Dress Historian explains the difference between Bodies and Stays | 16th and 17th-Century ‘Corsetry’

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History Lessons with Dr Sarah Bendall

History Lessons with Dr Sarah Bendall

Күн бұрын

What should we call the torso-shaping female foundation garments of the sixteenth century and seventeenth century? Were they pairs of bodies? Bodices? Stays? Corsets? How were they worn? Were they underwear or outerwear?
Today, I'm going to give a brief overview of the origins, evolution and changing terminologies of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, mainly in England, France and the Dutch Republic.
Why don't I use the term stays to refer to a boned upper garment before the 1680s? Why should we be careful when we use the terms 'smooth covered stays' and 'corset' when talking about foundation garments in the 16th and 17th centuries? Keep watching to find out!
0:00 - Intro
0:41 - Bodies in the 16th century
5:31 - Reasons for the emergence of bodies: renaissance power dressing
10:20 - Bodies in the 17th century
11:51 - Bodies and bodices, under or outerwear?
14:37 - The emergence of stays; or, why we shouldn't use the term stays before the 1680s.
16:32 - The differences between bodies and stays in the late 17th century
For an overview of stays and corsets in the 18th and 19th centuries see Abby Cox's video • A Dress Historian Expl...
For a more extensive overview of this topic, read my book! www.bloomsbury.com/uk/shaping...
For links to all the images used in this video, see my blog:
sarahabendall.com/2023/12/29/...
Dr Sarah Bendall
www.sarahabendall.com
/ sarahbendall_dresshistory
/ sarahabendall

Пікірлер: 47
@blacktulip1064
@blacktulip1064 6 ай бұрын
Thank you for this! Keep on with the 17th century - no one seems to be at all interested in this century and there are a few of us who are fascinated by the period. 🧡💙
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
No worries at all. It’s a real shame that this century doesn’t get the same love as others. My mission on social media is to make to cool haha
@blacktulip1064
@blacktulip1064 6 ай бұрын
Yes, please do that! 🥰@@sarahabendall
@kikidevine694
@kikidevine694 6 ай бұрын
I think it's because there aren't as many extant pieces so it's a lot more conjectural than later periods
@FantasticalFolliesCostuming
@FantasticalFolliesCostuming 6 ай бұрын
I'm definitely guilty of calling them stays instead of bodies--glad for the clarification 🤣 It's also so nice to see another content creator interested in this time period. It doesn't get enough love or attention, and it should.
@MossyMozart
@MossyMozart 6 ай бұрын
As a lay person with a passing interest, this topic has always confused me. I appreciate the clarification.
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
No worries at all, glad it was helpful!
@AlasterGrey
@AlasterGrey 6 ай бұрын
I absolutely want to see the video you mention around ten minutes in, about women's body shape and association with youth and marital status (I don't know how directly I can say it without angering youtube). This video was lovely -- thank you so much for excellent information about this neglected time period! I've moved your book up to the top of my wishlist and can't wait to read it.
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Thanks so much!! I will definitely get around to make a video on this topic - it’s super fascinating (and a bit… icky )
@hereitis.2587
@hereitis.2587 3 ай бұрын
@@sarahabendallicky is also part of history and truth. Sunlight is great for this! I’d love to know more men’s desires in those days in comparison to today’s. I’ll fill in the blanks through my own firsthand experiences being a New Orleans bartender for decades and living in Asia almost a decade.
@ClueFinderDirtDigger
@ClueFinderDirtDigger 6 ай бұрын
Your book is such a treasure; so excited to see you on KZfaq!
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Ah that’s so lovely to hear, thanks so much!
@ladyjusticesusan
@ladyjusticesusan 6 ай бұрын
I’m in Florida, USA, so I just ordered your book but from a U.S. seller. I sure hope that’s ok and that you get the royalty from the sale. I never know if I’ve done the right thing. I didn’t know you had a book and I’m delighted to find you and hear your knowledge. Thank you for posting, you are appreciated. It’s going to be a long few days waiting for your book to arrive!
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Ah thank so much, I hope you enjoy it! We don’t make many royalties on academic books - perhaps a rant I can go into in a video some day - so I’m sure it’s fine regardless. Thanks so much for your support! 😊
@clairewulfstudio
@clairewulfstudio 3 ай бұрын
this is a great video! i'm also really interested in fashion throughout australian history
@Eyrenni
@Eyrenni 6 ай бұрын
Amusing note about how we name things based on where they're from but with food: the danish (pastry bread). In Denmark it's called "Vienna bread" (to translate it). So the Danish got it from Austria and the English speaking world got it from Denmark. Overall, very good and informative video!
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
It's so fascinating isn't it! I didn't know this about the Danish/Vienna pastry. French farthingale rolls were called 'Flemish' rolls by the Spanish, so there's an interesting history there about the transmission of this garment to Spain via their territories in the Low Countries
@goldogwolly
@goldogwolly 6 ай бұрын
Loved this, informative and properly cited while still being accessible enough to watch with dinner! Looking forward to what you create next!
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching 😊
@LariLesque
@LariLesque 6 ай бұрын
Brilliant. So informative, thank you.
@aksez2u
@aksez2u 6 ай бұрын
Thank goodness for all those thieves or we'd have little record of what those undergarments were called in each time period! It's a shame and surprise to me that nothing exists (letters, books, manuals, etc) that explain better the meaning and evolution of the terminology.
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Yes it really is annoying that nothing better exists! We have lots of French dictionaries but of course terminology was different there. I think things just become so common place that everyone already knew (or assumes you knew) what it meant. The joys of language! 😊
@savvygood
@savvygood Ай бұрын
Sounds like a good book
@anngray9171
@anngray9171 6 ай бұрын
I thought I would add this, as when I'm gone, it will be forgotten. If it's useful information I'm glad! My relative born in the 1880's and her sisters all had, what I thought, a very peculiar practice. ( apart from never taking their hats off while paying visits, coats yes, hats never) They all wore something they called a chemise, a white linen or cotton under garment, before putting on their 'stays'. The stays, yes plural, because they were two separate, boned pieces held together by very long laces. When laced up, of course, the parts came together. The lacing was at the back, but designed to tie at the front, in the absence of a lady's maid, I presume. As well as this there was a row of hooks and eyes in the front. The bones were not real bones, but very small circles of steel ? wire, entwined with each other in a strip that ran from the top of the stay, to the bottom of the garment, in a slot provided. This garment ended where a bra, today, would begin. As for the bodice, I can say that middle class little girls wore bodices over their vests in winter. The garment was sleeveless, a cotton fleece type lining gave it a slightly padded look. Some were pull over the head, some had 3 rubber buttons down the front to help pull over the head. But they all had the curious feature of having a tape running from the shoulder of the garment to the bottom. It seemed to hold the garment in shape. I think this had died out by the early 50's...thank God!
@janeayres8772
@janeayres8772 6 ай бұрын
When I was young, in about the late 60's, a girl at my dancing class, in Manchester UK, used to wear a bodice. She said she was made to wear it, and she said it was for warmth, but I could also imagine it being useful for modesty. We'd be about 10 or 11, I think.
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for this fascinating comment! That’s so interesting that your relatives still called them stays in the late 19th century and that they were bra-like garments. You do see transition stays during the regency period that end mid-rib cage so it sounds a bit like those. Bodices seem to have endured in traditional clothing - folk and peasant costume - after the 17/18th centuries. But you also hear them referenced a lot in the 18th and 19th centuries in relation to children’s dress - so it seems like that still stuck in the 20th century too. So much food for thought, thanks so much!
@tigercomet23
@tigercomet23 6 ай бұрын
Wonderful video, thank you, this info on bodies/bodice (specifically being outerwear for informal settings for lower classes) is very helpful for me as I try to construct a slightly historically accurate renaissance fair costume :)
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your costume!
@meowzerzzz
@meowzerzzz 5 ай бұрын
Interesting! Please keep making content ❤
@feliciasjoberg9886
@feliciasjoberg9886 6 ай бұрын
10:14 Yes! Talk about boobies! Interesting that a smaller size was in style
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Yes it goes to show that beauty is very subjective and fluctuates a lot. I’ll pop that video on me to make list 😊
@miraitrunks766
@miraitrunks766 5 ай бұрын
I'm starting to think I should have focused on Edward IV's wardrobe, and how much he copied Burgundy then, when it came to his magnificence rather than a manuscript. I'm so glad this popped up on my KZfaq suggestions. ~MV
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 5 ай бұрын
Hi Melissa! Love that your algorithm brought you to me again. Hope you're well!
@miraitrunks766
@miraitrunks766 5 ай бұрын
@sarahabendall Had to happen eventually, I watch too many docos and KZfaq historians. Well enough! Looking forward to more videos.
@hwizell7478
@hwizell7478 6 ай бұрын
Corset bodies Cour d’Alene coconut palms Pruned fascination #haiku #fascination #corsetbodies #palmtreeprune
@angelairidescenceartglass6289
@angelairidescenceartglass6289 5 ай бұрын
I wonder if the naming variations are more of a product of non-standardized spelling and the great vowel shift than multiple names for the same garments. Edit - referring to “bodyes” which may have actually been the phonetic spelling of the modern bodice. In which case the “bodies” are all a description of a bodice (with or without boning or stiffening).
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 5 ай бұрын
Yes definitely! What we think of as being few different words and garments are actually just the product of non standard spelling at the time to refer to the same garment. Early modern English is much less precise when it comes to differentiating between types/variations of a garment compared to a language like french.
@kikidevine694
@kikidevine694 6 ай бұрын
Would the bodies be the 'stay' for the unstructured Mantua, hence why the body started to be called the stays?
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Yes I think this is spot on! I do allude to this in the last section of the video, but you’ve said it much more articulately. 😊 The ‘stays’ (ie. stiffening) commonly come to be worn separately to the gown (which was already common with bodies in relation to waistcoats etc) but becomes much more common with adoption of mantua gowns
@blacksurge144p
@blacksurge144p 6 ай бұрын
how did that paur of bodies get under the floorboards haha
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 6 ай бұрын
Good question! We don't really know. There is a history of concealed garments in the UK and its colonies (USA, Australia, etc) of clothing (mostly shoes) being placed in the walls and chimneys of buildings. We call it 'deliberately concealed clothing and think this was some sort of superstitious belief, but these bodies under the floorboards don't really seem to fit with that idea.
@joannecarroll5504
@joannecarroll5504 2 ай бұрын
You have a lot of interesting things to say, which I'd love to learn, but, (& please don't take this personally, as I'm trying to offer constructive criticism, explaining in the hope that it helps you) if you're going to do this long-term, you'd benefit from the help of a vocal coach. Your knowledge & qualifications are unquestionable, but this current fashion where young women adopt Creaky-voice affect, combined with the rush of nerves & your logical attempt to project your voice, while unfortunately having the nasal eastern states accent, makes it feel (as also occurs with many American KZfaqrs) like you're talking AT viewers instead of TO them. A coach could help you with your breathing which will make things much more comfortable & relaxed for you & can teach you how to lower your voice so that you project from your body & not from your head. Work expenses can be tax-deductible & it could be a great investment in your channel, which has the potential to be amazing. Best wishes & good luck.
@sarahabendall
@sarahabendall 2 ай бұрын
Hi there. I’m not American. What you can hear is my Australian accent. This is how myself and a nation of people speak, I cannot change this. Thanks for stopping by!
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