Yeah, I lent a saw to a friend and he managed to ruin the entire clutch sprocket and bend the crankshaft by running the chain backwards and god knows how he got it wrapped up around the crank. But long story short he said "there is a wee problem with your chainsaw" I said "No no, your chainsaw appears to be ruined but the one your bringing me back is like brand new" What do ya know, saw came back so brand new it was in the box!

When it comes to consumer products, a chainsaw is the most dangerous and misunderstood device available to the general public. Unfortunately, the average consumer gets their first lesson in how to use one when a major storm blows thru. They either can't afford the price and/or the wait for a professional tree service or quite possibly (Depending on the size of the storm) can't find any to do the work. Some are hit by the "Good idea" fairy and she whispers her famous quote in their ear "You can save LOTS of money and time if you do it yourself! Besides, how hard can it be?" When this happens, they drive to the local big box store, buy the cheapest saw available and then get to work. Most will not read the instructions, pay no attention to the directions about proper maintenance if they do, dump gasoline in the tank and start to yank on the pull starter. About 50% of warranty returns that happen within the first 30 days of purchase are saws that "Just won't start". Well, If you don't follow directions, they are right, IT WON'T! The other 48% is divided up between idiots that 1-use straight gas without two stroke oil and seize up the piston or 2-use drain oil or none at all for the chain and burn it and the bar up locking the clutch or 3- cut into dirt and rocks within 30 seconds of first use and/or install the chain backwards then claim the chain(s) it came with is junk and doesn't cut. Less than 2% are actual product defects. Even doing simple things like reading the directions, adjusting the chain tension or cleaning the air filter take to much time and people these days are just to busy for that stupid stuff! The ignorance of some people is great job security for the local hospital emergency room and lawyers too. If the saw they just bought removes part of their leg, it couldn't possibly be their fault right? It has to be a faulty product? I bang my head off of the wall whenever I see a video like this and feel very sorry for any professional that repair saws for a living. I sometimes think that owning and running a chainsaw should require a license. IMHO it is just as dangerous when driving a car and you need one for that? Anyone with some common sense can probably use a chainsaw but its quite obvious to me that some people do NOT have it or apply it if they do?! NEWS FLASH: Chainsaws and their operation along with cutting down trees is dangerous. If you are not sure about using one, hire a professional or get help from someone who does understand how they work. This will help you keep all of your fingers and toes and both of your legs a little longer. Rumor has it your quality of life is much higher with them all intact?

Thanks for this video, it's sure gonna help me fix my parents chainsaw. They are definitely in that group of people that got frustrated and gave up after replacing the chain which led to similar issues.

First: Buy 3 chains and one new drive sprocket. Change between the 3 chains when you sharpen them from time to time untill all 3 chains are worn. Then buy 3 new chains and change the drive sprocket. Than the cirkle begins all over again. Second: Turn the bar upsitedown with every chain swap and clean the oil ports at the end of the bar. And remove the bur on the chain bar edge everytime you change the chain. Third: When you have a sprocket with a bearing in the tip of the bar, there will be litle holes . Squirt grease in these holes everytime you fill up the gas tank. You can buy a greaser espacaly designt vor that task. fourth: When you fill up your cainsaw, allways fill up the oil first. That way you never forgett to fill up the chainoil. fifth: Never let your chainsaw unused for more than a half jear. Because the organik chain oil will turn into rasion and will clock up the oilpump and hoses. To clean this, is a royal pain in the rear. And that is how you maintain your chainsaw. I learnd this from my father who learnd logger and worked for years in that trade. And if somone would swap my chain, my property, with some other, I would freak out. Becaus I purcase expensive quality cains that are worn in and match with my sprocket. How could somone even get the idear to swap chains, that are your property with the property of somone else. It's like bringing your Car into the stealership and they swap just the tires with other tires from another customer who had cheap chinese tires. Just unbelevable.

‘I’m not gonna blame the person who swapped out wrong size chain’… Yet, it is 100% their fault!

A sharp chain makes life a lot easier. I've bought chains when I should've figured out how to sharpen my chains properly. Between this video and the sprocket replacement one, I SHOULD be able to fix my issue. It IS pretty worn, but I think I'll count the number of links first.

Classic "know it all" dood tip; torque is higher closer to the dogs (spikes at the base of the blade) instinct is to use a sawing motion to cut, but on a chainsaw it's not necessary as the efficiency of the tool is closer to the motor on the blade. Old chains = blades like you mentioned. And trying to cut through knots will always wear out the chain faster. Cutting downed branches depending on the weight tension usually cut better bottom of the branch up (thicker than two wrists depending on the species you'll probably what a small facecut) and perpendicular. Usually new chain buys for our crew are when they get too stretched out. The labor/time sharpening with a hand tool could not be worth it in the field. Usually for larger projects, we each get a few chains when we go out, the have to sharpen them if not managed properly with time. Just picked up a pneumatic sharpener, have yet to use, hopefully with reduce time spent. I know we'd all rather have a proper break than just sitting sharpening each tooth. Initially was thinking you'd have a bent blade, till you mentioned the chain was on backwards; shark fins go towards their prey. X) Thanks for the vid.

I would count the links in each chain. If the links are the same size, I would remove any extra links if you want to fix it on the cheap. Probably a better fix would be to replace the chain or chain and bar together. If it was a shop that sharpened the chain, I would take it back to them and let them know that the chain that they put back on the saw has more links than the one it came in with.

Awesome fix as always😍

yeah, for 5 years had my husqvarna 460 rancher (not cheap), yet recently my chain keeps losening when not even cutting wood. Replaced the sprocket and spindle bearing (even though I didn't need to) then I saw my clutch kept coming lose, but not completely, when it is supposed to tighten during operation and chain break. went through 2 chains each costing 65 bucks, had 2 links installed for 32 bucks (too pricy I reckon, only had just found out about chain breakers and pressers/joiners.) If the chain is operating in an uneven direction, it wears down the rivots in the drive links and eventually lengthens the chain overall, just make sure the sprocket is good, bar is normal, and cut straight.

I did throw a chain on my chainsaw but couldn't re use the chain as it took too much damage. Replaced the chain and it worked fine.

You missing the clip that holds the adjustment screw

I like how after you fixes it you demonstrated after I would like if you did this in your newer videos please

^_^ Thanks for sharing. I sure do enjoy watching you work. Looks like someone got all bent out of shape with this saw.

Something not mentioned here. I have several saws. When we first got a 36" bar for the Stihl 390 we could not keep the chain from jumping off. New bars, new plastic guides in sprocket cover, new chains, no help. I noticed that some pro models had a "closed" sprocket (rims on both sides of the teeth to hold chain entered on sprocket). Dealer assured me that would make no difference. I replaced the stock open sprocket with a closed one anyway and MAGIC! Stopped throwing chains. There's a reason the pro saws have closed sprockets. It was never a problem with shorter bars, but if you need the longer bar (we were cutting huge stumps) just get a closed sprocket.

was working on my fathers ancient homelite xl10 automatic and it was a bear trying to find a 42 tooth 10 inch chain for it. found one in the UK for a great price.

Always good videos sr !!!!!

I.d look up or in the owners manual online if available or simply look at the clutch cover and see what the bar size to the chain size recommendations are etc

My chain sprocket was worn. It had 1/8" marks in it. My chain wouldn't stay on 2 minutes. I replaced the sprocket and bingo problem solved. I couldn't find any info on this relationship so i wanted to put this info out there. This fixed a big problem. I was about to buy a new saw when this $10 fix solved the problem.

I believe it was either that the chain was stretch,ed past it,s limit,s or the chain had one or more drive links making it to long I have been there did that

I'm really loving your videos, I've had a proper binge over the last few days. Can I ask, what do you think would be the most likely reason for a chainsaw to keep losing tension on the chain? It's a McCulloch chainsaw and over than constantly having to tighten the bar it's a nice saw. Any advise you can offer would be massively appreciated.

I came close to buying another saw but discovered the tension nut was not working properly so fixed that and chain stayed tight. Still frustrating for sure.

Yes to the chain question! I could tell after buying a used Echo saw the chain was worn. I have quite a bit of work to do for my company as tornados have absolutely ripped through my state within then last several months and there’s been lots of cleanup happening. Got an Oregon Advancecut bar and E70 chain combo from lowes on sale for $35. Keeping my old echo bar and chain as a backup and to practice my chain sharpening. Being a firefighter as well, I know first hand a chainsaw can make or absolutely break your day. Anything small engine is absolutely worth at least a decent investment if you’ll be using it somewhat frequently. Absolutely LOVE this chainsaw so far though! (Echo CS-590 that was only used once or twice. Snagged it for $200 under retail!)

I got a question for you about a mini bike hope you can help me with this got a 212cc motor from harbor freight and I don't know what type of clutch I need can you help

Lesson #1: don't let other people work on your equipment

#1 the chain needed lifted /before you tightened the nuts! #2 yup- needs sharpened + needs rakers cut down! Did you see the small /thin wood shaveings.. ? RAKERS !!!!

I get sick of the chain coming off my chainsaw. And when I put the chain back on the saw it just never works right. The chain doesn't even want to turn. I put it right back on the The motor but the chain is frozen. So I am frustrated I hate trying to deal with it.

1. What about the number of drive links: My original Husqvarna chain (the chain that came installed on my new 20” Husqvarna 455 Rancher (56cc engine) chainsaw when I bought it) has 80 drive links. I was sold an Oregon 20” “Powercut” replacement chain with only 72 drive links. I never had the Husqvarna chain come off the bar, but as I had the saw turned sideways (cutting a stump to the lowest height), the Oregon 72 drive link chain came off the bar; I had this happen twice, with 2 of this same type of Oregon chains. Is the lower number of drive links affecting the chain to where it can come off of the bar more easily? Why the difference in number of drive links? 2. Also, when the chains came off the bar, the drive links got “roughed up” a little with jagged areas & small spurs on them; is this chain reparable in this condition? I tried filing the “uneven/ rough areas” of the small “spurs” on the drive links themselves in order for them to fit back into the v slot on the bar, but they still hung up in the bar’s slot & wouldn’t glide smoothly down & thru the bar; I figure they are bent to one side or the other and that the chain is most likely ruined. In your opinion, are these chains ruined when the drive links get mangled, bent, & will not fit, nor move smoothly thru the slot in the chainsaw bar any longer? Thank you for any info that you can provide me; still learning & trying to get all this stuff figured out! Great video too by the way!!

Just cause you asked, yes I have had a claim problem that's so frustrating that I buy a new saw. As a matter of fact I'm having one right now, which is how I arrived at your video

the guy that swapped out the chain, putting the wrong sized one on and reinstalling the adjustment hardware incorrectly is 100% to blame. come on, now.

So something is really wrong with mine it runs great but when I start it up the chain keeps giting lose and fall off idk what to do I don't know if I need to find a new bar or chain

This is one of many reasons why i sharpen my own chainsaw chains. But he should of noticed it had too much slack in the chain when he put it back on the saw.

I have a husq rancher and it's frustrating as hell, I have an extended bar and the correct chain, but tension seems to be a constant issue... and I think I'm doing everything correctly, but I doubt it's the saws fault.

Ok I’m think I’m going to replace the chain. This is my first time using a chain saw. After some use the chain popped off. I reinstalled it but it keeps popping off so I think there’s been some damage and I need to just use a new chain. These things are the horses of hardware. Powerful machine on glass legs. 😂 Do I need to oil this as I use it? Do you have a video on cleaning, maintenance, when to replace the blade etc? Thanks

This guy made too many errors for me to list! He wouldn't repair MY saw!

Do you know why the crankshaft case it's flooded with petrol?🤔

I've got a poulan with the single knob tigjtner. It keeps getting loose and the chain comes off the bar. I have another Wild Thing that's at least 10 yrs old, still runs like a champ. It was a trash pick with a case!

would you file the tips of the chain to make it fit the bar better

My #1 TIP: The most expensive pair of chainsaw chaps, that heavy duty apron your wear over your cloths to give you some protection, is less expensive then the least expensive trip to the emergency room.

What kind of chainsaw do you like I like sthil

I posted a vid of my riding mower that won’t crank I think it’s a starter can you check it out and verify if I’m on the right track

I would fix it. I know it's tempting to buy a new one, but I have this mindset is to fix it even if the parts will cost you half the value of your machine. This kind of thinking makes me take better care of my tools.

This video is off the chain!

I think you did a great job cutting those tree branches

I have same problem My chain keep stretching Hasn't left my workshop ever It's a stihl chain on cheap chainsaw Kept tighting but after some use its loose again Until the point that I had to to drill new hole on plate to keep tightening the chain. Its doing my heading Plate can't shrink Chain shouldn't expend, it's a stihl , even if was some cheap one shouldn't move So if someone has any idea why it's happening and how to stop it, it would be appreciated Thanks

Sorry, at 53 seconds in to it, the chain is on backwards. Think that might have something to do with it ?

Why does my chain cut the sprocket? Is it too tight?

That chainsaw has minor problems however fixing the chain as it is to long you do not simply do as you do a bike chain. First look at the drive sprocket and sword sprocket as they tend to wear out.

This Is The Old Poulan PRO Chainsaw?😐

Stand on the left side of your saw keep your head out of the kickback zonealso lock your left arm and keep it locked do not bend your left arm

Biggest thing. Never ever cut with a loose chain even if it’s only a couple cuts. I cut with a loose chain once and though to myself it’s only 3 cuts why not then the chain popped off and almost took my balls off. Like it’s grazed them. Not to mention it can literally slice in and cut an artery in your leg or anywhere it’s not worth the risk when you can take 1 minute to fix it exspecialy since your gonna have to do it the next time anyway

Chainsaw chains can be quite difficult to sharpen, so I don’t blame the person who swapped it

When you finally started cutting, your chain was way too loose. I could see space between the chain and the guide bar without you even pulling on it.

So what did you do with the other sharp chain? Really does not help if I do not have an old chain. Go buy another chain?

You needed to show how much tension the chain is supposed to have!! :(

Thanks for sharing. I have two problems: 1. The chain throws off every so often. 2. When the chain comes off I have an issue putting it back the right way.

Wow those theets must have been blunt to oblivion. It really was kinda painful to watch.

I bought a new MS 261 Stihl commercial saw because I couldn't find a good mid size saw but not because of a chain. Between it and the 440 Magnum I needed a smaller saw..........which my son-in-law ended up with. It's a tiger and all the power company guys use them. I also did away with the chain tensioner on my old Super 45. Just loosen the cover nuts, pull the bar out to the right chain tension and tighten the nuts while holding up the bar. That was mandatory on the old saws. And take the drags or depth gauges down on your chain with a flat file 3 or 4 licks and it will CUT! Thanks and Blessings!

👍

Hey there. I am getting ready to demolish an old camper. I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a demolition chain for a saw. Something that can cut through nails, aluminum siding, and wood. I could use a saws-all. But I'm looking for something I already have and gas powered. It's parked out in BFE. I suppose I could move it. I don't know. I was hoping to get a manufacturer for a demo chain. Because I can't find one. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I dosen't bother to sharpen my chain. When it gets dull I buy a new 1

I'm the sort of person who would have to fix her up !

If I send it out I mark the bar and put paint on the chain. I got burned once, never again.

no not at all

Why wouldn’t you blame the person that put on the wrong chain and backwards? 🤔

I wonder why so many folks buy a too big barred saw. I have 2 husqvarna"s, 40 cc 15inch and 60 cc 18 inch. Any tree in Spain no problem . You yanks would stick a 24 inch on the 60 cc making it rubbish

I would tell the guy that does the chain to get it right or get into another profession

Dangerous

The most obvious problem I can see, is the saw is a Poulan!!

Can you show your face in one plz