back when i was doing circle track i used a 6 al msd with a switch to the purple or blue mopar ignition (i dont remember the color). never had to use it but tested it before every race. I just gave the box to lammy to use on his gasser but repo-man gave a much better one. by the way moparnut62 did you hear what jacob said when he pointed at the camera HEHE

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Jacob is a smart boy! He's growing up right!.....and come on John you don't need that 440 intake manifold sell it to me...lol 😁

hehe nope it goes on my challenger. it one like nicks, its a U code 4sp R?T. im putting on that.

Thats true lol ....thats funny

Right on looking forward to checking that hotrod out someday!

Thank you Angel

There are no exact timing spec that we use. there are simple test that we use to find the exact timing and that will be in a future vid, Factory spec are smog related and por gas related so i would never use those.

Yes I would. I myself am more of a purist but there is no denying that HEI is a great upgrade for points. I love how simple and easy to work on HEI is weather it be tune up or repair or modification for the street or track or even mileage performance. !

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 You had me at "simple and easy." I have my points distributor out and a electronic distributor with vacuum advance in its place. I found a GM e-coil with the heat sink plate in the junk yard the other day for $11. I ordered a new 4 pin module since you cannot use the module on it. I think all I will need now is a correct coil wire and a little bit of wiring it up and fingers crossed. Have you ever done the conversion from points to electronic before? I am working on a '63 Dart with a Slant 6.

i have converted about 10 using the Chrysler kit. and several using a HEI module. Now instead of the kit i hit up the yards and pull distributor and wire them myself. Sounds to me like your getting that handle!!!

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Yes. I am getting it close to completion. I think it will be a very good upgrade.

Hey Flinch just want to say thanks for watching and appreciate your input, every body has there way about why and what and so on. I see things differently here, since most of what I do is racing I can't take the chance of miss fire or loss of power so if I'm using points I set a limit like so many passes or miles things like that. I feel the same about oil changes or plugs, I set a distance. Also since some of my stuff is grocery getter that my wife uses on occasion and it's really tuned for milage I put a time limit on them for that reason. Even with electronic over points all the components in the ignition system there is a mileage or time limit. So the point here is if you wait for a miss fire your to late. Also might add that even though points are cheap on my electronic stuff I never replace anything and never set anything. No dwell set (that should be checked a few times in the life of the points) never set timing but every 100000 miles just to access timing chain life. Again I'm not knocking the way you do yours just having a conversation on how and why I do mine. Thanks again for your input.👍

Congratulations on your luck. Yes electronic can be triggered by points and this takes care of the burn factor on the points as well as resistance. But this does not fix distributor run out and if your lucky thats not a problem but for most who working in the high performance world this is a big disadvantage. Using points to trigger your module is not any more reliable then mag pick up or simular cause the dist part of electronic ignition is the most reliable part. Also said and done never touch a dist again with electronic accept to adjust timing or if something mechanical goes wrong. The dist in my 68 RR has been installed now for 30 years and never been touched. If your working the high RPM side of the street you better be all over points for resistance and float and this would be every race or expect trouble and you better now what your doing. 1 more point and this is just piling on or a dumb argument from me, when I pull the old John deere or any old car with point thats been sitting for 10 20 30 years they never start unless I file the points. On any electronic i crank them and they spark every time. After all that yes triggering electronic with points is a upgrade for points.

Good question!

I get what you're saying about the factory look. The only vehicle I can think of that used a internal ballast was volkswagen air cooled. They took a relatively low amperage to crank over leaving alot of voltage for the coil during cranking. On almost all American vehicles the amp draw during cranking is way higher. Compromising spark during cranking. This is why ford GM and chrysler have a cranking bypass circuit to give a full 12v to the coil and giving a hot spark during cranking and then back to ballast after start. Slants and 318s don't gobble up a ton of power during cranking but if your battery is week maybe you left your lights on or just a bad battery. This bypass system will save the day. And if its 4406pack 340 of hemi forsure you will have the ignition you need. Compression takes more amperage and compression needs more voltage at the plug to jump the gap. If you use a internal ballast you will eliminate the bypass circuit.

As far as this theory about runner length. I've seen a few vids about this and I'm not going to by into it. All the runners pull from the same plenum that plenum has the same mix throughout there all at the same rich lean. The outside cylinders will pound out more torque at a lower rpm then the middle so at wide open throttle there maybe some differential between combustion Temps at different rpms but not at a crews or simple acceleration. These different plug colors on the vid i seen are more then likely caused by compression differential or distributor run out or just a horrible engine rebuild. But certainly not caused by runner length. There are a ton of ways of pulling power out of a slant more because there is so much to do. The factory never intended for engine to become a major power house they were intended awesome flexibility longevity and good power compared to the competition. There is no doubt they are a great piece for outstanding power for there size but that is because much of what makes a engine last and economy also build performance. I think the vid i saw about fuel distribution on a slant was a guy trying to talk over people's heads and have everybody say wow that guy is amazingly smart. The hole point im making is this plug thing is a waste of time till you get all other things maxed out. 7.5 to 8.5 compression is not going cause a problem with plug heat till you running to lean or overheating the hell out of you engine.

I never purchased points at tractor supply but that sounds like good advice. I also like HEI 1 wire set up. Its simple and easy to tune. Its more about the power level your working with and more RPM related. GM HEI has hi power limitations, you can put a improved coil in and a improved module for better ignition but If you start to get serious its limited. but its also about using mopar on a mopar and ford on a ford too. If you go with mopar the modules are better and MSD used a mopar style pickup proving there quality and really to go to a mopar setup its only 2 wires . Power source to the coil and to the module the 2 wires to the pickup are part of the harness already (unless your staring from scratch) same with tach lead and with this ignition you can make serious improvements. if you use HEI my advice is to make sure you use a larger gauge wire for your 12v source and make sure you igntion switch can handle the load. I think the HEI is good for most applications so definitely use them and certainly way better then points ignition.

I would check the coil. The coil is what puts the load across the points. The ballast and condenser do affect the load also but the coil is the direct load on the points. Good luck Riccardo

There should be very little side to side movement. Setting it at 10 though is not a big deal. I notice that Setting it as narrow as possible is a advantage especially if you using a old slow original starter. But whenever you check your gap put vacuum on the advance dash pot because this will narrow the gap and if you have run-out the reluctor can hit the pickup.

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Wow! Setting w/ vacuum on good idea 👍 Thank you for even reading my question. 🙂

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Do u have any merchandise?

I wish I had a omni Howard someday after the lock down and the money starts to flow again im going to look for one. I am going to be looking for a rampage also. If its ok I'm going to quote you on my diagnostic vid in the future if I may because of your temp fix and experience.

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 sure...that's fine....One question Tall John; when my dad was gonna sell the Omni, we needed to remove the right rear wheel for some reason, but it wouldn't come off. We loosened the lug nuts to almost falling off and drove over some really bumpy dirt roads. Nothing. Tried hitting the rim, using wood blocks. Nope. Used rust buster where the rim met the hub, and lug nut studs....Nope...How could we have gotten it off with minimal tools???

i would try heat map gas torch

@@talljohnsfunshop2722 we didn't have those...I can't help but wonder how the next owners dealt with it..He DID tell them about it..

@@howardkoster4026 would be interesting to know

yes there will be. some video is done already with the test drive . but the engine is coming out and will be on the same vid and that is happening soon

Those were from ignition swaps so no website.

john rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr what up

That's true ford nut I found points and condenser for 12 dollars on line and a ignition module for 22 dollars

What cool car. I have copied vw in the sense that I put a bracket on the distributor that I could loosen to change timing instead of the traditional were you loosen the hold down. This way I had a spare that was timed and ready to go. Like a Volkswagen on a mopar the distributor is drive by a t shaft but Volkswagen did 1 better and offset it so it only went one way. Very cool stuff.

my spare has a hold down on it set for plug and play points and all@@talljohnsfunshop2722

Lol

lol that funny there