I’m going to pick up a first gen tomorrow and this is by far the most helpful video on these trucks I’ve seen. Thank you!!

Keep the content coming Tim. I have a lot of work I need to do on my first gen to get it ready to be the tow vehicle I want it to be, while I am in retirement. Being a mechanically inclined imbecile, when it comes to cars, trucks, and motorcycles, the more learning I get from you and others like Tyler, really help me a lot.

I just got a 1st gen yesterday probably would have been helpful if KZfaq recommended this to me a little earlier

These are the 5 things I look for when buying a 1st gen cummins. What did I miss? What do you look for? I'm going to keep updating the description to make a comprehensive list of things we can all come up with 👍

Love the channel man, always look forward to your next episode. Watching your vids gives me the confidence to work on my first gen. Keep em coming.

I used to own a first gen D250 2 wheel drive stick. Straight six dodge Cummins. Same color. Extended cab. Loved the truck. Would love to own another one. Cool truck👍

Im glad i changed both the front and the rear main seals when did the swap on my truck and i also did the kdp while it was out of the truck. Like always great informative video.

This is the first video I have seen of your a really enjoyed it. Thank you for the info too. A first gen is my dream truck so it helped me a lot. You earned yourself a new subscriber

Well I love this channel for one I have a 84 crew cab d350 non dually 8 foot and a 87 w250 and your right on point about these old dodges here in pa there getting scarce the wiring is what I look at cause people don’t know what there doing. so they just cobble it together the frame rots by the gas tank love your crew cab keep up the awesome work

Looking into buying one soon this video helps a lot keep making good content 👍

Great video! I sold my 89 W250 (same color as in this video) last year and bought a 3rd gen 5.9 cr 325hp crew cab 4x4. Here's what I learned from my 1st gen. Lots of interior things in the cab go bad. I would never, ever want another 3:07 3-speed auto. It was a nonlockup converter that discarded the power from the diesel. It was a struggle to keep up with freeway traffic. The cab was noisy and uncomfortable. The auto trans had linkage that made the accelerator pedal very stiff. I would avoid the 3-speed auto and get the stick instead. It is a deal breaker to have the 3-speed auto for me and part of why I got rid of it along with I needed a crew cab. Mine was a Cali truck and there was still some rust but not too bad. Was rusted through at the top gutter and patching it wasn't easy. The steering sucks on 1st gets but it can be upgraded. They can have battery overcharging issues attributed to bad grounds and the wiring harness. The tailgate has plastic connectors that break but I liked it broken because I learned to grab the metal rods with my fingers instead. Harder for someone else to open it which I liked. Having a regular cab for me was frustrating and when I got a big dog it was time for a crew cab. Be careful what you wish for with a 1st gen. Yes, they are easy to work on and cheaper for things like injectors but my 3rd gen has no KDP to secure, more power, better ride and comfort, and a real crew cab. The 1st gen is a truck in it's raw form and takes a lot of work to get it to do what a stock 3rd gen can get out of the powertrain. The older 1st gens are very detuned in stock form. Each to their own but I prefer the 3rd gen. If you still want a 1st gen I suggest before buying it get it up on the freeway and drive it 70mph to see how you like it (shouldn't be a problem for a stick shift). Also, try towing your trailer before you buy it. Mine sold in 2 hours of the ad coming out.

Your video is pinpoint, top notch, and quite frankly the best video I have seen on the subject. i noticed you started out with rust. Damn I was blessed, I got an 85 Powerwagon body with a 92, 5.9L...but the old man I got the Powerwagon body from had taken the thing to Ziebart rust protection like 13 times and still had a problem in the drip well. Fixed with drip well with Double Bubble glue I got on Amazon, but the whole body is perfect thanks to Ziebart.

Solid advice as always!

Good Advice Tim, Thumbs Up !

This video is awesome. Thanks for all the tips!

Frame rust/rotting - surface rust is to be expected on anything close to 30 years and can be cleaned up, but I'd steer clear of any frame with enough spots and clues to rotting and pitting. Also, another idea for a video(s) would be preventative maintenance tips specific to the Cummins, e.g. oils that you prefer to use for engine, transmission, diffs, etc. I've used a zinc additive and lucas stabilizer on 15w40 T4 with great results on the 12v I just got (sitting at 159k miles). Also use 12 oz of low ash 2 stroke oil in fuel every 3rd fill up for help with lubricating the fuel system.

Good video, Tim. I would also add to check the injection pump to see if it's been messed with. Don't want to try to turn it up if it's already been done

One thing to remember on the 3.07 rear that came in all 89 to 91.5 auto's , even 4 wheel peel trucks, have been discontinued log ago. If you chunk a ring and pinion, your out of luck. No manufacturer makes a dana 70 ring and pinion in 3.07. I have broken 2 of them. If you can't find used parts, its all over. The rear ends (open type) are prone to stretch the center spider gear pin holes in the carrier , then proceed to come out of the rear cover and say " HI " .

I have only ever bought one First Gen Cummins and I still have it. That was 20 years ago so I really don't remember much about it.

Beautiful truck, job well done man

Couple more things worth mentioning, the '89-'91 trucks have a shorter frame usually (6" I believe) and the '91.5-'93 trucks have an 8" tall frame. 2WD trucks EAT front suspension components but they ride nicer. The intercooled trucks also come from the factory with a pigtail for a tach under the steering column. I like a 5 speed truck the Getrag is underrated. Just overfill it by approximately 2 quarts via the shifter cover. I think someone even manufactures a kit for a taller fill port. I agree with you listing rust as the first item. I would thoroughly investigate the frame as well, especially around the cab mounts. Sick video as always dude

Great video!

Awesome 1rst Gen video!!...Aloha🤙🏽

Hi Tim! GREAT VIDEOS! Thanks! Would like to mention that for BEST RESULTS the stock steel rims should be used. Any wider rims or off sets will have negative effects on wheel bearings and steering. Same with larger diameter tires. These will affect performance, fuel milage and braking.

Unfortunately most of the first gens & 7.3’s have rusted away bad on the east coast. Great video!

From what I've seen, any 1st gen Cummins that runs and is at least 37% there is worth a few hundred grand. They hold their value for sure. You've built a very nice truck, by the way.

I live up and New England and you hardly ever find rust free trucks and when I do they are expensive, but im starting to learn to weld so my search might be a bit wider. Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely refer to these if I go to check one out.

👍 good video Another that i always check is the VE PUMP leaking 😳

I had the chance to pick up an 82 Extended Cab D-250 perfect body with no engine and trans for $400 (I have a running donor intercooled 1995 p-pumped 12v with a 47rh to swap into something) but you've made me want a 4 door so bad that I had to pass on it. I have an '84 W250 single cab gas right now but my dream is a 4 door crew cab 4x4 first gen with a 12v that is super daily drive-able like yours. I'm thinking of swapping my 12v into my gasser but my gasser is 100% daily drive-able right now

I have 2 of these trucks there are no where in the shape of yours. Great tips especially the wiring tip. I have done PCM deletes and completely rewired mine and compared to a new truck was easy. haha Thanks for sharing! Love the 4 door mod as well...looks like from factory!

On 3 of mine the KDP was fine, but the case bolts were all loose. One had the KDP blocked by drilling the case from the outside. I took it apart anyway, and yep, KDP was captured, case bolts loose.

Great content! Very helpful. Subscribing

Going to look at a first gen hope it's a good steal.

Flying to Montana from pa this Friday to pickup a 92 W250 Club from the 2nd owner. Getrag was swapped to a nv4500. Rockers and frame look great, but it’s an older man and I’m lowballing so I feel bad making him get up there’s and ask for drip rail pics… we’ll c how it goes

I've got a good tip. Alot of the first gen trucks have been kinda frankensteined together. For example, when I bought a 1990, I was very excited and basically didn't look things over well until after I had the truck a few days, when I went to register the truck, I got to looking the title over closely and realized it said it was a 1990 half ton. The vin on the title matched the vin on the dash. The truck is all 2500 equipped, dana 60 n 70, Cummins, tf727. I ran the vin at a Dodge dealership and it comes back to half ton, manual trans, 6cyl truck. So I'm guessing the body or the dash? had been swapped at some time. LMC catalog also has a diagram to decipher the vin. Kinda puts you in a bad spot if you ask me.

In all honesty the drip rail is what was going to tell me if he knew what he was talking about or not.

Good video. However, I happened to find a 1990 about a decade ago WITH a factory-fit Banks 2.5 in. intercooler. Very rare find, needless to say. Last year during my COVID time off I did some retail therapy with modern silicone couplers, intake horn, etc. I re-did the intake horn and all the pipe, converting it all to 3-inch. I left the original Banks intercooler in there, since there was nothing wrong with it, and putting a 1994+ Mishimoto 3-inch intercooler in there would have been a hassle, trying to figure-out the mounting, etc.

2:17 My body wasn't rusty when I bought it 20 years ago, now it is! The first thing to check is the front edge of the roof, this is a real P.I.T.A.

As far as stock vs modified, I think fully stock is better. However, if it is a modified truck, it could be a sweet deal. That is something I would have to look at. If they through a big single on the engine with crazy big injectors, that's a no go for me. If the thing just billows smoke like crazy that's a no go. I don't want something that has been washed down and likely has major scoring on the cylinder walls. That's kind of why I default to stock trucks. Preferably if you can find one owner trucks butthat is a really hard thing to find lol.

Check to see if the frame is cracked from the steering box. That would be my advice. Got mine welded back together

I use half a wax toilet bowl ring wixed in with a tube of Lucas red and tacky grease. Heated up in an old cooking pot and brushed on the inside of the body panels, fenders, etc. Fluid film or chain lube for hard to reach areas. NO MORE RUST. Last for years!

I’ve seen your truck in Payson at best deal springs a few weeks ago, do you ever do meet ups?

Make sure you put a tracking device on . 1st and 2nd generation with manual transmission are thrives favorite to steal.

13:26 The plastic trim pieces around the windscreen and back window are a problem, they are usually so brittle they break if you just touch them and replacements are hard to come by.

I was looking to buy one in the next couple months. I've had Ford's n Chevy's but never a dodge and I love Cummins so I figure it's time I get one but after watching this it seems I better off just finding a motor to throw in my ford 🤣

Please talk about the KDP, and what options we have, I'm thinking about just removing it, and put a cover plate. What do you think?. Thanks, Gus.

Another common leak is the tappet/pushrod cover and to me that’s a bit harder than the rear main because the ve pump needs to come off

I do Agree

One thing I’ve seen is I’ve seen two 2nd gen 12 valve with the head gasket leaking next to thermostat an a 92 first gen and a 93 first gen real common if they have been over heated so 4 In total

Do you think you could do a video on the gear shift indicator in the dash display. Mine shifts fine but it doesn't show what gear. It only stays in "P" and doesn't touch N R D 1 2.

Hey I’m looking for a truck just like yours right now do you have any leads

Can you make a video of putting a 91-93 grill on a 89 90 no ome has done a vid of it yet on here

What are the differences between beds are they all long beds because that just about all I have seen for sale?

Question, (if someone can help) I plan on getting a first gen. For towing a converted 8.5 x 20 cargo trailer to a rv. What options are best?

Where do you get your Cummins badges from? Im trying to find them.

Essentially on these old Dodges; the motor was great! That Cummins straight 6 would run forever with minimal maintenance. The rest of the truck around that Cummins motor on the other hand, was a piece of crap. The cab design dated back to 1972 with very few updates. Chrysler's build quality at the time left a lot to be desired in almost all areas. But there's something about them that compared to the ultra-sophisticated, ultra-expensive rigs we see today that is appealing. This truck is simple. It's cheap to run and easy to maintain and repair when it does break. Whether you're buying it for a daily driver or a collector, simplicity is its claim to fame.

I have a 1stgen with a 318 my starter is going out rn how would u remove a starter form under the moter or pull the header and take it off that way

I am looking at picking up a locally owned 91 regular cab with a long bed 250 with the auto 3 speed and 5.9 diesel. It only has 103K on it. Its a typical arizona truck with sun burnt paint, so so interior but there is zero rust. Runs great, needs tires. The PO tied in awhole bunch of aftermarket CB and radio equipment that I would rip out. What would something like this be worth? He is asking 10K

i had a 89 duley disel with 800 thousland no problem at all sold it for 15000

Would buying a first gen dually with 230k stock engine for 5,000$ not be good ?

Do you know were I can find one of those

Is it possible to buy a 4wd crew cab dually

Is this like truck softcore corn?... Like what's with this intro? This is definitely soft core for dudes. Come on guys.

Seeing as how this video is over a year old I doubt anyone will answer, but is 300,000 miles on a 12v that’s been a farm truck it’s whole life too much to invest my time and money in? Thankful for any thoughts and replies

How would a 93’ d250 do for towing a car trailer with a 4K pound car on it?

What would a 90k miles 93 w350 dually sell for?

I really wish that they actually put the Cummins in a crew cab but sadly they did not

Head gasket coolant leak #1 cylinder on the passenger side.

How do u get the blue tags for your video?

Fix the front seal...it will leak again...I am on my 3rd power steering pump

What wheels are those?

so the club cab or half cab only made for one year

Bought my first gen d350 last week! Help? Haha

have you heard about the broken cowl problem?There was a TSB from the factory in 1994 on it.Can't post a photo here www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/cowl-cracks-238712/

call a paintless dent repair guy for dents

Where does one find a rust free first gen? 😂😂

This is clearly a regional video ... Im from Maine ... rust

Good luck finding a rust free, Dent free ,brand new 30 year old truck! Better get $50k ready to drop. 🤣

If you can’t do things yourself then don’t look at a first gen

They leak no matter what? F_ck that noise I’ll just finance a new truck brah 😐

You set your vid to monetize trying to get rich & sh_t brah

1st gens are cool but overpriced and overrated