You're the man! I like how you went about this job. The power assist idea/option to get it apart was AWESOME! Thanks man

Great job. Very clear. Thanks for a short and thorough vid!

Thanks for the video. I’ve done my share of mechanic work, but managed to never do u joints until tonight. Glad I watched this video.

Good lighting, sharp images and informative. Good job.

Awesome video! Worked as it should with the extra hour it always takes 😅 definitely helped having a buddy with the u joint press

@19:30 "I ain't gonna lie to ya, I'm close to throwin a few tools". Spoken like a true gentleman. Well put, and glad to see it is not just me! 🙂

Thanks man. You help me with understanding actually what has to happen

Great Video Very informative You did a excellent job demonstrating and talking the process through Thank You for sharing

Excellent video, very slow and clear. Great job.

I've done lots of wrenching but never did this before. Your video was very helpful. I am inclined to used never seize on lot's of the places just so I can get it apart in the future. Cheers from Canada

About to do this on my 15, thanks for making the video.

Hey, that using the power steering to assist removing the unit bearing is genius, thanks!

That was a fantastic video! Great lighting... no bull, way to go!

Pro tip, you don't need to separate the hub from the shaft. Makes it a bit heavier, but one less step, one less thing to torque. Great video

Thanks for the video I thought it was very helpful!

Great video! I appreciate the way it's done. I think we've all tossed a few tools in frustration. Thanks for showing the things that are often edited out. If I did a video, the audio would just be one long beep!

Got this job done day before Christmas at my shop, someone before i ham-fisted the hub adapter nuts during a rotor replacement and i had to use a 6ft pipe to loosen them. got the actual hub off with a little effort, didn't take the "tie rod" off, just used a deep socket and long breaker bar on the 2 front hub bolts, i had to pry the shaft a little to get it out, was careful not to damage the inner seal when removing and installing. i always cut the u joint out of the shaft vs beating on it or using a press, i cut the cross out using my grinder with a thin blade and sometimes use my torch and whittle it out quickly then i just drive the cups out and the little bit of heat loosens up the grease and makes it easier to come off also, lightly sand the cup areas on the shaft to remove burrs and rust and the cups go in so much better. Got 'er done. again, good video isolated diesel !

Awesome video brother 🤙

Thank you for the detailed video

Great video! Thanks for the instructions, I’m gonna tackle this now on my 06 Cummins.

I got a Milwaukee ratcheting wrench and I love that thing

beware of licking the axle shaft !!! Good Video got this job to do tomorrow at my shop

One trick I have learned doing these so often especially when they r rust welded in is to use the balljoint press like you say to do then if it's not quite enough take a hammer and whack it a few good times on the end of the press it'll send the vibrations straight down and into that cap and will almost always 'pop' loose! Very rarely do I need to use the press while brakiing out the air hammer.

Great vid thanks man

Well done sir! Answered all my questions and I was able to make a list for the tool store.

Great video! 👍

Ya I learned .good video you made

Thank you so m uch for the video.

Put ujoint in vise cradling open jaws tap on heavy part of axle ujoint a pop right out caps do too

Great video

Great helpful

If you’ll take the tie rod end off the hub bolts are easily removed. Hub is easily removed by using a thin chisel all four corners and then follow with thicker chisel to take out hub. Tap axles back in if it comes out

A little grease on the inner splines helps pass the seal. Anti-seize on the outer splines and the outer portion of the wheel bearing will insure removing the hub next time is MUCH easier.

Good video

Next time you have to pull the hub disconnect the tie-rod so you can turn the knuckle more and fit your impact on the hub bolts.

good video, well done. its funny u got pissed i usually throw something right after i bust the shit out of my hand or something. i would hate videoing myself doing this stuff so thanks for doing it.

They have to team passage ways for the grease to travel through the u joints when they make them for grease zerks. That makes the u joint weaker and they won’t handle as much torque.

Great video better instructions then my brother he skips things like removing cutter pin or getting the hub off the axle its heavy as shit holding it why he knocked the joints out but can be done

Replaced mine on my 06 with greasable a few years ago and am like you about being on top interchanges greasing joints and its already out. Lots of good tips in your video i wish i could have seen then to save heachache amd frustrstions back then. One of those is the ball joint tool - seems like a must have for these dodges, where'd you get it or have a part number? Thanks again

Just worked on a farmers truck that let his u joints go for so long it oval’d out his stub shaft. If your in a bind and need to move your truck just pull it all out then put just the stub shaft back in with no u joint so it hold your hub etc in place. You can move it but don’t drive it far, if you had to wait on parts!

I am currently in the middle of this very same job. Although I'm not having as much luck. The hub is stuck tightern dicks hat band. I'm working on an 03 3500 Cummins. And the customer must constantly spray rust-n-bind all to hell on everything. The hub will not let go at all.

Awesome video, do you have a part number for the u joints? Having trouble tracking them down. Thanks!

My 2012 looks and sounds like the exact same problem, so thanks for the video help here. Did replacing the U-joint fix the issue? Mine (and yours) looks like it's also leaking fluid from the axle housing indicating a bad inner seal too. Wondering if I need to do that while I have it torn apart? Did you have to replace inner seals too soon after?

Milwaukee and Tekton. You already got my attention lol

I have an 08 Ram 2500 automatic with Cummins. have everything off but have a couple questions. should I have the truck in 4 wheel drive or does it not matter? working on drivers side and axle doesn't want to come out. before I put some force on it want to be sure I'm not missing something. btw, great vid series

You by chance have your u joint part numbers on hand. I’m about to order some and every site I’ve been to contradicts the previous site on what will fit

Not sure why mine aren’t as loose as yours. Gets a bit better when I hit it but still a bit stiff. Great video though it gave me a lot of insight and tricks to use, now I just gotta figure out what I did 😂

what size is the castle nut and would it be the same as my 2012? Great video!

Unfortunately my truck has spent it's life in the north. Land of road salt. It is a solid chunk of rust. Having the time of my life!

Thanks for the vid. I watched it several times and just did mine. Even ordered the same ball / u joint kit and milwaukee impact tool. They had been noisy for better part of a year . Not as tricky as I thought it would be using your method. Just waiting on my manual locking hub kit to finish it up. How are you liking yours by the way. Thanks again

You need a big fan to blow air on you. That's what I do when wrenching in hot temps. Might make filing a bit harder. You could do audio voice over in editing too

NICE WORK THERE ANY MY DONE AS WELL

I think we have a case of “High boost 4 wheel launch syndrome”.

@22:35 is the yoke U Joint cap hole supposed to be all oblong shaped? looks like a new yoke should be used.

What wheels are those? how did you get them to fit? How much they cost? I love those wheels!

So what are the signs and symptoms of bad U joints?? How do you test them to see if they are bad? I have a 2006 2500 5.9 and I feel some small clunking in my brake pedal when I brake, what could that be a symptom of?

4 good licks, got it!

Hey I'm a ol tool chucker from waay back lol,do you think it would be beneficial to load the grease to the joints while they are open?

Do I have to take the axle out of the hub to remove Ujoint? I don’t have that size socket for the axle nut.

@Isolated Diesel, what power tools did you use? Makes the job 100X faster.

Question for you my friend 2007 6.7 when turning left theirs a clicking sound and only turning left would you say it’s the u joint on the axle?

I am doing mine right now and I don't have a socket big enough or the hub nut at 5:37 in your video. Do you remember what size the socket is that I need to buy. Thanks.

Was a change in the way the truck drove what let you know this replacement needed done? Ive got a shake under load in a certain speed range and trying to figure it out

Did your truck start clackin when that u joint was goin out ?

What electric impact you using I can’t seem to find a strong one

Hey where did you get those center caps?

When you pulled the axle out, is there anything in the differential that can fall out of place. Someone told me to put the truck into 4x4 when doing this?

So axles just slide out? No retainers inside the diff?

Can you drive ur truck even when those u joints go out or no?

They get worn and caps wont stay in mines welded just lil tack to hold caps in place beat cost of new axle

I have a 2006 Dodge ram 2500 5.7 hemi power wagon when I stop at a light my truck stalls if I put in neutral it will stay running and it have a slow acceleration something anyone no why it would do this there no engine light on

How long did this take ? An hour or 2 ?

Is it true you have to put it in 4x4 before pulling half shift out ? Heard it drops somthing in the pumpkin or somthing if you don’t

Would this be the same for a '14 model dodge

Are the 14's the same?

Do you have to pull the axle tho?

Did you say 1in 11-16 socket or 1in and 1-16th

what are those rims

Kk

Are you for hire?

Nobody and i mean nobody on youtube shows taking the stuck hub to the axle off a 4wd 2500 3500 etc. NOBODY. someone prove me wrong by puting links below me. PROVE IT. I was gonna pull my axle and put the bearing hub and axle in my 20 ton shop press. Instead I used a 3 jaw pulley ( after all other methods failed). Turn 3 jaw middle screw, hit with hammer, turn hit with hammer, spray juice repeat. Leave on overnight under pressure. Problem was you can't hit axle back because the yolk hits the axle housing and the axle won't go back any farther. So my boy (owner of this duelly 6.7) held a breaker bar between the hub and spindle so it wouldn't reseat itself not letting axle go back out of bearing hub because yolk hits the axle housing. Then we could hit the screw on the 3 jaw press with results of axle going backwards out of hub. I know its a 3 jaw puller.......but I hope you understand its pulling off hub while shoving axle back. Isn't it? I may not have needed to use breaker bar to keep bearing hub off of spindle but I didn't like seeing the axle yolk smash into the axle housing. It was long and not fun. Grind all rust off. Cover with anti seize when install new bearing hub. My words may not be correct so read what I mean and not what I write. Im a veterinarian. If other suggestions out there post them to help someone else as well. Thanks and I hope this helps someone. take care.

What size socket for the axle nut?