs so I can’t recommend an epoxy resin for them. I hope this answers your questions. Sorry for the long answer. 😊

@@liz-artcreations6633 Wow. Thanks for you really great reply. Lots of good information here. Jim. Montana Wood Art.

I am not familiar with the specific brand you mentioned but I am using a table top resin in this video so it isn’t designed for thick pours or moulds. My wife uses this resin in her paintings on canvas and it looks great. Things to take into account: - Work on a level surface. -Use disposable brushes that have straight bristles, no fuzzy tips that tend to add bubbles. Hopefully you find a brand that doesn’t lose bristles. - If your resin is designed to flow and self level you will have to watch it for a long time because they can flow for hours. You may have to control the flow. - Once the resin starts to thicken do not overwork it. You can create problems that are hard to fix. You might be able to buy a little extra working time by heating the resin a little with a small torch. - Use a small torch to pop bubbles but maintain a safe distance. Do not overheat the resin. Quick passes are all that is required. From what I have read it is the carbon dioxide produced by the flame that causes the bubbles to pop. I have also popped bubbles with my breath. I am just not as full of hot air as the torch. Contrary to some people’s opinion. 😁 - If you are applying a second coat a light sanding provides bite for the second coat by creating a rough surface that increases the bonding strength of the resin. My wife has made water scenes by applying acrylic inks and powders to the resin to add colour. She has also used it to coat a variety of things that adds dimension to her art. I hope this helps. The reason I apply three coats of resin is because I am applying the resin to wood. Wood is porous and it does absorb the resin. It also releases lots of bubbles. One of the biggest problems with wood is that it’s moisture content is always changing due to changes in humidity. Dry wood will shrink and, depending on the grain direction, it has the potential to crack. Drying wood to eliminate cracks is a science of its own. Drying wood slowly reduces the risk of it cracking. Some wood turners let their wood dry for years. If you ever wonder why natural hand turned wooden items like bowls are not cheep, it not only relates to the skills of the wood turner but also to their drying skills and to the amount of time it takes to dry wood properly. There is a cost to storing wood. Chainsaw carvers will cut a slot in the back of their carvings to provide a relief point to compensate for shrinkage. By applying multiple coats I am locking, or should I say slowing down the rate that the wood dries. Epoxy resin is the best wood finish I know of to seal the wood and protect it from moisture. Epoxy resin also has tremendous protection from a variety of chemicals. The resin also adds strength to the object, and the multiple coats increases the strength. The down side is it takes anywhere from one to too weeks for me to make something because I have to let the resin cure 24 hours between each sanding and coating. 3 coats outside, 3 coats inside, and three coats to apply my label. Hopefully this answers all of your questions adequately. 😊

When it comes to woodturning I typically create the bowl, vase, or a unique piece and then sell them either in galleries or through our website. Wood has to dry to an acceptable level before I can finish the creation which makes it difficult to do commissioned work unless the client is willing to wait. I do custom sandcarving in 12” granite tiles accommodating clients wishes and for time capsules which can be ordered through our website. LizArtCreations.com Sandcarving is carving photos and/or text into granite or glass using sandblasting. If you are referring to my wife’s paintings she has done commissioned work. If you contact us through our website I will contact you and we can discuss what you are looking for.

I use the high gloss crystal clear East Coast Resin that I purchase through Amazon. It is UV, scratch, and water resistant and it is safe to make contact with food once it has fully cured. I use it on my wooden bowls because it adds strength to the wood and epoxy has the highest resistance to water of any of the finishes I know . Since it is food safe I don’t have to worry about food allergies. I have used this resin to cover wooden bowls, make resin bowls (the thick areas [6”] on the bottom of the bowl did have an amber colour) , make jewelry, and repair a variety of items using this resin. I have seen reviews online of 10 different resins and east Coast resin had excellent reviews. The only characteristic that didn’t have a high rating was that it had a tendency to form bubbles. The method I show in the video pretty much eliminates the bubbles. It is how I was taught to mix resins and adhesives when I worked in the aerospace industry. I have also seen reviews on its UV resistance and it rated in the top third for resistance to turning an amber colour. I hope this helps.

@@liz-artcreations6633 can you please share the link when I search I find too many different products for resin. Thanks in advance

@@iumer For this video I used East Coast Resin that I buy through Amazon. It is an epoxy resin designed for thin pours to cover table tops. If I find a resin I think I would like to try I do an online search for reviews and I also make sure it either is available in my country or ships to my country. I hope this helps.

I do not clean my brushes. I use the cheapest polyester brushes I can find. Our local dollar type store sells them in packages of four for $1.25 so spending time cleaning them really isn’t worth the effort. Once the resin has cured I pull the brush out of the feral on the handle and then give the brush to my wife, who is an artist, and she uses them for texturing in her paintings. I use a fresh brush each time I apply the resin so I have lots of brushes that I give to all of my wife’s artist friends. When it comes to the type of brush I always use a synthetic brush that has a straight bristle. I do not use natural brushes made from hair, or brushes that have feathered ends because they add air bubbles when I am applying the resin. The solvents I used when I worked in aerospace would thin resin but they would likely do damage to synthetic brushes and they required special handling requirements. Save your self the effort and buy the cheapest straight bristled polyester brush you can find. In order to use up my resin coated brushes I was thinking of using them in a resin bowl. If you come up with a good use for them please let me know.