I did not bleed the brakes. Typically on the truck if I'm not opening the line or replacing the caliper I don't bleed the brakes since theoretically no air should be introduced. I've been there with half way through a video and losing the footage. I'll pin your comment since it has lots of great tips in it!

@@SmackeysGarage OK, I certainly understand the air thing. I'm just over cautious I guess. I've had brakes fail on me once so now I take no chances since that was no fun. Lol

Novices should not open their brake system. This creates a huge safety risk where a mistake could occur. I would encourage all drivers to thoroughly inspect their brake hoses, calipers, reservoirs, and master cylinders often. The warning signs will be evident long before a brake failure occurs. I can say as a technician that brake fluid does absorb moisture in the air, and it does need to be changed periodically. The fluid becomes acidic when it absorbes water. This acidity causes the components to fail prematurely, including the hoses, and calipers. This is over the course of many years, decades even. I would have to adamantly disagree with the concept of bleeding as a course of pad changes. This only introduces the possibility of introducing air unnecessarily. I recommend changing the brake fluid on schedule, and changing all the fluid.

​@code3responsevideos872 I agree with most of what you said. Most purple never keep their cars for "decades" first of all. I agree with water absorption, and she that someone not knowing what they're doing shouldn't attempt it. I agree that every once in a while it should be changed. But if you replace pads and calipers and possibly a hose you must bleed the system. I was tech for many years and the I can still recall my instructors stressing the point of bleeding the brakes. Now maybe that was old school over stuff that's newer, but I've been doing ever since I turned a wrench and have never had an issue with water or trouble down the road.

Thanks! Glad it helped!

Yep. That is about right! 50/50 it goes smooth.

You are welcome!

Thanks it isn't too bad a job. I'd review the manuals online as well.

Same here. The factory brakes don't ever squeak or squeal letting you know to change them. That said, I put 130k on em so it's kinda my fault I gota change 1 rotor as well😅

@@NewEraMusic972 wow, that’s impressive. In my case it was 62K cause been hauling stuff a lot and got kind of hard foot 😂

Thanks! You are exactly right. I did clean off the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove all the oil on the surfaces. Thanks for calling that out!!! Cheers!

I probably have a little bit of time left to sit like that when working on the truck... ha

Yea I really like it. The front control arm had the perfect hole for it.

Thanks! That’s a good tip. I usually leave the old brake pad in and push in the center. That way you get even pressure on them.

In the summer, most of my car work is done in flip flops unless there is hot metal or shrapnel involved! 😂

Thanks for the video.. Are usually Compress the Pistons when it’s still on the vehicle. It’s a lot easier. Just a heads up. Thanks so.

Yea, that definitely happens a lot on these trucks. Happened on my last truck and happening on this truck

Ha. Yea I have dropped things on my feet before. Just so much more comfortable you know! I'd never weld in them though... It was a while back, but I may have done the wheel bearing before this video, but I cannot specifically remember. I've used the rubber mallet method too works well. Glad you enjoyed the video and it was helpful!

Thank you! They seem to be changing things very often! I guess it makes it a lot easier on us and no chance to screw it up lol.

@@SmackeysGarage Yep! Literally the only way to screw up is to install them with the pad facing you.

That’s a good tip

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it helped! Unfortunately it doesn't work that way where I can reupload it with other views. I'll take that feedback towards my other videos I do though. Appreciate the input!

You’re welcome!

Thanks Yellow Hammer!

Thanks! Appreciate you checking it out!

Which rebuild kit? You can still get the slides / bolts from Tasca. www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-mount-retainer-kit-al3z2c150b?c=bD0xNCZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWYtMTUwJnk9MjAxOCZ0PXhsdCZlPTUtMGwtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D

I use the Milwaukee Mid-Torque 1/2" impact P/N 2861. They don't make it anymore but you can still buy it for crazy money. I added the latest version to the description of the video. You can also pick it up locally at a home depot or similar store. I would highly recommend it.

Thanks Mitch!

Thanks! Appreciate it!

I would ask for help from someone who knows what they are doing. It’s good to have someone watching over your shoulder with something as important as brakes.

50,000 miles. Mine went bad due to a stuck slide. They still had some life on them. Thanks!

I added the links to the video description. You can purchase them from Amazon, Rock Auto, or Ford. Cross reference the part number with your truck.

Yes I did.

I see it in the video, thankyou!

Check to see if this fits your truck. JL3Z-2C150-A

JL3Z-2C150-A. Check to make sure it fits your truck

No Problem! I had just under 60k. My front caliper slide was frozen and causing premature wear.

@@SmackeysGarage thanks. I just changed them all at 105k. The front still had 25%, but the back were about gone.

That's good to know. My truck spends a lot of time in stop and go traffic, so that could play a part on why mine only lasted 60k.

If you have an electric parking brake it is in the rear only. Doesn't hurt to have it on while you are doing the fronts.

My truck is 4wd.

I had an issue with my slides rusting in the bracket. It isn’t something you typically have to do.

You could try compressing it in place with a large c clamp if it still looks compressed. It may be getting stuck on the rotor if there is a lip.

@@SmackeysGarage thanks for the advice 👍I will give that a try. It looks like it’s getting stuck on the studs from the brake pad to the piston

200 and up F150s? They did start using larger lug nuts on the vehicles. I believe the 90 F150s use 1/2 while the 18 uses 14mm. That + higher towing capacity on the trucks required it.

Electronic parking brake is rear only.

@@SmackeysGarage thank you l really appreciate

That’s pretty much what I wear when I’m working in the garage… I know… I know

You do easy "vacation" jobs in flip-flops with a drink lol

I had a frozen slide that needed to be replaced. It was easier to take it out and do the work.

Goodyear Duratracs

Thanks!

@tomstrickland5504 no prob. They look nice but as they age they get really loud

I got extremely lucky! Especially living up here in New England.

I look for visible scores, a lip on the rotors, or feel if they are warped. You can also look up the "service limits" on google for your rotors to see what the minimum acceptable thickness is before they need to be replaced.

It's more that they are swollen. They aren't one piece lug nuts.

Yes, you should never use an impact on two piece lugs.

Get an adblocker in your web browser. Haven't you even heard of them? I get no ads now that the tube quit hassling everybody about adblockers.

That's a good tip to add.