Thank you. I'm glad they're helping. I don't know of a course to recommend unfortunately, but I have an Orca Slicer playlist. www.youtube.com/@fischer3d/playlists There are about 22 videos and counting.

Thanks. Yes, you can fine tune flow rates, speeds, etc.. just keep in mind that rarely will every print be spot on. everything has some tolerance built in. Each part on your machine has some tolerance built in, the filament you use has tolerance built in. All of these can stack up and result in a part that isn't nominal. My advice would be to run through as many of the calibration tests you can for your machine and fine tune the results. But every machine is a little different. It's more about understanding the limits of your machine and understanding what it's capable of. In addition to the tolerance test in Orca, you can print some simple 20x20x20 cubes and measure the results. Inner and outer wall Flow rate & elephant's foot would be a couple of settings you could tweak to dial in those results.

Wgat was your solution?

Thanks for your note. Here's a couple of settings to check. First, under your Process settings go to the Quality tab and scroll to the bottom. See if "Detect Overhangs" is checked. Next, go to the Speed tab and scroll down the Overhang speed section. This is more related to the speed of the extruder, but when an overhang is detect the extruder speed will slow allowing the part cooling fan to be more effective. Finally, at the top of the screen edit the Printer Settings (Click the cog wheel next to "Printer" located directly under the Device menu text. On the Basic Information tab scroll down to Cooling fan. Check the box for Overhangs only and play with the delay settings. If you hover your mouse over each field a small help text pop-up will be displayed. Hope this helps. Good luck.

you'd generally look at this a capability test and not so much as a pass/fail test. it's a test f what tolerance your printer can achieve. You could however tweak flow rate, e-steps, speeds and make sure your nozzle diameter is accurately represented in the slicer.

Unless you're swapping drastically different types of filament often, I would think just the 2 passes would suffice. Or if you changed something hw related on your machine, like new steppers or extruder you might need to rerun it.

My A1 comes in on Wednesday so for sure would have better info then hopefully. Probably my first question would be what's your bed temp? Can you increase your bed temp 5 or 10 degrees to help with that? Also, in the global Process section you can click on the "Other" tab and turn on Outer Brim. That should also help keep them suck to the build plate a little better and get a good reading.

@@fischer3d my bed temp is whatever the default temp is. I’ll definitely try turning it up, I wanted to try making the initial layer height .2 since that seemed to help stick to the bed more but I’m not sure if that’d mess with the calibration results? Will give the brim a shot as well. Looking forward to when you get yours and can try it! :)

What's your first layer flow rate? Maybe try over extruding the first layer a bit more? That can help blend those lines. Maybe an extra 5 or 10%

Sorry for the delay. In your Global settings, don't worry about what's there. When you select Pass 1, Pass 2 the printing is switched to "By Object" and most of your global settings are ignored. Just load Flow Test Pass 1, Print, Adjust Flow Ratio. Load Pass 2, Print, Adjust if needed.

Maybe check that z-hop distance is set to 0. Z-hop will promote stringing no matter how high your retraction setting is.

@@fischer3d Thanks man. I think that was the issue. I also put the Override settings in the filiment tab at 3mm for retraction. Changing both the z-hop to 0 and Normal seems to have fixed the issue. Thanks again your a life saver. I been messing with this thing for 4 days. Now I can go to sleep. LoL

Haha. Glad to hear it!!

Hey there. Thanks for the question. In my experience, achieving a .4 wall thickness is going to be difficult from a .4 nozzle. I know it's counterintuitive, but rarely are .4 nozzles actually .4. Sometimes they are over or undersized. Then you have to deal with the filament expansion once it leaves the nozzle and then the compression/squish on the initial and subsequent layers. All that being said, you can play with the settings under Quality>Line Width. Maybe fool around with the Outer Wall width. If your setting is at .4 now, but your result is .48, maybe try reducing that setting.

Tolerance isn't really a setting you can adjust. It's the result of your machine's capability. Once you run the tolerance test and get a result you can fine tune your settings to potentially achieve a tighter tolerance. Things like flow rate, wall thickness, speed, etc.. will all effect the overall tolerance.

It depends... I'd look at flow rate, print speed, belt tension first to see how much you can dial it in, but keep in mind that every machine, filament, etc.. will have their +- tolerance. If you're running a stock Ender 3, for example a .1ish tolerance is pretty good.

any chance you accidently turned on ironing? Or were the pieces lifting off the bed causing some scraping?

@@fischer3d Thanks for replying. No, ironing is off. It's almost like the printer doesn't go high enough to clear the next layer. The layers were firmly attached to the bed. By peeling, I mean the nozzle was actually pushing the previous layer off the tabs while doing the diagonals.

very strange. If it were me, here's a couple of things I would check... in Orca, after you load Pass 1 or Pass 2 tick the "Objects" Slider in the process area from global and check the layer heights for each object. The flow test layer heights are pretty aggressive at .3 mm. Maybe make sure they didn't get reduced to something like 0.03mm. If print settings all look good then look at mechanical items. Stepper couplers, backlash nuts, etc.. make sure those aren't loose or binding since that could cause missed steps. What type of printer do you have?

@@fischer3d Ender 3 V3 SE. There's not really a profile for the printer yet, so it's been an experiment for sure. I found and uploaded someone else's profile (bopchong on github) for this printer and it is working very well. I appreciate your replies, you definitely got me pointed in the right direction.

I had the same issue. After some investigation of changing settings and reslicing, I noticed that @fischer3d had 7 layers and I only had 5. I eventually noticed that for my Neptune 4 Pro with a 0.4 nozzle if you change either the Layer Height and or Firrst layer height it will reduce the amount of layers by 1 for each. I am using the system preset 0.20mm Standard @Elegoo Neptune4Pro (0.4 nozzle). Hope this help if you haven't already figured it out.

Hello - you don't really do much with the tolerance test. It isn't a calibration type print, but a test print that is an indicator of your printer's capability. Based on the results of your tolerance test you would then make additional tweaks to flow rate, elephant foot compensation, etc. in order to get your printer printing closer to optimal. Here's the snippet from Orca's documentation on that test: "This tolerance test is specifically designed to assess the dimensional accuracy of your printer and filament. The model comprises a base and a hexagon tester. The base contains six hexagon hole, each with a different tolerance: 0.0mm, 0.05mm, 0.1mm, 0.2mm, 0.3mm, and 0.4mm." So, similar to a calibration cube test print, if you're over or under the target dimension you could look to a couple key features (listed above) to tweak and try and get it as close as possible.

They're baked into orca under the calibration menus, but if you want to make copies and play with them I was able to find them under my local directory. C:\Program Files\OrcaSlicer esources\calib

@@fischer3d Is it too late to post them with the video? How can you get them to me or others?

I looked in my location and found some similar files, in folders named FlowRate, PressureAdvance and VolmetricSpeed. Do you have more? I have no idea if mine is OrcaSlicer or based on OrcaSlicer yet.

All of mine are just the defaults loaded with Orca Slicer. Sorry, no others.