As a (soon to be qualified) BMW and Mini technician, these engine mounts on the F56 mini's, now also found on fwd BMW's like the X1 or 1 series, are typical to go bad between 18000 to about 25000 miles and must be replaced if the hydraulic fluid inside them has leaked out. Also if you ever have a problem removing the headlight because of those retaining nuts, spray a little bit of multilube on the bolts, and regularly loosen then tighten the bolt to assist with the overengineered loctite, if the nut does slip, try and pull the casing back, and use an 11 open end spanner to remove it. Hopefully this helps anyone in doubt

My car started with this "crunching" noise like 2 months ago (when i go through rought terrain or flex when coming down the parking spot), i guess i will give it a check now that we are in quarenteene. It might be the Powerflex bushes that might need a litle more lube. If not, it must be this (although it was changed last year when i got my engine replaced due to the crankshaft TSB. Great video as always!

Just noticed my engine mount was leaking fluid Glad i saw this video thanks for sharing

Your videos are seriously awesome I love you.

Excellent video ! Immediately subbed ! I have a 2019 Cooper S here in UK.

This video is missing TONS of info for the home DIY-er trying to do this themselves, dont be fooled (Im right in the thick of it as I type this). She has a ton of power tools and tools in general that Im sure you dont (I have a good amount and still missing important ones for this job). Also, she skips over a bunch of steps such as: 1. Your headlight bolts are likely seized into their nuts (very common and no amount of PB blaster worked) and you'll need to remove bumper to access the lower one (to clamp the nut as you unscrew, to keep it from moving). You'll then need to remove even more body parts to access it. 2. Plastic trim right by the engine has (2) 8mm screws going directly the engine mount itself. Unless u have a long reach 8mm wrench or a ratcheting 8mm wrench or some tiny power tools, you'll be going to the auto parts store to get them because these are damn near inaccessible otherwise. 3. One of the 2 larger bolts (the inside one, towards car interior) unscrews directly into very hard plastic which you'll either need to break a piece off or find another way to continue to unscrew it. The primary 3 bolds (smaller ones) holding the engine mount are the only truly easy ones to remove. That said, dealer quoted me $1500 for this on March 2022 and all OEM parts have only run me $350 so far for all 3 months (upper, lower, trans). That leaves plenty of money for new tools! But just be aware, this is a bigger job than it appears if you dont already have all the right tools.

Thanks for saving me $1360 that he dealers wanted to get me for, not shot, a few scraped knuckles and some extra screws later, my motor mount is 100 again. Thanks again!!

1AZ Engine mount to cylinder head - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M10 10.9 - Replace screws - Jointing torque 40 Nm Angle of rotation 90 ° 2AZ Engine mount to side member - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm 3AZ Engine mounting bracket to cylinder head - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M10 8.8 - 41 Nm 4AZ Holder with rubber mount to oil sump - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm 5AZ Holder with rubber mount to front axle support - F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 - M12 10.9 - 100 Nm

Did you not have to support the engine and what’s the torque about to swap mine

How do I know if the upper or lower is the issue, and should I change both?

Car maintenance and amazing nails. Perfect! 😁

What size torque bolts are on the mount and do you need a 1/4 inch or 1/2 impact wrench ?

Love your roll cage

I got lucky. My engine mount just snapped on top and this is excellent thanks for posting

Does anyone know if the mount bolts are torque to yield?

You said the AC lines were easy to wiggle around, I have to replace my high pressure line because we think there's a leak and that's why it won't hold freon - is it a difficult job? I can't find any videos on it. I have an F57 S.

Great video - what spot (underneath) did You use to "jack the motor up"? Thanks in advance

Thanks for the video. I just ordered a replacement mount for ours. Hopefully a job for this weekend.

Very informative video thank you. I discovered my engine mount completely broken a while ago. If I replace mine like yours, will the other mounts need to be replaced? Older parts vs new part so I’m not sure on what to do lol. Dilemma...

Can anyone explain how to diagnose this problem when the mount is NOT completely broken like this? I have a noise that seems to be suspension but this sounds like it could be it too. When I hit a bump, instead of a single 'thump' I get "thump, thump, thump". I also get a bank every once in a while if I pop the clutch too hard. (this is why I suspect this may really be the issue)

Wow amazing video, JULIETTE you are amazing... I’ve been looking for this like months... in here (Mexico) you must pay to the service dealership like 15,000 Mexican peso... this is something like 800 usd... thanks for the saving you did to me 🙌🙌🙌

Do they make a front brace like your red one for a 2018 jcw chilli red?

Love this girl ❤️ she's awesome 👍

What was the improved/stronger mount you found? I didn't see a link or part number referenced in your post or comments.

hello there , can you tell me where you bought the ENG Mount, thanks!!

Can you please make a video for F56 transmission mount replacement?? I could NOT figure that one out.

Hi, I have the same problem, I have to remove the headlight and fender for this process and I have another issue, the dealer says I have oil leak around the valve cover and says I have to upgrade the valve cover with a new one, I think is only the valve cover gasket, please let me know

I think my mini has the same mount broken but I’m not sure. How can you diagnose a broken mount?

dealer quoted me $1400 (parts plus 5 hrs of labor) , you did it in about 2 hrs , telling me that i could save a ton of money to just do it my self

Is it connected to the upper engine head not the lower engine body?

Great video. Can you provide a part number for this?

Great video ! (Αny link for the front red sway bar ? )

Is there only 1 upper mount here, or 1 on each side?

Hello JULIETTE you are very good compliment😘😘😘

Okay so.... BY FAR the biggest pain in the ass was the GEEEEEEEENIUS level engineering on the headlight bolts. It's almost as if the welded on nuts literally TWO INCHES on the same bracket was too convenient to do on the headlights so they had to stack a 10 layer BS contraption where the end that holds the nut just straight up fails for some unknown reason and it starts to twist as you unscrew it. Had to hammer out the freaking thing at the end and then hold the nut with a spanner.

I hope this doesn't sound sexist but I'm a man and I can't even do what she's doing so hats off to her. Got the same problem so after the Mechanics I go lol

I hope this will be the same as my f60

Do u have the torque specs?

I test drove a '15 Mini S two days ago with 53,,000 miles on it. I loved it and was going to buy it later this week. However, after reading and watching this and reading about lots of other people having the same problem on various forums....I've decided not to buy this gorgeous car and probably not any Generation 3 Mini at all. I'm used to driving Toyotas, Hondas and Mazdas....all cars that don't have continual problems and expensive parts that break every five years due to poor design and materials. I mean come on...BMW is well aware of this problem and hasn't done any are-desingn of this part of the quality of the rubber that cracks and lets all the fluid drain out. If it were a $30 part that would be one thing. But it's a fairly expensive part with many dealers charging over $1,000 to replace and BMW just expects their customers to eat it? This really shows a lack of respect for their customers and indicates that they are really only concerned about the bottom line. I love the car....but don't care to driving a ticking time bomb that has to have an expensive repair job every five years. And who knows what other mechanical and/or electrical issues will arise. Crap...I was really looking forward to driving one of these...but guess I'll go buy another Mazda 3 instead. But Juliette...thanks for the great videos, I've enjoyed them and your great personality.

MINI quoted me $1200 today and I don't even have any problems with my motor mount. I think they were just trying to make some money.

thank you for the video you are awesome , if anyone wants pictures and a diagram how to do this and more go to www.newtis.info and click on bmw technical information then scroll down to mini f56 and you will see all the repair manuals , wire diagrams and electronic components , i hope this helps !!! is always fun to watch your videos juliette

My 2015 Passenger side motor mount went bad and passenger side control arms went bad just from normal driving and under 70k miles.

Torque specs? Or do we not care?

Hehe whoops

If this took you 2 hours , why does my dealer charge me 1800 to replace lol

5:45 an arm in the foreground never help 😂😂 Consider mentioning the torque specs for all the bolts that you remove / put back in… THEN the vid would be really helpful !!