Thank you! That was a very popular video 😜

Thank you Diana! I really appreciate this and I hope I helped you on your journey. And hehe, thank you for the comment about my voice. It’s always weird to hear yourself.

Agreed

Thanks a lot Diana! Welcome to my channel 😉

Thank you SO much for the feedback Susan! I truly appreciate it. And thank you for subscribing. It means a lot. As you can see, I only recently started editing my videos, trying to improve my channel to be more informative and hopefully helpful. I hadn't even noticed the fact about the aussie floetrol picking up the other colors in the lacing until I started narrating. The biggest surprise to me, after I received the aussie and the US floetrol is really how thick the European floetrol is. Suddenly several of my mishaps make sense! I tried using Kathleen Miller's recipe for the CA, and mixed 1:3 while adding minwax, but I wasn't really getting good results, or at least AS good results. Today it became clear that the consistency plays a huge part as well. Once again. I thank you so much for the feedback and you becoming a subscriber.

Thank you 🙏🏻

Great to hear! I’m happy if I can help.

You are so welcome!

Thank you so much Avantina! I really appreciate your feedback.

You’re very welcome! I am happy to help where I can.

You are so welcome!

Thanks again Friedo. 😀

Thank you Kim! I appreciate your feedback, and I am glad if my video was helpful.

Thank you Brian. It certainly seems to get quite a few views. 😜

@@JanCArt that's a great video to view too.

Thank you! Much appreciated!

Thank you Genene!

Thank you Ellen! I hope the video is helpful.

Glad if I can help!

@@JanCArt kiss from poland😗😗😗

Thank you. I am very happy that my experiments and results can help you!

Thank you for the feedback Kathy! Glad you enjoyed it! This is only my second video where I actually make a voice over, so it has been a little daunting. I personally felt that I was babbling, so I am very glad to hear that you found it to be informative!

Thank you!

Thank you! Glad you found it useful.

Yeah, I have seen penetrol being used. I am not going to try that. I am fine with using Australian floetrol or Amsterdam PM for creating cells. And I have also learned that I can create cells merely by swiping with Amsterdam paint mixed with my regular PM.

Gracias

Thank you so much Stacy. I am happy you found this helpful! As I said in the video, I will soon be trying to apply resin on the pieces. I am hoping I won't need the tedious cleaning process needed when you use silicone, but I am afraid that will be needed. Will soon post the results. Today I will be uploading a video where I use the Australian Floetrol on a piece. After the swipe I will then try the marble technique on it. Stay tuned, and enjoy your own journey :)

@@JanCArt will look forward to the next one!

@@stacymekovich2424 hey Stacy. I uploaded the latest video last night. Do let me know what you think. I personally am not THAT thrilled about the outcome.

I’m sorry, I don’t understand and sadly I cannot copy your text to google translate.

@@JanCArt A very good experiment. I like the 3rd attempt with the European Floetrol the best. Thanks for the video. So I translated. :) I am from Poland.

@@honorata2412 thank you!

My pleasure! I know how important it is to learn this. I was very surprised with the difference.

Thank you Regina! I’m happy you found it useful.

Base color was a Goya acrylic paint, so no house paint used in these tests. And sorry for the late response. I have been in Denmark the last 5 days.

Thanks a bunch!

I bought the minwax prestain on Amazon. I’m in Germany. I’m pretty sure it was sent from Poland.

Thank you very much Hussain. What a wonderful message to get! I can’t tell you what I’m doing right 🤣. Obviously I have had a few pours that I scrapped because they didn’t turn out the way I wanted them, maybe you’re only seeing my best 😜. No, in all honesty, I have really only scrapped a few. Regarding resin I have a feeling that tiles might be different to work with. I have only worked on canvasses. Sometimes the resin runs off the edges too much, and they are only covered with a thin layer, not like the rest, that looks like a piece of glass. When that happens I apply another coat of resin, which solves that problem. I normally put tape around my pieces when I resin them, creating a wall the resin can rest against. Then shortly before it has cured too much, I remove the tape and let the resin run over the edges. I apply the left over resin from my cup to the sides with my gloves hands. Yesterday I tried a new technique where I poured the resin on and used my gloves hands to spread it over the piece. This morning I see that I have that exact problem: edges are not covered with the same amount as the rest of the canvas. So I’ll have to reapply today.

@@JanCArt Thank you Jan for a quick reply. Tomorrow I am going to try the swipe painting using the Australian Floetrol. I hope you use the open cup technique first to spread the colour on the canvas and then use the spetulla with Floetrol to give me the cells.... Hope it works out. Comming to the ceramic tile. You have given me a good hint. To tape the tiles from all sides so the resin cannot fall off. I will try this and see if it works 🙏🙏

Pouring.shop. And thank you so much!

Yes I have made a video where I try out the minwax: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f6t6q8h2vKiYlqc.html. Also check out my latest video. Amsterdam Pouring Medium works just as well as the Australian floetrol! And it's easier and cheaper to get hold of in Europe - so I am happy :)

@@JanCArt thank you, thank you and again. 😀

It’s the regular. I have not tried the water based and don’t know that I will now that I have Australian floetrol AND Amsterdam pouring medium (which works just as well as Aussie floetrol).

Hi Alicia. I had made another video where I measure how much water needs to be added to the Owatrol and Flood Floetrol to get the same consistency as the AU Floetrol. I don’t remember the measures from the top of my head, but I’ll link the video here. In the description on this video you’re right, I didn’t list the amount, I just said: US & EU floetrol mixed with water to same consistency as the AU and then added 10 drops of minwax Pre-Stain. 3ml paint, 9 ml Floetrol.

This video tells you the measures to thin the Owatrol: EU Floetrol vs US Floetrol vs AU Floetrol Consistency Is Key kzfaq.info/get/bejne/paiPZpl5xt3HqKc.html

May many thanks for your answer! I have never used AU Floetrol so I have no idea how it looks like 😋 I will check the video !

@@liciaflorio9969 it’s extremely thin. And the US Floetrol is thin too, compared to the AU one. Check this 29 second vid for instance: MUST SEE! Major difference! Consistency test between Australian, US and European floetrol. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oceImbWJuLmvoWg.html

Yes, that’s definitely why you don’t get the same results, the consistency is key. I have another video from way back to, where I compare EU/US/AU Floetrol and in the description I list my findings of how much water you need to add in the thicker floetrols to get the AU consistency. Bear in mind though, that there’s something else in the AU floetrol that creates cells much easier. Nobody knows what it is. The minwax I was able to order back then from Poland. I think I found it on Amazon, but I honestly can’t remember as it was 3 years ago.

This is the video I’m talking about: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/paiPZpl5xt3HqKc.html

@@JanCArt Thanks, I'm doing it by grams but now I know how to start comparing, so think I'll do it now when I have the 2 different floetrol at home

Hi. Yes, colors mixed like the base coat.

@@JanCArt many thanks for your answer. Thanks for resting and sharing your findings

Thank you! Mine is the red one 😂 oil based. I must admit that since I made this video I only used the min wax pre-stain a few times because I started relying on the Australian Floetrol Or Amsterdam pouring medium for making cells. To me it’s a much easier mix to work with. But the answer is: mine is oil based.

@@JanCArt thanks so much 🙂.

Thank you :)

Well actually since I made that video, I have also tried the Amsterdam pouring medium which works just as well as the Aussie floetrol. Check out these videos, where I use it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d7F6l62BvZvHhX0.html and kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o86ehsVkxJuznIE.html. I will be posting a video a little later today where I use the aussie floetrol again, but more or less the same colors as my latest video (the collaboration with Nik).

And the Amsterdam pouring medium seems easier to get.

Thank you.

Thank you. And yeah, it’s expensive, but it’s worth it. You need so little! My first half liter bottle I bought well over a year ago is still not anywhere near empty.

Thank you. To be honest, I haven’t used the minwax since I made this experiment. I have started using Australian floetrol or Amsterdam pouring medium instead. I’m not 💯 sure what it’s called, but it’s the red jar, if that helps.

@@JanCArt thank you so much! Regarding australian floetrol, I'm not going to use it because I live in France, so not available here, or shipping via Germany but too expensive. But can you tell me what about Amsterdam pouring medium vs european floetrol??? erdam pou

Amsterdam pouring medium cells up like Australian floetrol. It’s thinner than European floetrol. I have actually made a comparison video: Cell Activator Comparison|Australian Floetrol & Amsterdam PM kzfaq.info/get/bejne/asumfcJ6mt-2pWw.html

@@JanCArt thank you Jan, you're great!!!

Thank you. To be honest with you, this video was made two years ago, and I haven’t used minwax since. Now I use Australian floetrol or Amsterdam pouring medium in my swipe paints. It is also possible to get cells by swiping while using thinner paints, as you’ll see in some of my newer videos.

@@JanCArt ok. I also use Australian Floetrol but it is so hard to get this now. I also have Amsterdam medium but it is so thick. I have maybe to try to make it thinner ... Do you know where in Germany is available Floetrol ? By the way are you german?

@@susanfu6883 I’m Danish but live in Berlin. The Australian floetrol I have bought on pouring.shop. Yes it’s expensive, but 1/2 liter has lasted me years. The Amsterdam PM is much thicker yes, but can be thinned with water and still works. If you buy on pouring.shop do NOT get the “Australian style” items. It’s simply floetrol with minwax or something similar added. It stinks, and it doesn’t work (for me). Get the Aussie trol 1/2 L bottle. It’s 34,95€, but like I said, it lasts forever.

@Jan C Art ah ok. I still have a little Floetrol from my bottle of the last year ... lol. Then I will contact the pouring shop. Thank you. By the way I am german but I live in Italy. Have a nice day !! Thank you for all.

Hi Paula. I am thrilled that you found this video useful. First of all: I wouldn't pay that much more for the US Floetrol as well. I only bought a small bottle to make these comparisons. The US Floetrol is known for having big lumps in it, and must always be strained before you use it. I have seen some people suggest that maybe if you shake it, the lups will disappear. They won't! Yes - if you want the same consistency as the US or AU Floetrol, you must thin it considerably with water. The AU Floetrol is the thinnest. It appears that the AU Floetrol also has some ingredient that generates the cells, that is why most people (outside of AU) mostly use it in their Cell Activators. If you only use it as a CA, a small 1/2 L bottle goes a VERY long way! The minwax Pre-stain: I only used that for a very short period of time. It basically works the same way as silicone oil. It does help generate cells, but I really do't like using it, cause just as with silicone, you need to clean your paintings thoroughly after, if you want to add resin. Resin will shy away from silicone and minwax, so it has to be removed 100% from the surface. There's also speculations that silicone can sit under the paint and eventually make the paint peel off the canvas. Now I do not know if this is true, but I have only used silicone on a few of my first paintings. Both silicone and minwax do make a difference, but they can be obtained with AU Floetrol or Amsterdam Pouring Medium much easier. The paints I used back when I made this video were all of a thicker consistency, like for instance the Amsterdam regular paints. So a heavier body. I have since started using Golden Fluid paints as well. And although they are crazy expensive, you really don't need much as they are extremely pigmented. If you are looking at getting cells/lacing, I suggest that you check out the Amsterdam Pouring Medium. This works just as well as the Australian Floetrol. It is cheaper and easier to get in Europe than the AU Floetrol. And if you only use it in your CA, it will go a long way as well. I made a comparison video using the AU Floetrol and Amsterdam Pouring Medium that I think you cold find useful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/asumfcJ6mt-2pWw.html Thanks again for reaching out. I hope this helps you!

@@JanCArt Hi Jan, thank you so much for getting back to me, and so promptly! I will check out that other video, thank you. I really appreciate the time you took to give me am informative and lengthy response. I'm sure I'll be back to tell you about all my cells in due course!!! 🙂

@@PaulaReacts and don’t give up! 😉

@@JanCArt oh no, I won't!!! 🙂

Thank you. The paints are mixed like the base coat. 1 part paint, 3 parts PM and 0,5 part water, depending on the consistency of the paint you use. For Amsterdam that is roughly how I mix them. Yes they were mixed like that and sitting in the bottles for a long time.

The Malverk PM i use US a Little thicker than the Owatrol, so the water ratio may differ slightly, depending on what technique you’re doing.

​​@@JanCArt many thanks Jan , much appreciated....I guess the base coat, the white pillow it will be always a bit thinner than the other colors , is that right ? In order to allow the colors to run towards the edges . Or the white base , pillow, is thicker in consistency ? I would like to try the australian Shelee bloom , but with Owatrol and hopefully will get close results

​@@JanCArt I am so thrilled to hear that paints can be kept for months in bottles , ready mixed with Owatrol and little water. I thought it will be OK just for a few weeks , max a month

@@Alex-wj9ho It really depends on the technique. The technique I used here, the only thinner paint was the cell activator.

Thank you Clara! I am ecstatic that you found it helpful! About minwax in Europe: I found it on amazon.de in February. I can see that it is unavailable right now sadly. If I am not mistaken it was sent from Poland. I just tried googling it, and stumbled over a water based minwax Pre-Stain, which I would be interested in trying out. However that is also unavailable on Amazon.de. I did find it on ebay for 23,10€ (+10€ in shipping). I paid 10€ for my minwax, but it was only 236ml, so in comparison this water based one is much cheaper. www.ebay.de/itm/264586891913?hash=item3d9a9b9289:g:RDIAAOSwO5lfamAh . It IS almost one liter. But who needs a liter? You only use a few drops. I will wait and see if my resined pieces work out with the minwax I have. I just resined the pieces you saw in this video. I will post a video of the results latest next week.

@@JanCArt omg! You are very, very kind... thank you so much for your answer and for the search you made! I live in Portugal, and I have to find something similar! There is no way only minwax works! :D I have to find untinted paint as well. Nobody knows what it is around here... Thank you so much, and keep up the excellent work (and kindness!)

@@claramadeira1943 my pleasure I'm sure Clara. Happy hunting! Always happy to help where I can.

No. It’s in the description. I make the floetrols the same consistency with water first.: CA: Amsterdam Oxide black mixed with AU, US, EU floetrol. 1:3. US & EU floetrol mixed with water to same consistency as the AU and then added 10 drops of minwax Pre-Stain. 3ml paint, 9 ml Floetrol.

@@JanCArt Thank you!

@@joeycasey2323 Sorry - I hadn't noticed your question about the base coat. No - I used: Malverk Basics PM. It's a German equivalent to the Owatrol (EUropean floetrol).

Thank you! Much appreciated!

I don’t have the measurements from the top of my head, but I made a comparison video where you can see it: EU Floetrol vs US Floetrol vs AU Floetrol Consistency Is Key kzfaq.info/get/bejne/paiPZpl5xt3HqKc.html

@@JanCArt thank you so so much

Hej Gitte. Tusinde tak. Er glad for at du kunne bruge videoen :). Jeg kan faktisk heller ikke engang få minwax Pre-Stain i Tyskland. Fandt det online til forsendelse fra Polen! Jeg må desværre sige, at jeg ikke ved, hvad du kan anvende i stedet. Det er en wood conditioner, så jeg vil umiddelbart mene det er det samme som træimprægnering. Det skal blive interessant at se, om Resin vil samarbejde med det. Jeg er ret bange for, at det ikke vil, og så er jeg ikke sikker på jeg vil komme til at bruge det meget. Jeg bruger af samme grund ikke silicone. Man kan selvfølgelig vælge bare at bruge en gloss varnish, men nogle af mine værker ser bare meget bedre ud med resin.

@@JanCArt Nåh ja - det har du da fuldstændig ret i.. det kan være det samme problem som med siliconen.. det siges, at det heller ikke nemt at bruge resin på.. mine billeder er dog “naturel” indtil videre - men bryder mig i forvejen ikke om de fordybninger siliconen indimellem laver.. venter spændt på aussie floetrol - den kommer formentligt allerede på tirsdag 🎉🎉 Ha en skøn kreativ aften ☺️

@@gittehansen2550 Resin og silicone er "a pain in the...."! Det ER muligt, men man skal godt nok gøre grundigt rent først. Det er endnu ikke lykkedes mig IKKE at skulle lægge et ekstra lag resin på dem med silicone. Det gode er, at man KAN lægge ovenpå. Man skal bare slibe det første lag, gøre endnu mere grundigt rent, sikre sig at AL silicone er væk, og så bare lægge et nyt lag. Det er chokerende at skulle slibe, men tro mig, ridserne er pist væk, når man har lagt andet lag ovenpå.

I mixed the colors like I mixed the base coat: paint:Malverk Basics PM:Water 1:3:0,5. So 1 pt paint, 3 pt Malverk PM, 0,5 pt water.

What is Malverk PM? Is it available in the States?@@JanCArt

@@kateeoyler1416​​⁠sadly not available in the US. It’s a German equivalent to Floetrol, but it is much thicker. If you have the US Floetrol, you’d likely not need to add water to your mix as the US Floetrol is much thinner than Malverk.

Thanks so much that’s a relief!

pouring.shop/australian-style/ Du solltest die Aussie-trol kaufen nicht die “Australian Style”!!!

@@JanCArt vielen Dank ! Warum nicht das Australien style ? Kann man das Pouring Medium nutzen ? Oder ist das auch nicht so gut ? Ich tue mich da echt schwer mit ! Nutze im Moment das owetrol zum mischen meiner farben und für den Cell Activator. Schönen Sonntag noch und Danke für die Info ! Gruß Torsten

@@Gedanken-Kraft Australian style ist eine billige Kopie, es ist im Grunde nur normales Floetrol mit einem Zusatz, ich vermute Minwax pre-stain. Es riecht und wirkt nicht wie australisches Floetrol.

@@JanCArt ok danke !!!

I buy the Aussie floetrol on pouring.shop. Please get the correct one. They make a cheap copy, but it’s NOT the same.

@@JanCArt Thanks for your great explanation... Is the correct one called Aussie-Trol in a 0.5 litres bottle?

@@GILSAN123 yes, it’s the 1/2 liter bottle you want.

@@JanCArt Thanks... I contacted them, but unfortunately they do not ship Aussie-Trol to Madeira Island, Portugal...

@@GILSAN123 sorry to hear that.

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