guards are for sissies.

@@JeepMurphy guards are for smart people

@@markme4 eyes roll..............

shut up

I’ve had mine on for years. Recently took it off , but only because these blades won’t mangle your hand like a metal blade. That being said I never considered the blade breaking apart I may need to consider putting it back on.

That’s not completely true, I’m a licensed plumber and is not even a code here in fl

That's not always true. I did a couple of American Standard toilet installations and quickly found that with the flange installed on the tile the toilet was actually a bit too high off the floor and needed to be shimmed up quite a bit all around to get it to not rock. I recently pulled one of those toilets and installed a new tile floor over the existing floor, and left the flange as is. The toilet now sits perfectly seals just fine.

I had this concern and had a pal tell me to just put a second wax ring on and not to worry about the height that the tile adds; is that a good idea?

Just get a “better than wax” kit and you don’t have to worry about height as it will set you up for any height.

@@craigsmith8320you can buy wax less gaskets, thick wax rings or stack wax rings. It’s all fair game.

@Bryan Bolden not exactly sure what you're trying to say.... the flange of the toilet should be installed ON TOP of the tile, you never cut the tile to go at the same level as the flange... really not sure what you're trying to say but what I've explained is in every building code that exists, it's in all the literature that comes with every single single toilet you purchase. So, without having fully understood what you're trying to explain, I'll just leave it there.

@Bryan Bolden I'm a contractor, carpentry, but mainly plumbing and heating... when you're doing a job, the tile guy never thinks about the plumbing the way a plumber does, to do it properly, you need a plumber to REMOVE the toilet flange completely so that the tiles can be redone properly and only THEN does the plumber come back and install a flange. Every single time a tile guy who doesn't think twice about the plumbing comes, removes the toilet (because it's isn't rocket science) and then tiles, and then reinstalls it... every single time a plumber comes back 6 months later "my toilet is leaking... why?" because the toilet flange is not sitting high enough, the plumbing job was so tiny, the tile guy or handyman took it upon himself. When I worked for insurances, this was #1 problem for water damage. A simple retrofit/revamp renovation that turns into water damage in the future. And even now, I get a call at least once a week about a leaking toilet... THIS is the issue. I tell all my tile guys and other contractors to be mindful of this because I've dealt with it and continue to deal with it on a weekly basis!

​@Bryan Bolden Michael Dubois is trying to say that the bottom of the flange (the lip) should be the same height has the bottom of the toilet IE the same height as your finish floor that the toilet rests on. This is to ensure a 360 degree solid seal against gas (and water) with a common wax ring. Rarely is that the case unless you plumber comes back through. It most definitely isn't the tile guys job. But the thing here is that there are flange extension kits and many different toilet sealers beyond a wax ring. Some of those various kits have extra pieces to add spacing just for recessed flanges. This issue might have been more true 20-30 years ago but this particular problem has come a long ways with easier solutions than resetting a flange. In new construction the plumber is supposed to know what the finished floor height is, set it and move on. The tile guy has little to do with drains. For the cheap man jumbo wax rings are a thing now days, they are much taller to accommodate for these common sorts of errors. Mike is right, this is super common in old houses, but it has been out thought a dozen different ways. Still it does need recognized if you are going to seat a toilet. Usually not the tile guy's thing.

Looked on the comments to say exactly this

I’m a plumber too. A properly installed Closet flange extension is perfectly adequate.

Go girl hard on the knees 4SURE lol

As a plumber, what we appreciate is that there is side to side support for the base of the toilet. The front and back could have large gap since it won't interfere with our installation. However, fill it so when the wax fails, the void doesn't fill up with water and get under the tiles.

I use regular diamond blades and never cut a circle like he did. I just use the grinder and trace out the circle with the blade more perpendicular to the tile. Then cut through in a couple spots, flip the tile, and finish the circle on the backside. Juist as quick as the octagon which i also do depending on mood.

If you're using spacers to raise the flange to code, then a plumber has come behind you to fix the leak you caused by using a spacer.

@@richardordonez8331 Ever heard of silicone between the spacer and flange? What else you got genius?

They'll split finicky tiles a lot easier than circles will. If it's an easy tile to grind than go ahead, but if it's a tile that likes to split, hexagon holes suck.

@@Laking86erYou are right about that I cut many tiles both ways and it seems to me that the really hard tiles tend to split when doing plunge cuts with a wet saw or using a Makita for toilet flange cuts. Just from the sound of the cut it seemed that the tile was a little soft. But on the other hand he said it was from Italy which from my experience is usually very hard tile.

Yes. That was an awesome idea I never thought to put those two together. By the way love that last bathroom you did. You just had to show off with them glow in the dark golf balls. Haha, LOL. Nice job, bro.

You could always use an old wet saw blade and just go a little wide on the pencil Mark.. Don't have to worry about the saw blade teeth getting in the way. But great idea nonetheless.

I keep an old redguard (1gallon) lid...it's slightly oversized but works well

Or..... Just buy a closet flange to keep in your tool box. Then angle your pencil away 1/8" when scribing around it. 👍👍👌

Keep the plastic ring the blade comes on. Little bigger then the blade but perfect for a template. Gives you a little wiggle room as well