I’ve been running their Level 1 clutch and light weight flywheel on an FM1 240tq engine for two years and it is so nice and drivable. I’m working on a built block now and their Level 2 will be going on it for sure. Seriously, don’t hesitate-it’s completely worth it.

That thumbnail is legendary

Its like you make these videos just for miata owners ;) In all honesty the knowledge you provide is useful for any vehicle. Im entirely self taught and i still feel like an apprentice mechanic but i find everything you talk about insightful.

Another reason to replace the clutch assembly is if the throw out bearing starts to growl upon pressing in the clutch. My NB started earlier this summer and I bought a kit. Once my mechanic had changed out the parts I got a look at the OEM disk and I was shocked to see that after 145k miles the disk looked like brand new. I did go with the 10 pound flywheel but the 6 puck disk on my stock setup. My choice as I might chose to upgrade the motor later. Though a miner adjustment for me to street drive it I am happy with my choice. Thank you guys for your wonderful and well explained videos you take the time to make.

Though I'm not a MX-5 owner, your highlighting not starting an engine w/the clutch pedal depressed is a valid one -especially when an engine has not been stated for quite some time.. Also, when stopped at a traffic light or similar 'hold-ups,' engage the handbrake and place the gear shift into N and remove foot from clutch pedal. This helps in avoiding premature ware on the gearbox internals.

Love these videos!!!

Oh whoa, didn't know stage 1 could handle the modest FM turbo. Just got the stage 1 too :)

Not to pedantic, but you really don't want to use carb cleaner for a clutch/brake job. Carb cleaner has some lubricants in it for the carb throttle shafts. Brake cleaner has no lubricants and dries without a residue.

My NB I just jumped the two plugs with a wire, easy and cheap to by pass clutch. The clip is fine if you won't want to mess with making a short wire to jump the plug.

I could not find that clutch clip to disable the starter switch for the NC Miata. Do you guys don't sell it for the NC? Or is the NC not prone to have this premature wear when you start it? thanks in advance.

Any problems or quicker wear with clutch kicks?

After break in period, I had problems disengaging the clutch. For months we could not find was wrong, and then, we finally found the problem. My clutch pedal had cracked at the sidewall weld spot. Flyin' Miata was patient and very helpful trying to help us diagnose the problem. If you install the Happy meal on a Miata NC and you have disengagement problems, please check that your system is properly bled, and that the clutch pedal assembly is not cracked. Yes I had a cracked clutch pedal, and it gave us a huge headache. They say the NC is really reliable, but that clutch pedal assembly is the work of the devil. Get some braces and reinforce it, before it leaves you stranded, or it creates a headache when you swap your clutch and flywheel. Just do it, and get rid of a possible headache. Reinforcing the clutch pedal assembly and replacing the coolant overflow tank for an aluminum one, are two things every one should do any NC Miata.

Is the clutch switch only in US cars? My 94 EU car starts without pressing the clutch pedal but it might have been already modded by one of the prior owners.

Hi there, what I'm interested to know more about for the NA is whether the light flywheel can cause or increase the infamous deceleration buzz/grind that many NAs annoyingly develop apparently in the gearbox. I'm yet to see anyone finger a definitive cause, let alone a fix, for the buzz ... I'd definitely love to know because my NA has that noise. Any advice on known cause and known fix would be welcome, but also what affect would the lighter flywheel have?

I got the FM Happy Meal waiting to be installed on my car 😎

What causes the pressure plate fingers to become uneven? My stage 1 kit makes a lot of noise, replaced the throw out bearing, still there. The fingers are not even, causing the bearing to slide against only one finger and squeak, when the clutch is engaged.

Jeremy, your remark about the clutch switch, the starter and premature wear on the crank thrust bearing is interesting. I assume that when the engine has been at rest, oil has drained away from the thrust bearing. Starting the engine while the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is engaged, takes pressure off the thrust bearing until the oil pump has time to lubricate this bearing. Is this correct?

Is the clutch override switch really necessary for a completely stock 1.6, with an oem exedy replacement clutch?

Does the stage 2 still work on a stock 1.8 with the side effect being more pedal effort, or should it only be mated to a higher horsepower motor?

The shop that installed my clutch lost the clutch switch, I have an NB2, should I try to source one or just leave it as is?

Do you guys recommend a lightweight flywheel on the ND2, I thought I read they come with a dual mass form the factory

I have a 91 1.6 Miata that I just installed a cromoly steel 11lb flywheel (Exedy) for the 1.8 along with a 949 Racing Sport clutch. The clutch works great and it took me a day or two to get used to taking off with the lighter flywheel. I like everything about it better than stock, except it makes a slight buzzing sound (sort of like a loose heat shield) when decelerating at about 3000-3500rpm. It only does it in gear and seems to do it more in the lower gears, though I do hear it in 4th too. Anyway, is this "normal" for lightweight flywheels? Any suggestions to minimize the noise? I did set the transmission height before tightening the front PPF bolts to Mazda spec and checked the torque on all of the bolts. I used new bolts on the flywheel and pressure plate and triple checked them to the correct torque. Red loctite on the flywheel bolts and lock washers on the pressure plate bolts. The exhaust system is a newish Racing Beat and is quiet with no rattles or buzzes. Engine doesn't make any rattles or buzzes in neutral when I rev it up. Any suggestions or is this pretty much normal with a lightweight flywheel?

How did you guys make those air ducts where the fog lights are on the NC?

Is there a stage1/2 kit for the ND specifically the ND2 with the dual mass flywheel ?

on a very stock 1.8 NB Miata, I believe the flywheel weight is around the 17.5 lbs mark. Is a 13.5 lbs flywheel going to be noticeable? And ACT sells a Prolite 9.4 lbs flywheel. Do you think that's excessive on a stock 1.8 liter?

Is there any disadvantage to the lightweight flywheel for the NA? I live in a place that often has really bad bumper-to-bumper traffic

@flyin' Miata I'm a bit confused, this widget (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b6t8l8SElr7WqKM.html) allows you to start the car in neutral (w/o clutch) to preserve the thrust bearing ... but the number of instances where you use the clutch are far higher during gear changes on a typical drive ... saving the ONE clutch actuation at startup is peanuts right? Anything I'm missing something obvious here ?

What are the negatives with going with a lightweight flywheel? Noise?

I just got installed your stage 1 happy meal with the lightened flywheel. The flywheel is advertised as 8.4 lb. So is it really 8.4 lb or 10 lb? I am confused. Anyway, i am breaking in the clutch, so I am driving it very lightly. All I can say, is that I love it.

Who starts there MX5 in anything other than Neutral?? I know you guys in the states dont drive manuals for the most part... but in the UK we grew up with Manuals... you only place / park the car in gear on hills or after a track session (essentially when you cant use / rely on the handbrake)

Ok Eric, I’ll add a view just because you got silly for the thumbnail. Topher 94FMII aka “Major Chode”

Mazda put a heavy flywheel with a reason, didn't they? If the weight of the flywheel is smaller, shouldn't the crank pulley on the front of the engine be lighter too? I feel like they have certain weights for smoothness purposes and to protect main bearings/connecting rod bearings. Basically, the balance from front to back of the engine changes, isn't it? Isn't that going to have an effect on the engine?

I'd like to buy one but your out of stock until October. :(

Please do not start using these ridiculous soy boy face thumbnails. Please.

Is this stage 1 clutch kit good to use for my 90's miata manual 🤔