Here is a video of how i make my own chain lube: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d92Bh6yhmLCXf5c.html

I will speak _exclusively_ from personal experience. I have been riding since 1985, and obtained my full bike licence in 1988. I have riden bikes ranging fom RD125's and GT250 X7's, through RG500 fours, Kawasaki GPZ 600, early GSX-R 750's and more recently Triumph 955i's and Twins. Since 1990, when I installed my first Scottoiler on a ZXR750, I have _never_ replaced _any_ chain or sprocket on _any_ of my bikes. Every bike since then has been fitted with an automatic oiler. In 70k miles on the Daytona (a 150bhp bike) I adjusted the chain 3 times. When I traded that in for a Thruxton 900 (just 69bhp, but Ducati style torque) the dealer told me "thanks for having recently changed the chain and sprockets!", "I replied your welcome" although they were in fact the originals. I transfered my Scottoiler from the old bike to the new bike and the Thruxton now has 60k miles and the chain will _easily_ go another 120k. I have converted friends from spray to oil...its really easy because the _real_ enemy of our chains is in fact heat. Heat expands the chain, allows the internal grease to bypass the O-Rings and wears the sprockets like "shark fins" because the side-plates lengthen when hot, and the contact area creeps up the tooth. Sticky chain lube just converts into a grinding paste, thanks to sand, and road dust sticking to it, and producing excessive heat. So whats the easiest way of converting a friend from sprays? Ride 100 miles together then ask them to check the chain temperature of their bike compared to your's. My chains are relatively cold, a little above ambient temperatures. Their's is uncomfortable to touch for more than a few seconds. One friend went 22k on his Tiger 1050 before requiring a new drive kit, when changed he vowed never to use spray lubricants again, having read that a completely dry chain would actually last longer. That, second chain, lasted 21k - and was _never_ lubricated from the moment it was fitted. Same heat you see. My advice - if you intend to do at least 20k on your "new" bike (or new chain), get a Scottoiler - they are cheaper than a chain & sprocket kit, easier to install, and will give you a guaranteed ROI.

I use oil but have recently changed how I apply it. I now use a bottle designed to apply glue to wood. The bottle have bristles on the top to spread the glue on the wood. I put oil in the bottle and 'brush' a film of oil onto the chain. It's an easy and fast way to get good coverage.

I ride a harley so it automatically oils my chain, brakes, tires, pegs, shifter, garage, road, & parking place with a nice fresh coating of oil.

Its good to see a range of methods. People thinking for themselves instead of just buying what they want us to buy.

Awesome will be joining the oil chain gang , never tried but will now . Thanks for sharing your experience and advice 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

I don’t ride a motorcycle with chain anymore, but my first motorcycle with chain had recommendation in the manual to use just engine oil to lubricate a chain. Understandable, easy and no BS. 🙂

Hay Mate Paul from Australia, a friend of mine users engine oil mixed with graphite power - helps the oil stick . Yes Ryan from Forthnine said engine was one ☝️ of the best lubricants when tested against all others . When I travel I use a Motul chain paste ( it’s like a tooth paste tube but larger . ) it’s fantastic and compact and will fit under most seats . Also you don’t have to worry about it leaking . I reckon I will start using my old 90/130 weight transmission oil - thinker so will stay on better Good 👍 Vid .

Yes indeed. That trick I started using years ago. Works with mountain bike chains as well. Also lube while the chain is hot, thus the cooling chain will suck the oil into the places you really need it to go.

I have been riding an MZ250 since I bought it in 1984. Following the manual, I applied grease to the (non O ring chain) every 2500km. I replaced the first chain at 128,000km. At 142,000km the second chain looks good. Still on original sprockets.

75w-90 gear oil is what I use. Works great!

Great video, Been using rear gear oil on motorcycle chains, till up to 85, since 86 my rides have been shaft drive, until this year , I purchased a used Honda 919 & will use gear oil again

I’ve always used Mobil1 synthetic from my oil changes just leave upside down the ‘empty’ bottles and you get plenty to fill a bottle with an applicator tube, works great and it’s free really.

I've been using oil for years and years. Sticky chain spray + road grit = grinding paste! My chains show minimal signs of wear, and look like new.

I stopped using chain lub cans in my moto a couple of years ago... Exactly as you described. I found in the owners manual that what they recommend is heavy dutty oil. In my case, I use car transmission oil (manual gearboxes use a thicker oil, 70w, I believe). It lubricates quite good, it is easy to clean and costs a fraction of a can of spray lube (As I recall I payed 7€ for half a liter of that stuff, and it lasts a LOT!), as you mentioned. Will never revert to sprays again.

Jar with heavy weight gear oil and a small 1” wide paint brush. Lay on the oil thick while brushing the chain, then a good wipe down takes all the dirt and leaves very little oil to fling off while leaving a nice protective layer of lube on everything. Simple, cheap, fast.

I use a toothbrush and grease to keep the O-rings lubed. A lot less friction compared to chain wax. Just changed my V Strom 650 chain and sprockets at 35,000 miles. Chain was just starting to show couple links that were getting stiff. Rear sprocket looked almost new. Front sprocket had remarkable longevity showing minimal wear. Only adjusted chain at 10k intervals when replacing tire. Ride in Pennsylvania

I have been using oil for chainsaw for many years and it works like a charm

Hey, Yea I lube my chain only with gear oil. I have a Nemo2 oiler installed at my bike. Also a Scottoiler would work.

The oil John, (apart from conditioning the "O" rings and keeping rust at bay) lubricates and reduces friction between the rollers and the bushings they rotate upon... as the rollers have no "O" rings. 90-140 diff oil is what I use and it makes my rides very smooth. 🙂

We use excavators, wood chippers, stump grinders etc., and maintenance is the key for longevity. We therefore have access to many types of lubricants and for absolute simplicity and cost a can of waterproof (not water resistant!!!) grease is by far the best. We buy in bulk and a can is really cheap, less than £3.00. It doesn’t fly off, you need very little, and easily removed with diesel when it comes to servicing the chain. When caught in a down pour is when this type of grease is preferable to oil. When applied it’s in liquid form and within a few seconds it reverts to standard grease. When touring, we lube up the chain at the end of the day and after 300 miles run for instance the chain is still coated, hence why so little is used as a top up. For those who say grease attracts dust and grit, I would argue the same applies to wax, oil and other lubrication systems. With oil, its use as a carrier will take the oil inside the rollers and increase wear; much less so than commercial waterproof grease The proof is in the pudding as they say, our chains and sprockets cover thousands of miles travelling across continents in all climates and without incident. Economy is one aspect of motorcycling but ease and efficiency must also become part of the resolve to ensure pleasure throughout the experience. Food for thought fellow riders of motorcycles.

I mostly agree with you. My one and only issue with your method is how you clean the chain. Don't use a pressure cleaner, because they are strong enough to push water past the O-rings and mix with the lubricant inside the rollers.

Amazing advice John ! Thanks

Totally agree with you. I had been doing the same, every 500 kms, since I bought my motorcycle in 2019, both chain and sproket are in good condition. As its dirt cheap, its easy to take care of the cahin set rather than being worried of expences. Availability is also an important factor, if you are out on a long trip its difficult to find chain lube but oil will be easily available. Very important video, thanks for sharing Ride Hard, Ride Safe 😎👍🏻

What bike and chain manufacturers says (and always was) about chain maintenance? Gearbox oil, or any high thick motor oil, every 200-300km, and after every rain trip. I used sometimes chain spray lube, but it's a pain in the ass to clean, catch all the road dirt, and fucks up the chain at the speed of light. But yes, it's convenient... Personally, i recycle my motor oil in a DIY automatic oiler. Works pretty well. Easy to clean, good lubrification, and my chain kit live way longer. For example, my commute bike is a 98's FZS 600, 265.000 km ( yes :] ), and the chain (non O-Ring DiD reinforced, so one of the cheapest) has almost 55.000km. Tips: i use P18 in my motor oil, so there is literally no wearing due to metal to metal friction. Oil is the way.

I think every rider should use whatever they think is best. (Even if they are wrong) This KZfaq video shows how I’ve been doing it for over 20 motorcycles and 39 years riding. I can’t imagine getting less than 25 thousand miles out of a chain and sprockets, and on a 1200 Bandit I got to 40,000. I have an oiler can like his, but now I prefer to apply the gear oil with a brush as it gets to all the chain parts easily. I just pour a small amount of oil in a container (like a plastic drink cup), brush it on the chain, wipe it down without being too aggressive, and I’m done. If you do use the spray type, position a piece of old cardboard behind the chain so when you spray it doesn’t end up on the wheel, tire, swingarm, etc.

Talvez o comentário venha tarde, mas a minha experiência diz o mesmo. Uso oleo 80W-90 com um lubrificador scootoiler, 45000 km com o mesmo kit de corrente cremalheira e pinhão e so agora começo a notar algum desgaste mas mesmo assim nada de grave. Único defeito é quando chove, a agua retira o lubrificante. Nesse caso tenho sempre uma bisnaga com o mesmo óleo e uma escova de dentes velha e lubrifico manualmente. Boas curvas João.

I use chainsaw oil on my motorcycle chain. It’s thick it doesn’t flick off everywhere. Good enough for a chainsaw chain good enough for my motorcycle. It last for ages, applied with an old toothbrush

Thanks for sharing. Perfect timing for me as I am about to run out of chain lube spray. Because I do a lot of dirt trail riding I have been using a special motocross so called dry lube. Yet the front sprocket was jammed with dirty greasy crud. I will try what you use.

Thank you! You are very cool man😁 good luck!

Yes, bike manual will specify heavy grade oil, only drawback for me is to carry it during my travel. On my smaller bike I use a low cost manual oiler attached to the bike, it work great. Scotch Oiler use heavy duty oil, so that is proof itself why it is better to use oil.

Really it's so simple. Cardboard inside chain standing upright, spray chain lube and spin rear wheel, wipe of excess the 30 mins late do it again. But before this mildly wet a rag with Krosene to clean it. Belray Blue Tac is the best and low fling lube I've ever used.

Been doing same for years. Cheers!

In the early 1970s, I was told by the dealer mechanic to use diesel fuel to clean the chain. Follow up with thick gear oil for lubrication. During the 70's I don't remember if O rings were used on chains.

I went a step further and made a chain oiler from a syringe, pneumatic tube going to the rear sprocket and a valve to stop it from leaking. Now my chain is literally lubricated with a press of a button. It really helps on a bike without a central stand. Cheapest gearbox oil stays on the chain for about the same amount of time or kilometers as spray grease. BTW service manual for my bike (and many other bikes) says gearbox oil like 80w90 is what you should use. Spray grease seems like a markeing bull$hit...

Actually makes sense using oil instead of the sprays!! Thanks John!!! Don W., Ohio, USA!

Have been doing mine the same way , for years as you say easier to clean .

Long before chain spray became available in the UK, I use a heavy oil made by Castrol from the 1970s to the 1990s. I think it was an SHS3001 oil. I'd wash the chain with an old paint brush using Jizer. Then wipe dry and paint the chain with another paint brush with that Castrol oil. I traveled from Hertfordshire to Glasgow, did some touring around Scotland with an old mate in all weathers. Then three or four days later we'd head home. That Castrol oil was still on the chain when we got home. Pity I can't get access to that oil now as it's only sold in five gallon cans! Safe riding dude 👍...

I been doing this for some time now, it is the best way to do it. I will however but one on those oiler's I've been doing it with a paint brush but I like your idea better.

Wash with white spirit or paraffin. Lubricate with Gear Oil.

Yes mate, oil preferably 80 grade gear oil, applied with a brush held against either side of the rear sprocket as the wheel is spun. Fixing a problem created by the manufacturer in response to an idiotic fashion. The cure - a fully enclosed chaincase. Look at 1970's MZ and Jawa. Even the Honda step throughs.

I haven't tried it yet but I recon chainsaw chain oil would be better than anything..it has a really sticky consistancy to stop it flying off

Excellent video. common sense really. Ill give it a go.

My 1970 Norton 750 Commando automatically lubricates the chain using crankcase blowby. My 1985 Jawa 350TS automatically lubes it's chain with gear oil that leaks past the drive seal and the chain case keeps dirt and grime off it.

Can lube is glue which attracts grit were as oil keeps the chain clean. I used a Scotoiler and never worried about an oily tyre I crancked the drip down to one every 5 mins. Chain was always spotless

Drill a hole in the chain guard get nylon tube you can feed in the hole , it's best to sit on your bike to see how long the tubing needs to be that you attach to an oil can keep the oil can in your jacket pocket or gaff tape it somewhere or make a bracket so you can lube you chain whilst traveling.

As you say, lub. after a ride when the chain is warm. Ryan of Fortnine recommends car gearbox oil, as better anti-fling properties than engine oil. I use a paint pad. They are like a pile carpet, used for painting walls with emulsion. They come in various sizes, around 15X8 cms. There is a track at the back onto which a handle clips. If the pad is cut into three pieces the handle will still fit. The pad can then be charged from a squeezy bottle of oil, goodly amount to the inside of the chain, then lightly charged to do the outside and sides, just to prevent rusting. It's much easier with a mate to turn the wheel. All cloths should be lint free. Glorious day today, have just bee round Loch Ness. Go well.

I use chainsaw oil, nice and sticky, doesn’t fly off everywhere and is easily applied using a plastic bottle with a a thin tube and brass spout that can be sealed off. I carry a bottle in my tail-pack, which I use on an extended trip out on my bike.

Well I have ordered a new chain today although not an O ring and use muc-off lube and cleaner and hate cleaning the wheel swingarm and hugger. I have now ordered a new little oil can so the wheel will be coming off so the bike can get a good clean and I will see how it goes just using oil. What grade oil do you use.?

I have a 2012 suzuki vstrom dl1000, I bought a chain and sprocket set from JT. They recommended 85w90 gear oil to lubricate the chain

Nicely explained 💐

Engine or gear oil is perfectly fine for dry weather riding, but riding in the rain will wash it off really quickly. Chain lube contains paraffin wax that cures and hardens, and will not be washed away by water. Or at least not nearly as easily as oil. Yes, it is harder to clean, but that is the whole purpose of chain lube - to stick. Also, you don't lube the rollers, you lube the O-rings so they don't dry and wear out. Remember, there is grease on only the pin side of the O-ring, there is no grease on the outside, between the O-ring and the side plate.That part is what you are lubricating.

I use regular wheel bearing grease and have not had to adjust my chains and I don't even clean them but only every 5 thousand kilometers . Makes a mess in my front sprocket cover but not a problem.

You look like Scot Adkins!!😎😎👍👍👍 thanks pal!

I always use gear oil and a tooth brush never lets me down 👍

ive been using it for also every bike i owned.. but while traveling i carry Chain Lube in my bag to use it while traveling...especially going offroad

Thanks, I'm going to switch over to oil, but I will be looking for an easier and clean way to carry it on the bike.

i find that oil only works if you have a automatic oiler. yes its cheap and works as a luve, but the second you start riding it flings off and you have a dry chain which is noisy. At the same time having these chain sprays, although they stay on, they also stick in between the links full of dust and sand, so probably become twice as bad. Once i replace my chain i will most likely go for an oiler, to drip a few drops as im riding.

I use a thin multipurpose lubricant spray from 3M for lube the chain. It goes into the rolls and no dirt sticks on the chain.

I use honda gear oil for my chain. Been using it for years. Always had great results!!

When I used to ride dirt bikes I ran across a chain lube that said it was designed from the military or whatever and had a combination of 50 different oils. When I used that on my chain, just before a long poker run in a desert, my buddies also lubed their chains, at when we took our rest stops, my chain was the only one that still looked wet. Theirs were all dry. I was accused of lubing my chain but I did not. Even when the event was over, it didn't look like it needed lube. I don't remember what the name of that stuff was, but it never flung off and never made an oily mess of the bike. If I could find that stuff again, I would always want chain drive, never a belt, maybe never even a drive shaft. No matter how many times one does something wrong, it doesn't mean one knows what they are talking about. Anything other than that spray chain lube was wrong. I just don't remember what it was called.

Been using the spray stuff for years does make a mess of bike wheels... Had new chain last October it's now mid May not one chain adjustment yet cleaned chain twice.. Okay I might give this a go

How do you oil the sides of the chain? For rust protection.

Totally agree. In fact, your quoting of the bike manual was spot on. Most manuals refer the user to a medium/ heavy gear oil for chain lubricant and that works well. I brush it on with a toothbrush being careful not to actually place the same brush back into the bathroom. Lol 😆 But chain lube is yet another unnecessary gimmick to rack up sales when something much simpler is all that is required. My apologies to those who love chain lube in a can.

One may want to also check the sprocket area for oil flung off and creeping down the engine. It's absolutely sufficient to do this occasionally. I'd been using Scott Oil on my chain for over 40 k km, automatically applied by the McCoi chain oiler. Recently switched to API GL5 mineral chain oil and reduced the oil rate so I can go from Germany to Portugal, pedir uma ou duas Sagres sem álcool 🤩 por favor and go back without even refilling the little oil tank (about 120 mil). And the friction reduction is substantial, compared to conventional chain lube.

I use a Scottoiler that puts oil on the chain automatically. Now that I've replaced the Bandit with a B-King, installing the Scottoiler was the first adjustment.

Truth from the beginning to the end. In addition : presure between sprocket and chain is enormous so both oil and spray must go left or right from the contact spot. Oil comes back to contact spot ('till its entirely gone ) but I'm not sure about spray.

Oil tends to flick off from the chain but stays where it's needed in the bushings the excess that flick off removes the old crud and dirt away with it leaving a relatively clean chain.

i've been using Maxima chain was for years, they don't fling all over the place like oil does. make sure to apply it after the ride when chain is warm.

Anybody who is on top of their chain cleaning and lubrication every 300 or so miles regardless of what chain lube, wax, or oil you use is good 👍 at least they are doing it. On the other hand I have seen way to many people out on their bike and hasn't ever touched the chain since they day they bought it. I speed the hell up and get in front of em as I would prefer to not get hit by a flying chain 😂 Stay on top of your chain maintenance folks

i use 140W transmission oil, very viscous, works like a charm. 40w engine oils arent really working well cos they cant bind well.

I go for a ride to warm the chain then put the bike on an atv lift and let it idle in 1st gear and wipe the chain with kero or diesel (be very carefull to not get near the sprocket obviously). Wipe dry the kero or diesel and use an 80-90 bottle to drizzle the inside of the chain. Then wipe off the excess off and shut off the bike. Set on the floor and leave a strip of cardboard under the chain to drip off any excess. After the first ride wipe the rear wheel off with dollar store generic lemon furniture polish, it melts gear oil or chainlube instantly. Wheel will stay relatively clean along time and the chain will stay lubed for 500 plus miles.

What about high speed centrifugal force? A sticky chain spray is made for that, no?

I use chain saw bar lube apply with a 12mm paint brush..

What heavy duty oil do you use? I’ve been using racing chain lube and it’s made my bike so mucky and thick with black tar 😩

You're also lubricating the o rings, if they get dry, they'll stick, wear faster and let water in between the pins and bushes, cleaning with paraffin and a chain brush works best for me... I use some cheap WD-40 type lube spray on the chain after a ride both sides to prevent rust and put lube in as and when the chain looks dry or sounds rattly....

I have a tutoro oiler system than dispenses 75w-90 oil. Chain stays clean and looking great with nearly zero effort.

I have only ever used gear oil on my bike chains, since having my 1st bike in 77!

But How will you lube the Chain while traveling? I mean if the Lube comes in between the trip then how you will Lube them ?

How long does your chain last? How often do you lube it? I use s100 dry lube and recently replaced mine at 30k km. Pretty average I'd say. No issues with cleaning, rust or binding. I apply some on the chain every 500-1000km or so and wipe off the excess with a tissue. Only issue would be the price, but that's alright.

I have always used oil to lube my chain on my motorcycle The bike I have now is a Honda 750 I put 40 thousand miles on my last chain before replacing it it was fine but I don't want to take a chance so I replaced it

I live on a gravel drive that has a lot of stone dust that kicks up. I don't think oil is the type of lube I want to use. It'll attract the dust and I'll have increased wear.

I'm new to this and getting my first bike this sunday, looking to ride it a lot. I understand that heavy oil is better than the chain cleaners/lube, and i see you apply oil to a few links and then turn the wheel so it gets all aroun. But what do you use the clean the chain first?

If I had a drive chain there is one thing I would like to try. I would like to try diluting tungsten disulfide powder into a bottle of alcohol and then spray the chain. Wait, I just looked it up. Lower Friction has tungsten disulfide spray. Try that as chain lube. I never have, just a suggestion.

Question from a spray can guy. Are you just using like an SAE 30 weight oil? I got some leftover from my lawnmower oil change and was going to try this out! Thanks! 😀

You're right. DID, one of the primary brands of chain, recommend using gear oil - its tells you so on the packaging. I find oiling the chain tiresome as I tend to do many kms at a time, and am having too much fun to bother myself with maintenance. Try a chain olier - Scottoilers ard pretty good, but expensive these days. I recommend a TuToRo oiler - they need no electrical or vacuum connection. My chains last three times as long when they're properly lubricated.

John totally agree,,I normally just use a paint brush and paint(oil on) the chain ,I put the bike on the center stand run the engine and turn the rear in 2nd gear and brush on... Thats it ,,I do this every trip.... Now I just done a european trip and decided to use sprayon ,,,,The can lasted the whole 30day trip,, and the chain just got dirtier and dirtier and the lub only seemed to last a few miles .outer rubbish.... I may fit a chainoiler but would really prefer a chaincase

Having worked with chains most of my working life (motorcycles, chainsaws and agri/plant equipment) the most cost effective lubricant i've found for motorcycle chain is filtered (run the oil through a paint filter to remove any solids) waste engine oil from said machine as it effectively costs nothing and is "thin" enough to penetrate into the pins & rollers (even on O and X ring chains) and link plates of the chain, finally it is a useful means by which to dispose of the used oil and there is anecdotal evidence that the carbon contaminants (why the oils black) aid in the lubrication.

Clean your chain with a rag damped with paraffin, every 2-300 miles, dry it off with a clean rag, apply gear oil to the inside chain run only, I've done this since the 1970's and my chains easily last 30,000 miles with adjustment only every 4-5000 miles required.

yeah thick gearbox oils are perfect for that.... a 140w for differentials works best or if not available a 80w90 or so......

Oil tends to attract more dust which in turn increases friction between components, which in turn requires the chain to be cleaned more often. That's what I found out while maintaining my bicycle. On my motorcycle I've been using the chain spray and can confirm that the stuff is difficult to remove while cleaning the chain!

What grade of oil do you use for lubricating the chain @johnneves ?

Ive tried proprietary chain lubes of one sort or another at various times in the past....and guess what?...they always fling off to some degree or other despite the claims on the can. Now use straight 50's oil, VERY sparingly applied every 3/400 miles. This flings off to some degree also, but works fine for me and is easy to wipe down.

I use motul C2 and always had good results.

Eu tenho um óleo de transmissão de carro motul 80w90, será bom a usar na corrente da moto? Cumprimentos

An old toothbrush and whatever motor oil i have laying in the garage. Wipe the inside of the chain as it turns, wipe the outside of the chain as it turns. Wipe excess with rag. Done.

Parabéns amigo inglês perfeito, lavar a corrente com jato a preção cuidado pode danificar os o-ring esta a explicar no manual, em relação ao óleo concordo e apenas para nao ser metal com metal, muito boa explicação parabéns! abraço

Lol, been doing this for decades! Clean using paraffin and an old paintbrush, then lightly lube using hypoid ep90 chain oil. I dislike waxy modern chain lubes. They attract grit and dirt and actually increase wear. Be careful ti check paraffin doesn’t over soak the chain as it can get past the o rings.

good info

If you use gear oil, the chain will fling the oil to your tires. However, carefully you are, this is going to happen. Use the chain spray instead zero fling i use Dupont!