Best of the internet right here folks. This guy presented more solutions in 10 minutes than most politicians do in 4 years.

Absolutely the best reference on youtube about frozen nuts. I have watched several longer ones on just one technique.

After watching 15 of these videos you are the only one who actually MENTIONS using cold. I always like to use hot / cold together.

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. outstanding. The only one that you didn't mention was the smoke wrench. Oxy acetylene torch. That as my dad used to say "is for when you are done talkin"

Awesome tips. Opened up the mind to a different way of looking at problems -- Improve the grip, increase the leverage/torque. This line of thinking can be applied to other problems too.

I notice these videos always use easy access bolts as examples, but the most common reason for stuck and stripped bolts is that they're in hard to access places, which makes them hard to get a wrench around, which is what caused the fiasco in the 1st place.

I really didn't want to change the inner tie rod, but the adjustment nut was frozen on with rust from the 2000 Eldorado being in Wisconsin most of its life. With tips from this video, I soaked the nut in PB Blaster overnight then tried again. Still couldn't get the nut to move (Wenches, high torque impact driver, etc.). Then I tried heating the nut with a BernzOmatic followed with a douse in very cold water. Instead of trying to loosen, I instead tightened to try to break the nut free, and it did break pretty easily. Thanks Error Code Guy, I would never have thought of doing this!

Just started doing hvac and rusty bolts and shafts are the bane of my existence 😤

Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful !! I learned lots !!! Thanks mate . 👊🏼 🔥

One of the best of the entire internet. Thank you!!!

Best video out there.Was always lookin for one that could give a preventative tip and only yours explained about antiseize. Greetings from England🇬🇧

Great video with various techniques I didn't know about. Thank you

Great info for the DIY guy or gal that gets into a bind with rusted or siezed nuts. I have used mose of these in the past with varied effectiveness. Also used impact hammer with shake and brake tool to help loosen the rust

Thanks for the tips. I have just had a fight with a small outboard. I used most of your ideas but the combination of ferrous metals mixing with alloys created a lot of galvanic corrosion. In the end I had to drill it it off. I like the nut splitting idea. The problem with small outboards the very small constricted space available for tools

Excellent info right here! Got those bolts out with the pipe wrench method + a torch, thank you, you’re a life saver!

love it - thank you! I'm going to use some of these tips to try and remove some rusted bolts on an old compound miter saw someone gave me.

Sir, you have my sincere thanks! Great information, great video!

Like this a lot. An old mechanic friend of mine used to say "liquid steel can't hold torque".....so if it sTHAT bad, just heat it up until it flows away...🙂

Great tips. I pretty much go to the heating the female and adding wax from a candle as a time saver. Works for threaded plumbing joints, manifolds etc...sometimes on very large marine applications I have to use oxy acetylene to get the parts hot enough to suck the wax in but this is king!

Thank you, So much!!! I have an alternator I am trying to replace. The tension belt adjuster is a monster rusted. I am certain one of these techniques will work.

Wow 😮 Paraffin wax and auto ‘box oil are genius. Thanks so much. 🙏 I sometimes use a small rag, wrapped around the nut and then soak the rag with WD40 (as well as the nut prior to wrapping) and then leave for an hour. I then remove the rag, heat with a torch and try again. Sometimes it works and sometimes I cry 😭

Great solutions for headaches. Seems like each one will work. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the cool techniques!

Very informative video. All in one video on rusted item removal. Thank you sir.

Thank you for your video. It saved us on a motorcycle build. Thank you

Very helpful and interesting techniques indeed! 👍Thank you sir 🙏

Very great job and thanks for sharing with us

Great Vajayo! only two additional tricks I know that you did not include welding a bolt onto a stripped head ( typically an oil pan drain plug) the other trick is use an air chisel on the end of the tool ( best if it is used on cheater pipe and not the tool itself) to hammer off the bolt. The important point that may have been missed here is that it seems like the hitting, tapping and shock ( thermal and mechanical) is the secret and use all the different options prior to stripping the nut or bolt.

Awesome tips!! Thanks a lot!!

SPOT ON MATE!! thank you!!!

Great video thanks. I have used these techniques with good success. I find that rust check is an excellent penetrating oil especially if you can let it sit over night. If possible you can put rusted assemblies into warm vinegar for a couple of days to remove rust, the hotter the better. I have done that with rust seized alternators and have gotten them working without any disassembly.

Thank you so much dude. This is video is the most complete tutorial for removing stuck bolt i ever seen. So many methods. I succeeded with using pipe wrench.

Excellent information Sir

Thanks for your effort friend.

God bless you! i tried the heat up and cold water ,, it works perfectly

Thanks Hank Hill, this is very helpful!

Best ways of removing nuts, Verymuch interesting, many many thanks.

Awesome!! Thanks for sharing these tips to us. Usualy, i used to grab an hammer an hit the spanner, to allow the loosen for the bolt itself. I'm curius to use the ATF+acetone combo. If the problem is the rust, i've listened from a mechanic that he used to tight and the loose the bolt, few degrees, just to broke that the rust in it.

An excellent video. Thank you.

I switched up from.the wrench to other tools and that did it brother thanks so much 🙏 😊

Great video, thanks

excellent and comprehensive

Very good thank you. Also you can sometimes knock on a smaller size socket with a hammer and a scrap piece of ally or a mandrel on to a rounded nut. eg - 3/8ths can be forced on to a 10mm nut. Heat is best if you are not going to damage any surrounding area. If you are removing glow plugs on a diesel run the engine to got them hot first, works for me every time.

Great video. Thank you.

I worked at an aircraft engine plant. Outer rings and nuts would be heated and dry ice (-109.3 F) would be placed against the bolt or inner surface. I know it might not be practical but it demonstrates how expansion and contraction can really loosen married items of metal.

EXCELLENT VIDEO, THE BEST!!!

Very very good tips...

the best way is heating up the nut , so it expands cracking the rust hold , and then dousing it thoroughly with PB blaster allowing it to work it's way down into the threads !

This was awesome!

Awesome video!

interesting re the Acetone/ATF mix.....i'll try that on my winter project !

. That was a great lesson on really useful experience.

Super good information

Thank you sir your video really gave me knowledge.

Excellent

Probably best video on subject. ✌From England ♑

great video, thank you

good video I learned a lot thank you, PATRICK

Thanks for the great video and all the information

Filing it down to the next size... My God how come I never think of such good yet obvious ideas

Thank you only left if is a touch, got all the possibilities !

ATF + acetone. I didn't knew that one. Thank you.

Great video, can't thank you enough!

Very interesting.

This is great. I have a snapped off bolt head that is making me question all reality. Ran out of 4 letter words yesterday.

gentleman , all the trics you explained are true but it is certainly useful under different situation i.e., position of bolts etc. a solution of sulfuric acid h2so4 is quite helpful to remove old rust that I have experienced subject to precautions.

Candle wax is bloody good. It's like solid freeing oil which doesn't evaporate in a cloud of vapour if you've been heating the job. WD40 and GT85 or TF2 are crap. I was brought up before they were mainstream and I used Plus Gas, Holts Rustola, or Duckhams Duck Oil. Plus Gas is really good. It creeps and gets everywhere. It's like slightly oilier paraffin ( kerosene ). Even paraffin/kerosene on its own creeps well but doesn't lubricate so good.

great video

Great vids man. Now I got so many options to ruin my bolts LMFAO. Cheers

8:35 Brilliant. I have never seen that technique before.

Thanks Bud I subbed - great video post and thumbs up!

Excellencies ideas 👌👍

awesome ! thank you

Am binge watching your channel after finding the vid on fuel problems. What an Aladdins Cave of ideas. Never seen the paraffin wax trick before.

great ideas...thanks

When I used a Chester bar it became part of the 3/8 in Ratchet I was using at the time and is now the extension tool of choice

Loved this..thanks man

Great information ! My problem is lug nuts on a car, much harder to get to and a major pain in the _ _ _.

Brilliant‼️

I got my husband a fur-lined jockstrap for frozen nuts.

Men nice video,And I prefer the last way.

The blowtorch with the cold water works wonders

I'm not a fan of the heating up red hot then dousing with water technique. Unless you like broken bolts and studs. Awesome video thought. A lot of great ideas to get off those stubborn fasteners. Cheers.

My classic c-10 has had the current bumper for 30-40 years. Square holes in chrome bumper will round out easy

Hi Error, I am interested using method Number #5. I need to remove these rusted bolts on the exhaust under the car. Thank youtube for subtitles, I didn't know the heck you said and thought it was Kerosone lol. I am not familiar with Parrafin but I'm gonna look it up and hopefully I can buy one. I think I may need some help. I am doing a home job on my Mitsubishi Triton 4WD, doing it myself. I got the car on the stand, etc, so far so good. If I need to remove the rusted bolt on the exhaust which has 3x bolts a set at point A, B, C, D making it 12x bolts all up I think. One of the bolt set is elevated from a 45degree, a little tricky but can use the breaker and correct socket size to get to it. However, it is on a 45degree angle how would I use the Parrafin or is it better to use heat instead? In your video you have the nut and bolt on a flat surface but I need to remove it as if it is upside down? Hope that makes sense. Would really appreciate the good advice.

Anti-Seize is a godsend when you live in the rust belt! When I was younger, I would buy a car and completely take apart all the stuff underneath and reassemble with Anti-Seize to prevent issues down the road. It has always beat me why auto manufacturers don’t put this stuff liberally on every fastener when new. I’d gladly pay more just to have that peace of mind!

yes sir, good simple idea's core of most american minds thanks bud.

This helps out big time

Thanks

Good video.

Men it's a lot of tip thanks

Thank you so much for your advice. It’s been so helpful but the one problem I’m having is getting brake lines loose without tearing the you know the fitting up or getting it off in one piece and I do the things you talk about with the bolt, but is there any different procedure for brake lines on old cars?

Glad to see wd40 not used,it's a jack of all trades master of none. Preparation is very important,prior to any torque being applied. .remove all rust and debris from exposed threads. .Shock the nut on the flats with a drift .Best penatrating oil in the UK Is plus gas .Be patient,use good quality tools .Splitting a nut with a chisel is also effective,even just half way thru can take the bite of the nut. .A tap bolt,or cheese head can be eased by hitting the side of the head,this will release the bite under the head. .Be patient take your time,worry the nut,a term used by a fitter who taught me when I was an apprentice (he had served on a destroyer in WW2!) .If a lot of thread is exposed run a die nut down to clean up thread,before removing the nut. .A large diameter nut can be washed of with a burning gun,not in my skill set but have seen in done several times! .I once took 12hrs to remove a 2 inch BSF nut on a overhead crane! 12 inches of exposed thread,the blue print for the crane was dated 1890! .Another tip is to use a hand saw to slice down as close to the thread as possible and thru the nut,this is usually enough to take the tension out of the nut,then use a sthilson to remove. .Be patient if you get stressed,go and have a coffee/tea then return! .When you fit the new nut,apply anti seize,I have tin in my toolbox with an old toothbrush to apply it. .I worked in chemical plant for a couple of years,it was site policy that every new nut/bolt had anti seize applied (apart from some that had to be dry torqued) It was a fab place to work,everything came apart so easily! Stainless steel nuts on stainless thread can pick up when removing,very important to apply anti seize on stainless threads. It's good policy to try to tighten a nut slightly before removal this can sometimes break the bite. When fitting new nuts and bolts,use correct lenth,one/two exposed threads is the best standard. This reduces chance of exposed threads rusting,and causing problems when removal is needed. .I'm 62 and been working as a Mechanical Fitter since 1977,so seen quite a few siezed nuts/bolts over the years.

Very good video

thanx i was trying to undo two parts of a little dremel-tool type thing. number 8 did it. i heated the thing up, then dipped it in icey cold water, didn't work. did it three more times, worked like a charm although i had tried everything before. now i just need to figure out how to prevent this from happening again. i don't know if you can get this anti-seeze thing in my country but maybe you can get something similar

Absolutely amazing. You are a god amongst men. Thank you so much sir.

You’re the best

Thanks much. Do you need to clean that rubber ( or plastic ) hose that the Acetone/AT fluid came out of ? If so, what ? Thanks.

I love this video. 100%

Nice I like it