If you must use a Skill Saw to trim a finished panel, get a decent blade and tape over the area to be cut before scribing your line. Then cut with the tape in place, A Skill saw blade cuts UP and will likely remove bits of the finished edge as seen in the video - tape and a finishing blade will help.

I use a table saw with a real fine blade and you won't get the chipping on the base of your panel. You can also use masking tape to help the chipping. Also I would have removed the drawers and installed a screw from the stile of the cabinet into the filler strip rather than to rely on the silicone to mount the strip itself.

That filler strip will get pushed in sooner than later. Why not use blocking in the back of it to prevent it from being accidentally kicked in?

I've seen several of his videos and I for one want him to know he is appreciated. His explanations and illustrations are spot on. He is clear and concise. keep up the great work. May God bless you and thank you again.

Belt sander or even a hand held grinder with aggressive sanding disk is the best way to trim scribes. Also mask where you're going to trim if you're cutting. No mask needed if sanding/grinding.

Very helpful, thanks. I've installed new cabinets in my master bath and have to install a filler strip. This is what I needed to know!

paint sticks make the perfect filler strips and they are free! Works perfect for builder grade 90s cabinet ends.

Blocking is best to place the filler strip or screw it through the wall of cabinet and use screw caps.

This is great , very informative and exactly what I needed to know , thanks so much....🇨🇦

To take off that amount at the bottom of the end panel I would use an electric plane or a belt sander, not a Skillsaw! If you use a Skillsaw you have to cut from the back so neat cut edge is on the good side but not suitable in this situation.Or maybe scribe from behind with a short pencil.

I can't believe you cut your carefully scribed panel with a circular saw. You can borrow my belt sander to sweeten that scribe if you like. I think IKEA recommends a backer block for your filler strip, but you got yours in good. Also, you cut the finish off the bottom of that MDF side panel and it's on the floor in a wet room. You should seal that bare edge in case water finds it some day. Just a silicone bead is good if it's not your house, but I would seal it if it were mine. Thanks for the video.

Router + straight edge + pattern/ flush trim bit is best option.

Belt sander would have been better to trim that end panel; no chip out!

The panel is tilted out at the bottom, it should be tilted out at the top so the line scribed matches the floor where the panel will ultimately rest. If I were doing this, I would have installed both pieces BEFORE setting the top. Removing the doors and drawers so access to the stiles is easy. the filler is then cut to length to match the right end of the cabinet and scribed (on the right side) to match the wall. Then aligned with the top and bottom of the cabinet, pressed into place and attached with screws through the right stile. The panel at left is set in (plumbed) place, scribed to match the floor where it will sit. Trimmed along the scribe line. Then set in place and marked for height using the left side of the cabinet. This approach makes for easier measurements, fitting and installation. Then measure for your counter top and have it made to fit.

Please do not follow this guys advice. 1. The cabinet should be level when installed so there is no reason to shim the top. (Shim the cabinet). 2. The filler along the wall should be attached to the cabinet frame PRIOR to installing the cabinet and should be attached to the face frame of the cabinet with screws ( take out the drawers and screw from inside the frame into the edge of the filler, use clamps to hold the filler in place and drill piolet holes with a thin drill bit before screwing to avoid splitting wood) 3. It is also a good idea for a wide filler to use some sort of blocking attached to the wall so the filler can rest on it (the filler sits in front of the blocks). A bit of construction adhesive works as long as you clamp it until the adhesive is dry) since you didn’t install the top yet you can clamp and get access to behind the filler easily (the top goes on last) 4. Do not cut finish wood with a Skill saw. Use a table saw with a fine finish blade and the either a sander or a hand planner to make finial adjustments. 5. Use blue painter tape on the finished face of the panel to protect it while cutting.

If u have to shim your countertop it means you fitted the unit off level or the unit was made crooked

Hi, I produce modern cabinetry. your fillers are huge. Standard is one and a half inches. The best way to ensure this is to take 2x4 and tac it on to the wall. 3 mm under the top of the cabinet And 2 inches back from the face of the cabinet. Then butt your first cabinet up against it.

when cutting out the scribe,it would be best if you cut backwards. meaning that you run the saw opposite of cutting forward.this will prevent chipping on your finish material. just a suggestion. good video though.

Thanks for the information. I will be using it this weekend to finish off the cabinets at my house.

Ya'll don't need to bend your measuring tapes. The measurement listed on the side of the measure is for that.

You should measure from the bottom of the countertop down so you don't need to bend the tape. It gives a more accurate measurement. Not for everyone but I choose to use metric with finish work, same reason as above.

Put screws thru the gable of unit for the filler piece - never use silicone as it cannot be painted and is useless for holding against unit

Question, would it make your life easier if you painted the walls first, before putting in the vanity?

Are those Ikea Kitchen cabinets as a bathroom vanity?! Genius.

No one knows that the tape housing itself is intended to be used as part of the measurement so that its accurate w/o bending, EVERY TAPE HAS THE HOUSING DIMEMSIONS TO ADD TO TAPE MEASUREMENT

This guy is internet gold.

question, why dont you make an L piece for your infill so you can bring it flush with the doors

It would look better with a panel great job looks awesome.

Use an electric planer, no chipping and smoother scribe

Blow and go…you get what you pay for

Thank you so much.

Why didn't you screw the filler strip to the cabinet? Your cut line on that panel looks like crap where the melamine chipped. You should of installed both items before the countertop was installed.

This is terrible work for several reasons. 1.Those drawers needed to come out and the strip clamped and screwed from inside the cabinet. Also a blocker behind is a good idea. Filler goes on before vanity install, period. 2. Circular saw for scribing? Use a belt sander, even a good jig saw, and use masking tape if using the saw so you dont chip the panel. Rookie move with circle saw and not even using tape. 3. Why is your tile not level?

First chipping at the melamine, second you left the bottom of the chip board raw, and in few months it will swell up and look swollen and bad. Rather use a solid piece of timber close to water....

weird question, who did the work on your left arm?

And by the way @Graeme Darbyshire is right, and also you should not have removed that plastic film it really helps with a clean edge, not necessary with the circular saw technique presented here. Not to mentioned that rough edges at wall and floor side could be nicely covered by silicon.

why did u not cut the cover panel from the upper side before installing the top ''ceramic''....?

Why not put little wood blocks before attaching the right-side filler? You could "Fuse-It" to the wall and the cabinet, then shoot it with a nailgun!

At 6:40, he literally swept it under the rug

You ever hear of tape and a jigsaw?

Awsome 👍👍

made in Sveden ya shure you betcha how sustainable - metal drawers

How do you determine how wide the fill strip should be?

Who else saw him sweep his mess under the rug?

Should used a planer to scribe the bottom of the end panel looks well ruff 🤦🏼

Thanks

I mean….the tear out on the finished panel is not ideal. Should’ve taped it

Translucent silicone?! I haven’t heard of that for the end finishes can you show me the product you use for that?

the bottom of that panel, gets water it's gonna swell up!

yo bro use an angle grinder with a soft wheel to sand your scribe line with its better than there skillsaw it wont leave the chipping on your edge peace out

You should have installed these attached to the cabinet before you ever put the cabinet in

Half fast is a: COMPLIMENT !!!

How To build cabinets that fall apart

Great video Steve-O! Are you the guy from JACKASS?

what kind tools you use never seen Gray.

Do not follow this method of cutting end panel; no need for chipping however inevitable when using circular saw

Did anyone notice that the side panel was even with the front of the cabinet base door. The will not allow the door to open and bind on the end panel. Unless I messed something?

Please use table saw

Question, hope you can help. Installed ikea kitchen cabinets all are level problem is the floor is not. How would you cut the cover panels if the floor and wall are off ??

Seems like a nice guy but there is so much fail in this video.

34 and 7/8, 14/16, 7&3/32 that system really sucks.... Counting those little dividing lines must be frustrating. This shows again a superiority of the metric system. Decimal system rules!

what did you build your base from? looks like ripped strips of plywood maybe?

great job

First of all, the explanation for adding the filler after counters is bologna at best. If you install the cabinet level, no shims are need to lift the counter. the filler should be flush with the top of the cabinet.

My god you chipped the shit out of the gable - cut with jigsaw upside down man or use a planer

Jeez bud, the further I get into the video the more I see wrong. I hope you've improved since making this video. The filler, you're cut in the end panel, shims under the countertop, wow.

I would never use a circular saw to cut a scribe on Melamine. Way too much chipping. Looks terrible. Belt Sander only.

Not perfectly installed filler strip,don't use silicone to attach it should be screwed through inside of drawers into filler strip.

Filler not flush with door Booo! And panel cut on finish side! Boo ! Chip out! Cut your panel backwards to avoid chip out!!!

Carpet in a bathroom???

Good intentions for sure. Seems like a nice guy but this work is not precise or best practice. At least this video.

That was very bad workmanship. You really ruined that panel.

Now I know what not to do......

I don't know much about this sort of thing .... but I can say one thing (just based off the fact I have eye balls) this looks like total shit. If i hired you to do this in my home, I would want a 100% refund and it removed.

Never trust advice from someone with sleeve tattoos. It's a sign of low intelligence.

haha

viewers plz do not follow this use jigsaw instead for diy'ers circular saw is dangerious

Holy shit, this is terrible advice.

Use L filler