You're welcome, hopefully it will help others who are either rebuilding or thinking about rebuilding their AAA pump.

pro tip : you can watch series on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.

@@elishaedison3807 thanks!!

@Elisha Edison Yup, been using flixzone} for since november myself =)

@Elisha Edison definitely, been watching on flixzone} for years myself =)

Would it help to throw the part in the freezer? I wonder if that will separate the two materials from being fused.

Yep...I wouldn't replace them again. I'd buy a Canpump instead. It's just as good if not better pump for cheaper greencanpump.ca/product-category/pumps/direct-drive-gas/

What size is the shaft? Do you know the model number of the pump that you bought? I'm probably need to buy one I have a 3700 PSI. Honda gx 200

100% agree, This was my first and last pump oil seals. I haven't had the need to do another one but if I do I'll get reverse pliers.

Thanks, it’s by Shinola made in Detroit USA

That was an early video and I wasn't really knowledgable then. I've learned a lot since then and I wasn't using the right technique to install the seals. If you slip them in and lube them up a little the process isn't bad at all. I haven't gotten another similar unit in to rebuild the pump otherwise I should make an updated video. Thanks for watching.

IT WORKED! My oil was milky & now after 2 uses it's still clear. Previously when I changed to fresh oil, after 1 use it was chicken gravy). I replaced only the water-side seal kit (high & low pressure water seals, the o-rings, and spacer washers). Didn't bother messing with the oil seals at base of pistons. In this video, those oil seals looked DARN hard to remove...causing a fella to imagine they were likely in super tight & sealing the oil IN just fine. When not in use & sitting, never were there signs of oil leaking, ever. So the oil seals were keeping the oil IN the camshaft tank just fine.The milkiness problem appears to happen when the high & low pressure water seals fail, bombarding the oil seals with super high pressure water...from the outside. I bet even when those oil seals are new they can't keep out high pressure water escaping past the water seals.

Thank you so much!

If the oil isn't milky your oil seals are still working. 1. I didn't think about removing the crankshaft. One thing I learned afterwards is opening up the oil reservoir of the pump was a mess, it's more like gear oil then motor oil and makes a huge mess. I think once I got a technique down for getting the oil seals out it went ok, but initially getting them out was extremely difficult. 2. I bought the parts from parts places on eBay because they were cheaper. I found the correct part numbers by going to desalts website, looked up replacement parts by my model then searched online to see what would be cheapest, but you an get the parts direct from DeWalt.

@@jamesbubnick You mentioned the oil seals might being included in the hi/lo pressure kit. Did that turn out to be true?

@@StanDiego The oil seal kit and high pressure kit are seperate. The oil seals were around $55 and the high pressure seals around $15

@@jamesbubnick How do I go about talking to you in real time ?....or direct personal message....

@@pioneerpressure1577 reach out to me at James.Bubnick@gmail.com

Thanks for the tip, I'll try it next time. I'm much better at rebuilding pumps now but I haven't tried an AAA rebuild since this video.

The metal pistons aren’t something you replace. On higher end pumps the pistons are ceramic and replaceable but if your metal pistons are damaged it’s not worth the repair.

If I remember correctly some of the unloaders don't have the knob, you don't have to have it but if you want you should be able to get it direct from Simpson.

@@jamesbubnick I have that same exact model. Can you send me link where you bought it?? Does Simpson make those parts? The pump is not from simpson though. I'm confused.

It's 1/4 inch but any hose 1/4 inch or larger diameter will work. The PSI was 4,000 but anything over the rated pump PSI will be fine.

It was my misinstallation. If you put them in correctly it's not an issue. That was my first time putting in seals so I learned for the next time ;)

The hose inlet will be loose until you tighten a nose onto it. Garden hose fitting no the high pressure side

Hmm...I didn't think about that until you mentioned it. I bought the unit used and I think you are right that was the shipping cap and the original owner didn't switch it....

Noticed that bc when I got mine(used also) it was missing the breather cap also. Now I have a similar problem with water getting in the oil after

@@jacksinthebox8029 I checked the parts diagram on DeWalt's site and it shows the same cap/non breather on the pump. But I did buy another one of the same model and it had a breather cap. It might be worth it to email Simpson(they make this unit for DeWalt) and ask about the vent cap and ask if that could contaminate the oil....

AAA are made by Simpson so I called their customer service number and ordered direct.

The pump was a AAA but if failed because of misuse by the original owner.

My experiences has been almost every time it's the unloader is stuck, I'd take it out, clean it with compressed air incase any debris is there, and spray it liberally with silicon lubricant. If that doesn't work try a new unloader but every time I've done that after 5 minutes they get unstuck. I bought another one of the exact same units this weekend with a stuck unloader and 10 minutes of work and it was running great. Also check the filter screen at the hose inlet on the machine, I've had a few units that had almost completely clogged screens. Check the pump oil to see if it's contaminated, the unit needs to sit for a few hours and not run so there is no air in the oil, it should not be milky, if they oil is milky the oil seals were leaking, if the oil is milky those seals would be bad and the unit probably has wear/tear on it and the high pressure seals could be worn out. If you've taken the pump head off the seals should grab on the pistons with a decent amount of force, if it were to just "fall off" the high pressure seals would be shot. You could have some debris in a check valve but I've never had that happen to me, I had 3 units with stuck unloaders and every time they had regular hose pressure. Hope that helps.

@@jamesbubnick thanks for the lengthy reply. I’m pretty mechanic savvy so I don’t have a problem taking the water pump apart to check what’s going on. You mentioned to check the oil to see if it looks milky well the clear glass on the pump (that you can see oil through) does look dark. I noticed it was getting darker every time I used it. I thought it was just the oil turning dark like motor oil does. But when I look at it closer after the pump stopped working I can see what looks like to be metal shaving in the glass you can see through on the pump. The oil looks like glitter. Is this normal and just need to beg changed? Also I will look into the pump and try to replace the parts you mentioned. Do you know where I can get a rebuild kit for the water pump? Just don’t want to spend $400 on a new pump. I just bought this pressure washer for $650 and it doesent even have 20 hours of run time on it.

@@iJustB58 Here is DeWalt's parts site, I used this to find the part numbers and ended up ordering parts off ebay because they were cheaper. www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en AAA pumps are made by Simpson, I spent some time on Simpson's website and emailed customer service to understand what was bad on my pump I mentioned checking for milky oil because if it's milky you could have damage to the crank and connecting rods but if you're unit only has 20 hours I' doubt that. I'd drain the oil and check once you drain it since it's hard to tell looking through the sight glass...plus if the oil is ok you could just fill it back up. The oil should get darker as you use it and simpson recommends changing the oil every 50 hours. I used simpson pressure washer pump oil from Tractor Supply/Lowes. When it's new it looks like regular motor oil. Cat pump oil is a green/blue color. Also you can't let the unit sit for a long period of time without squeezing the trigger while the motor is running, I believe the recommendation is don't let is rest for longer then 30 seconds. The water cools the pump head and if you let it sit there without pumping through new cold water you'll burn up the seals. If you let it sit running for extended periods of time without squeezing the trigger even though you have only 20 hours on the machine the seals are probably damaged. FYI-use pump saver after your doing using it and your pump will last a lot longer.

@@jamesbubnick thanks for the help. I’ll be using that link you gave me to order the parts. The unit has a speed switch from low to high rpm that you can control manually. Every time the unit was on but not being used I would switch the speed to low idle so it not sitting there building up pressure while I’m not using it. Then I would raise the rpm back up before I pulled the trigger again. So weird that I just quit working like that. It worked fine the day before. I washed my car this past Saturday and it wouldn’t pump any water the very next day. It just died outta nowhere. I will order the parts to fix it this weekend. If I have to replace the pump entirely do you know of any other brand pumps I could possibly put on it that will support at least 3800 psi?

@@iJustB58 Even if you lower the throttle the pump is still working/building pressure and building heat. If water isn't flowing the pump isn't able to cool. you're

Never did, I went to the auto store and saw a seal pulled but it couldn’t fit into the pump body

Bummer. That’s where I’m held up at. I think I’ll try to use a pick like you did or maybe mangle the seal enough to pull it out in pieces

@@alexanderrera69 Just be careful you don't scratch the pistons, if you scratch those that will pretty much instantly ruin the new high pressure seals. I was thinking....you could take the entire thing apart and push the seals out but that seems like a crazy amount of work. I think the best way is with a pick just prepare to damage the pick.

I bought the camshaft end shaft seal and pulled the old one by drilling and putting a long screw in the old seal to easily work it out with plyers. You can carefully tap the shaft out once you take the snap ring off on the sight glass end. Be careful and make sure the piston rods slide through the cam lobes on the shaft. After removing the shaft, rods and pistons, there is a grove in the crankcase in each cylinder to easily tap the 3 oil seals out of the top from the bottom. The end seal is about $10. Always take take around the porcelain coated pistons.

The above is for the three oil seals. The high pressure seals are easily removed using reverse needle nose plyers for removing the brass retainer and then the two parts under the brass retainer.

You might adjust the carb for more rpm’s.

You should be able to write dirty words in your concrete with this thing…

I bought them for eBay but I looked the part numbers up first by looking up the parts diagram. Search for your pump model number, usually they are manufactured by either AAA, Cat, Mi-T-M, Cam Pump. If you can't find the parts diagram or parts give the mfg a call(I've done that with great luck)

@@jamesbubnick ok thanks

I say try it...worst case the pump is junk and to replace it is around 260...I have a hard time believing taking it in for a repair would be cheaper.

That's engine assembly lube, I don't know if it's required but I like to use it on assembly. You can buy it at any auto parts store.

I wonder if they will warranty it or if they will say it's from improper use...

@@jamesbubnick Its a design flaw they all leak. So many people complain The halves start spraying water when it gets bad. I used it before and it seemed to leak less after it got warmed up. I have no water in my oil so the oil seals are good Ill probably get screwed and wind up having to fix it myself. Need a better pump

@@jamesbubnick oh yea did that new seal kit come with o rings for the brass water seals?

@@GhettoWagon Yes the kit came with the o-rings for the brass, I think I went to DeWalt's website and looked up my model for replacement parts but the pump model number is on the pump's tag. The kit from mine is part number 5140117-51 and around $55 on eBay. I've taken a part/repaired Mi-T-M, AR, Cat, and AAA pumps. The Mi-T-M parts are really cheap, AR moderate and Cat parts are expensive. I had an AR pump with milky oil but it turned out somehow the previous owner contaminated the oil and the seals were fine. I cleaned it out with brake cleaner till everything was spotless, ran it for 3+ hours and still no water in the oil...

email or call simpson customer service and they will let you know who sells replacement parts

Simpson makes the AAA pumps and is the contract manufacturer for DeWalt

Not yet...maybe one of these day's I'll find one for sale. :)

The motor is great but the pump is just soso...but you can always run it until the pump dies and put in a higher quality one.

Hmm...I'll have to rewatch this video. It's from a long time ago and back then I didn't really know what I was doing. I'm much better at rebuilding pumps today. I'm working on an AR and that video should be up shortly.

Not of that one, My rule is jus take it apart slow, take some pictures or video and try to find a parts diagram. You can do it

eBay, but I looked up the part numbers via DeWalts parts website