G7s will outplay them dds.

MB and Jerry.. 2 of the best audio content creators ❤

What kind of animals were you herding?

@@ricardomolina4605 what ya mean

MBE IS THE TRUTH!!!🫶🏾 You have a winner buddy💪🏾

Thanks…I’m so glad to hear another creator showing the new tech and introducing you to DB Drive

🤐 I need them 😊

awesome.. they look very impressive

​@Jerry Aintloud how you think the new G7 amps are? I was looking at the G7 2500.1 or DDM2000 or Salt 3 for my system

db drive has always had a solid rep. they never made a sub-par product.. now they're coming back ..

I agree 💯👍

Man way overpriced I’m going with some v.2 X 18s better sub and half the price $569 on d4s

@@GTILOUD yeah I looked them up. $1700 per amp, and $1400 per sub. thats wild!

​@@1ohmwrecker two X 18 v.2 on a smart 5 it is haha big box tuned to 27fb

It cost overpriced get something else

@@GTILOUD Bro all your comments are talking about how over priced it is but you're going based off the direct website😂, find a local dealer and you'd be surprised how competitive the price is on these.

depends on your local dealer but price is competitive with other big brands.

​@@GTILOUDyeah I googled one 1200 dollars each for the 12......alot of people wouldn't have much more than that in their whole system

these have already been dynoed and went over rated.

I know how to build drop ins. Wouldn’t be a issue

@@JerryAintloud for the G3 12s they are 168 a piece.

B2 all day over db drive

i figured...

The was the first question in my mind, are recones available. Thanks

Each battery should list a range of amp power. Add them up and see if its 10,000 watt capable. I'm thinking it is enough power.

@@JasonWW2000 It adds up to 24,000 watts however, this is as far as I want to go with my electrical. If it couldn't hold this power I just would get some lower wattage amps. I know I could go buy battery wattage ratings but sometimes they're little inaccurate. Especially for wiring amps at half ohm.

@@richardcrim3831 Think of it like this, the amps are going to pull different amounts of current at different frequencies and volume levels. If you can get your sub to play at the right sine wave frequency that creates a 1 ohm load and at max volume before clipping a 5,000 watt amp might draw 500 amps. Two 5k amplifiers, 1000 amps. Different amounts of battery power will determine how much voltage sag you get. Lot's of battery power means a small voltage sag. A small amount of battery power means a lot of voltage sag. The scenario I'm describing is burping in a competition. Is that what your building for? If your going to be building for playing music really loud, it's a different situation. When playing music loud you might be drawing 1/3 to 1/4 of the amperage, so maybe 250-350 amps. That's going to create a lot less voltage sag. If your vehicle is at idling at 500rpm that alt might provide 150 amps. If revving to 2,000rpm it might do 450 amps. So that's also going to effect your voltage sag when the bass hits. So when you ask if such and such is "enough", there are no clear answers, just lots of variables. How are you using the system, driving or parked, what song you play, how loud you play it, etc... That's a beastly amount of alt and battery power you have there. Assuming all your wire and connections are good to minimize loses, I'd say your voltage sag driving down the road listening to music is going to very small. Burping in competition it's going to sag a bit more, but not too bad.

@@richardcrim3831 Also keep in mind that your particular enclosure and subs may not even get down to 1 ohm. You might wire to 0.5 ohm DC, but in actual playing of an AC signal it may only drop to 1.3 or 1.7 ohm. So that 1,000 amp draw might only be 700 amps. That's gonna reduce the voltage sag. Plus you always have a volume knob. If the max volume creates too much sag, you can drop the volume a notch or two. When at high volume watch the voltage level and clip light. If a particular song makes the voltage sag more and you see the clip light turn on, drop the volume a bit. I'd always want a bigger amp than I need just so you know your getting clean power and your not pushing the amp as hard. It will run cooler as well. A smaller amp being pushed really hard might cause early clipping, it stresses the amp more and it runs hotter. So unless money is tight, I'd always go with a bigger amp. Just use self control and make sure you don't overheat your subs. If you crank on them and the powers clean, you can still burn them. If you smell them start to outgas, drop the power down. Let them keep moving air, but at way lower volume. Jerry's full of great advice on these big bass systems, maybe he will chime in.

Thanks for so much information!👌 I'm aware of a lot of it, and yes this is a music build. The electrical I mentioned in my previous comment is what I would want to have if necessary. What I would probably be starting with is a 320 amp Mechman alternator, because at the moment this is my only vehicle and I don't really want to go with another brand for reliability purposes, but if I have to I will upgrade to a JS 450. I will not have any Xs power titan 8s starting just the 320 alt, a 75 ah agm up front and a JP 40ah lithium bank! This is a stealth build in a truck! Yes I know not what you were expecting. All the batteries and amplifier power will be behind the rear seats, so no exposed lithium like C-Max, Yinglong or Headway! In this build. I'm going for more than enough power! I don't have to have these exact amps as they are very expensive I will only be getting these amps if I catch them on discount. The subs I will be using for the build are two deaf bonce sa302 12s rated conservatively 2000 RMS a piece. The Enclosure will be a 3.1 cubic foot fox box enclosure tuned to 35 Hertz, a little small which is why I'm going for so much power. It is the biggest enclosure on the market I could fit under the rear seats of my ram 1500 without having to go fully custom which will be thousands of dollars! The enclosure I plan on buying still pricey though at $550 so it'll be decent to say the Least. The reason why I picked these particular subs is because these were the highest wattage sub that could fit in the enclosure at a somewhat reasonable price that weren't to far from the recommended air space.

Inaccurate

@@pgalanos then give the the real info

db drive has always had solid products. they just kinda slowed down for a while..

The G7 8" subs are killers. 👍

@@stormyyoung6344 there is no real info but the right info. They are under the same ownership they have been under since 1998 and nothing has changed.

🤣🤦🏻‍♂️

check the price at your local dealer 😏

@@MANUELRAMIREZ-gc2cn I looked online lol

@@jermainephillips5179 online almost always will be overpriced by the company because they don’t want to worry about shipping items one at a time. They rather send bulk to a dealer and have them worry abt it.

ask around at your local dealer how much that speed amp is running, 700 is off the website not a dealer.

Speed series is entry level budget

Oh but the nut huggers will hate

I would imagine each brands best products are gonna be very similar.

😂 how nigga sundown has better subs for half the price

How if they don't even come close to making rated power on the box?

@@charlieknoll1269 Which brand are you thinking doesn't come close to rated power?

it's already been dynoed, and did over rated.

I've seen them in action, you have no clue what you're talking about 🤦🏽‍♂

dyno any db drive a7 series and watch it meter higher than its rated power, most of the better db drive products can be pushed past their rated power, the speed series is the cheapest line the carry. Speed series amps are not 700 through a dealer, its only that price if you buy directly.

@@MANUELRAMIREZ-gc2cn anywhere to see an actual dyno ? I only hear people say they do over rated power but finding actual numbers seems to be impossible maybe im not looking hard enough. I personaly have two A7 amps and love them so far.

It’s different and a lot thicker than deafbonce and it has DB Drive cast in it. Also the basket bolts run straight to the bottom plate, so the motor can’t shift