Thanks! Glad you found it helpful :)

I agree

Me too

Thanks :)

Denatured alcohol?

​@@chrisfarnum3308no, isopropyl. Avoid the temptation to over spray, it could puddle

I usually just warm the whole bottle and pour what I need, but I also keep the bulk of my resin separate. Usually it's the hardener that's more prone to yellowing and important to keep at a stable temp so I havent had it cause any issues

Oh it was just a random experiment I was doing at the same time. It's dyed dried leaves and I was seeing if they would leech the dye or not

It's isopropyl alcohol put into a spray bottle (bought separately) . Mine is a sushi spray bottle from Daiso but anything that can mist finely will work. The higher the percentage of alcohol the better too

For dice you generally need to use one of the methods that actually remove the bubbles (vacuum, ultrasonic, pressure pot). They're enclosed so the tiny bubbles rise to the top when they're curing otherwise and get stuck (even without the mica, it just makes it harder to see what's going on). Dice are definitely one of the harder things to get bubble free

I haven't tried with silicone, I suspect it might be a bit thick but it could be worth experimenting with! Otherwise a good way to do silicone without a vacuum pump is to buy a slow setting one and then place it in the fridge for part of the cure time (best to keep it in a box to contain any fumes). It slows the cure down so the bubbles can rise out before it sets :)

I havent tried it, but I suspect it might do the same thing as vacuum chambers and pull air/oils from the silicone and make it worse

@@LamellaCreations worse? Worse than what?

@@PAndrew002 Worse than not doing it. It ends up with tiny bubbles on all the inside surfaces

Uck. Now, I have to try this!

If they're there when you're pouring the resin in you can coax them out with a toothpick or similar (just be careful not to scratch the mould). If they only appear after a while that can be from a very low quality mould and the bubbles are leeching out from the silicone. Not much you can do about the second one but use different moulds

Would it be worthwhile to try the alcohol spray trick? Actually, what I did was take a silicone baby food spoon, dip it in a container with alcohol, shake off the extra alcohol back into the cup, and then dip the very lightly coated spoon onto the top bubbles in the mold, including corners. It pops the bubbles, but also using the spoon helps you direct the alcohol a little bit better to the bubbles you really want to pop.

I haven't used one, but I think it'd take a bit longer to warm it since the heat is only coming from the bottom. It could definitely work if you have smallish bottles of resin though :) I've also seen people say they place it near a heater as another alternative. If you're worried about water I'd suggest using a tallish container for it, that way the bottle can't tip over when it's getting low so there's no risk of getting water in your resin. You can mark how high to pour the water after the first time so that you know it won't go too close to the cap. Another alternative is some people place the bottles in ziplock bags before putting them in water. It all just comes down to preference in the end and what works best for your setup :)

I attempted to use a wax warmer once. It resulted in the bottom of the resin setting up while the top was still liquid.

@@Jetblastjoe same I wish I had found this video first! I've also used a heat gun for too long and had the same effect 😅🤦🏻‍♀️ I'm also just coming to the understanding I'll prob have to sand and reseal some pieces but that's okay I still love resin art!

It will need to stay in until the resin is cured :)

I'm in NZ so only have experience with local brands, in general though just look for one with a longer curing time (2-3 days, or even longer for very deep pours)

As long as you're making things that are small enough, a pressure pot is definitely the most reliable to avoid bubbles

Yeah I tried vaguely but it didn't seem to help. Some people say it does but other methods are probably better

Robert Tolone did a video on vibration a few weeks ago kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7Kgd8552ZfLiWw.html

Nah, some of the things could help but others don't work for it

I don't have a pressure pot unfortunately because I don't have anywhere that I feel safe leaving it. If I was going to get one I'd personally go for a slightly higher quality one (not the cheap harbour freight ones)

@@LamellaCreations thank you 😊

Artresin is a coating resin so it's best to torch after you've poured it over the artwork (as lighters/torches only work on surface bubbles). If you're wanting to use it as a casting resin you would need to use a pressure pot as it's an extremely thick resin, although warming it beforehand would help a small amount too

It depends where you live as to what will be available :) In general if you look for a slower setting one it's often also thinner, or you can check the technical data sheet (TDS) of a resin you're interested in to find the viscosity

@@LamellaCreations ok thanks

Alcohol spray can work for either, personally I'd go for a lighter/torch for canvas art and alcohol spray for moulds

For a pressure pot you should pour the resin into the mould and then place the mould into the pot until it's cured. The pot should mostly hold its pressure so you wont need to keep the compressor going or anything :)

@@LamellaCreations What if mould it too big to fit inside the pressure pot? Can you just put the resin to make the bubbles small and then take it out and pour it on the mould to cure? If you can then how long should the resin be left inside.

@@knight3131 Unfortunately not, the resin needs to be under pressure while it cures because otherwise the bubbles just expand again. If it doesn't fit then you'll need to use other methods to control the bubbles, a vacuum chamber might work for your use because that actually removes the bubbles :)

Hiya, yeah you have to be careful not to overheat it if it's a fast setting resin. I'd try heating it a little less hot (and only heating the resin, not the hardener). Another thing that can affect it is the amount being mixed and the shape of the container, because overheating can happen even without warming it before. Mixing smaller amounts will make it less likely to overheat, and using a wider container to mix in so that there's more surface area for heat to dissipate :)

It's isopropyl alcohol that I just poured into a spray bottle that I got from a dollar store. It's also called rubbing alcohol some places (though I think some rubbing alcohols are ethanol instead- unsure whether ethanol based ones also work)

A pressure pot would fix that problem, or get a deep pour resin as they're generally thinner

Hi, it depends on what sort of resin you're using and how big the thing is that you're making. UV resin in particular is very brittle and likely to break, but epoxy can also become brittle if something goes wrong with the curing process (e.g. if you pour past the maximum depth for your resin and it overheats).

Can be several causes: -Very low quality silicone moulds can create bubbles after pouring on the surface of the moulds -Putting porous things like paper, wood etc. that release bubbles into the resin -If there are large oddly shaped bubbles the resin likely got too hot and boiled

@@LamellaCreations thanks 🙏💕

You can pour when it's warm with no problem. Just be careful that the resin itself doesn't get too hot as it can cause a flash cure :)

@@LamellaCreations Hello Lamella Creations, I thank you for answering me, it's very nice of you. Indeed, your advice will be very precious to me, among other things to avoid the formation of bubbles in my resin, because I have never worked with resin before. I will certainly have several other questions to ask you if you allow me? One of them would be; Could you tell me at what temperature I can heat my resin before pouring it in the silicone mold I made? My second question is; Can I use a syringe to introduce the resin into my silicone mold without the risk of infiltrating air into my mold? If you are interested, let me give you some details about the work I am doing. I modeled in 3D a miniature car at 1/64 scale and I made it printed in 3D, but to be able to realize the transparent windshield I cannot count on the technology of the 3D printing because this last one is not still able to realize totally transparent parts at best it is able to realize translucent parts, but that is not appropriate to realize windows. My alternative is to model the windshield in 3D then to print it in 3D and to use this windshield as a print to be able to realize a silicone mold in which I would pour then transparent and liquid resin. I thank you again for answering me and I wish you a nice day. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

@@davidboudier6982 I'm not sure of an exact temperature as I usually just feel it with my hand until it seems right. I aim to use water that is warm, but not uncomfortably hot. I also only warm the resin, not the hardener, and definitely not after it's been mixed. It will also depend on the cure time of your resin, as ones meant for shallow pours may not be able to be heated without causing problems. I tried using a syringe recently and found it made a lot of bubbles, I know other people use them though so it might be a matter of quality and having a large enough one

@@LamellaCreations Hello Lamella, thank you very much for your reply. I wish you an excellent weekend. Sincerely.

When you pour try angling the mould so that you're pouring down the sides of it

Yeah unfortunately youtube doesn't let me fix the sound now that it's uploaded, I have subtitles added if that helps :)

Too bad, this would have been great if it worked.

Yeah it's only really for low viscosity resin unfortunately

Sure as long as you're careful and aren't using a polyester resin. I wouldn't personally use it for any mould based work though

Yeah unfortunately youtube won't let me fix the sound now that it's uploaded :(

What brand resin would you suggest? I've just started doing this and have only been using SigWong casting resin...I get TONS of micro bubbles all throughout

Yeah unfortunately youtube doesn't let me fix it now that it's uploaded :(

Yeah this was my first voice video and I didn't know how to boost volume then, unfortunately youtube doesn't let me fix it now that it's uploaded :(

@@LamellaCreations o no problem

Haha at least you know for next time!