Solid advice!

No. That is NOT a Constant-Velocity (CV) Joint. CV-joints have larger ball-bearings. Look 'em up. The design is quite different.

Driveshaft side, no, on the H-yoke side, yes

joe t the centering yoke mates with the shaft itself It's held in by the ujoints

Raffi Kassardjian thanks a lot.

Could be bad ujoints, but also could be out of balance. A driveline shop should be able to tell if it's bent or just needs some ujoints

This was for a Jeep, but many vehicles use the same type

TDONLEY91 new ujoints should always come with new clips

KSuspension great man, thanks. just ordered all 3 u joints and your centering yoke/bearing with your part numbers. going to try this next weekend. I have a harbor freight press, hopefully that makes this job quicker

TDONLEY91 the press will save you a lot of time! Good luck with the work!

yes, some shafts have a rubber seal. I don't remember the technical name for it, and they're fun to try and find at times. I've only ever found them online to order in.

xjjeeper I honestly couldn't tell you bud. As far as I know, the 760x is the Spicer number and the parts store has the same numbers in their system for this style ujoint I wish I could be of more help

no worries mate . ill get an order sorted with rock auto . hopefully the same parts are used for the xj diesel

xjjeeper I'll do some digging as well to see if I can't find anything And if rock autos shipping is more than $30, let me know. Ujoints are light, I can ship some to you if needed

xjjeeper assuming they're the same ujoint

dust boot. hard part to find

A short shaft makes the angles steeper, leading to vibration. Every time the drive shaft rotates, the shaft has to accelerate and decelerate. The double cardan does this inside itself.

Coltan Vollrath should be the same 1310 ujoint

Ok thanks!

cam bertels didn’t lose a single one, still going strong

KSuspension living on the edge though, lol.

@@KSuspension You got lucky. MUCH better putting it in a vice and slowly pressing the caps in. Get them pressed in a little to the trunnions on the cross will engage each set of needles together and then you can hammer them home or just use the vice. I have rebuilt a bunch of these since the 70's, yes I am old.

charlie dee age just helps with experience :-) we use a press every time, just trying to show others how to go by hand if a press isn’t available

What are you stuck on? It’s pretty self explanatory. If you need some guidance or extra assistance, email us and we’ll do what we can suspensionlifts@gmail.com

jim gaffney this is very true! However, we installed sealed ujoints so we didn’t have to cover that part lol But you are indeed correct!

It shouldn't be jerking or vibrating I'd check the rear end for any damage, unless you have a locker And the front end sounds like possibly worn hubs or bushings Jack it up and start moving stuff, see what's loose

+Raffi Kassardjian thank you for your help . can you tell me if you know the long track rod end with a curve in the bar . if the bushes on that are gone would that cause the problem thx nick

+nigel green that's your track bar, if the bushings are gone, then that means you're experiencing a minor "death wobble" factor while moving or hitting a bump. Change that and make sure everything is tight

+Raffi Kassardjian thanks again mate l am going to check it all out in the next few days days a will let you know how l get on thx nick

MrMrsregor correct you can, however most yokes, especially around the rust belt get pretty hammered and aren't so useable. Also, the one we are using is a perfect crossover from ACDelco and only costs $35. Which is on average only $15 more than the ball+spring rebuild kit for the yokes If it's apart, might as well just throw in a new one if possible. But you're correct, you can rebuild them yes

cool, good to know. thanks for all of your great videos. love the hat too

MrMrsregor Thank you very much! And yes, the hat rocks! Sadly the maker of them no longer is in business.

We have a big one now

Point of the video was to show how to do it with the basics A press is always easier We had a 20T press behind the camera

monc1ne it's mainly sold for jeeps, however the concept could be used for almost any vehicle with a similar setup I would contact IRO for more information on cross references

ok, thanks. im wondering because on my 02 tacoma it started to make a squeak when im reversing and will start to replace u joints to see if it will fix the problem. trying to find videos to help. thanks!

monc1ne for some reason I thought this was our hack n tap video The cardigan rebuild is for any shaft that uses ujoints Doesn't matter the vehicle My apologies

Ok cool works then

Grease ports weaken the body casting. none greasble are the better option. The are WAYYY more resistant to water or any junk getting into them. Thats why they are more expensive.

shaine pearson Can you back that up with some proof? Appreciated! (FYI, in all my heavy offroad endeavors not once I broke a greaseable UJ, check my channel for the abuse lol)

My slip yoke is making noise and looks as if its broke ... I wish I knew if I could use newer style shaft that does not have slip yoke instead its a enclosed bearing

We’ve fixed the audio issues in our newer videos. Very sorry

Yup, we love having a vice and table top, we usually just use our press and are finished with the job in about 10 minutes.

Steve Hunyady thanks for the tip

My Land Rover Approved, kept breaking c-clamps, Hammer did the trick.

@@Morpheux1 Always use a vise or a press, beating on them will put the cap at an angle & will scar the needle bearings as they are pushed into the male section of the joint. Please point this out to your viewers. If you are going to TRY to teach at least be responsible. This way of BEATING them in with a hammer can & will shorten the life of the joint. I think helping is a good thing, BUT at least do a little homework & investigation into the subject matter before you warp the minds of others. I am a 40 year builder of autos & trucks, motorcycles. good luck on your project, sincerely.

actually you are fine using a hammer as long as you put something between the cap and the hammer to equal out the force. old socket piece of pipe board etc...

Your wrong, its fine to use a hammer, and it wont hurt the needle bearings at all, they take side load, meaning they are around the stub not on the end. Its also better to use sharp fast force like from a hammer, presses can and will bend the yoke if you get a stubborn one. Whereas a hammer (like an impact gun) moving the cap in fast sharp increments will not hurt the yoke. Sometimes explosive force is less damaging then steady force. It is possible to mess up the needles if you allow them to fall out of circumference around the stub but youl know if that happens right away.