A case study in "buy right, cry once". I didn't even know how these worked to begin with so thank you for the enlightenment.

I've had the same experience with almost every tool I've ever bought from Harbor Freight. Everything kinda, sorta, almost works - but really needs some tweaking. Sometimes a fun challenge, mostly just a reminder of my own cheapness coming back to bite me.

I've been asking people for a long time what makes these work, and until now I've not acquired the answer. But there still seems to be a spring somewhere inside that brings the levers back to original position. Thank You, JD

Thanks for taking us for the ride

Another GREAT video - thank you! I used a friend's import shrinker / stretcher set and used that experience to purchase a set of Lancasters - very happy with the purchase. More importantly, your video will help other to repair / tune-up their imports!

You only need just enough Prussian Blue/Dykem etc on Part A to leave a mark on Part B. By using more than the minimum you make contact patches appear larger than they are, and run the risk of disguising low spots. In the application shown here it may not have mattered too much, but if you were trying to flatten precision mating surfaces (e.g. the ways on a lathe) it would be counterproductive.

I'm some kid who's just starting out 😅 But in all seriousness, love this type of content! Going beyond just throwing parts at the problem and delving into the actual sources of the issues, even if they're not possible or viable to fix.

I have absolutely no idea what shrinker/stretcher machines are but I know I'll never use one. Yet I'm watching this instead of sleeping because, you know, Throttle Stop Garage

I have a suggestion that doesn't require casehardening the tool again. Drill or mill out the holes from the frame that keep the pin in place from the tool that is slightly too short. Give the holes threading. Then make some bushings with a center hole that is slightly of center and that has the correct diameter for the pin, and give the bushings threading on the outside diameter so that it fits inside the newly threaded holes from the tool frame. If needed make a set screw so that you can lock the bushings in place. The of center holes from the bushings gives you the ability to adjust the tool ever so slightly and very accurately. That might improve things even more. That way it is possible to locate the pin a little closer to the correct position without the need to caseharden the tool again. It would also require some machining. But maybe that you have the tools to do that type of machining yourself, or maybe that a friend with a lathe can do it for you. Anyway, another great episode. Big thumbs up and I am looking forward to the next episode. 👍🙂

Paused at 4 minutes for this comment.. I like seeing your face when you are talking during the x1 speed. Yes other fabrications use only the hands but I, we, are used to see you!!

I have the Eastwood Shrinker Stretcher and I converted mine to foot operation and they work very well but I did have to tweak them

I just brought a shrinker/stretcher. Probably a relabeled import so will look how well it is based what I learned here. Thanks.

I thought we were heading for roller tip microadjustable contact surfaces... 😝. Excellent video... I thoroughly enjoy your sense of calm determination blended with top notch skills and experience. I am a rage mess manic ass when things dont work as intended... . But knowing is the first step in fixing it right... Awesome as always.

I have the Eastwood "elite" combo shrinker/stretcher and it works pretty well. I was always afraid of those ones. I may try those stipple jaws in mine! I've always wanted to find a set, so thanks for that!

You can clean the aliminium off with a solution of caustic soda ( lye ) and water. It will dissolve.

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!

Great Vid, Love the channel. I think Lazze did a video about lancaster shrinker stretcher upgrades...many moons ago!

I had some of this type of shrinker and sketcher i remember i need shim the stretch up when it was worn and i changed one of the pins to a M10 bolt I had them on home made stand with fot pedal it made them easier to use

Dykem, the only time you’ll catch me wearing gloves 😂 Great video.

interesting analysis of the problem. I would be tempted to shim the bottom to move everything up and get the action more into the first part of the handle stroke.

Yesterday afternoon, I was thinking, “Time for a TSG video.” And voila!

Thanks again, I've also been looking at these to buy. We'd all love the best brands but the cost is far too high for Jo average. Leverage in these is simple but seems backward, high ratio at the start and gets less with travel just when you'd want more ? You concentrated on getting more pressure for a result. Can you comment on the jaw sideways squeeze travel while trying to shrink, new jaws vs. old jaws ? Did the original jaws not work because there was not enough pressure to make that sideways squeeze travel or were they not gripping the work sufficiently ? Hope you understand what I'm asking ?

Thank you

Too bad the factory doesn’t have a quality control dept, nice detective work

I always wondered about how these worked. Thank you for what you showed. I know it's harden but could you drill out the pivot hole then insert with a friction fit, an offset bushing in the pivot bar or even the case? My back ground is metrology and in air craft fixtures we would use bushings that could be replaced or changed to put in or or take out offsets. Something to think about if you want to ever improve it but if it is it working to your satisfaction leave it alone.

What did i do to myself , i have made more work for myself buying a tool that definitely needs improvement . all's i wanted to shorten my work load and avoid buying a complete panel.🥵. Your excellent explanation is appreciated.

I have a dumb question. Could you shim between the body and the lowest die guide to get more pressure?

Great vid....thanks...

A file cleaner or wire wheel on a grinder really does the trick for cleaning i cut mine down and welded cross hatch file blades on the shrinker ones u have the same problem with steel sometimes I will use a tucking fork and shrink by hand abit if im shrinking heaps saves putting in the really deep marks

Great video. I’m going to get a set and run through your process. I’m just learning so I bet they will work great for my purposes.

Thank You!

If you quench the welds they'll be harder. You can also shim it with some SS to take the slack out.

While not likely a good solution, could you machine an offset shaft to shift the arms into a more accurate position if you had a lathe or hobby mill?

Thanks!

The math nerd in me said “yeah write that equation out”

These Lancaster style shrinkers never work if you insert the flange to full depth as it appeared you did when you first tried it, the general advise I've seen - and it works for me - is to insert the flange 1/2 to 3/4 depth.

You can just screw plate on the side of drive side (where handle is) to pick up slack, it should work

Another good video. They seem to work, you say. For the money what more do you need? The fun is in the messing around not the solutions. You cannot make a silk purse out of a sows ear. But you can try

Although I do appreciate your hard work / efforts with these videos, I do have one burning question: Was the car ever finished? If so, can you post pictures somewhere? If not, do you have a timeline for that?

Hello! Your methods of tuning the jaws and the tool bodies are really great. And I guess that the shrinker jaws may even work if propperly applied. When bending angles you definitely need to stay somewhat away from the bend. Otherwise you would try to shrink the perpendicular part of the sheet as well. It will somehow work, but quite ineffective and with so much force needed, that will even destroy good jaws. With stretching you don't have this problem that much, but it also works better when stretching more on the outer edge. Your consideration regarding the contact points of the levers and the forces resulting on the jaws are not correct. It is correct that the effective levering and therefore force amplification is changing as the lever is pushed down. But you also have to consider the direction of the force transmitted from the first lever to the second one. As long as the force is not perpendicular to the second lever, a certain part of that will go straight into the pivot bolt of the second lever and another part is going to to turn the lever and therefore apply force to the jaws. (some vector math but this can also be shown by drawing some straight lines on paper) But that's all theory anyway. I would recommend trying to use both shrinker and stretcher gradually from the outer edge towards the bend. In case the shrinker does not work as it should (shrinking will always be harder as stretching because the material gets thicker and thicker material is harder to shrink - so to make it easier, make more small steps going sideways instead trying to push harder at one point ) just try to change the jaws between the bodies.

How much were the new dies? Thanks for the good video. My philosophy on HF tools is: Unless I can eventually use it as a doorstop or hammer, I don’t buy it. In this case, you’re ok. These are heavy enough to be used as a doorstop😇

I like the foot operated Shrinker/Stretcher better then the hand operated. They got dee throats and they are much more $ . I like the J&S and the Baliegh , I don’t know where they’re made .

Did you ever consider moving the shrinking jaws over into the stretcher body to see if that improved performance? BTW, this video is very timely for me as I've been considering buying this tool but my local Harbor Freight has been out of stock for a while. After watching your video I'll probably go ahead and invest in the original Lancaster version.

See...size matters. Good video

Can't wait for the overseas factories that make these knock-off machines to finally reach the manufacturing precision of the 1790s. (Eli Whitney, interchangeable parts.)

I guess I got lucky as my equivalents worked ok. My beef is the short throat.

I would be tempted to weld a shim onto the handle flat surface rather than try and increase the radius end, but I doubt you would ever really be happy with that tool in your workshop now even if it did work.

tig weld the face ,,, but use a 2mm drill bit as a rod ,,, it will be hard enough to get you by ,,,

Thanks for stating the obvious, that it just isn't worth the time to fix cheap tools. This reinforces all my prejudices against "chinesium"! I try not to buy cheap, but I still end up with regrets on occasion.

Look at lazze metal shaping he have a you tube video about your it

Looks like you’ve got it mostly trued up. If you need things like this cleaned up on the mill or surface grinder, shoot me a PM. I’ll probably buy a set of these sometime and see how good I can make them by squaring up the surfaces. Think I can probably grind a less aggressive grip pattern into the jaws also.

Buy cheap buy twice, I know not everybody can afford to buy quality Tools-I know I can't, but I do buy the best I can afford even if I have to go without some necessities, I'm on my own so I can do this.

Next time you might find someone with a Surface Grinder 😉.

Can’t you just use the stretcher with shrinker parts??

less yappin', more lappin' :P

Generate more force at the tip. Just the tip Just for a second Just to see how it feels.

Best thing I did was make a foot operated set up from a old Total gym excersize machine gives easy force and lets me use both hands on work peace, schinker will never be as good as strecher , your trying to pull metal together and not apart and that's expecting alot to happen.

put a longer handle on it

O wasn't yelling at the screen about the grinding I was screaming about the Prussian blue. Your using 8 times too much! It should be a film the transfer should be translucent.

beli matanya aja ada om🙏🙏😁

You could donate to a certain neighbor.

you are using way too much spotting dye... you will get a false pattern with that much goo on your surfaces

Thanks for an interesting video, i'am just going to build one pneumatic my self. Gunnar. Norway.