Baffle shape is like a toilet seat. Once u see it u can’t unsee it.

Very impressive work.

love it

Good work! To decrease size of an inductor we can use ferrite road.The size of a coil without a road is quite big.

Hi Gabby, I want to thank you for all the information that you carefully selected to pass for your viewers. I am currently planning to build my first hi-fi system. The journey is absolutely amazing and rewarding. I was thinking to buy the speaker kit from GR-research and build my own amp, dac, and streamer. I am learning so much from you, as I;m a student and i can't afford to pay thousands on each component.

Молодец парень

Hello Gabby,Really love all your Hifi DIY videos.I have a pair of vintage La Scala's and would like to upgrade the crossovers.I know you keeping mentioning the part specs and ratings in these videos but is their a cmprehensive listing of parts used that goes alongwith with the schematic. Thanks.

Hi Gabby, nice video, quick question, I have a pair of Energy Cf-70 speakers that Im running through Yamaha Rx-v3900 im considering upgrading the crossover however not sure if its worth the expense or if i should just upgrade the speakers, your thoughts would be much appreciated. thanks

I have a pair of Pioneer CS-99A with a very complicatedly designed crossover, however its bass is weak, while the mid to high are too hard. I also have another a pair Technics SB_X500A with a much simpler crossover, but its bass is much stronger than the CS-99A, and its mid to high are very much warm and comfort. Its bass is even stronger than the Pioneer HPM-100.

How long did they take to burn in?

Hi Gabby, We love you speaker design, Thank You! - So exciting that you are documenting your build to help others , so few people show these kinds of examples to help others learn. - I really like you hidden wires in the crossovers - very good idea! - Thank you so much for the crossover schematic! , - It would be so helpful if you can give a list Please ? . . . - to show which parts you used , - ( example only), - C1 - .0uF Miflex copper - C2 - 2uF MBGO - L4 - 0.62mH copper/wax jensen , ..... ..... etc . . . - ( it's hard to read them all in video, thank you) ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - here is a suggestion for you maybe to look into down the road - this is by another speaker builder , I can let you know who if you want to know latter ... - " After years of putting up with Duelund resistors and their terrible customer care (Brand new ones arrive already broken… (and they do) - sorry… they won’t refund or replace them) I finally had enough and found my holy grail. They are made by Path Audio of Poland and they are even better than the Duelunds, but that is only part of the exciting news.".

Hi Gabby from India. Im struggling with a cross over for a Eminence PSD2002 Comp Driver. Any tips to pick up the dip from 15K to 20K.

Hi Gabby, could you please tell me what you used or recommend a test mic and software for your speaker building and testing

I need 2 of these to buy please

Please let me know what model of microphone you used during the measurements?

Help ! I made a 3 way first order network that I love, sounds great 👍 I can't find info on making it a second order, is there a formula ? Can I keep the first order and add caps and coils for a faster cut off ? My home made speakers are better than most store bought but nowhere near the level of yours, I used Jantzen 16ga.coils and Jantzen caps, so the xovers cost me around $80 each again better than most production, but not on the level of yours, just so you know what my budget is/ what type components I'll be using

What are u using to find out the waves of sound

Nice ❤ but the B&W mids is not a super high-end driver..🤖

where did you get the big air coil> What value is it? Crossover points?

Hi, what is R4 doing on low woofer?

Hi Gabby! Why do you bypass capacitors and resistors with additional miflex capacitors?

На СЧ и на НЧ лучше катушки мотать литцендратом , они лучше ведут себя на этих частотах . А на НЧ желательно сделать две катушки одна над другой и отдаляя или сдвигая катушки можно регулировать в больших пределах индуктивность самих катушек в довольно приличных пределах .

Which part is most and least important for a hi end speaker? The driver, the box or the crossover parts?

What model 47uF capacitors did you use?

Hi there, I'm relatively new to DIY speaker building. I'm wondering if you could explain the difference between cheaper crossover parts vs more expensive. Just a general idea is fine. I don't quite understand, if the values are the same on both the cheap and expensive components the outcome should be the same right? Bear in mind I'm not very knowledgeable about the electrical parts yet, I'm just trying to understand why some advocate for super expensive components while others say it doesn't matter? I could be missing some simple info that makes my question stupid, but if that's the case I'd still like to know haha. Is the percentage listed on the components that the differing factor for cheap vs expensive components? If that's the case, does matching cheap components that measure the same have the same outcome of expensive components? Thank you gab! Edit: I've just built cheap kits, no designing yet but maybe it could be fun at some point to try, but I don't really understand enough yet haha

Why not build seperate speaker no crossover and utilise external EQ?

Gabby - Just discovered your channel-- I'm very impressed with your speakers -- they are truly an work of art. I have several questions about your crossover schematic-- You said this is a second order design -- It appears to me that the high pass section is 3rd order -- if not, what is the function of the 10uf cap (C8)? I see you use bypass capacitors on the padding resistors at the input of both the high and band pass sections -- Is this to boost the output at the high end of each driver's range? Also, you are using bypass capacitors (.01uf) on many of the filter capacitors -- even on the capacitor in the low pass section, but you didn't use one on the 10uf cap previously mentioned (C8) in the high pass section-- why not? Also, you show a resistor (R4) in series with the filter capacitors in the low pass section-- what is the function of that resistor? You give a value of 330m-- does that mean milliohms? If so, I've never seen a resistor used in a passive network with that low of a value. Also, in the band pass section why did you place L1 in the circuit before L2 which would be a more conventional placement -- or does it make any difference where they are situated?

Halo , Sir can i know where do you buy those good quality caps and speakers also ? Tq

You should have done path audio resistors... Quite a big improvement over the ones you used... But good build. Also your scale on sweeps make it 5db vs 10. Your waterfall z axis also is large time domain should be smaller to show true scale

Is the big coil 4.0mh sir ?..its that pararell crosover or series croasover?

bro great vids you post and you know I follow ur channel , I just would like to say that do a light room treatment with good absorbing woods , if u want my help in accustics , mainly I set up and make ht systems for people , mostly I make amps and speakers , THERE is only one channel that is right about acoustics is acoustic fields and you can use any activated carbon if u want I can send u some pics of my work , I have around 400kgs of activated charcoal on the walls of my 2 channel listening room , my room is special because all the walls are covered by very high quality of pine that is instrument quality as I regularly go to wood lumber yard where fresh lumber is available , u can say I find 2,3 pieces that are special in a pile sometimes u find more depends on pattern its no big deal just read up on how instrument people choose wood , I wish I could afford mahogany

Solder sucks. Crimp that post. And plumber tape to separate that non copper nut from touching copper post.