Lol. I don’t style the customer’s car, I just get them to run!

@@tecmotiondyno Mistake number two is painting the mirrors a color other than SEM-39143 Trim Black 🤣 Wish I could afford to pay someone else to work on my stuff!

😂

Or those absolutely horrid tail lights that look like they belong on an import.... y'all know the ones i'm talking about!! Every last one should be bought up & crushed then burned so they can't ever be installed on a Fox!

@@kevin_nagle the euro tail lights belong in the trash

Thanks for watching!

Another mistake I probably should have mentioned is that some aftermarket Ford balancers have two or three sets of marks on them because there are three separate places that Ford installed timing pointers on Windsor style engines over the years, and guys accidentally time the car on the WRONG set of marks. You have to be sure which marks correspond to your pointer!

In a world of infotainment, I try to be more info and less tainment. Thanks for watching!

Glad to be of help. Thanks for watching!

You can usually recover from it, but I always cringe when I see it. One way or another, plugs that are made for E7’s never work right in aluminum aftermarket heads. There is a whole video on spark plugs on this channel too if you want more information.

It’s awesome to run into an original owner! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching! I’m glad it’s helping you out.

Thanks for watching!

The one in this video is a customer car, but I have a stock 93 hatch on top of my wild 90 coupe and an 88 hatch project car. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your supportive feedback! The things in this video are literally all every day problems that show up on cars that are billed as “ready for a dyno tune”, and bad timing is right at the top of the list. There are lots of Fox Mustangs that are quicker than my coupe these days, though still not many naturally aspirated ones, but 15 years ago when we were running it hard it was almost unheard of, and the only reason most guys in the US never heard of it is that I live in Alberta and the distance between Tecmotion and say Englishtown NJ is 2400 miles, so we just never crossed paths!

Glad to be of help. Thanks for watching!

Glad you enjoy it!

Probably NGK TR55. Those heads have a tapered seat.

Thanks for your feedback and thanks for watching!

Happy new year to you too, and thanks for watching!

Thanks. There are lots more things that can be wrong, but I catch these ones all the time!

There are so many things that can be wrong with these cars that it is hard to know where to stop. The ones in this video are common on cars that show up supposedly ready for Dyno. Look for a follow up video with some more things that you should look for ...

@@tecmotiondyno great I love how active you are with the channel. Just saw some drag videos from 10+ years. Im loving my car. Far from factory but who cares lol

I’ve had this channel practically since the beginning of KZfaq. I used to use it mainly to post racing videos so there is some great stuff there if you look through my back catalog. The technical videos are more intrusive and harder to edit into something coherent, but they are generally more popular and I think they are useful in an era where people turn to KZfaq for how-to advice. I am trying to release new content every Sunday morning right now. Thanks for your positive feedback!

It can happen for sure. There is a video out there with a LOT of KZfaq views that concerns installing heads on one of these engines and the entire procedure that is shown is wrong wrong wrong, so I see that as a source of quite a few common head install problems too.

Glad to help!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Terminator X and Megasquirt are both good ways to go, and it is quite true that Foxbodies are typically FULL of wiring problems because the harnesses have been so cut up over the years.

Completely fair. I used -10 AN feed on my 9 second Foxbody with a -8 AN return. Usually by the time I feel like I need new lines, I go with custom AN lines. I even have a video on this channel about making up custom fuel lines if any of you guys need help with it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a7x4itaIxL-5e2g.html

@@tecmotiondyno I use the same on my 1300hp turbo car... 10.0 GPM brushless Aeromotive pump & 160# Holley injectors. Car has been 7.70 @ 178 mph. Im liking your videos so far!

Thanks! I appreciate your feedback. I've raced and built and Dynoed a lot of Mustangs so it seemed like a good idea to share some of my experiences with others. I'm guessing a guy who is running 7.70 in a Foxbody is just watching for entertainment, but I appreciate your comments which I think should be helpful to others as well.

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching.

All the things in video are everyday things in cars that show up for dyno. I have a whole video just released that focuses on the damper and replacing it, and I am working on another video of more serious things that are often broken on these cars, one of which is the harmonic balancer. So, I totally agree with you!

@@tecmotiondyno thanks !

Thanks for watching!

Virtually every time I see this it is because the timing is retarded. Set it with a light. If it still does it, confirm that your balancer is not spun which would give you a bad setup. Also watch for balancers with multiple sets of timing marks and make sure you are timing it on the right side of marks.

I just did a similar car with GT40P heads, Explorer intake, 1.7 rockers, shorties and off-road exhaust. It was about 35-40% over stock depending on exactly where it would have tested stock. It used 30# injectors and a 30# calibrated MAF plus a 255 fuel pump. It was definitely beyond what could safely be run with 19# injectors at my 3500 ft elevation, and real fuel demand at sea level would typically be about 14% more again. Whatever the Facebook pundits say, you need injectors and a fuel pump upgrade for your changes. 24# probably work, but I always suggest you go bigger than you truly need to give you a little headroom for the next round of mods, especially if you are going to tune it.

@@tecmotiondyno Thank you sir for your advice, I will first try the bigger pump. The bigger injectors are out of my budget for now, I always heard that 19lb injectors would be fine up to 300hp, not so? Would the NGK TR5 be ok for this combo?

I think I have that in another video. Thanks for watching!

Yeah and just what throw away my supercharger and giant fuel system and then make way less power. Nah I’m good

The car in this video has a megasquirt engine management system and deletes EGR. There is a block off plate in place of the valve.

Honestly, I think the convertibles and the automatics are starting to come into their own in the Foxbody world as you enter an era of nostalgia cruising and older guys owning the cars. Thanks for watching!

There are a ton of things that can be wrong. My current project "The Fridge", which is a garage find 93 GT felt really gutless, and was kind of hard starting. When I got it on the dyno it was clearly lean and way off in terms of power, so I put a fuel pressure gauge on it and it was idling around 25 psi. This turned out to be because the feeder line inside the tank was cracked and fuel was bleeding back into the tank after it had gone through the pump. Sometimes a break up like you are getting is a bad coil, bad TFI module, bad or wrong plugs, bad tuning, or any of a bunch of other issues. Check the fuel pressure for starters. If it has a factory coil, a spec replacement with something like an MSD Blaster is inexpensive and probably a good idea anyway. Check for all the stuff in this video, and here's another one that might give you some ideas: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i56ldaiSppabd40.html Thanks for watching!

@@tecmotiondyno i was NOT expecting such a quick response.. i really appreciate your input and the link to the correct video ! cheers !

Most of the time I would say that a 255 with upgraded wiring would cover that. I’m not a fan of pump boosters, but that will help with your deliverability and pump boosters with mechanical regulators generally don’t produce the pressure spikes that you get with returnless systems. I use a 340 in tank pump pretty commonly on applications like this too.

Yes, that alternator is barely enough for the stock car!

@@tecmotiondyno I'd say it's inadequate even for that.

I’m kind of with you on that, though if you have a bone stock car and everything is in good condition it usually just works.

If you keep the stock regulator you don’t need a gauge because it is preset, and there is nothing wrong with that kind of combo as long as the regulator works and your power level is compatible with stock fuel rails. If in doubt you can check the pressure with a mechanics gauge on the schrader valve. This particular car uses a Megasquirt 2 PNP which plugs right into the stock harness in place of the factory PCM and is a good alternative to a MAF swap on a speed density Foxbody.

@@tecmotiondyno Hmm didn't know that! I'm in process of changing heads and stepped up to blue top 24lb injectors so I ordered a Kirban adj FPR and inline shrader valve gauge. It's basically the same setup I have on a Turbo Buick and it really helped for driveway tuning and monitoring. Both are factory computers. So I thought whats good for the Goose...

Nothing wrong with that. Set your fuel pressure with the vacuum off to about 43 psi for a stock type setup. You will need to use a chip or at least a 24# calibrated MAF to make those injectors work right though.

@@tecmotiondyno I was wondering what the psi setting was, it's the same as a Buick...thanks! I do have a new 24lb calibrated MAF to go in.

Good advice

Good tip.

I’d be surprised if you had any trouble with that. Orient it so that the sensor head won’t get condensation on it. Guys run long tubes with headers in the collector all the time with minimal or no problems.

Generally, I have liked the Sniper, and usually the problems you get with it can be solved. I have a 67 Coupe with a 347 in the shop right now that uses it, and I have had a few unusual issues that I have managed to solve so I am thinking of doing a little video on some of the gotchas that you might run into with that system. Compared to other budget throttle body injection systems, I much prefer sniper because its learn mode is better than most, and most importantly, if it doesn't work right, you CAN do a comprehensive program on it with a laptop and usually get it to work fine. With some of the other "handheld only" type systems, when they don't work right, your only real choice is to pull them out and start over.

@@tecmotiondyno Thanks for the reply. Were the issues front mount distributor - EMI interference?

@@Turbo4Joe363 there can be a lot of issues and the proximity of the distributor (and coil on the early cars) gets blamed a lot. If any of the key wiring is run in close proximity to other wiring that is noisy, especially ignition wiring, you will have problems. If you tap the tps wiring for an automatic transmission controller or fuel pump controller or whatever, you can introduce noise that interferes with closed loop operation. If you get a poor o2 sensor install it can cause problems. If you don’t pay attention to the fuel plumbing it can cause issues. There’s really a whole video worth of stuff to consider, so I have put that on my list for a future video on this channel.

@@tecmotiondyno Looking forward to that video! You mentioned another concern that I have with my Sniper Stealth install... O2 sensor problems. I have ARH headers with slip-on collectors and O2 bungs welded into each collector (2 o'clock position on the collector). Even though the slip on collectors fit very snugly and have 2 bolt together tabs, I'm worried about air/oxygen leaking into the collectors and screwing up the O2 sensor's reading. I won't be installing the Sniper system until July-August when my 363 build is finished.

It's probably not that big of a deal. I don't like the clamp on O2 bung that Holley sends out, but they do it so they can claim there is no welding required. In most cases a weld on bung will work better. I have used slip collectors in lots of EFI applications and have never had a serious problem with them with respect to the O2 sensors.

NGK TR5 should be a good choice. I'd gap them .045". You might like this video too: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qLqAa5B9qtqml2Q.htmlsi=vARq1LgmsLWBoWcA

Heads cam and intake by themselves wouldn’t necessitate it, but the supporting parts often do. Big fuel pumps, more powerful ignitions, electric fans, stereos, and anything else that increases the electrical load will require an alternator upgrade. A real problem with the electrical system on these cars is that the factory alternator is really barely enough to run the stock car, so when you start adding anything electrical you need to upgrade it. A weak electrical system can generate all kinds of problems that are hard to put your finger on. I have a video on here regarding the 3G upgrade which goes into a little more detail too.

There’s nothing wrong with them. Some of the Lincoln guys would sooner walk through fire than use a non-Ford part on their cars, but i personally prefer and always use NGK on pushrod Ford motors. A standard inexpensive copper core plug is the best option for most of these Ford performance applications if you ask me. If you use the Motorcraft plugs that are made for the heads you have, or Autolite for that matter, it will run fine.

Yep, l always found these cars like the regular copper plugs.

NGK TR55 series plugs should work for those heads.

@@tecmotiondyno thanks

I’m not sure whether the RPM II or the Systemax came out first, but Holley only really ever had one design and Edelbrock had several when the EFI pushrod 302 was contemporary. The Pro Products Typhoon is a famous direct copy of the original Edelbrock Performer RPM EFI manifold.

It needs a block ground. The normal configuration is to attach the fuel injector harness ground and the braided firewall ground to the back of the driver’s side head with the same bolt.

@@tecmotiondyno thank you for your quick reply 💪🏼

@@mike4fo can you attach it to the back of a aluminum head and still get a good ground?

It happens A LOT! Even my garage find 93 project had two wrong plugs in it!

Calgary, Alberta.

It used to be common knowledge. More of them will know if they watch this channel.

Yeah, I’m not a fan of that either, though I can understand some of the reasons behind it, and the GM LS series are good engines. I never had to resort to the General to show guys my taillights on the drag strip either.

You are right, they are technically fox platform cars as are many others including the Lincoln Mark VII, but they are widely colloquially known as Foxbodys just like facial tissues are widely known as Kleenex even if they aren’t made by Kimberly-Clark.

I have all of that. Contact information is all on the web site at www.tecmotion.ca. Phone or one of the messenger services is best.

Well, these are problems that show up on cars that come to the shop for dyno every day, so I’d call them very common mistakes. In fact, almost NO Foxbody Mustang ever shows up for a dyno at Tecmotion that doesn’t have SOME physical problem like these.