whats the best multimeter one could buy on amazon right now??

Great point! Does the precision remain reasonably constant, to at least check the packs are balanced?

gotta be real lol we are working on high voltage electronics

@@GoGeorge The move to these higher voltage wheels makes it a much bigger consideration than my days on a Ninebot One E+ at 63V, having said that anything over 50V should be of some concern. I was always taught its the mills that kills and the volts that jolts, mills referring to milliamps. Unfortunately it's the volts that drives the current. What actually kills you is the current through vital organs over time. Higher current, or greater time the greater the danger. As little as 30mA across your heart being enough to kill you if it's there long enough. How nerdy is that? See what a background in electronics gets you :-) There was a time I was working with voltages as high as 19kV with 50kW PSU's pushing out the power - what could possibly go wrong :-)

All mods are dangerous.

@@Kay0Bot wow stickers are dangerous. who could have known?

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anytime 🙏

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siiiick 🍻

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niiiice

What battery config do u have? I’m having same issue w my 40T Master (40 miles range) but EWheels just said that’s about what to expect. I think something’s wrong w my battery packs too.

@@wutruriding1355 50e

@@wutruriding1355 If you are experiencing this fault you should certainly see a difference between the voltages of the two forward batteries vs the two rear batteries.

@@Roskellan yes, I’ll check those along w charger when I get a multimeter. Thanks.

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glad this info reached you 🍻

@@GoGeorge Me too!

Definitely check the charger voltage.

@@Roskellan will do, thanks.

Ewheels unfortunately stopped replying to me about their rapid charger not letting my S18 balance.

May have been the charger!

@@Roskellan nope, tried multiple chargers and tested with multimeters.

@@MomentumProductions1992 Interesting, there is hysteresis in the charging voltage especially on unused batteries where the battery voltage settles back after charging, particularly if the charger was removed immediately when the green charge light indicated a full charge, or changing with a high current charger. The same thing happens in reverse when the battery voltage recovers to some extent after heavy use.

awesome glad you have the ability to remedy the situation

yeah i realised in edits that i didnt get a good shot

excellent tip lol

the batteries are 2 x 67.2v batteries wired in series. batteries in series will always go out of balance unless a balancong circuit is added between them

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Small voltage difference cannot cause high currents, these batteries are 30amps max when shorted, it's 30w on 1v difference (they will not give 30 amps on 1v difference anyway) So you're probably looking at 10w of power redistribution max. Not good but not terrible 😅

You might be thinking of trickle charging. Balancing begins after it's fully charged.

no i dont unfortunately its from an aliexpress store. i know archee a local boston rider you can find on facebook or telegram sells them though

the issue is that the packs are wired in series with individual bms systems. so once the front battery is done charging, it cuts off charging to the rear pack

no thats as high as it will go, likely just a minor inaccuracy of your voltmeter though and even if it is a tick low thats close enough to full that the cells will still balance if left charging

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definitely a good piece of routine maintenance for any lithium ion battery

its generally called a bench charger i believe. several members of the community sell them or you can order one on aliexpress. hit up archee if you want one

@@GoGeorge Thanks George... How do I get ahold of Archee?

@@jameskiely5518 you should be able to find him as a member on almost every euc facebook group as well as the bostom telegram groups.

i know some members of the community like archee sell them

@@GoGeorge Okay, Thanks a lot

yes these are variable bench chargers you can get from different places. the theory is once one pack hits 67.2 they all stop charging

The BMS in each pack respectively balances the cells in that pack. As this is a passive BMS it only works at the top of the charge, where each cell in a pack will be only allowed to rise to 4.2V. A suitable charger with the correct connector would have to be 67.2V with the ability to control and observe it's current which should be no more than 4A, 2A being more preferable.

not sure id have to ask jason

batteries can eventually get so unbalanced that a cell dies which is a fire hazard. the charger id need to ask jason but im pretty sure he got it from archee

no, being .2v off isnt concerning . when you start getting to .5v or worse is when its an issue

Locals here believe it’s the mux is misconfigured…looking up what the hell a mux is.

its the charge board

i believe that is an amperage adjustment but im not positive

Normally the second adjustment is the cut off amperage. At what mA the charger should indicate fully charged. But on some it is the charge current being adjusted.

Ok now I'm good. My multimeter was not calibrated...it gave me 11V higher. I tried with an other one and now I can adjust it at 134.4V. So clockwise go up and counter clockwise go down.

unfortunately i have not purchased one myself and dont want to link a random aliexpress product. archee sells them though

prefer a voltmeter but they all do have a slight margin of error so more important all the battery values match on your meter than all are a perfect 67.2

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There are people who refer anything below 1000V as low voltage (generally power company workers) and outher who refer 12V as high voltage (Generally PC enthusiasts, overclockers). Power company responsibility ends at

if your confident your voltmeter is accurate it might not be a bad idea, but slightly over isnt the worst the bms will cut charging anyways and a slight over volt isnt dangerous if for some reason it doesn't

no if your charger is slightly over thats fine. if the series packs are in balance it shouldnt be an issue but eventually you should try to balance it all out. assuming the 67.7 are in line though and the 62.2 are in series, you should be fine

@@GoGeorge Not sure I understand what you mean by series/in line, but my left side is: front pack 67.7 rear 62.2, left side is front 67.2 rear 67.7. so they are "diagonally" synced I guess you can say. Also big thanks for producing this great informational content and answering my questions! :)

sounds plausible

@@GoGeorge I will check the output to be sure👍🏼

voltage doesn't kill you.. current does.

Yep and 30 mA can kill you and we have 3A on this one!

@@TrungNguyenSquallLHeart Voltage drives current, I=V/R, more voltage, more current.

@@Roskellan oooh.. Ohm's law... did you forget to account for resistance? lethal current would be about 10A.. depending on where that current is flowing thru the body of course as well.. but you also forgot to account for the resistance of a human body... a static shock can generate millions of volts.. but alas.. it doesn't kill you, does it? there's not enough amperage generated because.. oh.. yea.. resistance. so comparing 134V to millions of volts from even a tiny static shock... nah.. sure.. voltage drives current... but you failed to account for the third factor in Ohm's law.. resistance.

@@TrungNguyenSquallLHeart Its the mills that kills, the volts that jolts. True but one drives the other 🙂

its a variable bench charger i believe

@@GoGeorge Is it any? Or lithium ion specific?

@@khmerkid213 it should work for any lithium based battery

@@GoGeorge Beauty! Thanks my man

you need a clamp meter

@@GoGeorge I have one, I just don’t know which hole to use. You know to measure voltage it’s hole 1 and 4, but for Amp I don’t know.

@@sexiazel you need a clamp meter , its a specific type of voltmeter that has a tool for measuring amperage. you put the active wire inside the clamp and it will measure how many amps are passing through the wire

@@GoGeorge oh ok 😅 thank you George.

thats not bad, the voltmeter may just be off tolerance. a slight over volting isnt the worst either. if you want though you can just adjust your charger down

i believe so but can't confirm

@@GoGeorge never heard of mx60, it’s what I thought I heard…

@@markricharddavies just looked them up , its an MR60

they released new charge boards

each side is wired in series and then that is wired in parralel to each other. im not sure which battery the positive is shared from if thats what you mean

@@GoGeorge yes that's what I mean.id like to just throw two more pack on parallel for safety and range extension.

@@Esk-be8kd you should be able to trace it through the charge board . each pack is wired individually and go in series at the charge board

What type of connector is used for the master battery? Thanks

@@Esk-be8kd i belive its an mr60

yes , except the new v2 version supposedly has a balancing circuit between the series

more likely to cause a fire via a dead cell over time

this 10000%

yes

The Master Pro has batteries twice the size but the same voltages and the same pack configuration (32S8P).

yes, the new charge distribution boards keep each set of series balanced

you should absolutely top off and balance charge your wheel regularly to balance the cells

@@GoGeorge balancing is dependent on the cell voltage, not the pack voltage. Balancing can start at any pack voltage, even at voltages of less than 100v. The only thing that matters is that any cell reaches the balancing voltage and thats it - it starts to clamp the parallel that reached the balancing voltage. And it doesn't care about other cell voltages and thus the total pack voltage. It is in part thanks to people that don't know what they're doing begode gets bad rep. Yeah their engineering could be better, but don't make it even worse. If you live in a valley, and you don't brake untill you get to approx. 4.15v/cell than charging to 134.4v is acceptable. But if you live on flat ground, or on a hill, then at best you are noticeably accelerating the degradation rate of your battery pack. Besides, charging to 4.2v or to 134.4v in a 32s pack should stop when the charge current reaches a certain threshold, and shouldn't continue beyond that. Since 99.9% of chargers cant do that, the common way is to set the end charge voltage slightly lower then the nominal 4.2v/cell. It increases the time it takes to charge the last percent or two, but it keeps the battery in the charge envelope that is set by the cell manufacturer.

sorry i can't do that

yes but for those of us who ride unicycles this is a new thing. all batteries to this point have been full voltage and wired in parralel. these are the first wheels with multiple packs wired in series

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Love hate relationship - I bought the Begode Master (waiting for parts under the warranty) :-)

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But Begode make such high spec wheels, thoroughbreds are temperamental.

its not a big deal really

Don't worry it's all normal shit, a few volt one way or another it's not going to explode.

doubtful, the two in front are in series and charged equally. the ones in back are in series and probably the bms stopped the charge once the one pack was over volted

Question, does the BMS monitor each battery pack separately ? Or just peak voltage

@@mongi4435 problem is its 4 seperate BMS and i dont think they communicate

O. That’s weird. Good video anyway, I’m going to do some research on my own .

O. That’s weird. Good video anyway, I’m going to do some research on my own .

you shoyld do both, under charge it most of the time but regularly fully charge and balance the cells