Very True- Do not Remove the CAS, just unplug it. I realize my timing may be off since I did this, I just got the tools to check it recently. It may explain why my idle is so high.

Well that was lucky

That was extremely lucky. The 300zx has an interference engine, losing the timing belt at 6k should have bent some valves. But if it's all running good now, I'm glad I could help!

+SANYUR water pump is not run by timing belt

@@gnarkill32 True, but its not a bad idea to do the timing belt when you're in there, especially if you don't know when it was last done.

I must have installed 40,000 freeze plugs also. Set the plug on a drift and brush on a gooey sealant, set with a hammer. Detroit Diesel 76-82

It was a manual that had the procedure for many cars of many brands, I think the brand was AutoData? I'm not sure but it's not as useful as you think. It definitely does not have wiring diagrams or anything else besides the timing belt procedure. Nissan did produce service manuals, and while those are hard to come by in physical form, you can usually find people distributing PDF copies on the forums.

Resourceful!

Hi, I show the book in the 3rd part. It's just an Autodata timing belts book.

My 94' has been exceptional during my 80k ownership. Doing belt now at 98k. NA,manual,nice upgrades,adult owned,for sale.

Sorry I'm late with this. The 300ZX NA is a very reliable, or should I say, very dependable car. I say dependable because things do break, and when they break, they are hard to fix, and can be costly - but RARELY does anything break that prevents you from driving. You can take it anywhere an be reasonably certain you are going to get home. I've only ever had to tow it because of alternator failure (my fault for running an underdrive pulley), fan belt failure (my fault because I heard the squealing and didn't fix it), and clutch failure (not my fault). It's kind of like an old Toyota, not in the ease of fixing it (very much not), but in that it just refuses to quit. It can be half broken and still drive.

Hi, I show the book in the 3rd part. It's just an Autodata timing belts book.

Yes, it can, but in my case it didn't move much, so no further adjustment was needed. The manual shows what it looks like when it's wrong, and it's obvious- either the two bits of metal are touching, I.E. too tight, or way too wide. If the two bits of metal are nearly parallel, you're all good. It moved so little that I didn't have to do any more adjustment.

if so, it never caused a problem.

Remove starter motor, stick flathead screwdriver in flywheel.

Actually, we are both right, Matt. They are indeed welch/core plugs and are important in the casting of the block, but if they served no other purpose, they could be tack welded the covers in place to prevent them from ever popping out. They do double-duty as configured, minimizing the risk of cold temperatures on the engine (when parked)

Yep, still have her. I've owned an '85 RX-7, which I sold, and a golf, which I sold, and a manual lexus is300, which is my daily now, but I still have the Z. I had to do the timing belt again about 20k miles after this video because I didn't replace the idler pulley, and the idler pulley went bad. Got the cam seals at the same time. New toy is a 1984 BMW 533i.

Hi, I show the book in the 3rd part. It's just an Autodata timing belts book.

Did you see all 3 parts?