Great Job Keith doing it Your way! Awesomeness Extreme!

To find out what voltage your older motor is wired for you can put an clamp on amp meter on one of the leads coming out of the motor. If the amps are 1/2 of the 208 voltage then the motor is wired for high voltage. If it is drawing the rated amp for low voltage the it is wired for low voltage. Thanks for the video Keith.

I am amazed that anyone makes flat belt pulleys on more than a one off basis. Some things never die.

There are a few things to point out. I would have checked the leads with a megger to make sure none of the leads are shorted. I also would have hooked a ground wire with your temporary power to prevent an electric shock had there been a short to ground. You can take the end caps off and rotate the stator 180 degrees, which would put the motor junction box on the backside to allow accessibility to it once it's mounted.

you should rotate the electric motor respect its base, so that the junction box is on the outside. You will have more space to stretch the belt and the electrical connection will be convenient

The growl when you started the motor is an indication of low voltage input. So it is wired for 440.

My uncle retired from the plant where that Baldor moter was made!

looking good keith thanks for letting us watch!

Here's a comment for your algorithm: Nice work!

I recently bought a Clark friction drive drill press from between 1905 to 1910 that has it original DC motor. Thankfully the previous owner made a rectifier so it can be run off AC current. A Similar DC motor would look perfect on that old band saw

Hi Keith The present North American low voltages are 120, 208, 240, 480, and 600 volts at 60 Hz. This is the nominal voltage at the service entrance. The expectation is that a load such as a motor will be located downstream of the service entrance and there will be voltage drop at the motor location. This voltage drop is accounted for in the motor nameplate voltage rating: 115, 200, 230, 460, and 575, respectively. However, the voltage doesn’t have to be exactly the name plate voltage. There is a fairly wide voltage tolerance over which the motor will work properly. As an extreme example, some motors are designed to work correctly for both 200 and 230 volts. By way of contrast, receptacles, etc., have a rating that is higher than the nominal voltage: 125, NA, 250, 500, and 625 volts, respectively. Hope this helps understanding of, for example 240 vs. 230 vs 250 volt ratings. Be well & Best regards, Gottfried

If you pull the end bells of the motor you can flip the rotor and put the wire enclosure on the outside so it can be opened when mounted

24:18 significant flex in the table.

Good Stuff

On the older US Motor, Remove the three screws on each end bell to release the backing plate behind the bearings on each end then the bells will come off easily. Dont try and pull the bearing with the bell, it can break the back retainer.

Good morning Keith. Coming along great. Thanks for the videos.

Good Morning Georgia ⚙️🛠😊

Love the channel Keith. You made the right call by reaching out to someone that specializes in motors With electricity you rarely get a second chance. Either you let the smoke out of the machine or the electricity let's the smoke out of you. If you (the viewer) aren't absolutely competent, pay someone that is. With as many voltages and variations that are out there and how many different configurations exist it isn't worth the chance. WYE/Delta are common configurations, but there are also star and other configurations. That isn't even considering things like cap start. Pay a COMPETENT electrician. The service charge is a lot cheaper than a rewind fee and the wait time.

In the future you could design and have vintage looking cast iron ends made for a new motor. Add a similar sheet metal cover to the gin motor, brass placard, and maybe a brass 3D name casting with a lighning bolt. One of those to-do things that may be a while off but could be sketched up and saved for a later day.

To help up the algoritms for You i make a post here. There is honestly not that much to say here, You deliver absolute top class as expected, every single time!

Thanks. This has been an amazing series to watch. You taking the time and effort to share it with us is much appreciated.

The Diresta Bandsaw is becoming the Rucker Bandsaw.

Thank you Keith.

Thank you for sharing.👍

you do wonderful work I love watching you work

Excellent Keith, Thx!!

Good job, Keith.

Nice job Keith

I'm really enjoying the bandsaw series

Man! I wish you'd painted the motor black with gold pinstripes to match the bandsaw.

you do wonderful work I like watching you work

Good Job

Using a wide flat belt for power is a very old method of power delivery; I would have thought you would have converted to a multiple belt pulley. I haven't seen a flat belt machine tool since I toured the Empire Mine's machine shop up in Grass Valley, CA in 2006. Nice work, Keith.

Nice

The first motor was more of a period with the saw. The Baldor motor is way newer, a mere whippersnapper from mid 1946, one of the earliest to have the new CSA ( Canadian Standards Authority ) mark on the plate as well as the LR ( Lloyds Register ) endorsement..

Never seen broaching with a press! Great to see for the first time

I'm loving this series! It led me to following Jimmy Diresta, who is so eclectic in the things he does that I would think he could probably find a way to make a saw like this. 😉

By the way that motor started it was the wrong voltage. Recently hooked up a surface grinder that was wired 230 to 480... same terrible sound on startup

RPM gauge.... VERY cool Keith !!

'Motoring' right along... 🙂

Keith with my coffee. Nun better.

In the many years I have dealt with motor shops in my area, I have never had the issue where they would just rewind the motor for a single voltage. The only time I have seen it done is when that was the way the motor was originally. It doesn't make sense to me for the shop to do that, it seems to me that it would be just as easy to take all the leads out to the junction box as it is to just take three out.

The no-load speed of an A.C. motor is a function of the supply frequency, not the applied voltage, so the same motor will run slower on a 50Hz supply than on 60Hz, which is the property employed in VFC, variable frequency control systems.

Recently restored a Unisaw I found out in a local junkyard. Went thru the motor identification process and both of the two electric motor shops I trust came to the same conclusion it was a 525-volt motor. They both told me 525-volt motors only have a three-wire output. Then we looked under the side cover on my motor, and it had nine. We rewired to the lower voltage even though there was nothing saying it was a option, and it has runs fine now for over a year or so on my 240 three phase converter.

Hi Keith. Huge fan of the channel. Not particularly familiar with american electric motors (I am french) but you could check the power this motor generates by measuring the current it draws with a current clamp. That could tell you if the power is correct. Of course you would need to have a mechanical load to get its full power but if you assume that is draws 30-40% of its peak current with no load, you could tell by measuring the current if the power draw is consistent with the full 7.5HP or with a quarter of that if the motor runs with the wrong voltage. Maybe that could work. Again great job on the channel 😀

you da man keith!

Keith, the table on your arbor press is loose, I can see it flexing and the nuts on the back are moving. Art from Ohio

I was skeptical of the grey motor against the black on the bandsaw, but I think it still works and blends in nicely.

7:00 The motor will consume as much current as the machine require. In other words, you can lock the rotor and convert the motor into a heating element. The formula for power of a 3-phase circuit is Power = Voltage (V) x Current (I) x Power Factor (PF) x square root of three. A low voltage motor draw more current and need bigger cables and windings. The power stamped on the motor tag is the optimum condition for that specific motor. Current protection is set to the nominal current, as per the nominal voltage.

I would think that you could use Ohm's law to figure out whether it's wired for 220 or 440. You have the voltage (E) and the amps (I). You can find the Ohm (R) reading and compare it to what you have on the motor leads. E decided by I equals R. If the windings are in series for 440 the resistance should be higher than if they were parallel. Or RxI=E. Disclaimer: I am not an electrical engineer.

I am from the town in Kentucky where Browning made the bushing for the pulley. It is a shame they are no longer in business.

Its looking great! I think it would have been more attractive to me have painted the motor black with some pin stripes to match the saw. It would then give the illusion of being much older. Bob

Since you have two 7.5 horsepower motors, I think you could figure out if the old motor is 220 or 440. Measure the DC resistance between any two wires of the 220 volt motor. If the other motor is also 220 it would be of similar resistance. If it was 440 it would be about 4x the DC resistance. This is because of how the coils are wired, series versus parallel.

I'd make sure the intake vents on the motor are well screened. Had a 480v 60hp motor go up in flames at work last week when it overheated due to operator not blowing it out in a month, and the safety guy insisting on and expanded metal guard over the exhaust, leaving the 1"x12" intake holes unscreened, trapping debris inside the motor. When it overheated it threw a spark, igniting residual oil around it, which as it was driving a hydraulic pump, was expected, and tripped a 480v 200a breaker.

My Dad taught me on our Craftsman wood lathe,(when I was a kid) that if a big motor is shorted out, it can suck you in, and not even let you go, being electrocuted ?!

Yeah, the speed depends on the 60 hz…not the voltage. A friend of mine has an oooold chisel mortiser with a 1920s era GE motor…the motor runs perfectly…the only problem was that the contactor needed the contacts cleaned…the bearings were perfect!! We used the same pulley too!!

Hi Keith you should invest in a hammer impact driver to help with stuck screws, they will work where nothing else will.

A quick way to tell if a 3 phase 9 lead motor is wired for the high or low voltage is if there are 3 wires tied together, it's wired for the low voltage. We had many conveyors of varied sizes that used either 7.5 or 10 HP motors. A 10 HP motor was cheaper than a 7.5 HP and the same frame size so we just stocked 10 HP as spares. The motor starters were set to the desired HP. A 10 HP motor won't draw any more current at the normal 7.5 HP load and the overload setting shut down the power if something got stuck and the motor tried to use more than the current required for a 7.5 HP motor.

To make the wires safer on that old motor, you could slide shrink tube over the cloth and that would prevent any shorts in the wiering.

19:08 - First metal cutting lathe I ever used: "slap.slap,slap,slap,slap,slap...." 21:52 - A thou over is just fine? 26:02 - That ain't a thou over, and I hope there's some thrust protection in the motor bearings.

You are the finest in the antique category. Don't beat yourself up so much over the motor search failure. You're looking good with the weight off. keep up the excellent work.

At the 20 minute mark: SHOP KITTY! =^..^=

7:11 Dual voltage electric motors (single phase or three phase) generally draw more current at lower voltage configurations to compensate for not being wired for higher voltage. The HP should remain the same.

The speed in which that US motor came up to RPMs without the low pitch hum while it came up to RPM leads me to believe it's wired 220. You should take the end bells off of that Baldor motor and put the Armature into the stator the opposite way it is now then your wiring box will be out where it's easy to get to it. But that is the thoughts of a retired Sparky

To determine whether a 3 phase motor is wired for 230 or 460... 3 phase motors 20HP and above typically draw about 1/3 rated current at no load. Smaller 3 phase motors draw a little more. To check the old motor I would power it at low voltage and measure the current, if it's about 1/3 then it's wired for low voltage. If the current is significantly less than 1/3, then it's likely wired for high voltage. If I suspected high voltage wiring, then I'd (after first trying low voltage) wire it to high voltage and measure the current, which should measure not much more than 1/2. When testing on high voltage be sure to only run for a couple seconds, in case it's wired low voltage, as the motor will draw significantly more than full current and you don't want to burn the motor up. Ideally you'd want to be using a proper motor starter and overload setup to do these tests too. As others have said, before applying power at all, check for shorts to ground and ground the frame of the motor for your safety.

check with your motor guy again. the current draw should give you a good answer to the voltage needed. if wired 220 would draw much more current. either way it should come close to rated current on the motor tag. great videos Dave

Looks like your press table needs some adjustment if that’s possible. It is not tight and moves away from the base while you are pressing.

Hey Keith? You do check isolation from the windings to the case/ground before you turn mystery motors on, right?

in Germany there are always 6 cables coming out of the motor. Y and Delta can then be switched with this. Y 230V / D 400V Y is used to start the motor and switched to D when the motor is running. The speed depends on the mains frequency. In US 60Hz in Europe 50Hz

you render me a bit jaleous, that band saw is a marvel. in fact, you're better with the Baldor motor, at least it runs well and the company is still in operation, your old vintage motor needs attention, probably rewinding. I'm anxious to see that saw in operation. very good project very good video

It wont truly be a Jimmy Diresta tool until it has his name prominently displayed. You should add it in the same style as the manufacturers plate.

Might want to check that the interior is clean, the cooling are travels through the inside of the motor and could be full of dirt/dander that could be a fire hazard. A TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor would be better in this application because of the sawdust generated by the saw and this mode of motor cooling.

AC motors run at the line frequency = 3600 "rpm." This base speed is divided by the number of poles -- two in this case. Thus, a 2-pole synchronous motor would run at 1800 rpm = 3600/2 in the USA. Shorted rotor motors "slip" a little making the expected speed 1725 rpm; they will slip more under heavy load and less free running. The torque is proportional to I^2... the maximum torque is proportional to V^2. I would 'loosen' the tension adjustment to about the first 1/4 or 1/3 of its travel to allow more range as the belt stretches. I would swap the motor's end caps so the wiring is more convenient.

I am surprised you did not take the large old motor to a motor shop to have it gone over and used.

Keith talking about the bushing and the cat jumping in the back. Just priceless.

You ultimately can figure it out if you have an Amp clamp .

Curious to see if Keith will mount a blade and spin it up.

Perhaps, you could make a façade to put over the motor to make it look more antique than it is.

Quick question. Why paint the motor gray while the rest of the project is black?

Broaching always made me nervous. I had a few explode on me under pressure.

Make the motor match, black, or contrast, red.

The field coil is wired in delta configuration perhaps?

The connection box with a screw-on caps is a horrible mess. I have recently opened a 70 year old motor on a milling machine manufactured in Socialistic Czechoslovakia and everything was wired to a civilized terminals. With a clear indication of which way shorting leads were supposed to go for star or triangle (3 phase 220V vs 3 phase 380V) wiring. Like they knew 70 years ago that I was going to connect it to a VFD that converts 1 phase 230V to 3 phase 230, instead of our standard 3 phase 380.

One question I have, is Mr Diresta going to have you build guards for the machine? coming into to a new world With an older machine, I'm sure OSHA would have some kind of interest if this was going into a factory setting. And if i was building a guard for the machine I would build it to the old world charm that the machine emulates, Like a wrought iron wire guard. Well, then again Mr Duressa may only just want his machine back. LjN

With that Peckerhead sticking out of the motor on the FRONT, it looks like it will take half or more of your belt travel for adjusting the belt?

Question? What type of belt are you going to use. Leather , rubber canvas or composite? A while back I had a leather belt made for my American Straight Needle sewing machine by Al Bino Industrial belting. Also thank you for the information on the paper pulley company.

9:00 minutes into video and I have a stupid questions, the old motor is casting ends part of the motor or housing for a motor like the second one? could you put newer motor into old one? back to the video

11:58 Hi Keith ! Your little tachometer is off calibration - the Baldor motor, unloaded, will be running just under 1800 RPM, which is the "synchronous" speed of the internal rotating magnetic field for a common 4-pole motor operating on 60 Hz power. 1500 RPM on 50 Hz in Europe]. Fully loaded at 7.5 HP, it will run at the nameplate rating of 1725 RPM. Classical induction motors must slow down [aka "slip"] below sync speed in order to generate any torque. Very simple concept, very inexpensive to build, very reliable. Mr. Nikola Tesla's invention was a GIANT leap forward for all of humanity.

Wish youd used a 4 jaw to dial in that bushing for a more exact bore location. Might of made that pulley run a little better?

If they had watched the first episode then you wouldn`t have to tell them.

SILLY QUESTION, YOU'VE HAVE SO MANY THINGS FOR THIS SAW, WHY BUY A MOTOR PLATE, LOVE THE CHANNEL

13:25 Notice that the Amps drawn at 230V is twice the amount vs 460V, RPM & HP should remain the same.

Comparing the phase to phase resistance of the old 7HP motor to the new 7HP motor wired for 230V should tell you. If the old one is roughly twice that of the new one it's 440V.

Well... it wouldn't be that big a jump to go from making ice picks to making bandsaws, would it? :)

How would it look if the motor was painted and striped the same as the bandsaw?

👍👍👌👌😍😍

My drill press runs off a flat belt.

would it be easier to just add a 3 phase 220 volt VFD to make up the difference in voltage

At 24:05 time stamp I see the Stoker Engine on a pallet in the background while you are broaching the paper pulley. Must mean the Stoker Engine is up next for a video series of machining work?????? I really hope so!!!

An earth connected would be much safer for if there was a winding to frame fault that's dangerous. Better still megger the windings to frame.