I’ve made switchback modules with PCB relays before, but never thought of using a P-mosfet. Do you know of anywhere I could get some info on doing it?

That’s I’m looking for, need to the opposite, need my blinkers on the same brake bulb, can you help ? Any schematic?

i'd love a written tutorial via comment lol obviously its the same as the video but still lol

How do you use a P-mosfet to achieve the same thing as the video? 🤔 Do you have a schematic? Thanks!

Hey can you show me how you did it I like to dimm my drl when parking lights are on is pretty much what you did

Hello Ian, Do you have a drawing etc of the circuit you just described? Many thanks

You got it brother 👌

@@flyryde what i encountered in the past with the 1n4007 diodes is that they don't handle a lot of current going through i used a couple of them for a Bi-LED projector, in order to be able to flash my headlights on high beam even if the low beam is off, and the diode couldn't handle the LEDs and melted everytime, i even added more in parallel and still the same issue 🤔.

@@luigibutoi7238 For that exact purpose, use rectifier diodes like this: amzn.to/3pWN01X

@@flyryde thank you 🙏🙏 ill try that one on my next project. Keep up the good work 👏

I figured it out. When I added the Fenix Cannon Hideaway LEDs as the front turn signals on my Trailblazer, I needed a way to have them function as both turn signals and running lights. I bought a set of converters that did this, but they are no longer available; I think this setup may work to do that instead.

Your input power should be the stock DRL input. This setup doesn’t need a constant power source.

Follow the directions here but add an additional diode. Cathodes should be facing away from each other and you’ll need to solder the blinker input to the anodes of the diodes. The addition diodes cathode needs to then be connected to the wire on the middle pin. The relay will work the same cutting off the constant power of the light but the additional diode will send the signal to the now dormant wire.

One relay for the driver side and another relay for the passenger side.

Follow the directions here but add an additional diode. Cathodes should be facing away from each other and you’ll need to solder the blinker input to the anodes of the diodes. The addition diodes cathode needs to then be connected to the wire on the middle pin. The relay will work the same cutting off the constant power of the light but the additional diode will send the signal to the now dormant wire.

Del capacitor, más microfaradios, más segundos tarda.

If you used the pin I removed, you'd just have to do so knowing that whatever it powers, will not blink, it'll just stay solid. BMW has something like this for a "turning light" that only comes on when you turning, and turns off after. If you're turning left for example, a little lamp will turn on and throw light out to the left side of the car so you can see better in the direction you're turning, since the headlights aren't already pointed that direction. The switchback module could turn on something like that, which will only ever be on during turn signals, but again, its not flashing like the turn signal, its just staying on consistently, then turns off when the signal stops. Make sense? Sounds like another good video idea :)

Already made one and tested working. Haven't instilled it yet just waiting for plug and play connectors. Just add two diodes, one from marker and one from blinker.

If the lights you’re talking about only have one input, use two rectifier diodes on the circuit. One directing power to the relay/capacitor and one facing toward the lights. Tap the blinker input between the diodes and the running light past both diodes closer to the lights, away from the relay. This will prevent the running lights power from flowing back and triggering the relay while still allowing the relay to work as designed.

Yes, you can even do it switchback. But you have to wire it correctly

Yup, I used to do that all the time actually. 2 more diodes needed, one for each wire as you said 👌

Just use a switch relay or normally closed/open relay

4700uF 25V

Sounds like there is no delay before red turns back on

Are you done with your project and did it last long? Made the module already and made it work by adding two diodes, one from the pulsing and one from the steady. Haven't installed it yet on the car since I'm still waiting for some connectors for it to be plug and play.

I’m trying to get amber and white rock lights and make them swotchback

Yes you can use 2 strips, but you have to wire it correctly. You can do it on a 5 pin relay. Watch on KZfaq how to use the 5 pin

Use a 5 pin relay. 30 to the turn signal constant source (ie parking light +) 85 ground. 86 to the flash relay output. 78a to turn signal + and 78 is not used. Will need one relay wired to each light.

It is possible, as long you know how to wire it correctly

You need to have a trigger input from your flasher loom

Lol he literally says it in the Video 🤣

that would just make the white lights come one when the amber turns off, you don't want that, you want white to stay off when the amber blinks

I see other comments about that also. P-Mosfet sounds like the solution for reducing relay clicking sounds.

@@nzhome101 also the delay of the white light comming on is created with the capacitor, bigger capacitor, bigger delay I believe

Cut the highbeam / DRL 12+ send the vehicle side to 86, and the bulbs side to 87, with power and ground to 30/85 DRL won’t turn on, but highbeam will still turn on.

@@flyryde Thanks! Is there a way to do this without losing the DRL?

@@joshuacharlesgrey8935 what does “trying to setup a switchback” mean?

@@flyryde I want the high beam to still work in the same location, and that bulb turns off when the turn signal is on.

I'm pretty sure that, if the light turns off by default on the factory setup, it's being done to make the turn signal visible. I've seen this on some cars with LED headlights that have the amber turn signal mounted very close to the headlights.