You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

Could you tell me , your maytag model number ? thanks

Good work Mathew!

Could you tell me , your maytag model number ? thanks .

Could you tell me , your maytag model number ? thanks

Good work Stephen

Great job Craig!

Good job thank you Ray!

Dick Lesh Thanks.

***** I will always check you stuff first from now on ordered part today put in tomorrow thanks again

All I had to do was use a 'little' bit of lithium grease on the axle front and back. No it doesn't catch fire unless its put directly on the heating element so.. save your time and expense.

+Leisure suit Larry Glad we could help.

You bet! Thanks a mIllion. I got this one fixed, i switched out parts from a Gas Atlantis to repair a 1st generation Electric Neptune. No Kidding. the parts are all the same even though mega years are between them. The neptunes partner ( front end loader) bit the dust a few years back , after 2 full rebuilds. when it died the last time I just gave up and went and got a top loader. This dryers main problem is that the teflon guide up front closest to the door hinge wore down, it didn't make any kind of warning scrapes or anything though, the rivet on the side closes to the hinge had a tiny point on it and it cut through the drum all the way around! no kidding. sliced it like a can opener. I replaced the the drum and also used the whole font mount of the used Atlantis seals and all, even the guides. this machine would probably last forever if the had put rollers in front like the ones in back, a little wider belt and pulley would not have hurt either, and if the tension on the front was the problem, they could have put the front roller wheels on spring tension brackets so that he belt would have something to work on, I am betting the motor would have a much easier time rolling that drum on front and back rollers than it does on those teflon Guides. That just gave me an idea. LOL I could test the theory by making what I just said and mounting them in the remains of the Atlantis. I could always get more parts from my community because Maytag is given away all the time for scrap. I think its pretty funny t hey made zero improvements in over 16 years between these tow models at least. Id like to get a hold of a few more and go through them to see what is up with that.

Lol Dr

You're welcome! If you would like to give us a review, here is our link: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review Have a great day!

@@repairclinic thank you

Could you tell me , your maytag model number ? thanks

You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

Wow, thanks!

erik zobler so drill the clip out to fit the new pliers

Harbor freight has an awesome snap ring plier set with removable nipples!

Looks like they are using external snap ring pliers.

One thing I should mention is that this dryer is horrendous at drying large sheets/blankets. It turns everything into a tight "burrito" that is wet in the middle and dry outside. I have to take out and restart a king size blanket at least 10 times per cycle, as quickly as 30 seconds after restarting, to keep it from happening. The burritoed blanket is very heavy and falls again and again. I know this can't be good for the drum. I've used up to 8 dryer balls at once to no avail.

Coloradorit Hi, you'll find helpful troubleshooting and repair help on our website: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp. Be sure to enter your dryer's model number for model-specific information.

Actually the manufacturer recommends no oil because it will attract lint and cause premature failure of the roller. Thanks for commenting!

There should be a small access panel in the back you can remove, so you can get the belt back on easier. You can do it from the front but yes, you would have to do it "blind" and it is not as simple.

Actually, I think the washer in the video does have a rear access panel. Not all do. Good video for that particular model and those of similar design..

How to repair

Mine does that too its just the motor jumping its perfectly normal. the motor torques and the belt tensioner gives a little slack and it goes boom but it is supposed to.

The bearings are sealed but after 10-15 years of service the fine dust /lint makes its way into the bearings. I think adding any oil or grease would draw the particles like a magnet. I think better to just repalce them

Some bearings are not lubricated where the dust and dirt will adhere to the lubricant and cause failure. In these cases the bearing sleeve is usually imbedded with a lubricant to keep it turning freely.

There are self lubricating bearings. Usually they work by one of two methods. The first is smearing where there is graphite or some other lubricant like molybdenum disulfide lubricant powder incorporated with the base material, usually a polymer, which is worked free by the action and smeared across the bearing surface lubricating the action. The material Rulon is probably the best known of these. The second is usually referred to as a debris systems, where the material that breaks free from the wear of the action has an almost spherical shape which forms a particulate bed to act as tiny ball bearings lubricating the action, this is the case with lead bronze and several other common bearing materials. It would seems like a system of this type would be very high wear but it can take months even years of constant operation for even a thousandth of an inch to be eroded from the bearing surface in such systems, and while they are less effective than smear systems they are even usable with heavy load applications and aren't effected to the same degree as traditionally lubricated bearings by external debris like dust and small metal filings.

Ok I did this replaced mine with 2 new rollers the guy I bought the parts from told me to clean up the shaft with emry cloth then install the new rollers I did not get any other washers or anything in the bags with the rollers in them please help still makes noise.

+kimmy We sell parts and do not service equipment so cannot say. You can call a local service company and ask for a ballpark price to replace part number 12001541.

***** how much is the part .. just saying cause I had this done last week to my dryer and it was $145 for the part and for install . does that seem like a rip off ?

+kimmy The part costs $16.95 when ordered with us. We sell parts and provide ho to videos to held people avoid expensive repairs.

kimmy very expensive repair unless your dryer less than 5yrs old. there's mom & pop dryers Business that sell nice dryers for that price plus they give you a refund if you bring in the old one. Deac.Louis Rochester N.Y..

All the service guys that come out will charge you a minimum of 50.00 just to trouble shoot the problem. Then they up the price of the part byat least 1/3 and when you see the total bill at around 100-150.00 they will tell you that your better off to buy a new one and if you do decide to buy new you realize after he leaves that you just paid him 50.00 just to come out and say hi. Most guys dont want to bother fix it

Nice mouth. Do you kiss your mom with that mouth? Enjoy having the service man take you to the bank? Good luck

Gary Bowen Gary- Per the included instructions, the wave washer is to be discarded and replaced with the new nonmetallic washer included with the kit. New design.

Flat side does go against the drum.

We don't know either.