Thank you very much!! :)

Thank you very much! :)

Thank you so much! :)

You are welcome! Have a lot of fun building up the bike for your kid! :)

Schon jetzt viel Spaß mit dem Rahmen, dem Aufbau und dem fertigen Bike - den wirst du auf alle Fälle haben! Hab hier auch noch die Teileliste zum Rad: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18VpkH4FgnmS3lZgQh5a-m_-T9mZoCZHEsGhlc49EWqM/edit?usp=sharing

@@simoneizenhofer856 Cool Dankesehr!!

Thank you, that means a lot! Wishing you a lot of fun with your bike!!! :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 My frame got here but I had a bad surprise with the axles I bought, the thread pitch is not standard sadly. I'm looking at the ZTTO axles you have in your spreadsheet but the sizing is confusing. They don't label them 12*100 and 12*144 but weird numbers instead. Do you remember which models you bought to fit the 696?

@@Carftymk Front Axle is: 12x121LxM12(P1.5)x17 and Rear Axle is: 12x171LxM12(P1.5)x19

@@simoneizenhofer856 Thanks! They fit in just fine. I'm now stuck at the cabling part, the sharp 90° angle under the bottom bracket wont allow the shifter cables to pass, do you have any tips for this? Did you take off the liner plate under?

Thanks Tomasz! Being able to pain the frame you self is an awesome skill! Nice! The SRAM cassette works without any issues with the Shimano derailleur - zero problems with shifting.

Hey Nick, thank you very much! The hubs are just simple 105 hubs and the through axles are from ZTTO - 121mm in the front and 171mm in the back (173mm in the back would be perfect) The End-Caps that came with the hubs just fitted perfect.

Thanks Alan! The 105 Groupset is totally fine for (lighter) gravel - the 105 shifters are technically the same as GRX 600 shifters with a slightly different design. If your rides are more bumpy maybe a GRX 400 or GRX 800 rear derailleur would be a better choice because of the damping clutch mechanism (both would work in combination with the 105 shifters, but weren't available when I built the bike :).

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks for the info!

Thanks man! RAL code for grey is 7047 and black is 9005

Hey Thomas, thank you! Concerning the brake hoses: The "plastic hose" that is already in the frame helps to put the new brake hose through the frame. So yes - I pushed the new brake hose through the guide-hose and removed it afterwards. Only the real brake hose remains in the frame. Concerning the shifting cables: Yes there is only the bare cable inside the frame. The thin plastic hoses in the frame help you to guide the shifting cables through the frame - if you are finished, you should remove them. The black shifting cable outers are only outside of the frame. Hope this helps! Good luck and have much fun with your build!

Those are "Schwalbe Aerothan". They advertise it as lightweight (which it actually is with 61g for a tube) with little rolling resistance and being robust at the same time. I thought i give it a try. I am currently running them at about 40 psi, but got no longer ride experiences yet, so i can't tell what's the perfect pressure.

Hey Ernesto, Thank you very much! The colors are Grey (RAL7047) and Black (RAL9005)

Thanks a lot! There is only the cable for the shifters inside the frame with no housing and the cables are under tension. That's why they won't wobble around inside the frame and won't be able to hit it and rattle. But you are right if you would guide the cables with housing through the frame, they wouldn't be under tension and therefore they could rattle. Same with the brake hose for the rear brake: The hose is not under tension so there is a possibility that it could rattle - luckily mine doesn't but it would be better putting some foam-housing around the hose :)

Hey Darrell, thank you very much - glad I could help a little. I went with the Cane Creek 40 Headset, as I read that some people aren't completely happy with the Carbonda headset. The Cane Creek works flawless so far, but did only about 200k so far, so that doesn't really count :) But reviews on the internet are quite good, so I think it should work for a long time.(Complete Name and Size: Cane Creek 40 Short Cover Complete Headset Tapered - IS42/28.6 | IS52/40)

@@simoneizenhofer856 hi Simon. I just purchased this headset that you listed but it arrived and it doesn't look like your and it is also using a star nut and not a compression style for the carbon fork. I'm afraid to install it. Was yours a star nut?

@@rockleet the headset I used was this one: www.bike24.de/p1116191.html?menu=1000,4,40 The star nut is for aluminium forks only - for the carbon fork you need a compression plug. I bought this one from ritchey: www.bike-components.de/de/Ritchey/WCS-Steuersatzexpander-p21261/ I also bought a different top cap cause I wanted a clean look: www.bike-components.de/de/3min19sec/Ahead-Kappe-p64730/ I hope this will help, even though the links are german.

@@simoneizenhofer856 perfect information! Thank you very much. I will use a compression plug as well.

Hey Timothy! I cut the liner because I was unable to push the shifting cable all the way through in one go. This way I was able to push the shifting cable from the entry at the steering tube down to the bottom bracket - reinsert it at the bottom bracket to the other half of the guiding cable und push it to the rear derailleur. I removed all liners after I routed all shifting cables and brakehoses. Hope that helps :)

Hey Jose, great choice, it's really a nice frame! I did not use any spacers for the bearing cups - just screwed them in without anything. I only used one spacer (I think it was 2mm) on the crank spindle on the drive side (where the chainring is). The goal is, that there is no axial pressure on the bearings after tightening the cranks with about 50 NM. I don't know exactly which spacer is needed, but after tightening everything up they axial play is about 0,5 mm

Thank you very much! Hope you enjoy riding it :) I have a list with the parts used for this build: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18VpkH4FgnmS3lZgQh5a-m_-T9mZoCZHEsGhlc49EWqM/edit#gid=0

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks for the list. Though this creates another question related to my previous one about the 11-36 SRAM cassette. Which 105 cage is needed to shift the biggest ring? Will the medium cage work? I am thinking to reuse the mechnaical 105 groupset from my current 2015 cube crossrace. Thanks in advance for your info cheers David

@@davidalhoff7190 There are two versions of the rear derailleur (Short (SS) and Long (GS)) I am using this version: "Shimano 105 RD-R7000 GS" which officially works for 11-34T. I had to turn the B-Screw have way in to get it shifting flawlessly. I also saw a video of someone using it together with an 11-40T cassette, but I am not sure whether this would work without a wolftooth roadlink. If your bike is from 2015 you will probably have the Shimano 105 RD-5800-GS which is officially usable up to a 32T cassette. I'd say that 34T will probably work, but I'm not sure about 36T or more.

@@simoneizenhofer856 o.k. thanks good point that I will need to check before I commit myself to the build

Hey Christian, vielen Dank für die netten Worte! :) Auf alle Fälle viel Spaß beim bauen und fahren deines Rads! Die Einzugshilfen habe ich entfernt, die sind tatsächlich nur als Hilfe für leichteres Einfädeln gedacht. Der Draht (Schaltzug) ist ohne weitere Hülle im Rahmen - es wird auch keine Hülle benötigt, da dieser ja gespannt ist - Quasi zwischen dem vorderen Anschlagspunkt an dem der Zug in den Rahmen geht bis unter das Tretlager wo er umgelenkt wird. Von dort "schwebt" er wieder bis zum hinteren Anschlagspunkt, an dem der Zug den Rahmen wieder verlässt und in der Schaltzughülle zum Schaltwerk läuft. Ich hoffe das ist nicht zu umständlich erklärt :) Es wäre theoretisch ebenfalls möglich den Schaltzug von vorne bis hinten durchgängig in der Schaltzughülle zu verlegen, dann muss jedoch das Plastikteil vorne am Rahmen getauscht werden. Das hat dann keinen Anschlag mit kleinem Loch, sondern einfach eine große Bohrung durch den der Schaltzug inkl. Hülle durch passt. Beide Varianten funktionieren prima!

No problem, hope I can help :) Unfortunately realigning is needed every time I am swapping the wheels. Even though it only takes about a minute, it really would be much nicer, if I could swap them without realigning. Maybe I'll get some spacers in the future, but the problem is, that the centerlock rotor needs to be adjusted - and therefore you need a centerlock to 6Bolt adapter to be able to use spacers. Not sure if I really will do that :) I saw the Elite wheelset in the video of tracevelo and thought I'd give it a try. The wheelset stays true so far, I really enjoy riding them. BUT: I'm not sure if I would recommend them. I ordered the 27mm version and received the 25mm version (17mm vs 15,6mm internal width). Furthermore the hub caps of the front wheel had an outer diameter of 21mm (which is for mountain bikes) instead of 19mm (which is for road bikes). Luckily my father was able to fix this for me :) So riding them is really nice, but you don't get peace of mind for the price ;)

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks a lot for your detailed answer! Häppiehh Rihdes

Thanks Paul! You are right - a crown race was required (it came with the cane creek headset). I put it on the fork but forgot to film it :)

Hi Simon, welches cane creek Headset hast du gekauft ? War es ein komplett set und mit welchen Abmessungen ? Mir fehlt nur noch der passende Headset zum fertigen bike 🙂 danke liebe Grüße Jörg 😊

The Frame is directly from Carbonda. My experience with them was really good :)

Thank you very much! I am 184cm with 88cm inside leg. The frame size is 54. I was also struggling between 54 and 56 as a lot of people would recommend 56 for my size. But I went with the 54 because I am using this bike with two wheelsets - one for gravel and one for road. Therefore I wanted a little more aggressive setup. Long story short: 54 is the perfect size for me and I am glad that I followed my own thoughts on this. The saddle is about 7cm higher than the handlebar. It's far away from being to small - 56 frame would have been also ok (with no spacers at front and a shorter stem). In the end it's hard to really recommend something as everybody has its own needs and usecases for the bike. I used Bike Stats a lot to compare the frame against bikes I know that fitted me well to find out which size I wanted. It's really a great tool. (Add handlebar, stem, saddle etc to get better results) bike-stats.de/en/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Carbonda_CFR696_2020_540&Bike2=Carbonda_CFR696_2020_560

​@@simoneizenhofer856 Thanks for your complete response. This helps a lot. Bike stats is great! I didn't now it had the addition (Add handlebar, stem, saddle) feature. My inseam is 85cm and wingspan 189cm. Leaning towards a little more aggressive setup, so 54 might suit well then. Want to use the bike for bikepacking and maybe some singletrack too. Due to covid, bikeshops are closed here. So thanks again for this helpful information.

Hey Christoph, vielen Dank! Inkl. Versand und Zoll etwa 1750 €. Der Sattel ist bei Fahrten bis 3 Stunden sehr angenehm - länger hab ich ihn allerdings noch nicht getestet. Ob sich ein Sattel gut anfühlt ist am Ende aber ohnehin höchst individuell. Sagen kann ich auf alle Fälle: Er fühlt sich für mich gut an, sieht gut aus, wirkt stabil und gut verarbeitet und ist mit 130g auch angenehm leicht.

@@simoneizenhofer856 danke simon. Will mir dies auch als Projekt einplanen... Sattel hab ich mal bestellt, kost ja nicht viel :-)

The Bottom Bracket for this bike depends on the crankset you are planning to use - if you are using SRAM you need GXP or DUB, for Shimano you need Hollowtech II, etc - what they all have in common: They need to be BSA for 68mm. I am using this BSA-DUB www.aliexpress.com/i/4000831209917.html which was delivered with the crankset. When it needs to be replaced I will use a BSA-DUB by SRAM. Hope that helps :)

There are two plastic inserts for the steering tube - one with big holes to run the cable with cable housings through and one with small holes that keep the end caps in place. I used the one with the small holes so I could run only the cables without housings through the frame.

@@simoneizenhofer856 ah that makes total sense. Thanks

Hey vielen Dank! Du hast recht, je nach Helligkeit der Umgebung wirkt das Rad tatsächlich unterschiedlich. Mal eher Weiß, mal eher Grau. Der Rahmen ist in "Telegrey 4 - RAL 7047" und "Jet Black - RAL 9005" lackiert.

Vielen Dank! Ja, denke wenn man selbst lackiert dann kommt der Preis inkl. Versand und Zoll etwa hin. Im MTB-News Forum findest du aktuelle Zahlen.

Hey Alfred, vielen Dank! Inkl. Versand und Zoll etwa 1750 €. Ich wünsche dir jede Menge Spaß und Erfolg mit deinem Rad Projekt :)

Hey Patrice, after almost one season of riding it I am still really really happy with the bike. The bike rides smooth on gravel with the 44mm ByWay tires and nice and fast on tarmac with the 28mm GP5000 tires. But of course I already switched some parts of the build and am planning to in the future but it's mostly due to personal preferences. The was only one part I really had to switch because it was crap: The chainrings of the ZRace crankset were made of soft aluminium 6xxx which made them bend under heavy load and caused several chaindrops while shifting (and scratches in the frame :( ) - I swapped them for Shimano ones made out of 7005 Aluminium and got no issues since then. The Crankset with the powermeter itself is flawless. I also swapped the 440mm gravel handlebar for 420mm road bars and the 110mm stem for 100mm. I would also invest more money in the wheelset and get a nice one from lightbycicle. That's basically it - still enjoying every ride :) Wishing you a lot of fun building and riding your bike! :)

@@cc-000 The crankset and the powermeter are still working fine after about 7000km. I think the problem that @TraceVelo pointed out was that his axle was 24mm diameter made out of aluminium. Smaller axles like SRAM GXP or Shimano Hollowtech (Both 24mm) are normally made from steel. The ZRace crankset has a 28.99mm axle (like SRAM DUB) which means that it should be more on the safe side. One thing I don't like that much is, that there is no Preload-Adjuster-Ring like the original SRAM-DUB-Cranksets do have - so you have to use spacers to adjust the play of the axle which is a little bit fiddly. There is a crankset on Aliexpress "Senicx GR" which does have that preload adjuster. Seems to be quite decent (I think @TraceVelo uses this on his new gravel build). Maybe this could be an option to. Unfortunately I didn't do any research about chain catchers yet :/

Hey Dmitriy thank you very much! The bar tape is a "ROSE Gel-Comfort handlebar tape" The tape feels and looks good so far.

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks!

Hey Patrick, thanks a lot! I got two of the black stopper thing - one 3 big holes and the one I used with two small holes that work as a stop for shifting cables and one big hole for the brake hose. Maybe you got another one, too?

@@kiwiwithacamera You got two options: You can either run the shifting cables with or without housings through the frame.There are two plastic inserts for the steering tube - one with big holes to run the cable with cable housings through and one with small holes that work as a stop and keep the end caps in place. I used the one with the small holes so I was able to run only the cables without housings through the frame. Hope that helps a little. Have a lot of fun building your bike! :)

@@kiwiwithacamera Yes that's how I did it. Should work fine :)

Yes! 160mm in the back with adapter.

Hey! I did not use any spacers for the bearing cups of the bottom bracket - just screwed them in without anything. I only used one spacer (I think it was 2mm) on the crank spindle on the drive side (where the chainring is). The goal is, that there is no axial pressure on the bearings after tightening the cranks with about 50 NM. I don't know exactly which spacer is needed, but after tightening everything up the axial play is about 0,5 mm. Hope that helps!

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks for your quick reply and that is exactly what I have done too. Perfect!

Das kleine Blech für den Umwerfer hatte ich im Video vergessen. Habe das Blech nachträglich noch montiert. Die Schaltung funktioniert theoretisch zwar auch ohne, mit jedoch noch besser. Den Expander aus dem Video hatte ich ebenfalls nur temporär montiert und ihn später gegen folgendes Modell (weil deutlich länger) getauscht: "Deda Expander 1 1/8" - 70mm (HSS)"

@@simoneizenhofer856 top danke dir. hab den gleichen expander. muss nur schauen woher ich dieses Blech bekomme 😉

Thank you very much! I really love riding it but I have to admit that 80% have been with road tyres on tarmac (using it as a road bike and gravel bike with two wheelsets) Here is a sheet with all the parts of the build (It's in German I'm sorry, but I hope it will help anyway!): docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18VpkH4FgnmS3lZgQh5a-m_-T9mZoCZHEsGhlc49EWqM/edit#gid=0

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks! Good to know you're enjoying it. I'm planning to use this as a do-it-all bike to start with (built on SRAM Force1 HRD), with some 700c*40-42 tires. Then use this as a transition bike (w aero road disc wheels) between my current neo-retro Cannondale builds and something new-electronic-disc-road once I finally commit. Thanks for the parts list, much appreciated.

@@simoneizenhofer856 Thanks for sharing this parts list! Compiling the last bits of my own build right now. It looks like you ran the shifter cables without housing internally through the frame. Did you need to buy any additional cable stoppers/frame plugs to seal the entry and exit points? If so, what size?

@@jonathanmeier4657 Yes you're right, the cables are running without housing through the frame. I just used the caps that came with the shifting cables and did not put anything else in the frame to seal it. Never thought about something like that being nescesary. Shifting works flawless :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Awesome, thanks for sharing all this stuff!

Hey Giovanni! I am using a 34/50 Crankset without any problems with the size. A GRX810 31/48 will work good. :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks. Funny Carbonda put wrong max size on their site.

@@giovannizorra3803 I just checked myself what they are writing on their homepage. It's indeed 46T max if you do a 1x Setup. For 2x Setup it's max 50/34 :)

​@@simoneizenhofer856​, that makes sense. Thank you. Anyway, I ordered it. I am keen to receive the frame!

Collecting all the parts is a little bit of a challenge these days, so good luck there and have fun building the bike! The saddle is really nice so far. Using it since about 1200km and got nothing to complain about. Think this is good :) Feels good even on 4h+ outdoor rides - only on the turbo trainer 2h is max :/

​@@simoneizenhofer856 Hi, Managed to collect all the parts! Except the frame.. Manufacturing has had lots of delay due to high demand. Did you need to use any spacers for the bottom bracket (zrace 8:32)? I've bought the sensah srx 1x11 which has BSA, should be same spec. Lastly, are the bolts for the back brake caliper (4:48) standard spec? Bolts for the 160mm adapter (M5x32).. Thanks again!

​@@wibe3778 Great to hear, that you managed to get all your parts! Hope the frame won't take long anymore :) I did not use any spacers for the bearing cups of the bottom bracket - just screwed them in without anything. I only used one spacer (I think it was 2mm) on the crank spindle on the drive side (where the chainring is). The goal is, that there is no axial pressure on the bearings after tightening the cranks with about 50 NM. I don't know exactly which spacer is needed, but after tightening everything up the axial play is about 0,5 mm The Bolts used to screw the caliper to the 160mm adapter were included with the adapter. The bolts to screw everything to the frame are these: www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-caliper-fixing-bolt-type-c-for-rear-flat-mount-712157?currency=1&delivery_country=48 The frame is 25mm thick so you need this version: 25mm (frame thickness) - screw length 38mm. Hope this helps!

Ich habe diese getrennt um bei der "Hälfte" eine weitere Zugriffsmöglichkeit beim Verlegen der Schaltzüge zu haben um diese dadurch leichter verlegen zu können. Ich hatte zuerst versucht die Schaltzüge auf einmal (ohne durchtrennte Führungshilfen) von vorne nach hinten durchzuschieben, das hatte allerdings nicht geklappt. Die gelben Hüllen/Schläuche dienen nur dazu die Schaltzüge durch den Rahmen zu führen. Sie werden anschließend entfernt. Viel Freude bei deinem Aufbau! :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Dankeschön

Thank you Tim! Riding the bike feels really smooth :) I am using it with 28mm Conti GP 5000 on the road and 44mm WTB ByWay on Gravel and Road. Did about 700km so far, so no real long term experience yet - but time will tell :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 that screams for a follow up video. Please. Greetings from the Erzgebirge.

@@davidalhoff7190 Yes, the idea is great! Maybe one day :)

Thank you very much! Of course you can copy the design - would love to see pictures of the bike :) I don't know whether they have patterns to choose from but I think you could do a screenshot from the video and change the colors in Photoshop - or tell them you want the design like me with different colors :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Thanks for the reply. I found a color option that was so nice I went with that for the whole bike. Green and purple chameleon👍 Wanted to ask about your crankset as well. Are you happy with it? There’s not much information about it out there.

@@jelbic nice! The crankset itself works fine so far, also no problems with the bearings. Only thing to mention: It was really hard to get the powermeter Spider mounted onto the the crankset, because the spider was not perfect flat. Even after I got it mounted it was not flat - as a result the chainrings were movin about 1mm when I looked at them from above while spinning. Got it fixed with some 0,5mm Spacers. So long story short: Crankset is light and stiff and works great. Powermeter Spider is working after some initial difficulties, too :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Great. I am not planning on getting the power meter, so I will not have to worry about that😀 Now I just have to find a groupset somewhere, it seems like they are in short supply. Thanks again for your replies👍

@@jelbic Hey do you have a picture of green and purple? I'm also considering a similar paint scheme

Hey Michael, das freut mich sehr. Im Normalfall sind beide "Kappen" dabei - einmal für Züge mit Hüllen und einmal mit kleinem Loch nur für die Züge. :) Soweit ich das einschätze, sollte es aber ebenfalls möglich sein, alles komplett inkl. Hülle zu verlegen - auch bei 2x. Die Umwerfer aus der neuesten Generation (egal ob GRX, Ultegra oder 105) haben alle integrierte Anschlagspunkte. Ich meine irgendwo gelesen zu haben, dass die Steckachsen von Carbonda nicht so gut sein sollen, da die Öffnung in die man das Werkzeug steckt etwas zu weich ist. Es hat sich allerdings herausgestellt, dass Nutzer die da Probleme hatten, ihr Werkzeug nicht weit genug hineingesteckt haben und es deshalb "rundgedreht" wurde. Die Steckachsen sollte man ohne Probleme nutzen können.

@@simoneizenhofer856 Hi Simon, lustig dass du gerade antwortest. Mein Rahmen ist vor einer Stunde angekommen und ich hab gerade dein Video offen. Und natürlich habe ich zwei Einsätze mit großen Löchern… Gerade eben auch nochmal als Frage ins MTB Forum gestellt. Auf jeden Fall Danke für deine Rückmeldung!

Thank you! The tubes are "Schwalbe Aerothan" - very lightweight (61g per tube) and no problems so far. The wheels are pretty basic alloy wheels. WTB i21 rims with Shimano 105 hubs. They do work fine, but I am thinking about upgrading them for some lighter carbon wheels (lightbycicle or carbonbeam.

@@simoneizenhofer856 thank you brother! I will look into those tubes. I'm thinking if I want to buy little cheaper Carbonda wheels or go with gravel Farsports with cost couple hundreds dollars more:)

@@simoneizenhofer856 I loved my Dt swiss alloy for commuting on my cyclocross, before it was stolen.

Yes I removed them after I used them to guide the cables and hoses through the frame (they are really helpful for that purpose)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Did you run a full shifter cable housing through the frame or is the cable bare inside?

Thanks! The weight is about 9,3 - 9,5 kg including pedals, bottlecages, etc. in Gravel Mode and about 8,5 kg in Road Mode with the other wheelset. (The scale isn't the best)

The bike as shown in the video did cost almost exactly 1775 € (which I think is really decent as it got fully hydraulic groupset and powermeter crankset. I was able to buy some parts used, that's how I kept the costs low - for example the shifters and the wheelset. Second wheelset is not included in that price) I don't have a proper roadbike so unfortunatelly I can't really compare how fast it is. However I joined some local roud-group-rides and it was no problem to keep up. (in the draft :D ) I am 1,84m and went with a frame size 54 (medium) and not with 56 (large) (which probably most would recommend) to have an endurance road bike like geometry and a shorter wheelbase. Of course the frameset is not as aero and not as stretched as an race roadbike but I think it's just as good as any allroad or endurance road bike. (but that's just what I think :) ) Hope this helps :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 This is very helpful indeed, thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have two other smaller questions in mind; did you paint it/get it painted yourself or did they paint it themselves? If so how much did they charge for a custom paint? Second question is, do you estimate the cost of tools to be under 500 euros or more, required to build this bike? 1700 euros is indeed unbeatable for carbon hydraulic with a PM crankset.

​@@Carftymk The paintjob was done by Carbonda - just sent them a sketch of the design I had in mind. At that time it was 85$ for two glossy colors. The paintjob looks really good but I already got 2 chips at the chainstays. I think I hit something and the paint used is probably not the most robust you can get. But it's more than good for the money. You can contact them via contac form on their website and they will tell you the current prices and options. Tools can get expensive quick, but 500 € will be more than enough. I almost only used an "all in one toolbox" for 50 €, a small 2-20NM torque wrench (important) for 50 €, a work stand for 80 € and some other cheap special tools like bleeding kit or bottom bracket tool ... - plus some other basic tools like the saw, screwdrivers etc I already owned. The big torque wrench is nice to have but not really necessary.

Hey Michael, thank you very much! Carbonda is offering a headset for the frame, too but when I ordered the frame 1 year ago, there were some rumors that it's not the very best. That's why I went with the Cane Creek 40 headset - simple and reliable at a reasonable price. Read only good things about it :) (Meanwhile many people told that they are totally happy with the carbonda headset.) Wishing you so much fun building and riding your new home :)

Thank you for this additional info, I Figure there was a good reason so I researched a little bit on complete headsets, the Crane Creek 40 appears fit the quality checkbox Although. I was too quick to click the buy button before reading your reply . 🤔 So I now have the Cane Creek 40 headset I am wander if it is too small at least the large bearing race does not sit flush on the fork, did you did you use the original race from Carbonda?

I found my way to my friendly local bike shop and got them to install the Crane Creek crown race no drama 😆... your channel has so much useful information thanks again, 👍

Hey Chris, thank you! The two most important reasons for me: the SRAM cassette was available at the time of the build, while Shimano wasn't and SRAM offers an 11-36T 11 Speed cassette while Shimano only has 11-34T. I thought having that little bit easier gear on a gravel bike would be nice. (50-34 in the front) There are also some less important reasons: the SRAM cassette is a few grams lighter than 105 and I read about annoying chain rattling with some Shimano cassettes. But in the end I think both would have been great :)

I did not know one can combine these. Will you give a review?

@@simoneizenhofer856 Great reasons indeed. I would only comment that shifting might be slighly smoother with the Shimano cassette because of how the chain is designed to work with the cassette. Cheers!

@@davidalhoff7190 Yes, SRAM and Shimano chainrings, chains and cassettes are officially compatible - as long as they have the same speed.

@@dscoduc Yes might be a great idea for the future to test it with a SRAM chain. Even though no problems with shifting so far, but did not ride more than 10 hours on the bike yet - so time will tell. :)

Hey vielen Dank! Das Weiß ist eigentlich Grau (Telegrey 4 - RAL 7047) und wirkt je nach Umgebungshelligkeit heller oder dunkler. Wenn man das Rad in echt vor sich stehen hat, erkennt man aber eigentlich immer, das es Grau ist :)

Thanks! I'm 184 with 86 inseam. I went with a 54 frame for a more aggressive geometry - I am usinng it as a roadbike with a second wheelset, too. Otherweise a 56 frame would have been perfect. With a stem short enough even a 58 would work - riding position will be comfortable and upright with a large frame.

@@simoneizenhofer856 Wow, we're pretty much of the same size. What stem length do you use?

@@omarmahariq Stem is 90mm with -6 degree. Handlebar reach is 75mm. I only have a 5mm spacer below the stem, resulting in a quite aggressive riding position. I tested a 110mm stem with 20mm spacers below, too - but I like the more agile setup better (In the video you can see the old setup with the 110mm stem). As I already mentioned: I am using this bike as a gravel and road bike. For gravel only or for a generally more relaxed position on the bike, I would chose framesize 56 :)

Hey Franz! Fahre das Bike ja inzwischen in der dritten Saison und bin nach wie vor mega happy mit dem Rahmen. Absolut unauffällig im positiven Sinn :)

Thank you! I didn't read too many good things about the carbonda expander so I decided to use a Ritchey Expander: www.bike-components.de/en/Ritchey/WCS-Headset-Expander-p21261/ There is also a Expander by Deda which is really long, that might be a good option (have never used it myself): www.bike24.com/p2248470.html

Nice, thank you! :)

**fap fap fap**

Those are "Schwalbe Aerothan". They advertise it as lightweight (which it actually is with 61g for a tube) with little rolling resistance and being robust at the same time. I thought i give it a try as I like the ride feeling of tubeless but I don't want to care about messing around with tubeless sealant everey 6 months.

Absolut zufrieden mit dem Rahmen. Bis auf zwei kleinere Lackabplatzer an den Sitzstreben keinerlei Auffälligkeiten. Macht nach wie vor viel Freude sowohl auf der Straße, als auch im Gelände :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 sehr schön. Spiele auch schon lange mit dem Gedanken aber kann mich nicht entscheiden ob 707 oder 696 und dann auch noch die Farbe :/ ... Aber das fast durchgängig positive Feedback zu Carbonda ist schon gut zu hören. Hoffe ich brauch nicht so lange zum Überlegen, als dass die Preise dann angepasst werden wenn ich zum Entschluss gekommen bin :D

Hey Hannes, sehr cool, dass du auch auf den 696er Rahmen gestoßen bist! Macht nach etwa einem 3/4 Jahr immer noch mega Freude zu fahren. Das Fahrrad selbst aufzubauen sowieso :) Für die Lackierung habe ich einen Entwurf vom Design mitgeschickt, der dann richtig gut umgesetzt wurde. Das ist wirklich genial - vom Design herist quasi alles möglich, was man sich vorstellen kann :D Für den Entwurf kannst du dir zum Beispiel im Konfigurator von Ridley (Das Kanzo Adventure basiert auf dem 696er Rahmen) diverse Screenshots vom Rahmen machen und dann in Photoshop oder GIMP so bearbeiten wie du es gerne hättest. Hier der Link zum Konfigurator: www.ridley-bikes.com/de_DE/configurator/KANZOC Hoffe das hilft ein bisschen weiter! Falls du es noch nicht entdeckt hast: im MTB-News Forum gibt’s ein inzwischen ewig langes Thema zu dem Rahmen.

@@simoneizenhofer856 - waooou, vielen Dank für dieses ausführliche Feedback. In Österreich sagt man "Danke du bist ein Schatz" ;) Ridley, on One bikes, Storck - ich bin mittlerweile draufgekommen das sehr viele diesen Rahmen verwenden und ziemlich was draufhauen an Marge. Aber da mich deren Komponentenmix nicht so überzeugt glaube ich dich so wie vielen vielen Jahren wieder mal selber zu schrauben wie Du. Nochmals vielen Dank für Dein Feedback. LG

Thank you! The paintjob was done by carbonda - I doubt that I would have been able to do it myself that good. I went with a glossy finish, because from other customers experience, the glossy painting is much more durable than a matte finish. You can order the frame directly via the Carbonda web page - import taxes are prepaid. You can find all the information needed here: www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/carbonda-gravel-carbonrahmen-aus-china.893336/

The white is a light grey - RAL 7047

@@simoneizenhofer856 Thank you