Found the dad.

I don’t care

@@RicardoPerez-fd7bh so why did you reply?

@@koneko_469 to tell him that I didn’t care

@@RicardoPerez-fd7bh ratio + fatherless + no friends + yoi got bullied

@@RicardoPerez-fd7bh Schmuck!

Probably depends on the bearings a lot. These shields would definitely risk snapping a knife blade, really were quite stubborn. If they come out less destructively, I could see them being salvageable. But I wouldn't use them in applications where it would cause any sort of failure or safety issues if the seal came off. Like if this was bearings inside a power tool or something. I wouldn't trust a re-crimped shield to stay on with 100% reliability.

@@LongboardTechnology I've done this successfully over the years with no problems. The ''crimping'' is just a form of press fitting for mass production. Since you're replacing the shield by hand, you're not under the time constraints of producing 100's a minute like a factory is.

Haven't managed to make 3D printed shields work.

Its a Prusa MK3, the bed is brand spanking new though, this is only my third print on it.

The bearings in cooling fans tend to use different style of bearings, often just plain bearings which wouldn't have shields at all. If its more loud than it should be, It most likely would be easiest to get a replacement fan, in PC's that's 100% the way to go all the time. IDK if the One S fan is so easy to get a hold of though. On my one S, I did try putting some grease in the fan bearing, but it really didn't really do much.

@@LongboardTechnology well lucky me i think i found out a better way then removing the side sheilds. long story short i realized my cooling fan had two sets of worn out bearings in it. i havested some fresh ones from other PC fans i had laying around and now the noise is back down to a near quite hum. also replaced the metal retention gascit with a plastic one. but hey thanks for ur thaughts

You should probably use acetone or alcohol to clean. Just make sure they are totally dry if you're using wd-40 to clean. Since it's water based can rust your bearings longtime

Wd40 you mean? That works fine for cleaning, but probably more expensive than other alternatives which will be just as effective. WD40 also has some mineral oil as a lubricant it leaves behind, which may dilute the nicer bones lube a tiny bit. Id say it probably works just fine if you wanted to keep doing that, but can easily do a little better.

@@LongboardTechnology what about the silicone wd40?

I can get away with going overboard a bit for a few reasons, firstly I'm only putting the shield on the one side. Secondly this is for skate, so its a much more forgiving application. But yes, normally you'd want to not just use a random amount.

Yes, but there won't be anything to keep the dirt out. That may be fine depending on what you're doing, or it might mean they get worn really fast.

@@LongboardTechnology Thank you. That is no issue for me, as long as they dont fall apart without shields.

Wait what

@@jahshaygrant7652 well he's put a big dent in them

Because it largely doesn't have any effect as other factors come into play which limits your speed first, like air resistance. It matters a lot less when going fast, but it does begin to matter when doing low speed stuff like long distance push, dance, or flatland skate. Also, the grease I use doesn't have a very large effect on roll speed either compared to what other greases might do. I take a small, but negligible hit on my speed, but in exchange for much better protection against dust, dirt, water, and wear.

Lubricant will run away, grease is oil and a binder usually soap and it keeps the oil in place.

They seem to have a metal surface on the inner side.

@@dunbustin well shoot that make sense. I did print and tested with PLA, it seems doing okay.

I think these are standard d8xD22xB7 mm bearings (inner diameter X outer diameter X width).

I had really only just started 3D printing when I made this video, and hadn't use TPU yet, but that's not a bad idea. Not sure it will work, the brim of rubber shields are really thin, and the rubber is cast around brass to make it stiff, still could be doable though.

i didn't realize they had washers underneath saw it after you pointed out looks like copper washers. not sure why brass or copper washer is there tho. can you pls check if it contacts the washer when it turns? they wouldn't put those there for no reason those washers are more expensive than the seal itself : ) still 3d printable tho try with what you got doesn't have to be tpu whats to lose? i think its best to use 2 material here a washer from pla abs petg whatever you have or metal washers if needed and the seal itself from not so flexible hard tpu like 90a or similar. it is perfectly 3d printable just needs some trial and error. i have some small zz ones needs attention but those metal caps are problematic as it seems they will need replacement seals for sure. i will try to print some later as well

The washers are really thin, almost more like a foil. Definitely not going to be that expensive. I'm sure they're there to stiffen to seal and help ensure the seal stays away from the balls and cage. I've had a few cheap sealed bearings that were just solid rubber, and they seemed pretty junky. My biggest reservation with printing seals is that the groove the seal is supposed to fit in is very thin, so we're talking really thin layers and possible slight overhangs with a particularly slow and difficult material to print with. It does seem possible, but how finicky would it be to do?

cant be that hard. try when you are bored and got nothing better to do. different designs different materials different settings etc its small enough part to experiment quickly. at worst it wont work and you will learn a lot about your printer materials settings and designing parts with clearance : ) don't expect it to work the first time and hope for that. that wont improve you at all... check out other ppls works for reference and ideas i saw a guys work on thingyverse for metal clipped ones i guess he had a openscad custom writing seal design you may like that kinda thing dunno the point is go experiment you got nothing to lose have fun