DONT FORGET TO DRAIN THE SUPERCHARGER OIL FIRST. Forgot to say this in the video but it’s very important.
Taking apart and replacing the rear bearing in my C32. Not a professional video or anything, just documenting the process as I go through it. It was really a lot easier than I expected, the biggest time waster is removing the clutch plate and hammering off the front half of the supercharger, but if I knew what I was doing this whole job would only take around 2 hours. I recommend a good blowtorch with an accurate flame, if you spend too much time heating the wrong thing the parts will become stuck and you’re screwed.
Edit: I have done this job again with the supercharger attached to the car. The procedure is exactly the same, except you might have to remove the oil cooler and a small solenoid in front. But it’s exactly the same procedure, and once you get the rotors out you can do everything else off the car. In order to get the bearings on I froze the rotor pack for 2 hours and hammered them on and used a 17mm socket on the inner race to hammer them fully in, then replaced the snap ring. So far so good, the rebuild was a success.
Edit 2: I wanted to add some more information on this. When replacing the clutch plate, you need to make 100% sure that the pin holes line up perfectly or you’ll have to pull it off and redo it, I had to redo it twice in order to get them to line up, and I wasn’t able to get the pins back in even after freezing them so I went to Home Depot and bought M4 size screws and hammered those into the pin slots instead, they’re holding fine so far, if they fail I’ll update this. In order to heat up the clutch plate I first put it into the oven at 200°F, but that wasn’t enough so I used my blowtorch on it. You only need to heat up the very front of the snout, don’t worry about heating the rear part. Then, place the snout onto the front of the supercharger, if you have the proper heat it should get “stuck” on the front and you can then hammer it on MAKING SURE THE PIN HOLES ARE LINED UP. If you notice the pin holes are crooked pull it off with your pulley puller before it cools down and try again.
The supercharger may feel a little stiff at first with the fresh oil and bearing, but just hook up the rest of your pulleys and attach the belt and after one drive it’ll spin like it used to. It’s just because the supercharger oil is pretty thick and takes time to become more viscous, paired with the fact that there’s no airflow in the engine with it off, so don’t worry if the supercharger feels like it’s spinning harder than it used to, it’ll free up after 1 drive. Other than that, you should have a beautifully running supercharger that isn’t rattling or scraping itself to death. The hardest part is the clutch plate, it’s designed to be impossible to rotate so it basically glued itself to the supercharger when it cools down and contracts.
Link to the bearings: www.ebay.com/itm/NTN-6203-ZZ-...
The video about removing the front clutch plate: • How to remove the clut...