Right, like seven minutes too long actually.

7MINUTES IS SUUUPER LENGHTY

Are u sure yr a toolmaker, coz IF u are surely this is old abc knowledge.

@@cmx4eva YES I Certainly am a toolmaker not a red neck mechanic and you learn different skills . So here is a test for you . Try to figure out how do you cut a left hand thread into a 10mm [3/8''] thick piece of metal using a R.H. tap . And yes it can be done I was shown by a older Russian toolmaker .

​@@cmx4eva Also ABC knowledge is that tool makers deal with almost no rust. Certainly not the kind you find under a salty road car.

​@@kevinklei3005 I am curious... how?

Me 75 , Amateur in Mechanics , I too learned something new from him……

Agree, that's the old way. 👍

Angle grinder to the nut and done. You're not wanting to save that hardware anyway.

​@@dickJohnsonpeter Agreed. If you can't afford to replace rust-damaged hardware, you're not charging your customers enough.

@@networkedperson Well yes, if it's that far gone it isn't any use anymore.

today Nobody does this way , cut the old bolt then heat up half bolt left on flange and punch it out , replace new bolt ,

That's what I'm encountering with my GF's '05 Mazda 6. It spent its first few years on the east coast (road salt!) and I'm having a HELL of a time getting the busted flex pipe off. I'm about ready to torch the turd.

​@@NordicDan I don't know how east coast mechanics deal with this crap. I could never imagine that much salt and crap on the underside of my car.

@@life_of_riley88 I guess annual underbody treatments with different options to spray oil on the undercarriage are available, but knowing how most people are with cars, I can bet not everyone would do it. I sure as hell would rough since I do my own work lol

​@@NordicDan a lot of times I will take a 12pt socket of one size smaller or a easy out socket with a long extension from under the vehicle and pound onto the nut with a hammer and then wrench them off. Usually the pounding on of the socket will break the rusted nut loose enough to help them spin off.

@@midnightrider1854 that usually works pretty good too. Whenever I can I make sure to hit the fasteners with Mouse Milk or Gibbs too before I try to break it loose. 90% of the time that's all it takes but then that other 10% is a busted knuckle extravaganza 😂

YES!!!! This right here is why I started this KZfaq channel! Awesome

Yes, and not to mention how much safer this method is !

quite a lot of waffle..

What do you mean no waffle, half the damned video is waffle!! I'm shouting at the screen GET ON WITH SHOWING US HOW instead of talking about it ffs!!!

removing this with a grinder is mutch vaster. And "the secret trick"i tought every mechanic nows it already

​@@richardd3663can you do better (?)

yes. Unfortunately, they are always limiting on a vehicle. Often, they don't fit around the backside of the nut.

Same here, had different sizes, that was also in the 80’s, always found the vibration caused other issues when using an air chisel, not to mention the noise pollution

I have yet to find a splitter that works.

I used a torch heated the nut and melted it without harming the threads. This will work but I didn't like the airhammer on exhaust

Yes, if you want to know about rust come to the UK.

Two good tricks for the price of one! 😂

To the point after a seven minute delay talking about nothing pertinent.

Great tip. First time I have seen this trick

so good of you to have had this idea and posted it here. you model how we all benefit via evolving

@spacefury65 I unfortunately used a grinding wheel, and a piece of metal fell down into my muffler. I have removed the muffler, can hear the metal piece move around as I flip the muffler in my hands 180 degrees. My question sir, is how do I get that piece of loose metal out of the muffler..? Thank you for your time and any advice is very much appreciated.

you never want to voluntarily drill an exhaust stud. They are super hardened over time from all the heat. It's a good way to kill drill bits. better option if the Nut won't come off is to cut the stud behind the nuts to remove the mating part. Then cut the remining stud flush with its own flange. then heat the flange around the stud till its glowing red and take a punch and punch the stud through. It will blow the treads out and leave a nice clean hole to pass a new bolt through. You'll be finished the whole job before you drill out 1 stud.

That's exactly what I did on my exhaust.

@@motormike43 great answer and as you have shown it's the last resort too,great learning video for those that dont use this method,those air tools are great at unsleaving exhaus tsections too that slide into each other,have a great day

​@@motormike43 00000000000⁰000

If they are that bad then I usually won't cut them. I will heat up the flange just like Mike said then put the easy out socket on the stud and put it in reverse and it will rip right out usually taking the threads with it. Then the nut and bolt passes right through. Same but with no pounding of the hot steel with an air hammer and possibly bending the ear of the flange preventing it from sealing.

You don’t see this often because a grinder or reciprocating saw is five times faster.

Yes agreed great footage and thanks for the content

Awesome. Make sure your chisel is razor sharp and re-sharpen as needed. SNap-on ones get replaced for free after they are ground so many times there's nothing left.

Die grinder with a cutoff wheel would have had it apart in a minute.

@@nitroustommy3668 There is not good access for that tool.

Furry to[to your Dr esse to you in in😮😮😮

It still has to be taken apart. What if the flange was good but the pipe was cut off with a sawzall? This was lightning fast. Sawzall would have taken more time.

That's what i was thinking

yes. I've found the nut crackers are always limiting. Very often on a vehicle there isn't enough clearance behind the nut to fit the tool even when the nut has decent access.

those without a $20 tool but a xxx$ air chisel and compressor..

It wont fit in limited access areas like this.

A nut splitter is much smaller than an air chisel.

Those nut splitters sound good but damn near never fit anywhere.

Use a heat inducter Makes it go faster yet

They never work

In the absence of an air chisel , heat and an undersized socket hammered on works great . Also an angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc and a new bolt works very quickly and easily .

Heat makes it faster and easier, less damage as well. They knew what they were doing. If this was a smaller fastener , he'd have broken it before he got it apart

also avoids rattling the shit out of the whole exhaust system. potentially damaging cats etc

That's exactly what I was thinking too

yeah exactly. easy when you have all the gear

I’m 41 but I’ll take it lol

I hope this saves you some time and makes you some money!

@@motormike43 great job young man!! excellent, noise sometimes it is part of a muffler job. 100--100 ty

North east everything looks like this. I miss the dealership days of only working on new cars lol

I am in New York Everything is rusted 🙄

Here in Minnesota, I've never wondered if the car is going to fall off the jack stands during a quake!

@@frankhoward7645 Good Point! After All the rains, all We Need are a few GOOD Earthquakes! There a Commin!!!

@@dporrasxtremeLS3 Mainly due to salt.

Hope it helps save time and aggravation

Thanks for the follow. I’m just getting started

Difference is I will hit my fingers at least 1 out of 25 swings which makes me flinch. I will never hit my fingers with the air hammer 😉

@@phazerboyNah. I don't think so. You grip the cold chisel the same way we see MotorMike gripping the air chisel. If the hammer hits the end of the chisel and then slips off, it will hit the side of your thumb and forefinger, causing your palm to go sliding down along the chisel. If you aren't wearing a glove you may scrape some skin, but you aren't likely to crush any bones. Not unless you completely miss the chisel and smack your hand. Even then, you are hitting the sides of your forefinger, which will bang into your long finger, which will bang into your finger, which will bang into your pinky, which may eventually bang into the clamp, but only if you are using a rather short cold chisel. You're not likely to draw any blood. That's what I think will happen. I don't remember ever injuring myself this way.

Probably far less than the road vibration it has to deal with on a daily basis.

@@hydewhyte4364 I don't think so, the acceleration ("g"-ees), which this jet chisel develops is hundreds of times higher than every-day vibrations. @mikefennema5561 made a good point about the damage a chisel can do to the convertor or Ox sensors.

That'd be my concern as well. I used an impact on my exhaust, and only a few miles later it plugged up hard and quick enough to blow a well maintained 2.2l

I thought he said they were replacing the converter?

Pretty sure that converter is toast anyway 😂

I’ve used a Horrible freight electric hammer drill before and I believe it would be powerful enough

That and all the sharp rust flakes in your hair and down the neck.

Been there done that. Mechanic here for over 30+yrs and that is one of the many hazards of my jobs that even safety glasses cannot 100 percent prevent. (But they really help reduce it). And when it happens and you instantly try to get it out the worst part is scratching the lens of your eye. Now for 2-3 days your eye is red and swollen and feels like it is full of sand. 😢😂

Turbo handwear is always super hardened from all the heat. never fun

I did that 50 years ago.

Yes High quality air gun, and a great high volume air compressor. Cheep tools are not reliable enough for the trasdes when you have to push the tool.

It’s a very valuable tool. I use mine often. You’ll see many more air hammer tips videos on my channel in the future.

or just a nut splitter from harbor freight.

Or spend Dan near $600 on a matco long barrel and call it done. Cheap tools have their place but a good air hammer is not something that I would cheap out on cause when you need it you really don’t want it to fail

this trick would not work on a bolt where it is seized into a bushing, such as control arms etc. still a good trick though

Yep, I thought the same thing. And a good SHARP chisel.

I don’t have an air chisel. A dremel tool with cut off disc works great too to cut nut in half.

If you don't have a compressor, use a hammer. It's just going to take a little bit longer.

Nut splitters suck and there's not room on a nut like that. As mentioned a plain chisel and a hammer does the same. I'm just not sure why you'd bother trying to save that stud either you can sawzall through the flange knock the stud out and replace with a bolt set

Harbor Freight carried a nice electric drill with a true hammer function for around $70. Useful tool for other projects as well.

or get a cheap cut off wheel for 20 bucks

Jesus said, If you do not have an air compressor sell your cloak and buy one.

What are you doing with the grinder?

@@motormike43 cut the nut off

I usually zip saw the nut/bolt off and install new hardware. I wouldn’t leave the rusted bolt on there. Good tip though

You can if you are careful cut through one side of the nut with a slitting disc

these flanges were good. Im sure a future video will include some bad flanges that ill have to replace.

25 years in the industry and I do this every single day. No Cats have ever been harmed. also in 25 years and as a shop owner I've probably replaced less than 10 cats ever from a bad cat code. Cats dont go bad. Unless they have a full meltdown from someone driving for weeks with a dead misfire. mutiple P0420 P0430 codes per week. Its always something else. Ill have videos on that soon

No. If you ever discover a cat that seemed to be damaged from doing this, it was already bad.

Then dodge every pothole.

I've been a tech for more than 30yrs professionally. And I have to agree. A catalytic converter takes an extremely hard and abusive life between heat and cool down cycles and rough roads like potholes and road vibrations. As long as you aren't hammering directly on the body of the cat or the mounting flange directly in front of behind the cat I don't see, in my opinion, where it would be damaged. And if it was, then it was probably already cracked and you just finished it off.

Replace all that rusty shit and put new cat new 😮😮😮