Thankyou for your kind comment and thankyou for watching the video.

Thank you very much and I wish you a happy and healthy 2024 😁

Thankyou, I am glad you found it useful 👍👍👍

Thankyou Sir 👍👍👍

Good point, this video is really about the GSXR750, thanks 👍👍👍.

Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.

Glad to be of help, proper coolant is a must for aluminium motors. Water was fine for the original cast iron motors and copper radiators, but these days with exotic metals water can be corrosive.

I am glad that you found it useful, thanks for watching.

Glad to be of service and thankyou for watching the video.

Not my bike Rob, but it is a nippy little thing. My old bruisers are brutes, but that one is soo quick.

Glad to be of help and I hope you get your cooling problem fixed easily 👍👍👍.

I have this same bike and same issue how did you fix your problem ?

Thanks very much 👍👍👍

Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching 👍👍👍

Good question, assuming you have electrical power in that wire, if the fan does not run, it needs to be replaced. But be careful to check that the lead into the fan is intact as well.

Good to hear.

Yes, you can use the Yamaha Coolant in your Kawasaki, it does the same job for both bikes. If I read your message correctly, you have a 23 year old bike that has done only 7000 miles. That is both good and bad, the mechanicals will be perfect, but the seals maybe a bit hard, so your theory on the seals is probably correct. Years ago I had a car in the shop that had a similar problem, a minor loss of coolant with no diagnostic signs. Owner was not too worried, except it was anoying her to keep looking at the coolant level. I could not find a leak anywhere, which included crack testing the head. I hated doing it, but needs must, and it does work if done properly, I put one of those 'stop leak solutions' in the coolant and the car had no further fluid loss.

@@whitedoggarage thanks for the feedback it's much appreciated, I got the bike from a collector and it's absolutely prestine show room condition , I have got 3 months warranty so hopefully anything wrong happens before then , my only concern is reservoir is going down a bit each ride , my radiator is full when I take to cap off when cool , no bubbles in resivior when running indication gasket failure, I've ruled out water pump as there's a weep hole underneath it as a warning and that's all dry , when I got it the oil cap was a little milky and radiator cap was crusted in the centre with dry coolant along with the slight loss of coolant is my only concern , fingers crossed it's okay because it's a beauty , the place i bought it from and my friends are saying it could be trapped air pockets in coolant . We shall see soon hopefully , thanks again for the great videos 👍🏼👌🏼

@@bccapone837 Good luck. 👍👍👍

I am assuming it started again after you let it cool down. My recollection is that model has stick coils, one small coil per cyclinder, which makes an online diagnosis harder. If it has two coils with each coil having two leads going to the spark plugs, then stopping whilst hot and restarting when cold is likely to be a coil failure. With four indivdual coils, one could fail, but the motor would keep running, just be sick. A temperature of 200 degrees F is not critical enough to shut down the motor, so what else could it be? Other things to check would be wiring and ignitor related. You might find this video useful as well: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qcVmbJx727mXdWw.html I hope some of that helps and good luck with tracking down the problem.

I am glad that you found the video useful and I appreciate your positive comment. The fans motorbikes are pretty small and don't draw much current and a far as I am aware none of the bikes turn them on via a relay. However in cars, the electric fans used are much bigger and are often triggered via a relay.

@@whitedoggarage Thanks for your reply. Many years ago, I installed a Japanese engine in an English car and converted the cooling system to electric. I used a relay with the thermoswitch. I was trying to figure out the problem Itchy Boots had on her latest video with the cooling system of her CRF300R. They disconnected the thermoswitch, so that the fan will run continuously. If the fan fails eventually, it will be a mighty interesting episode ! Thanks and regards. Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.

@@ramishrambarran3998 Interesting, thanks for that. Years ago, European cars imported into Australia were often fitted with air conditioners by the importer, as air conditioning was relatively unknown in their home countries. But living in the north of Australia, our heat often got the better of the cooling system for those cars. The work around was to fit an electric fan to the front of the radiator and connect it via a relay to the circuit that switched on the electromagnetic clutch on the front of the compressor.

@@whitedoggarage Yes. I know about that, The only aftermarket electric fan available was a brand called "Kenlowe" ! We have tropical sun along with high humidity. Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.

@@ramishrambarran3998 Likewise here, although it is winter at the moment, and one of our coldest ones we have had for a while, even the tropics are enjoying 15 to 25 degrees Celcius (~60 to 77 degrees Farenheit) at the moment.

Same as the 750 from memory 80 degrees Celcius or 176 degrees Farenheit.

Not famailiar with that model GSXR, but I would think 104 degrees is a bit more than it should be. Maybe you have a partially blocked radiator, or the fins are all bent over restricting air flow. A temperature of 104 degrees is not a problem to the motor, just more than it should be. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the lesson. This is good stuff. I subscribed

@@Roadscore Thankyou, greatly appreciated, wont always be motorcycle stuff I am afraid, but every few episodes you can get lucky 😁.

Agree, you need to investigate the cooling system. I think you are probably right about the missing or wide open thermostat, assuming of course that the fan is off when you are seeing the 150 degrees F. I would assume that the thermo switch has failed and the previous owner has by passed it with the toggle switch, the cheaper option I guess. You should fix that as well, you want to be watching the traffic and road condition when you ride along, not the temperature gauge.

From your query it sounds like the fuse is blown, but maybe it is the way I read it. Do you have power both sides of the fuse? Blade fuses can be tricky to test in place, sometimes it easier to pull the fuse and test for continuity accross the two blades. If you have power passing through the fuse, but it is not present at the thermo switch end, then check back through the wiring for a break - might be a conector has come apart, or the wire has rubbed through somewhere and has shorted out to the frame, burning the wire out at that point. Hope that helps.

@@whitedoggarage well I was chasing a ghost. The wire that plugs into thermo switch goes to the ECU. That controls when the fan goes on. Apparently on the Kawasaki forum it's pretty normal for the Versys x 300 to run normally high on temperature bar gauge on hot days. I started the bike and actually unplugged the thermo switch and the fan came on. Went out for a ride and everything is working fine. I appreciate your response and advice. Jim Jim

@@jimh2061 Excellent!

Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing that information. Good mileage for your bike, they can last a long time. One of its ancestors, my 1980 GS(X)1100E has close to 240,000 miles on it. It badly needs a rebuild, but still a beast. Take care.

I do not have any personal experience with this model Kawasaki. Asking around I am told they run very hot normally, too hot for some owners who sell and buy something different. Suggestions as to cause seem to revolve around changing the exhaust and air intakes to reduce the load on the motor. That makes me think that you are describing that model's normal behaviour. However, in your case, checking the thermostat may be worthwhile, as well as making sure the radiator fins are clean and the radiator is in good condition. Sorry I could not be more helpful.

I have no experience with the 600, other than knowing they exist. But I have had a quick look online and I believe a replacement water pump can be ordered, and this is one of the links that I found: www.kjthomas.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/1998/gsx-r600/water-pump , but there are a few others. I have no experience with the 600 as I said, but I have read that the water pump in the GXR750 is the same, but can not be certain of that. Most water pump problems are either a failed bearing, a failed seal, a worn impellar or a corrosion hole in the pump wall. If you go to this link: www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/suzuki/1998/gsxr600/water-pump , there is a parts diagram for the water pump and it looks like those parts can be sourced from that supplier. A hole in the pump case can usually be fixed using something like JB Weld Original Cold-Weld or Permatex Permapoxy 4 Minute Multi-Metal Epoxy. Sorry I could not be more helpful, but I hope that gives you a way to either replace or fix the water pump on your bike.

Not familiar with that model, but those temperatures are not out of the ball park. I would prefer a little cooler say 195, but if the fan is kicking in, at least it is working. You do not say what part of your travels those temperatures occur. Hot days in slow traffic would give high readings for example. On a 92 degree day riding on the open road it should be a bit cooler. Are your radiator fins reasonably clean?

I am glad that you found the video helpful, thank you for watching and good luck with your fix 👍👍👍

Good questions. The bubbles are not always there, but if they are, then that is clear diagnosis. There are test kits availalbe which can be used to test the coolant for combustion products if you think there is a leak. Sometimes it can present as an unexplained loss of coolant. It depends on how the head gasket fails as to whether you get oil in the coolant, as it needs a passage between a coolant chamber and an oil way. Loosening head bolts can cause such a leak for example.

@@whitedoggarage To bad your not in Perth ,your logical approach is vacant in most bike mechanics here . Had a warranty fix go back to shop twice, because they refuse to admit it's a head gasket problem..

@@madness5327 That is a shame, warranty fixes are always a problem for dealer mechanics, easy to say "not out problem mate", because if they get it wrong the company won't reimburse the dealer. I did a job on a motor years ago, it was lossing a small amount of coolant, went right through it, no leaks in the combustion chambers, no leaks in the plumbing, no bubbles either. I ended up pulling the head off and testing for cracks in it and the top of the block. No cracks found, put it back together and gave it a dose of liquid leak fix stuff (hate doing that as I have seen that stuff block a few radiators in the past). No coolant loss after that and that truck did another 4 or 5 years without trouble before they sold it - probably about $1000 worth of work to on that motor however, for what I felt was no real fix as I never found the source of the leak.

A collapsed radiator hose could be due to the thermostat not opening properly. But start with the cooling fan, is it working when the motor is hot? If the fan is working, the thermostat is th enext one to look into. If you remove the thermostat and drop it into boiling water you should see it open completely. If it does not, replace it. Hope that helps.

@@whitedoggarage The fan was not coming on. and the hose to the overflow was clogged therefor it could not vent when cooling back down (expansion and contraction of the fluid)

@@samboles8796 Sorting the problem, excellent, hopefully the fan has just popped the fuse.

Good that you tested the other fuses, as that narrows down the options. You don't say what bike you are working on, so I am going to be a bit general in my replay. There will be a group of fuses that share the same power source and this should be from the ignition switch, when the bike is turned on or maybe a relay, which is energised from the ignition switch when the bike is turned on. The other fuses having power, indicates to me that the problem will be in the fuse box and will be either corroded contacts in the fan's fuse slot or a broken terminal below the power side of the fan's fuse slot. Maybe try cleaning the fuse slot first using fine sandpaper and contact cleaner, if I had no joy there, I would try and trace the power input in the fuse box - these are sometimes hard to get into, which may mean you have to replace the fuse box, but I would work on the cleaning angle first. Hope that helps.

You are trying to explain your problem to me in English, rather than your own language, so thank you for that. I am thinking, that you are telling me that the bike starts and runs. But after 1 km the bike is spitting out coolant like the cooling system is blocked. That is usually due to the fan not working and the engine is over heating, pressure builds up and the system vents coolant to bring the pressure down. The answer there is to find out why the fan is not working, by checking the fuse and thermal switch. If that is not the answer you need, please reply in your own language with good detail and I will use Google translate to interpret what you say.

Good point, not too hard to go through with short needle nose pliers and straighten them. Those cooling systems are surprisingly efficient, so I think it tolerates bent fins to a certain extent. Thanks for watching and comeenting on the video. 👍👍👍

It should turn on at about 80 degrees Celcius or 176 degress Farenheit.

@@whitedoggarage thanks ☺️

India and its people are beautiful, much love in return. I think they all make durable engines, but all have had troubled creations in the past. If I had to pick one brand, I would probably say Honda, but only just 😊.

The bike owner got them off eBay, and I know nothing about their source I am sorry. I did have a quick look on eBay and I see this set as an example: www.ebay.com.au/itm/190649985905?epid=660481590&itmmeta=01J24Z2NP0B3Y923G1P8FW49Y4&hash=item2c639feb71:g:vdsAAOSwLjRhBbO2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAJZH4EbFxK8DasSkK0UUQe7KUid6%2BisCTHlYuTrVcnmMkQtt0mo3Am%2BsvFKZ5D%2BqrFz0nXK%2BPB3RNXcQdUNJY%2FWRB5tSrzqyRZ2f8Bkl3qn2qF7TA0lc%2B4LhkAIIvstG0%2B4mmb0FboGThA5es2jRagx2387%2BWEUev5cOYnwKaRLJVEbH9yyj5wDaMO9rSmI0dvbtjYCxBEMvd42IQQDp2miDoMFXLwUjm6koEve2SomYaESvQt%2F%2BwI3Ii3GW81Y7BqiLoRCDhkA9aSqKaYolITOwRkdheQwRa%2BM87eD%2BzGDnQDyH70jtBfUGJTob55BPGHj4TbnSbnq6V2vwPLDsFyQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5Dbip-RZA Hope that helps, Bob

@@whitedoggarage thank you 🙏🏼

@@anthonyaranda8775 no problems

Oh dear, it sounds like you are getting oil in the coolant. You will need to investigate the cause, the video will help here. Oil in the coolant without bubbles in the system, indicates to me you may have split accross from the oil channel to a water channel in the headgasket, or a gasket failure on the coolant pump. Let me know how you go?

@@whitedoggarage haven’t got the time to start pulling it apart at the moment unfortunately. it’s going into my local garage this week hopefully it’s nothing serious I’ll keep ya posted on it.

@@jimmyboimazarti1234 Good luck, hopefully it is just something simple 👍👍