Great to hear! :-)

Perfect Harry - yes, having that dust spot finder layer as a style makes it easy to apply to other images. Just be careful if doing the same with the removal layer, as dust moves (and so does the content of the scene!)

@@Paulreiffer Saving the dust removal layers as a Style, that's what you meant by "Automation." I thought there was some Actions in CaptureOne! Very useful video, thanks.

Not sure where I referenced "automated" in terms of saving as a layer, but no - scripting delivers automation, and there's plenty of it available in Capture One :-)

Firstly I've just meant it similar as Paul answered, just have a style and be able to add it as a layer with all these setting ready. Of course always with a new removal layer. But Automation per script sounds interessting as well, maybe I can have a look at this soon.

Thanks Kevin - glad they've helped!

No worries Judy - look out for the session on User Presets & Styles, landing shortly, which covers how to save such layers and re-use them in future too :-)

Nice work! For those wondering how to do that, the instructions are in the description of the video - and there's a separate guide here too: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iLCCaLB0vd3cgHU.html :-)

Thanks Marcos! Adobe still provides a lot of value in the tools they offer, but as a general rule, the more you can do in your raw processor - the less destructive the result, and the better the image overall :-)

The LCC is great - BUT, it won't always work on any front element dust (*and* you need to make sure your white perspex is perfectly clean - something I've seen people miss before!). Beyond that, if you're using a filter holder (which also have a cast and potential to pick up dust "dings") - you'll struggle to hold that card in from of a heavy setup for the 1-2 minutes worth of exposure you need (trust me, I've tried with my own)... All in all, it's probably an 80-90% job with the white card, but I'd still then want to inspect the image up-close to see the bits it missed. As such, I don't tend to bother, as I'll be inspecting all areas of the image in post anyway.

Yes, so a style only goes onto one layer - BUT... You only need one layer - for the Finder/Scanner. The second layer is the healing layer, which will be unique to every other image :-)

Thanks so much Gail! :-)

Yup, absolutely 👍

Absolutely, yes you can - also take a look at curves too, but just be careful as each image may need a slightly different curve to get the clarity of the spots just right.

@@Paulreiffer thankyou

As of the latest release of Capture One 23, there's an automatic dust spot removal button 👍

Absolutely - and/or a style brush to find them too! :-)

Technically, yes - you could, but be careful if using the healing brush, as if the content of the image changes, the origin points for some of those heals might be slightly off (and picking up elements you don't want to paste over the dust!)

@@Paulreiffer Yes this is the problem when shooting portraits or fashion for fixing spots....any ideas for changing origin points? Spot tool may be better?

Honestly haven’t seen that Urroz, so I’m a little stumped there. At a guess, have you made any changes to the default functions in your Wacom utility? Wondering if it’s a pen pressure or right-click equivalence option that’s enabled somewhere...?

@@Paulreiffer I haven´t touched it. Just assigned some us to the buttons. But Ill check further. I think it has to do more with the pen than with C1 :)

Yeah - it's possible to do it with levels and curves, BUT the curve you need will likely differ from image to image, so this is a safer way of re-using the same method time after time :-)

@@Paulreiffer Sure and understood. I have tried and of course it works a treat. I have created a style from the yuck-delete layer and now I just have to apply the style to a new layer on any image and instant spot finder. Nice!!

I love that we've started an entire movement of "YUCK-DELETE" layers around the world! :-)

@@Paulreiffer Paul, I started to save the YUK layer as a style but noticed that in the list of adjustments to select (in the menu) there is none for clarity or structure. Is this a shortcoming in the user style creation or do I need to make a change in a preference to include as selectable adjustments?

Don't worry Lew - it's under "Details" in the list of checkboxes on the style-save dialog box. If you tick (or expand) that, you'll find Clarity and Structure are copied across. So, select "Exposure" (parent) and "Details" (parent) and you're all set!

Yup - it's in the description of the video ;-)

Hi Max, Yes - absolutely for the finder, you can save it as a User Style and apply to multiple images, and tweak them later :-) For the removal layer, be very, very, careful. If the subject/scene is identical, and nothing at all has changed (not composition, not a thing) then it's probably safe. But remember, the origins of any healing brush will pick up new sources if anything moves at all...

Max: Since you're using sliders from more than one group, you need to create a Style. Presets in C1 only work with one group of sliders. The easiest way to do this is to right-click on your YUCK-DELETE layer and select Save Settings as Style. To use it again on another image, create a new filled layer, label it (YUCK-DELETE) and then right-click and choose Apply Adjustments From/ User Styles/whateveryoucalledthestyle

Thanks Mike - yes, there's also a second way to apply the style and create the layer at the same time on a new image. We updated the description earlier to detail the steps :-)

You’re not allowed to complain until you’ve had a go at removing them from one of my 151mp Phase One files - now THAT hurts! 😂🤦‍♂️ (And check the description, or our video on User Styles for a way of speeding things up 😉)

Absolutely - you can, and you can save the adjustments as a style for the dust-finder layer (make sure you click the boxes next to "Exposure" and "Details" when you do so :-). Just be careful with the actual removal layer, as origin points can move around depending on the content of the actual image - but as you say, if the same image/setup/scene, there shouldn't be any risk!

@@Paulreiffer - Thanks!

Honestly, I'm not a fan of the one-click scenarios. Whether Capture One will release one is up to them, but having used the Lightroom function extensively, I must say I don't like how blunt of a tool it is. Indeed, I've seen the Lightroom tool expose "spots" that weren't actual spots, and on the other hand, sometimes "hide" them in certain situations. Those individual sliders can, and should, be adjusted to suit the image (high ISO at night, low contrast, over-exposed, etc etc). The little tweaks can make finding spots easier or harder, so a blanket tool can't entirely take that into consideration. The option of just setting the layer as a style and applying it to other images means you have, essentially, a two-click Capture One option in future - but more importantly, it's then possible to be further fine-tuned based on the image in question. And yes - the killer "oh crap" moment when you spot a tiny blemish on a huge print is just cruel... ;-)

@Paul Reiffer. Thank you for the reply. The Lightroom visualisation is not one click, the density is variable. Typically I use it at around 70% opacity on fit-to-screen view to see the worst spots, deal with them, then move up to 100% density to deal with the harder to see ones, before going over the image at 100% size view. Usually it is necessary to drop the opacity of the visualisation when checking at 100% size view. The visualisation tool often does not show up spots well in textured areas such as clouds, so I use a method similar to yours as well, which is to examine the image with dehaze pushed up to 100%. All too often, one method shows up spots that the other does not. The tools are complementary, not alternatives. C1 does not have one click dehaze either, although you can get close to it using the tools presently available, but there is no way of emulating the Lightroom threshold-type visualisation. For my use, I could not move over to C1 without the equivalent of Lightroom’s visualisation, it is too fundamental to my workflow for full quality assurance, which is a great pity because I would like to do this.

Here you have an script that do all these steps automatically tell application "Capture One 20" tell layers of primary variant -- create a new layer named dehazeLayer set discoverSpots to make new layer with properties {name:"discoverSpots", kind:adjustment, opacity:100} at end tell discoverSpots fill mask end tell -- create a new layer named Heal Spots set healSpots to make new layer with properties {name:"healSpots", kind:heal, opacity:100} at end tell adjustments of discoverSpots set clarity amount to 65 set clarity method to punch set clarity structure to 65 set contrast to 50 set brightness to -34 set highlight recovery to 100 set saturation to -63 set shadow recovery to 100 end tell end tell end tell

That's one way, Cornellana - you could also save that adjustment setup as a User Style. :-) Here's how to do that: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iLCCaLB0vd3cgHU.html

@Not Disclosed (?!) So, what you've just said is that the Lightroom tool isn't actually sufficient on its own! - [quote] "The (Lightroom) visualisation tool often does not show up spots well in textured areas such as clouds, so I use a method similar to yours as well, which is to examine the image with dehaze pushed up to 100%" Meaning - you're going to end up using a similar method in Lightroom as I'd suggest using in C1 anyway. Hence I don't understand why you feel you need the pointless visualisation tool, if you're going to have to go over the entire image with that secondary process anyway. Why not just start with that process, and get it 100% right (catching ALL dust spots) from the beginning? BUT - that said, if you feel Lightroom is the best tool for your workflow, then genuinely, stick with it. I have no interest in sales ;-)