I'm the 2nd owner of a 2014 CR-V, bought it at 59K (warrenty expired at 60K) and within weeks after buying it it started the rattle, only on cold mornings. It's at 92K now and does it even on hot days, even if it's 85 degrees and you let it sit more than like an hour. I am ticked. I don't know what it would take to get Honda to recall it, since it's not considered a safety item. Thanks, Honda. My young CR-V sounds like a worn-out beater. The 2001 Taurus I moved up from (was this CR-V actually an upgrade though?) started perfectly every morning without any noises. It's really disgusting that Honda cares so little about thier customers and this WIDESPREAD problem with their cars. I am a young man (the new generation as they say) that specifcally bought Honda because of its supposed 'reliability'. By NOT addressing this issue, Honda is ensuring that I look elsewhere for my next car. Maybe Subaru. Or Chevy.

I have Honda CRV 2014 since December 2013. Have always had rattling noise... Went to dealership. They changed belt or whatever and the noise still there. I've had it for almost 10 years already..

I agree with you, I am an auto mechanic and these Honda's they all/many have this problem. Me personally I think all the chain, the guide, tensioner, the sprockets needs to be replaced, I think...I guess they were able to get away buy just replacing that one sprocket it is a cheap alternative, because replacing all the parts that i said it's a big job you most likely have to remove the engine out of the car. I am 30+ mechanic. I guess some of it they are doing under warranty and the corporation gonna be furious if they start replacing that many parts, because at the end the Honda Corp. is paying the repair bill. The dealer cannot replace parts as they wish too.

@@xjssts7127 I wish I knew it before.... After I came back from service center and it was still rattling, I kind of gave up :/ What an irresponsible car owner I am..

@@anthonyevich3836 same here. bought a 2012 EX with 73K 12/2022. Fast forward to now 90K its rattles like every other day or every other startup. I get it, honda never fixed it. There is a company (or startup shop) that made an aftermarket spring to be installed with the existing VTC gear. Most people had good results. But if you think about it its not just the CRV. Civic Si, Accord up til 2012, ilx and believe it or not the earth dreams 2.4L's as well but not as much. The engine runs mint though. It could use a valve adjustment. As a honda enthusiast I'm not mad but I do agree. Honda should have at least ran a campaign fix.

Yeah been hearing that noise now for a second on cold starts on my '10 Accord 125k miles. I also heard that rattling can loosen up your timing chain. Just had a valve adjustment, new timing chain, new guides, tensioners too and new sparks plugs 2 weeks ago and I still hear the noise. I didn't know about the "VCT Accuator" until recently looking it up after the noise still happened. I thought it was from the loose tensioners/guides and timing chain. I still probably needed doing all this after having a 14 yr old car. So I'm going to buy the new spring from "spring-start" for the VTC Accuator for super cheap. I hear that makes a big difference. Some say in time that rattling sound comes back w/o replacing the whole thing. Some say it comes back after replacing the whole thing. Same for the new spring, some say it works perfect others say noise will be back in a year or sooner. Some guys stretch out the spring only and say it works, but I'll just get a new spring. If it comes back after the spring was replaced and everything else I did, well screw it, let it be. The sound is minimal or very slight starting it in warm or hot weather even after many hours, mostly when it's colder or 5am in the morning.

Thank you 😁

Replace the VTC actuator locking pin spring. Takes under an hour with the proper kit with no risk to your engine timing.

Never had this issue i change my oil every 4000km i think people have issues cause they are changing the oil too late according to oil life which is a garbage system to go by

Mine is 2014, replaced under warranty In 2017 and it’s needing replaced again. Sometimes it doesn’t matter sounds like a functional defect

It's not uncommon to have it replaced more than once.

but they fixed it with updated parts, and the newer ones after 12-13 do not do it anymore

Have you tried replacing the spring?

My heads off to you if it worked, I mean if you are not making things up. I am 30+ year mechanic. Can you explain in details witch bolt you are talking about and make a detailer video of the repairs.

@@xjssts7127 things don’t always have to be complicated. And if you’re a 30+ year mechanic you’d know that. You could easily look up videos on this detailing what I said. The fix I detailed works every time on non-Earth Dreams K-series engines.

@@spring-start no need to, as the spring is simply compressed and stretching it back out works just fine. You can if you want to though.

Link to videos?

It's not too difficult once the timing cover intake an exhaust comes off. Just need something to hold the rockers together so the pins for the VTech don't pop out. I've done a few but didn't make a good full video on one. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pciZqdeWqtzVlo0.htmlsi=V9hF4Ns6EqweGBPK kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mat4o7KcupeqfJc.htmlsi=WAESk9n8vpz3R2CU

Ok. I'm gonna probly holler at for few more questions? If that's OK. I've got the kno how but something with the little things like rockers n such I'm clueless.

Don't want to spook you any more but the 4th gen are prone to oil burning especially the later 4th gen where they put the earth dream engine in it. Low tension piston rings etc. I suggest the 3rd gen but from 2007 to even maybe 2010 or an early production 2010. When it still used 5w20 I really think that they should be using 5w30 oil in that motor IMO. I think that year of third gen are really good. Rear differential is still all mechanical just change the fluid regularly. The 4th gen they started putting pumps and pressure switch. Can't remember but it came out with a tab a while back where we had to take them apart to replace an electrical component when it sets a code.

@@theoffroadingmechanic Thanks, I appreciate the sage advice. Its interesting that a 2010 has a different VTC sprocket part number than both a 2009 and a 2012, my research indicates 2010's rack abundant km. In hindsight I should have kept my '09 CR-V EX-L that I sold before moving abroad 5 years ago.

If it was my own car I would do it the right way and replace the chains and guides on a higher mileage car. But if you want to check and see if you might have worn guides or chains a quick look behind the timing chain tensioner cover/inspection hole to see how far the tensioner has extended and having the valve cover remove to see if you can see the color links for the timing marks are good indications if you need to replace chains and guides. It's a good way to decide if you need it or not.

Depends the kms you have on your CRV if it's still fairly low kms then just replacing it this way is fine but if it's higher kms you might be looking to do the correct way which is removing the timing cover and replace the chains and guides at the same time.

The bulletin describes it as a bucket of marbles also warranty extension. But it's noticeable on start up when it happens or if you do an oil change on start up. Guides are usually min wear unless higher kms.

Only on the intake has the vvt. The exhaust has just a regular gear. New Honda's like the 1.5 turbo have dual vvts now. But haven't had the issue due to rattling on start up.

I think The Car Care Nut channel made a video of the Highlander and there common problems and what it can potentially do to the engine

No, it will not make a problem for the engine. It’s just an annoyance. Try running thicker oil as a starting point.

Prolly your tensioner

I think he did it that way to inspect it. That’s my guess. Because I’ve done them without taking the cam out. Great video still. Very detailed.

There are other ways of removing the actuator I just do it this way but as a 2014 they typically burn oil unlike prior 2010 models. Its just good to check conditions while you're there. I have found lobes worn where a camshaft needed replacing while replacing the actuator. Not additional labour to do so.

@@theoffroadingmechanic that makes sense. Thank you. Great video

Haven't seen a catastrophic failure from this yet. And for cost I don't have an answer since I have only done it under warranty and good will. Which there's a procedure to do it so warranty only pay 2 hrs. But book time I believe somewhere from 4 to 5 with removing the timing cover cleaning and resealing.

@@theoffroadingmechanic - If you don't fix it, does it affect the performance or the way it runs?

Just the other day I had a customer with the issue of a rattling noise and a check engine light it had a cam and crank out of phase code. I had to check physical timing and it had jump timing.

The actuator doesn't make a screeching noise and it's not common on the 10th gen. You might just have a slipping belt. Check your tensioner there is an indicator to know when the belt is worn. Harder to see on the 1.5t. that or your compressor shaft seal has leak oil on the belt.

@@theoffroadingmechanic will have my belt checked too. Serpentine is fairly new btw. Only 3 months old. Dealership replaced it as part of preventive maintenance this feb. I'm not sure if screeching is the best adjective to describe the noise. Maybe more like someone with stuffy nose, then tries to blow the mucus off to be able to breath again. 😂 But I'm glad to hear vtc actuator issue isn't common in newer civics. Hopefully this is just a belt, starter or anything minor. Thanks and God bless you!

I was thinking the same, just remove the bolt holding the vvt to the cam. Assuming there’s room to do so, looks like it.

@@scott3801 there is

Have you considered looking into the Mazda cx5 2017 or 2018. You may be paying more for a premium and nicer interior. With a little research may be a nicer fit for your wife. I would not rec. The 2016 or earlier models as those were when they first introduced there skyactive technology but later improved on it which I think became great engines. When I was a Mazda tech

@@theoffroadingmechanic Yeah I have considered Mazda and heard the early skyactive were a bit wonky. Thanks for the heads up about What years to look for. Have also considered rav 4, escape ,Forrester, acura. About all the smaller suvs. Are taking our time.

Yes reconsider

Did they put in a used motor? Or did they just do a short block and reused everything else. They don't make long blocks you either order a short block or the head assembly.

I’m not too engine savvy. When I looked at it, they had kept the outer shell of my engine.

They probably didn't do anything.

Book time is 4.7 hrs in terms of shop rate every shop is different. While these vehicles were still covered under warranty Honda only pays 2 hrs to replace it this way. If I were to do it on my own vehicle i would completely remove the timing cover if it has higher mileage and replace the chain, guides and tensioner at the same time.

@@theoffroadingmechanic Would you consider 92 thousand miles time to replace the chain, guides and tensioner? Mine hase been grinding since 59 thousand miles. :/ No OBDII codes, and no codes on the dash. It just sounds like crap when starting every morning. A masive clatter reasonating under my apartment's covered carport.

Haven't seen any catastrophic damage. People usually come in when they start hearing it.

For a while but it will lead to chain failure. Seen a couple of them at the dealer. But it will be very noisy and rattle for a long time after startup before that happens.

Our 2016 has 140k miles. Nothings ever been done for this problem and I’m not messing with it. Rattles at startup and after oil changes. The thinner/higher miles on your oil the louder/longer it rattles. I run a magnetic drain plug and do all my own oil changes between 4k and 5k miles with Mobil 1 0w20 and there is minimal residue on the plug every time I check it. It sounds bad but it’s nothing to worry about in my opinion. I tried a can of something Honda said to put in the oil but it didn’t do anything for the issue. I have thought of switching to 5w20 to see if there’s a noticeable difference since we have high miles on it anyway to see how it sounds. Thinner oil just drains back quicker leaving it a little dry up there in the motor making it do this. Yea Honda Goofed on this one. The best Hondas are on 2 wheels in my opinion lol. I’ve only ever changed the belt, spark plugs, and the basics on this motor so it’s been a good run and these are literally everywhere on the roads so still Honda quality. Still on the original battery.

Yea you can do it without all of it but how are you able to tell if the chain guides aren't broken or cracked from the chain rattling. Had one last week, the guides were broken and in the oil pan and in the oil pick up

Yeah well if that’s the case than it will require replacements and everything. But sometimes it could be a minor fix at a fraction of the price

Yes I agree it can be a fraction of the price with a simpler fix from what you see on the internet but that is the internet for you and everyone is looking for a cheap fix but for someone that works on these cars day in and day out I see what goes on with them. These engines also burn oil and when ran low on oil you need to check the guides and crank sprockets for teeth wear. Things that these cheap fixes won't show you. You might be more interested in this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5tpqcWl2LKvgH0.html

Did it sound like this? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kMeBa8ph3dmmnp8.htmlsi=MnKEhQplPof94SLQ

Ive been reading that we need to replace serpentine belt tensioner. Good luck.

Install a Honda Extreme VTC spring

Do you do it with the tensioner out for more slack on the chain?

@@theoffroadingmechanic The tensioner just has to have the mechanism retracted and held in place by a pin or Allen key, it does not have to come out. But yes, that is how they do it.

Did you already torqued the bolt to the camshaft?

No

You will need the camshaft. On the camshaft main journal there will be a few holes you will need to blow compress air to unlock the pin to be able to turn it back to the unlock position

@@theoffroadingmechanic will run if I just fit it and let the oil pressure set it,why does it need to be in the unlocked position?

Also just looked the cam and cog I removed and it is in the locked position.

The rattles and oil burning or more common on the 2010-2016 CRV is what I have noticed also they have gone to low tension piston rings you will see in this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5tpqcWl2LKvgH0.htmlsi=s91QHWwLd8pUVBE_

This is true - however not directly in this case. I say not directly, because the main cause of the rattle is the spring for the locking point in the actuator no longer being strong enough. These will still rattle after the spring is replaced, and many times replacing the tensioner will stop the rattle.

Not true. Defective tensioner will rattle warm or cold.

@@gfriedman99 not true, tensioner will stop rattling once oil pressure builds.

Can't believe I missed these comments. I should chime in here about your tensioner causing it to rattle it is possible for the tensioner to cause the rattle depending on the situation. For example the earth dream motor in the 2016 CRV, and accord there is a screen/metal gaskets for the tensioner. For some reason the oil life indicator on these won't come on until near 10k miles depending on how you drive what I have found on the screen for the tensioner will get clogged up with junk restricting oil flow to the timing chain tensioner and thus also causing your rattle. Whole separate issue on the earth dream K series motor.

@@theoffroadingmechanic those godforsaken screens are great and a curse. Gotta have them to keep things clean but when they plug up the tensioner rattles and the old k24s go into limp mode. Having worked in the engine plant at HCM for 13 years I can tell you that oil filtering and screening are important

Wear and tear

Someone recommended Pennzoil 0-20 Syn and our 2011 Accord rattle stopped after 2 weeks.Only drove about 100 miles a week.That was 4 years ago and noise hasn't happened since.I was using Mobil 1.Worth a try.

Try 5W30 as a next step, or if you will be driving in temperatures over 70 F. 0W20 is the reason why this happens, along with creating other engine issues because it burns off. When this happens, people drive low on oil that is already not thick enough to properly protect the internals and this overheats the timing chain, stretching it. It also overheats and weakens the spring inside the actuator and this is what causes the rattle.

The later 15 and 16 will have the earth dream motor but also do the same thing. Just titled 2011-2015 for the non earth dream motor in the CRV. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5tpqcWl2LKvgH0.html

Its because the VTC actuator isn't locking causing the chain to slack causing it to sound like that. I'll make a shorts video when I get one

springstart vtc has a video of the sound to diagnose and replacement honda vtc locking pin springs to help without replacing the whole gear for all Honda and Acura vehicles.

Good morning, I have a crv 2014 car. When I start it in the morning, it makes a rough sound, but for how many moments, can I know what is the problem?

Good morning, I have a crv 2014 car. When I start it in the morning, it makes a rough sound, but for how many moments, can I know what is the problem?

Typically 1-2 seconds there is a rattle or grinding sound.

Arabayi calistirinca bi ses geliyor araba sogukken, araba sicakken sorun yok. O sesi gidermesi icin degistirdi. Motora sorun olusturcak bir durum degil, sadece ses gitmesi icin degistiriliyor.

Did they just replace the VTC actuator? Where you can sneak the sprocket out or did they remove the timing cover and also inspect the timing components for any broken chanin guides?

@@theoffroadingmechanic they replaced everything that had to do with timing new chain guides vct actuator almost of it now two weeks later it jumped time 🙄 so idk if they did it right or what but it still made the noise that's why I'm not replacing mine just for it to make the noise again ya ko

kzfaq.info8o4a-Tml3pg?feature=share Can you check this it can also sound like it but it is actually just a worn out belt bottoming out the tensioner that makes it sound like a VTC actuator

@@theoffroadingmechanic wow ya no mine sounds like thanks man me and my dad will deffently check that out big help man

What are you going on about? 😅 this is a common failure on these cars. Go back to the looney bin

@mediaguy4037 OK cupcake, you know everything. This worked for me. It was inexpensive. VETEC works like a bear. Best of all...I did not have to take the top of the engine off. Please, don't try it. You are one of those untrained shade tree guys that have one tool in the box..a hammer 🔨.

@@GgRae-gv1tg calling something a scam when this is a car repair video. Your mind is a scam 😅 go read a book

@mediaguy4037 Are you OK? You seem to be highly emotional and acting out. What have you done to your customers? Broken their trust? Lack of integrity? Hmm I wonder 🤔 😏 😌.

@@GgRae-gv1tg I’m not a mechanic. You nut

It doesn't happen to be an earth dream motor is it? If not can you see if it is something like this I have a shorts video. kzfaq.info8o4a-Tml3pg?si=nhpTslKdFGnSHJ19

Can you check this I have a video maybe it's not a VTC actuator rattle and just a worn out belt kzfaq.info8o4a-Tml3pg?si=nhpTslKdFGnSHJ19

Just replace the Honda VTC actuator spring. Easy "search"