I built my first double 12inch box last week, I wanted to put an 8 inch aero port but the one that I wanted to buy was actually more expensive than all my material put together so I bought an 8 inch pvc pipe which worked out to 80% cheaper. Next step was flaring the pipe which was done easily using a gas stove. Box specs: H - 350mm W - 920mm D - 380mm Took it an SPL car show today and did a 147.4 db's @ 55hz

A few years ago I decided to try my hand at the $150 car audio SPL challenge…. just for fun. I bought four PAC8 8” woofers from PartsExpress for just $8 each and powered by a cheap $99 500 watt subwoofer amp from Walmart. I designed a custom 4th order bandpass box, built it, and then put it into my 2018 KIA Niro. Once it was all wired up I was shocked at the volume and the overall sound quality. After taking it to a local car audio shop to get SPL readings, it hit 135 db at 47 hz! I was VERY surprised, and so was the car audio shop too. I made a series of videos on this on my channel called “Budget Boomin”.

A 30hz capable sub that can happily operate in a hatch at 20-25w? Sounds perfect lol

Everybody likes a cheap build, well done sir! 😊

I love this approach, great stuff. I recently bought a sph-250tc used for 30Euro and followed a similar "building a no compromise enclosure" approach. Fun stuff

The predicted frequency response graph from the modeling software looked like a 6th order, not a 4th. The bandwidth was also what I would expect to see from a 6th order...very interesting. I've never been able to get my 4th order enclosure designs to ever model out like that. On a side note, thanks for making some of the absolute best videos about speakers, home and car audio, enclosures, etc, on all of KZfaq. Very informative and entertaining! Please keep up the great work, Marius. (Sorry if i misspelled your name.😇)

Love the channel man. Would love to see a similar video with a shallow mount sub, what's the best box etc

@AudioJudgement- I was waiting for the max SPL#s. It would be interesting to see how the Db would vary testing forwards in the trunk/boot, seat up, then seat down/ski hole. Then enclosure facing up, then backwards, seat up, seat down/ski hole. Testing @ 25 watts, then 100, then 200 watts, for all tests.

I enjoy every video you make. They're quite instructive.

Make new diy audiophile speaker build! And compare to previous one. Im sure you gain some more knowledge so will be interesting to see and hear what would you change today after 3 years from last build.

Finally new video!

The JBL CX 1200 is impossible to beat at the $40 Black Friday price.

I would put 4 in a sealed box wired in parallel with a 400 watt class D amplifier

people remember if your going to run your stock alternator and cheap electrical amp kits please dont buy crazy RMS subs, Your just going to create more expenses and your not going to give your system full potential

Fb is lower probably because your model didn't take into consideration the damping added to the sealed chamber. For 4th order BP builds, I like to get the sealed chamber right first (using DATs, measure Fb with the driver access panel off, add or remove stuffing until you hit the target Fb for the sim. If you used something like WinISD for the sim, you may find that you actually have to tune a bit higher than Fb to get a level passband, because WinISD doesn't take into consideration factors that impact the woofer's response at higher bass frequencies, like semi-inductance. Finally, if you go with a much larger vent, or more vents, you may find that you have to trim them much shorter than expected to hit a target Fb. The classic equation for determining vent length for a given Fb starts to get more inaccurate at the volume of the vent starts to exceed more than than 10% or so of the volume of the chamber it's in. Something I discovered with my "Enigma" 4th order BP build. BTW, love the idea of using silicone to seal the last panel...!

Nice!!

bro can you tell us how can we desigen and build proper competable box for subwoofer and with other any driver plz

Always enjoy your tutorials. Just curious a to what program that you use to model the subwoofer box.

I use wood glue and there's an easy way to take the back off without ruining the box or the panel. I just put a demo blade on my circular saw and set the blade to 3/4" and cut it out.

permission from Indonesia to come back to study

very good english dar mereu imi dau seama ca esti roman dupa accent :)

Next try the HE-version 😎

Great video! However the test tone seems to clip the mic input (or the youtube compression algorythm).

Salut. Ce freza folosesti si totodata de unde ai achizitionat "ghidajul" pentru taierea cercului 😅?

4:04 Oooff............ 😵‍💫

The box truly is everything, I made a 6th order using a logitech z623, didnt lose that much output, but it goes WAY lower In a wagon, the freq response was about 27-52hz, the listed 2 frequencies are -3db from the peak output, but it was measured using my phone, so it has to be taken with a grain of salt

You’re not building a subwoofer, you’re building a subwoofer system. Don’t understand why people say the are speaker builders when the build enclosures.

Always useful info, thanks.

db is not what you need to have good bass but low frequencies and big ohms

Nice vid. I always wondered how GRS is because the low prices they offer seems to good to be true. Lets see the true power rating on that thing or how mechanically stable it is. Speaking on proper box design, im trying to study the magnitude of box losses. I have a Yamaha sw218v box that are fit in with 2× b&c tbw100 18"s. the panels on that box somewhat flex hard. The frequency response is a rounded slope on the low end 60hz and below. Terrible box for sure. Supposedly according to winisd if i make the box really hard there would be more authority on low end extension. It Would be a good idea to make a video about that. Thin wood vs thick heavy hard wood (ported) I also have another question thats on my mind but can't find a solid answer. Does stuffing a ported box make it closer to a sealed? Because would the stuffing act like box loss and the port loading becomes less effective?