That looks like an easy weld. IF you want to fix it without the weld I'd use JB weld epoxy. Then do the band clamp around it. That copper band was a smart choice.

2 yrs ago I used a can of soup cut with tin snips and held with clamps.

This one time, at Band Clamp.......

Thank you for this great video . I bought a 1982 SL380 R107 Mercedes with a complete new exhaust system and some dumb idiot welded the entire sections together, from the tailpipe to where the pipes bolt onto the manifolds . I'm now going have to cut the pipes in sections , so I can work on the undercarriage .I plan on using this style of clamp temporarily, until I decide how I'm going to redo the exhaust. Thank you again.

Those work great for all sorts of exhaust joints. And you can smear on Permatex ultra copper RTV to help it seal. It holds up to the heat. and for slip joints put RTV on the pipe that goes into the larger pipe, will keep water out and stop it rusting.

So the 2 " refers to the type of clamp you need based on the outer diameter of your exhaust?

It would ensure a better seal if you use muffler cement around the cut in the exhaust pipe and then install the pipe seal metal flange.

Permatex has a high temp RTV sealant that does hold up long term for exhaust use.

No need for the torque wrench, tighten it with the impact until it stops turning. The band will stretch tight around the pipes.

Im gonna add a bead of copper rtv on both ends when i do mine's. Nice work btw

I know this is old but I think some of the clamps have special bolts that tighten to the right tension so you won’t crush your pipe .

How these works with motorcycle exhausts if you wanna expand pipes length with these?

Can those things replace a 2" gap between exaust pipes?, Im considering cutting off the flang connectors on my exaust(broken&rusted bolts)..👋😕

Hi. Thanks for sharing. Would this clamp be good to connect 2 separate pieces of pipe together. I don't really want to rip the pipe out to replace. Thanks.

Laceeessss ouuuuut!!!

Nice temp solution..... I would just weld the cut with 308L Stainless mig preferred 0.23 wire quickly can call it a day. Also quick tip if you have sealing problems and you need a butt clamp in place. You can always wrap a thin sheet of fiberglass around it. Fiberglass has a melting point of around 1700F so perfect for exhaust work to fill the little cracks and groves under the clamp up. All you need is a very thin piece of the size of the clamp itself plus a little extra on the length of 3.14 * diameter (2.5) = 7.85 so I cut it 9" long and wrap it around this way it will seal the little 2 joints where the clamp meets the aluminum piece and you have even less exhaust leaking out. We do this on Rally Car's when we are out racing and do have a crack or need to clamp into the exhaust something.

Best modification for that truck, get rid of the converter!

Why do they never start the fucking cars

Who uses them torque wrenches any more them are no no grade 8 bolts that’s China shit the ones from summit are far better quality

too much babble