Great explanation! Thanks for making this video.. I think i made the same "goof" while installing my clutch recently. Im gonna go over my judder springs now that I learned about this.

I don't know if it's going to work out yet or not the information I got from this video, but I have high hopes it will. Yeah possibly just saved me a lot of wasted time trying to figure this one out and keeping me from messing my bike up. I got me a 1985 Honda magna 500 v30 that I've been putting a lot of work and money into. Thanks for the good information. Keep it coming y'all

An absolute superb video! You guys rock! These tips are pure gold! If I had only known a couple of years earlier 😔. I thought the Haynes manual was all I needed 👎🏼 I messed it up the first time I did a clutch stack job on my then 20 year old Suzuki Katana 600 .. she never shifted gears smoothly ever again, even after I went back in and corrected (after watching this vid I now realise that only some of ) the mistakes I've made ... Hopefully, I'll get it right and in fully working order the first time this time on my 2016 GSX1250FA .. parts ordered, fingers crossed, as I'm planning to replace all 3 needle bearing kits too and not just the friction&steel plate stack, so the basket is coming out. (60000km/38000 miles on the clock) Thank you!

I had the lining up issue with the outer hub, on my c2 zx9r, and could not work out why my new clutch wasn't working! great video!

Thank you. Great video.

thanks for this video it realy helped me out ! greetz from amsterdam

Best explanation video I've found so far, thank you so much! Concaved rings were deff an issue I ran into. Doing 08 cbr1k. Got it all replaced and back together, started the bike and kicked it into first. Wouldn't move, released the clutch while still in gear and the bike didn't even stall. Lol ripped it all apart and ended up dropping a spring inside the freaking oil pan. Not I gotta remove pipes and oil pan. Then figure out wtf I did wrong with the clutch. I will absolutely be back in these comments, any help/tips are appreciated as I have no clue wtf I'm doing lol

Thanks man! ❤

Excelente video hermano, saludos desde México, se ve cuando alguien sabe hacer su trabajo y aunque las pastas hayan estado lubricadas desde nuevas, lo hayas hecho una vez más, bendiciones

I soak all my fractions in bikes and auto transmissions. Can't tell me otherwise!

Amazing how the Honda manuals are so vague. Most KZfaq videos don’t even mention these springs

Great video ❤

Después de quitar y poner el clutch tres veces y tres días de ver videos el de ustedes me ayudo a hacerlo bien< muchas GRACIAS .after taking the clutch off and putting it on three times and three days of watching videos, yours helped me get it right < THANK YOU

Thank you!!

Fantastic video! So helpful. Quick question I have the same bike and I’m doing the clutch right now. The clutch rod is sticking to far out now so the pressure plate will not seat correctly. Ever see that before?

Thanks for this! Very clear explanation!

On my ebc clutch kit, it's basically oem plus, same parts you have 2007 cbr1000rr. The only thing is that larger diameter friction plates, the one that goes over the jutter spring. I have 2 friction plates that are the same one as the one friction plate that goes over the jutter spring. What do I do with the 2nd friction plant that is direct from the other ones? Will it be the 2nd friction plate or last? Just bit sure where the 2nd larger inside diameter friction plate goes?

Hi guys, gret video and thank you for focusing it and explaining the clutch install so well! You may have saved my bacon here! I have just installed a new gearbox in my RR4 2004 CBR1000rr. Since then, the clutch was slipping around 5000rpm range. So I have just installed a new clutch including plates and springs using all honda parts, no race or 3rd party parts. I put in 7100 Motul 10w40 oil. Ive completely bled the clutch and cleaned the piston in the slave cylinder. Ive even flused out the oil with a flush agent and gone back to a semi Synth 10w40 Liqui Moly. However, clutch still slipping. But your video shows what I did not do and that was to put the last plate to the next position on the inner wheel. So I am going to replace this. So if I put the last plate in the same channel as all the other clutch discs, would this cause the slip? Thanks again Guys! Great Videos!

I have a 2007 honda cbr1000rr The clutch will not engage, I can see the friction plates opening when I pull the clutch in but it's still not engaging. The center clutch hub will not spin freely either if i put any amount of torque on it while the bike is in neutral. Coming from the diagram, All the washers are there. The guy I got the bike from stated his old mechanic rebuilt the entire bike and could never figure out the issue.

Hey bro. Thanks for your videos, I rebuild the engine of my 2005 Yamaha yzf R1 but my clutch is not working, and I did it step by step, but it doesn't work. Do you have any idea about that problem?

So biggest friction plate in 1st which receives both judder springs with flatter of the 2 in first followed by the curved judder spring (here is that curved side going in first or front flat side of the curved judder spring goes in first with curved portion facing you or flat side daces you curved end first into basket ) ..then steel plate; friction plate ; steel plate like that your saying?

If the judder spring was put in backwards by mistake would that cause it to slip or make it hard to put in gear

How many steel plates how many fibers?

Thanks guys great explanation and video I own a 06 R1.. Replaced My clutch with a bike bandit clutch last year I got rid of my jutter Spring and now my Clutch don't seem right might have to reorder my jutter Spring and put it back together even though a bike bandit says to get rid of it..Any Reply..or thoughts on this.?

Thanks for posting this video as it’s exactly the one I’ve been hoping to see. This is incredibly useful! I’m having troubles with a Honda CB1300 clutch and thought it had something to do with this. The shop manual isn’t helpful on this at all. The judder spring info is priceless as is the final install of the spring plate into correct meshing. It’s all so obvious when explained properly but anything can be easy when you know how! Subscribed! 👍🏻

I’ve got a 2011 1000rr. I have everything out but the basket. It seems to be binding on something on the right side as well as part of the casing on the left. It won’t come straight out. Any tips?

If last plate is installed incorrectly would that cause the bike to stall out when put in first gear

Only the friction plates are soaked in oil and how long is that process before you install rhem into bike ? And none of steel plates are soaked correct ?

Great Video - there definitely seems to be alot of disinformation and debate about which way the orientation of the judder spring should go. So if i am understanding correctly the judder spring should be shaped like a dish if i am looking at it. This matches up with the manual (concave side out) but man alot of people - discussion boards etc have it the other way around. I can see why there is confusion . Even in this video if you look at the diagram at the 2:00 Minute Mark it shows the Judder Spring as being cone shaped out which is the opposite of what the rest of the video says. Still Confused?

The thin steel plate goes where first??

WHAT ABOUT THINNER STEEL PLATE

Is this universal for all sports bikes

Great information on the clutch for Kawasaki I've been doing mine wrong.😏👍🏽

Is this bike a 2007 CBR 1000rr?

Why would anyone even OPEN a clutch cover without understanding these things? These aren't "tips"; this is just how the mechanism is assembled.

How is it possible that the jutter spring shifted when it's ID is the same as the outside of the basket? There's no room to shift in any direction.