Lock washers are always a good idea. good tip and reminder.

I have ur 2000 watt monoblock amp running two Audiopipe txx bdc - iv - 12s in a 2008 infiniti m35 wit stock alternator and battery but I'm having problems with my power cables near the inline fuse im running zero gage wire but the wire is getting to hot n starting to melt the wire plastic n turning my copper wires to my power wire grey from getting to hot I was running two battery's but cuz of that issue I'm taking one battery out also my inline fuse was installed on the. Power wire thats in between the two battery's not in between the second battery n amp which I think is wrong n that's were the problem is could u please tell me if I'm correct on that or not n also do i need two battery's to run the amp or no plz help me

N my fuse is 275 amps I think if I member right plz help

wire ferrules are the way to go. Just like solder is for your connections. check out the new butt connectors that include solder for any wire connections. you only need a heat gun and ,makes connecting wires simple but secure.

​@@johannjohann6523 Can I use ferrules on the fuse holder?

My ground wire is 12g and my battery wire is 6g. If you're pushing babywatts, it'll be fine.

Why skimp on the ground??🤨 Just use the same gauge for positive and negative.. If you got 4 lanes of traffic going into the city, common sense would be to have 4 lanes coming out for the best efficiency 😒

I would even say if your car battery terminals are corroded, car audio isn't for you.

I got in the routine of checking connections any time I clean the car or when I check through my lights fluids every couple weeks.

I go through mine before every competition. Even when gone thru often, you'd be amazed how stuff comes loose from the copious amounts of vibration.

@@georgesrisomsak9650 you’re absolutely right about that. My door speakers always rattle loose at the crossover

1. Get the right info about the product you purchased. 2. Read the info mentioned in item 1. 3. In practice, follow the info gleaned on previous steps. 4. People think that tightening as far as possible is an easy solution instead. Not so. Go back to steps 1, 2 and 3. Example, find out the torque setting for your bolts and screws and tighten with torque wrench/screwdriver.

Looks sketchy....

Circuit breakers can tend to drift once they have been tripped. The contacts can build up residue from the arcing. I would not trust them. I'd use a regular fuse. You can still add a circuit breaker along with the fuse if you want a quick way to cut power, though.

I dont think I caught it in this video but in every other video he mentions wiring an amp up or something he does mention the ferrules.

Mirror vibration is difficult. You can try to add a brace close behind the mirror so that it's stabilized at 2 points. Other than that, there's not much you can do.

I put 2 10s under my seat sounds pretty amazing. Loud and low

Circuit breakers can tend to drift once they have been tripped. The contacts can build up residue from the arcing. I would not trust them. I'd use a regular fuse. You can add a circuit breaker along with the fuse if you still want a quick way to cut power, though.

400 watts to the front door speakers? The stock wiring is fine.

Correct, youll end up with a 0.5 ohm load!

@ Secret Squirrel, thanks for the feed back! Happy New Year to you!

The fuse by the amp is to protect the amp. The fuse by the battery is to protect the wire. So if the wire from the battery rubs the metal car body and shorts out, you want the fuse by the battery to burn up before the wire burns up and sets the whole car on fire.

First, you need wire from the battery to the amps that can handle 200 amps easily. Then you add a fuse by the battery that will burn up before the wire catches fire if its shorted. Then split it up and run your 100A fuse just before each amp. So basically, get you a 1/0 copper wire and put a 250A fuse by the battery.

It depends. A lot of stock vehicles can handle 1,000 to 1,500 watts just fine. You have to install it and see if the voltage dips down on heavy bass notes at high volume.

Just need a good circuit breaker that's what I got mine 2 Vieira 444 with five gallon and I got 2 12 inch woofer 2 15 buy got main 300 amp fuse on three amplifier s 200 amp alternator but ever thing runs good

Yes the best option for you is to bridge the amp so you have 2 channels at 200w 4ohm each, and wire the 2 voice coils as separate subs at 4ohm so you get the full 400w. It's better to over wattage a sub than under power it. If it's under powered you have more strain on the amp and more risk of heating things up.

Okay too much detail. Here's a simple car stereo tips for ya. For your amplifier assuming a 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm stable 4 channel amp. if you are running a 2 ohm load on one channel, you want it to be the same for all channels: 2 Ohms. You don't want 4 ohms on one channel and 2 ohms one a 2nd channel. A little trick you can do is to wire a pair of Coaxial 4 ohm door speakers (front and rear passenger say) in parallel and connect those two speakers to a single channel. Then do the same for the driver's side, again two Coaxial 4 ohm speakers. Wiring in parallel will give you a 2 Ohm load. This allows the amp increased power rating to drive the two speakers. Then you want to bridge your channels 3 and 4 and then wire your subwoofer in such a manner that gives you a 2 Ohm load. To help with any kind of wiring configuration I suggest "the12volt.com". It has wiring configurations for both single and dual coil speakers/subs. Plus It is a great resource with many OEM wiring diagrams for many different vehicles to help with your car stereo installation. As you can see, with the tip on wiring coaxial speakers in parallel it allows you to wire 4 speakers to a 2 channel amp as well, and save a little money. Another tip, always match the amp to speakers where the amp is 30-50% more powerful than the speakers - using the gain control to reduce the power output to match your speakers. This allows the amp to run at a reduced power and not work as hard. Less power also means less heat. This helps lengthen the life of the amplifier and your speakers. For a good quality, and very efficient amplifiers that don't break the bank check out Pioneer. Pioneer offers some of the best quality for dollar in both car and home stereo equipment. And Pioneer eqpt. will last. If money is no object, then I recommend Rockford Fosgate. (For high end performance, affordable subs check out Savald Subwoofers, small family owned company in Louisiana.) Rockford is the only true bespoke car stereo manufacturer out there. Their equipment doesn't work for years, it works for decades, and offers great performance. Some of the best regardless of price. With Sundown and Down4Sound also being 2 other high end quality manufacturers. Good luck, and keep on rocking! (PS. Always use OFC copper wire for power cables!).

Lastly, it's good to only provide 80-90% of RMS wattage to your speakers and subs to make sure you don't have any issues of distortion or blowing the speakers or subs.

I've wondered just how dependable those fuses were... knock on wood I have had to tighten terminals but thankfully issues on mine yet.

@@micahblack454 in my experience the ones that claim to be over 140amps would melt. The posts would melt and they would get so hot they would trip them selves but the 140amp ones and below I have, have been going strong for over a year now. I replaced the ones that were melting with regular ANL fuses and it works perfectly, even the same terminals on the ends of the wires so it had to be the circuit breakers or "resettable fuses"

Circuit breakers can tend to drift once they have been tripped. The contacts can build up residue from the arcing. I would not trust them. I'd use a regular fuse. You can add a circuit breaker along with the fuse if you still want a quick way to cut power, though.

Circuit breakers can tend to drift once they have been tripped. The contacts can build up residue from the arcing. I would not trust them. I'd use a regular fuse. You can add a circuit breaker along with the fuse if you still want a quick way to cut power, though.

Get a water proof holder.

There is not much difference at all. Its just different circuit designs. Class D is more efficient and runs cooler. Most amps are moving to this style.

Circuit breakers can tend to drift once they have been tripped. The contacts can build up residue from the arcing. I would not trust them. I'd use a regular fuse. You can add a circuit breaker along with the fuse if you still want a quick way to cut power, though.

@@JasonWW2000 thank you. Do you think that if I have my electrical all set up like my 320 alt and 2 battery on a cab 45 and one xmax american bass 1511

@@fredlott384 Are you asking if your setup looks good? I'd say it does. A cab 45 might draw 500 amps, but only if the sub is wired to 0.5 ohm and you play a sine wave at full volume. If it's wired to 1 ohm it's not going to draw as much amperage, maybe 250A at most. On music it will always draw a lot less amperage. So depending on which sub you have and how it's wired is going to have a large effect on how much amperage you're actually going to draw from your electrical system. Then there's also the matter of how much voltage dip you want. If you push the amp hard your obviously going to get voltage sag. How much is acceptable to you will determine if two lead acid batteries is enough. For bumping on the street to music it will probably be fine. For burping in a competition the voltage sag might be too much. So there are a lot of factors. What is your sub going to be wired to and how are you going to use your system?

For my Skar 1500.1 D with 1ohm final load with dual Skar 10" subbox I use a 150 amp fuse. It runs 1600 rms 2300 pk at 1 ohm. Not a single issue. You have a RP 2000.1D. That requires a 200 amp fuse.

And you need larger gauge wire. That amp requires 1/0 gauge. No wonder it kept blowing.

Just use 0 gauge.

Skyhighcaraudio

Mark has an older video on his channel about mounting door speakers. A few of the important things are making sure the window won't hit the back of the speaker, making sure it will fit in the hole for the speaker (if there's a speaker hole in your door), and using weather resistant materials (good plastic) if you need to make a mounting adapter.

@@luchvk much appreciated, ty

Consult CRUTCHFIELD

@@TexasBig will do, thanks!

I mean a 2000 watt mono block from ct sounds*

Circuit breakers can tend to drift once they have been tripped. The contacts can build up residue from the arcing. I would not trust them. I'd use a regular fuse. You can add a circuit breaker along with the fuse if you still want a quick way to cut power, though.

@@JasonWW2000 Arcing circuit breakers is still a thing? For DC (and certain AC circuits), that can be stopped by having a small capacitor across the connection. In any case, I can't say that I've ever run into that issue.

@@Grommet2007 When they open it can arc. I don't think it's preventable. Then you have a bit of carbon on the contacts. That leads to heat and the contacts can melt together. It seems to happen a lot after just one or two circuit trips. I'm just sharing my findings. If I wanted a quick easy way to shut off power I'd run a circuit breaker, but I'd also always run a traditional fuse. You can take it with a grain of salt. Just my opinion. I figured I'd share my opinion and you can look into it and see if you think its worth adding a traditional fuse. Peace. 👍

@@JasonWW2000 The circuit breaker I used in my car for the last decade seems to be a pretty sealed one, so no corrosion due to arcing or otherwise. It worked fine up until I replaced it with a smaller circuit breaker this year (I'd over-estimated my current requirements, so after a few peak current measurements with a clamp-ammeter, I decided to downsize it). The circuit breakers rated as waterproof would definitely be sealed, so arcing should be a non-issue. OTOH, prior to that I've experienced at least two occasions where a power fuse and its holder melted because corrosion on the contacts for the fuse lead to the situation you described. It was one of the main reasons I switched to using circuit breakers instead, the other being that circuit breakers provide a much easier way to shut off power, something I would want to do quickly if any of my amps show signs of releasing their magic smoke :-). A parallel capacitor is an easy fix if concerned with arcing when it opens, but I've never run into that issue.

Yes it’s fine to use it’s just not as quality as ofc it will work just fine I’ve used it for years with no issues at all. I use ofc now but cca is perfectly fine to use

You just need 50% bigger CCA to match copper. They say the aluminum will degrade over time if exposed to water. It will turn to powder. So use heatshrink with glue in it to seal the ends.

Your wiring is corroded.

😂

Sounds like too big of a fuse for 500 watts. You needed a 50 amp fuse. I use a 80amp fuse with my 400wt rms/800 pk 4 channel. You had zero protection.

@@VirtuousWarrior-wr2fv you are right I did the research and the place who installed it basically tried breaking my stuff so I’d come back again but I’m the type to do it myself if it ain’t done right😂