Excellent! I've personally worked as a motor mechanic here in Aussie for over fifty years (retired now). Lance is worth his weight in gold when it comes to good, practical advice. He's even taught me a few new things! Many thanks Lance for all your work and effort. Rob, FNQ,AU

Hi there, Lance. I just wanted to say how much I greatly appreciate your videos, I'm currently working of a friends' little grey fergie, and your generosity in sharing your knowledge has certainly been useful. I now have a happily idling te20 that has sat for many years in a shed, and its videos like these that help me appreciate just how approachable these machines are to work on.

Thanks, have found a range of your videos really helpful for servicing / repairing my TE20 and TEA20 tractors here in NZ.

i have watched many videos looking for how to set my tappets (for my 4cy ed33 from 1984) and this was the one that definitively gave me the answer thank you! Your a top bloke mate!

Very nice looking job. Thanks for sharing your way to adjust the tappets correctly.

Great video Lance. Me and my Dad used this video to adjust the rockers on his 1950 TE20 Massey Ferguson.

Nice work Lance, I picked up some good hints. Motor is looking nice.

Thanks Lance! I'm not that far yet but I will watch this video again when the time comes.

This is awesome man, thanks for the info

Nice videos! Also learn a lot

Dear Mr Bear, Firstly, thank you very much for all your videos and part numbers etc - I have found them very very helpful and these vids have been the basis for my rebuild. Secondly, a little history - I unfortunately cooked my tractor during the fires in NSW - I knew I had a hard day coming and topped up all fluids etc but had a stiff radiator tap and left it very very slightly open ‘apparently’ after about 6 hrs use she must have been dry and hot but in the smoke and high temps of the fires with goggles and masks on I couldn’t tell - I stopped her at one point and could hear her boiling and hissing away not a good sign so I let her cool down. Needless to say she never started again and I pushed my old 1952 girl to safety - a few weeks later after xmas I went to start her again and of course she was completely seized... didn’t turn over at all. I’m not a mechanic but very interested in this incredible machine so it became my first job - but I decide to have a crack. I found a blown head gasket, cylinders full of water, head full of water, oil and rust as well as water in the sump and rocker assembly had varying amounts of old and new rust and carbonisation, valves would not close or move in some cases, valve springs and valves were rusted into place and could not be pushed down by hand with a block. I have since managed to get the pistons turning using a pinch bar on the fly wheel and cleaned up the cylinders and turned two valves into grinding wheels with the use of some fabric backed wet and dry and epoxy (worked a treat - figured the valves are harder metal and have the right angle on them) and re ground the seats as seat grinding kits are very expensive, I have replaced some valves, all springs etc reground and lapped in valves, managed to remove all studs etc etc, studs and bolts removed threads cleaned up removed a broken stud from the manifold serviced the fuel bowl and radiator and radiator plug glides smoothly again - carby stripped and cleaned, oil bath cleaned out thermostat housing cleaned, new thermostat, new sparks, cylinders are very clean - straightener one slightly bent push rod but they all look good tops wearing in a circle etc everything is moving and looks pretty good probably the cleanest it’s been in decades. Thirdly, I’m at the stage of putting the head back on and setting valve clearances - all valve clearance pins and nuts do ‘now’ all back off and can be set etc - questions: If you find the correct hole fir cylinder 1 in the flywheel and check the distributor to see the button is pointing at cylinder 1’s firing point and so know cylinder 1 is at TDC could you not take out the starter and mark that hole for 1 and 4 and then find the other hole in the flywheel opposite side for 2 and 4 and then just turn the engine over placing a pin in the holes (briefly checking the distributor for the right firing point) when setting each valve clearance knowing you are at the perfect right point to set each valve clearance... Q1. I think the fly wheel has four holes showing 1+4 cylinder TDC as well as cylinder middles then 2+3 TDC and then cylinder middles - meaning the fly wheel needs to turn fully twice for all four cylinders to do one full cycle - is that right the fly wheels rotated twice for all four cylinders to fire and return to 1? Q2. If so, would above work if you can locate those pin holes on the flywheel and check the distributor for positions? Q3. Could you set 1 and 4 clearances at the same time and then 2 and 3 at the same time - or is it best you just do them sequentially turning to each in firing order? Again, thank you so much for your hard work making your own videos and sharing them your clearly a multi talented bloke - I could never have attempted this job myself without your guidance - I have learnt a lot about this little machine so Thank You very much sir. :)

Yea the videos are brilliant Lance all the best from the Uk

Nice tips to save the gasket, and the rocker adjustment lock nuts.

Sit down and pay attention kids. Lance has his specs on we're getting serious over here!

Yes I come from down under. Where fields are gold and Ferguson’s thunder.

I simply put a rubber o-ring below the cover nut, no leaks. And no silicone ;)

Nice one Lance. Think I have to back and check mine as I've mixed up my inlet/exhaust specs...😳

👌👍 Bonzer again Lance 😀

Neat. Thanks for sharing!

Another informative video thanks Lance. Are you expecting a grease shortage with all those tubes of grease on the shelves behind you. LOL

Very helpful

Thanks Lance illuminating as always. I'm doing a 1952 TEA 20 and my rocker gear had a plate that goes under one of the retaining bolts. It has been awhile since I started and now can't quite remember where it goes. The manual is no help either. Any suggestions or do I just leave it off as the one you did didn't seem to have one at all?

Hi lance, big thanks for your vid6s I wondering where I can get the four stud and nuts that hold down the rockers for a te20 ? Not sure if you can buy them new?

Thanks mate.

Thanks for this videos!! what do you think about incres the compresion? maybe to 8:1 o 9:1. thank you from Uruguay!!

thanks

Great videos bundy. Thanks to you I just rebuilt the halfshafts on my 20. Does that TEA use the zenith 24T2 carburetor? Would love to see a video on how to strip that down and rebuild it for my `51 TED.

working on a TO30 z129 previous owner only hand tightened head bolts, not torque. so after I got it and he ran it for a long time, oil mixing with coolant...coolant mixing with oil. your list of same procedure for many other tractors yet the TO30 is not included. my question is I know torque will be different but is the basic procedure any different? this question it to pertain to this video or any others made for the TE20 you have. thank you, and thank you for making the help video...there is so little videos on these TO30 tractors

Bundy on a 1955. T o 35 i just got head redone it had the stem caps but new vavles are solid on stem exhaust is shorter should i put caps on exhaust or leave it be thanks for your time

Hi Bundy, I realize this video has been around a while. My Massey Ferguson 253 with Perkins is coming up on 1000hrs. I believe it's due for tappet adjustments. Is it done similar? Thank you! Enjoy your videos.

Morning all, I was going to inspect my headgasket yesterday as i have some emulsification in my sump - when i took the rocker cover off it was shocking - thick sludge and mayo everywhere, I doubt if the rocker cover has been off in at least 20 years (1952 TED20) strangely when i took the head off, there is no sign of leaking at the headgasket. Once i get the sheared exhaust manifold stud out its going back together - my question is, could years and years of condensation be the culprit?

Hi Mr. Lance, how are you? A question, and I hope you can help me. I'm not able to find in Italy the valve register bolts and nuts for my TEF20. Please, can you tell me some websites to buy them? i've tried, but not found nothing yet

I have a question bout my 48. I have a splitter hooked to it at the moment but every time I split a piece of wood when the pressure builds the 3 point lifts up. When it splits the pressure drops the 3 point goes back down. How can I solve this

Buddy I'm rebuilding a te20 has a continental z120. Got started idles fine when give a little throttle over speeds please help.

Lance, I have a Massey Ferguson 35 petrol I’ve been working on ,the exhaust valves have lash caps on them but not on intake valves, is this normal, I don’t have a manual to check I think tractor is a 63 model Cheers Peter

Hi Lance i need some help / advice i have a 49 TED 20 how do i get the timing chain off i can't see joiner in the chain do i have pull the two pulleys off with the chain hope you can help mate love your video's would be good if you pulled a TED down best wishes Andy

You looked worried torquing those pedestal nuts down.........With good reason. I thought they were going to snap...You seemed to be winding them down awful tight, What did you have your wrench set to?

Do u the gauges for the tappets on an IH 275

Why buddy it's Dan found problem with z120. Governor shaft was loose and spinning all the way around. Was able to penne into place

what bore is that motor 80 or 85 ????

so when we see you with the glasses on its going to get technician.